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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on September 27, 2009, 10:18:43 AM

Title: Resurrection Route info
Post by: F4? on September 27, 2009, 10:18:43 AM
Dear Mr. Guidebook author,

Jake and I have a few comments on the Resurrection wall topo. Nothing wrong with the topo (very helpfull)

Trip report to follow with pictures.

gear:
4x double length runners
small to medium nuts
1 #2 camalot for the last pitch
1x Can of sunblock spray SPF 60 (the route goes into the shade at 11am or so).
2x gallons of water.
0x brains

P1: 5.9+, 1 move to the belay (so cruel!)
P2: right on
P3: it's a short pitch, maybe 80ft. Gear: knob tie offs and medium nuts. Belay bolts are on top of a huge load stone, just like the P2 belay as well.
P4: 5.8 akward

Jake, can you add anything else?

Oh and the bolts have not gotten better with age.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: mynameismud on September 27, 2009, 03:17:30 PM
Didn't you forget

Cell phone; so you can call and get directions for the decent?
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: F4? on September 27, 2009, 04:46:53 PM
Right, I was hoping there was a short cut back to the base. I figured, what the hell give Mr Beta a call.

Having to go by PMort sucked ass.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: squiddo on September 27, 2009, 05:05:37 PM
wait, 2 gallons of water? are you saying it was hot!! How could that be!!!

Proud send regardless and nice work.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: mungeclimber on September 27, 2009, 06:42:52 PM
Right, I was hoping there was a short cut back to the base. I figured, what the hell give Mr Beta a call.

Having to go by PMort sucked ass.

you should have brought the bolt kit and rapped off the So East Corner over those Gagner ex-projects.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: Jake M. on September 27, 2009, 07:34:21 PM
I'm glad we called the Pinnacles Beta Hotline - my toes got blistered from the heat of the sun directly on the black rubber rands of my climbing shoes - any extra time spend looking for the descent would have resulted in more extensive foot damage! It turned out that it was 110 degrees.

Very cool climb, should have gotten on it sooner. That rack looks fine, although I don't remember placing a #2 Camalot. I do remember placing a yellow alien in a perfect slot - needed to protect the second if he slipped on bird dung mantling into the bird nest - a nasty pendulum could result otherwise.

- I'd add a few TCUs or Aliens to that gear list.
- Goggles or light-colored sunglasses, since this route clearly gets minimal traffic. I had to clean a lot of holds before grabbing them, and some lichen got stuck in my eye... It finally worked itself out at 8:00 PM that night, it was getting really painful and starting to worry me! I think I will be adding yellow safety glasses to my gear list for all obscure/West Side routes:
(http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/174661_lg.jpg)
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: F4? on September 27, 2009, 08:15:27 PM
Why do you think I always wear sun glasses??
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/174661_lg.jpg

Shit, with all the bail slings on The Great Spectacular we could have down aided.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: mungeclimber on October 05, 2009, 01:28:23 PM
http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=371

hangers for 1.75 each up to 25.  small charge applies per hanger over 25 per order.

Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: F4? on October 05, 2009, 03:14:23 PM
I have like 50 Fixe SS that I got last year pretty cheap for I think $1.25. Ever seen 100 hangers? It's a pretty sight.

Of course I had to buy 100 to get the sweet price.
Title: Re: Resurrection Route info
Post by: squiddo on October 05, 2009, 03:15:31 PM
did you split them with Russian George? I love the way you describe peeps.