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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: MUCCI on April 05, 2009, 04:44:34 PM

Title: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: MUCCI on April 05, 2009, 04:44:34 PM

Well I had to miss the big show on saturday which I bet was a blast, made it to the west side on friday which was perfect temps and big flowers all over the place.  Wandered on up to Tombstone to do a few routes, the regular route then Doc holiday direct.  Stopped at the lonesome bolt on the route and thought a new bolt was in order due to it spinning, creaking, and making my grade for a full on death bolt.  Placed a Stainless Steel 3/8 x 2.75 inch with SS hanger exactly 4" below and 5 " to the right  in the hardest rock I've drilled in pinnacles (Bomber). 
 The loadstone the original was placed in was fractured on the left and with some inspection noticed the stone was not solid.  I checked the possible clipping stances prior to placing the bolt and its placement does not affect the clip. Removed the original bolt which was a 3/8 x 1/2 Rivet. Then came the expansion sleeve which was 1/2 inch in diameter (never seen this type), it pulled out with a couple of light hammer taps.  The original hole is 1/2 in diameter and 3/4 inch deep.  Made a crude patch with munge and sweat which worked great.  Here's the pic:
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/bolt.jpg)

I did not finish the route, But it seems like a very bold route.
Hope you guys had a great time at RR, wish I cold have been there!
Mucci

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: mungeclimber on April 06, 2009, 08:42:50 AM

killer, thx Mucci


that thing is tiny

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: MUCCI on April 06, 2009, 08:47:25 AM

Yeah you can see it was only in 5 threads from the rust accumulation.  Has anyone lead this before?

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: mungeclimber on April 06, 2009, 09:47:50 AM

not me, but I'm pretty sure Brad has.

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: squiddo on April 06, 2009, 10:14:33 AM

ulgh......don't lean back.

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: Brad Young on April 11, 2009, 12:26:17 PM

Nice work, Josh. Yes, I've lead it. I could find the date in my journals, but probably in the early 90's. Looking at your report, I think I'm glad I didn't know what the "protection" really was as I led the route. Sheesh, why even bother putting in such an illusion of protection!

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: squiddo on April 13, 2009, 02:12:28 PM

Why bother.....good place to hang your rack and lighten things up on the way up ::)

Title: Re: Doc Holiday Direct 5.7 R (Bolt Replacement 4/03)
Post by: waldo on April 14, 2009, 06:07:52 PM

I led it back in 1993.  I was under the impression that there was another bolt.  It was too late to go back when if figured out that one pissant bolt was it. 

Waldo