Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook

[mynameismud]

No way man.  I like that route, the rat in the crack is way cool.  Plus it has some interesting moves.

David S. was with us that day you lead that upper pitch and Mud dropped a line. I had bailed off at the meadow not wanting to continue the route after leading the first pitch and following the second. animal feces, moss covered mud and cobbles loosely held together, run out, crappy belay with questionable cam placements. I think Uber followed you on the upper pitch??? Not sure. Anyways, I did think you were going to die. You went totally silent for a way too long period.

I agree HBerchel is the absolute worst climb.

[Brad Young]

No way man.  I like that route, the rat in the crack is way cool.  Plus it has some interesting moves.

OK, now I'm totally confused. I thought YOU were the rat in the crack?

[mynameismud]

I suppose that is why it felt so homey.

OK, now I'm totally confused. I thought YOU were the rat in the crack?

[CruxLuv]

So, Cruxluv, you made it pretty clear that Beyond Destiny isn't  among your favorite Pinnacles routes. Would you be willing to share with us the back-story?

Oh sorry...that was me just drunk posting again.

But truly that rock does not want to be touched.  Or maybe it does...kinda like peeling off a scab. 

A seasoned climber said it had no business being in the book.  (no, I don't kiss and tell)

Although I do have to say that the anchor was one of the most spectacular spots I've been so far.  I would have just preferred more secure everything to get there.

But...I'm just a gym climber so what do I know?   

[Brad Young]

Oh sorry...that was me just drunk posting again.

But truly that rock does not want to be touched.  Or maybe it does...kinda like peeling off a scab. 

A seasoned climber said it had no business being in the book.  (no, I don't kiss and tell)

Although I do have to say that the anchor was one of the most spectacular spots I've been so far.  I would have just preferred more secure everything to get there.

But...I'm just a gym climber so what do I know?   

In so many ways you sound like an up-and-coming mistress of mud. We need more like you.

[mynameismud]

Well said.

[cobbledik]

If you have an opinion based upon experience then you have a right to share it... Nay! An obligation!

Think of it as a mini tr

[CruxLuv]

In so many ways you sound like an up-and-coming mistress of mud.

Until then, I'll just go with Queen of Crud.   

[mynameismud]

QOC it is!

Until then, I'll just go with Queen of Crud.   

[k-man]

Although the “regular” route is OK, this original finish is very chossy and should probably only be done by the most fanatic fans of obscure Pinnacles routes.

Now *that* is a polite way of putting a positive spin on something that sounds like unadulterated kitty litter.

[CruxLuv]

QOC it is!

Woo hoo!  It's taken me this long to see my official designation.  Yes...slow as molasses... 

Thanks   

[JC w KC redux]

This is an unofficial correction to the topo for Costanoan - we did it yesterday.
A 60m rope will allow you to rap each pitch with the exception of p1. You can solve that by rapping down to the 1st bolt at a good stance and then pull and thread about 15 feet of your rope for a short rap to the ground from there.
I know there is a 4th class "walk off" but we wanted the practice rapping down a multi-pitch esp with the semi-hanging anchor setup at the top of p2.
I found the line on pitch1 to have a very "unnatural" feeling/poor choice of line. I kept getting to great stances where you'd expect a bolt, only to find the bolt several feet up on a much less desirable stance - it just didn't make sense!
It leads me to believe the bolts were placed on rappel even though the FA info doesn't list it that way.
For newbie leaders, long runners could reduce rope drag on p1 since you're gonna deck regardless - if you miss bolt 2.

[mungeclimber]

Didn't costanoan go in on rappel?

[mungeclimber]

Correction recommendation for 750 Little Big Dog - Direct. The text says that the route starts "... directly below the first bolt."  It does not start directly below. It's slightly left of the fall line from first bolt by a couple feet.

Also, route 751 Windmills may be harder than 11c if you are not using a cheat stone. There has definitely been about 2-3" of erosion since 92 or so. I could barely touch the bottom lip of the hole, whereas in a past life where I could pull 11c TR onsight, I could reach the pocket and swing in dynamically.   

[JC w KC redux]

Didn't costanoan go in on rappel?

Brad doesn't say but I recently got a copy of Rubine's book and he says it did go in on rappel - boo! I mainly wanted to do it to get in an easy multi pitch. When I talked to Larry Arthur, he said he won't climb anything on the Citadel since the routes and the approach trail were established by nefarious methods and almost ruined climbing for everyone.

[mynameismud]

Brad doesn't say but I recently got a copy of Rubine's book and he says it did go in on rappel - boo! I mainly wanted to do it to get in an easy multi pitch. When I talked to Larry Arthur, he said he won't climb anything on the Citadel since the routes and the approach trail were established by nefarious methods and almost ruined climbing for everyone.

There were some questionable actions going on up there.  Another way to look at it is; The climbing community rallied together and worked with the Park Service to self correct a bad situation. 

[JC w KC redux]

I'd like to respectfully request that a side note be added to the description for the Keller Arete. The 4th bolt is in a pocket AND on the side of the pocket which cannot be seen when following the natural line up the arete. I understand why...the rock quality along what I perceived as the natural line on lead follows really lousy quality rock. I never saw the 4th bolt and ended up running it out through the crux over choss. Possibly add something in the description like "after the 3rd bolt, veer slightly right as you move up and "hunt" for a bolt in a pocket". Maybe the fact that the 3rd bolt feels somewhat off route should have been a clue/red flag for me. There may have been other factors at work - I recalled from reading the description the number 4 but that is AFTER the first bolt - so I think I had 4 in my mind as the total. When I looked up from 3 and saw a bolt way above me, I thought that was the next one. In reality that was the last bolt (#5). That vast stretch over choss probably should have been a red flag as well, seeing as the route is not listed as R - but hey...it's Pinns...and I've been on many routes that I thought were runout that had no R designation. For me, the natural line/logical line followed the center spine of the arete. It didn't occur to me to search one side or the other looking for the next(4th) bolt -and there is no way you can see that 4th bolt without seriously deviating from the natural line. My second didn't see it until she was standing in the pocket where it was placed - and the third up said he would have missed it too.

[Brad Young]

...It didn't occur to me to search one side or the other looking for the next bolt - and there is no way you can see that bolt without seriously deviating from the natural line.

Sounds like you weren't desperate enough

I'll make a note in that routes on line description (check it later and lemme know if it would have helped).

[JC w KC redux]

Sounds like you weren't desperate enough
I'll make a note in that routes on line description (check it later and lemme know if it would have helped).

Believe me, I was plenty desperate!

I checked the addition to the online description and that will be helpful but there is one problem.
It is the 4th bolt that I missed. The 3rd bolt is also right of center but easily seen.

[Brad Young]

It is the 4th bolt that I missed. The 3rd bolt is also right of center but easily seen.

OK, I misunderstood you. Is it right now?

I originally led the route without the fifth bolt and found that scary too.