MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Jake M. on September 29, 2009, 07:06:22 AM
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Resurrection Wall
September 26, 2009
Pitch One:
Factor and I arrived in the West side parking lot before 8:00 AM, racked up and headed towards Resurrection Wall. The hike was short, but as we got closer, a warm wind began to blow - a sure sign that things would be heating up that day. We arrived at the base and I quickly racked up and started on the first pitch hoping to beat the heat. The first few moves were heads-up, since some of the holds were somewhat fragile, and thick dark-green moss covered all but the holds needed. After a large traverse reaching better rock, and thankfully some bolts, the climbing improved dramatically. Nothing too desperate, just nice solid 5.7 - 5.8 moves run out enough to make it interesting. Halfway up the first pitch, a steeper bulge kicks back, but large knobs on solid rock make it straightforward, and a nice knob tie-off gives a hint of things to come. I used long slings on all the bolts and knob, reducing rope drag on the final crux move to the anchors. Up to the final bolt, the protection had been a fairly rusty and aged set of 1/4" and 3/8" bolts and hangars, with some Star Dryvins and threaded studs - but not a spinner among them! The final bolt was a nice, shiny, new 3/8" fatty - perfect protection for the final tricky 5.9+ move to the anchors. I set up the belay in the hot morning sun, and soon Factor joined me at the anchor.
First pitch mossy start:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937809_gnaqC-M.jpg)
Higher up on the first pitch:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937835_CQLUA-M.jpg)
Pitch Two:
Factor lead the second pitch, a steep 5.11 affair next to a bolt ladder. The first two bolts were spinners before reaching another shiny 3/8" beauty for the crux moves through the bulge. He was forced to french-free through that section and then switched back to free climbing on the steep upper part of the pitch. As I followed, I found the unclips to be very strenuous - typical of a bolt ladder - and pumped out and fell twice figuring out the sequence of the lower crux bulge. I finally figured out a sequence, and enjoyed the extremely good rock and fun, pumpy moves - all with incredible exposure. The last moves to the anchor were also stiff, finishing out a demanding pitch.
Pitch two approaching crux:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937910_RJXEC-M.jpg)
higher on pitch two (it's overhanging):
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937772_WK9yc-M.jpg)
Pitch Three
I led off into the upper headwall on very steep knobby terrain. A couple bolts and then confusion, "should I keep traversing or go more up and right"? The answer was not clear, and no anchors could be seen. We were looking for the original route which stayed out on the face and avoided an obvious traverse left into a water chute. So I chose my own way, carefully slinging knobs and placing a few nuts for pro, heading into the unknown. There were several moments when I thought "what if I can't find any anchor...?" but I had faith in the topo and my ability to downclimb if needed (which I did a couple times to find the path of least resistance and place pro) and continued on. The holds were covered with crusty flakes of lichen, which I had to scrape off to ensure good friction for hands and feet. It also gave me the feeling these upper pitches were generally not climbed - maybe most people rappel after pitch two, or prefer the alternate finish? I continued climbing towards a large block, which I later discovered was hiding the anchor bolts from view. The pitch never let up in steepness, and was about 5.5 to 5.7 in difficulty. The final bolt before the anchor was out of reach on the path I had climbed, so I chose to just skip it and just head to the anchors.I might have been "off route" on this pitch, but it appeared that the climbing near the bolt was more difficult that what I had done - I'm fairly sure I had found a path of minimal resistance.
Anchor on top of pitch three:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937917_b3duw-M.jpg)
Pitch Four
The route-finding on this pitch was much more obvious, with a couple bolts leading to a big traverse to the left around a corner. It was also quite steep with large knobs, and going around the corner was very airy, but well protected with two good star dryvin bolts. The "crux" was going around the corner - I had to clean thick accumulations of lichen off a key foothold with my hand, and then pull a mantle into an abandoned birds nest. The nest was very solidly attached to the wall, not that I was trying to pull it off... Once around the corner, the traversed continued on easy ground to the base of a very steep waterchute. I backed up the lone star dryvin bolt with a solid nut and stemmed my way up the solid rock of the almost overhanging chute. Very fun moves (5.7 or 5.8 ) led upwards, but with little protection opportunities, all above the ledgy traverse - definitely a no-fall situation. I finally got in a good nut near the top and enjoyed one of the best top-outs in Pinnacles I have experienced - a quick transition from steep waterchute to level ground and the Manzanita bush anchors. The bush was large and seemed solid, but I still belayed from a sitting stance off my harness just in case. This might be an "ideal" hot-weather climb, but this time of year the face goes into the shade around 11:00 AM, so a later start would be nice for extra hot days like this one.
Final pitch traverse:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664937919_nZJPt-M.jpg)
Descent
We called Mr Mud from the summit to try and get any advice for a shortcut descent, since both of our feet were getting literally burned inside our climbing shoes. It was literally 110 degrees that day. Unfortunately there was no magical shortcut, and the sun beat us down as we headed down the standard 2nd/3rd class route towards the Eastern Front, and then contoured back uphill to the East and back to the base. It took almost an hour to descend because we had to periodically take off our shoes to cool our feet - I'm not kidding! We also ran out of water, even though we had taken 3.5 liters, for a four-pitch climb!
My blistered toes:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664955955_sNqhr-S.jpg)
My daughter's foot (for reference). She saw me take the picture of my foot and demanded I take one of hers:
(http://sharknetwork.smugmug.com/photos/664955967_8R9LC-S.jpg)
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Maybe it was the heat that made the holds smaller. It's a great route, when in the shade. I think we were 2hrs early.
Hats off to someone that can on-sight this route the 1st time around.
I should have taken a picture of the P2 anchors. Okay, but scary when Jake lobbed off on TR.
I think this route has one of the best top outs. THe last moves are overhanging and the whole face falls below you. Sorry no pictures this time.
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Great trip report. Can't imagine the heat - Joe and I were climbing in Tuolumne Meadows that day and we were warm.
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Oh and we met a news photographer in the parking lot. He was there to cover the condor release. That was until the ranger told him it was on the East-side!
Yah, I was wondering where Gavin was when he said "hang out for a bit and you'll see some condors." We were the only "suckers" in the parking lot!
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I think they moved the condors because of the fire. Just taking em back I suppose.
nice job guys! dumb, but still a nice job. 110F, nutburgers.
good beta on the TR too. I think Mr. Mud did the replacement on that crux bolt, but the memory is foggy.
my pinns thread bumps on the taco didn't last long. may have to bump em over here.
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SWEET! Now that's what I'm talkin about!
Good work, that wall looks bigtime steep!
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dumb, but still a nice job. 110F, nutburgers.
Dumb? What? We were just 2hrs early and 2 gallons of water short.
Oh and when it's 100+ there, the gravel burns your feet! But it was a dry heat with a slight beeze. Not too bad.
Just think, we had an epic only 2hrs from home. That's cheaper than going up to the valley and suffering.
I think Clint replaced one of the newer bolts.
It is an amazing wall. Super steep. I'd like to clean the route up...replace a few bolts.
my pinns thread bumps on the taco didn't last long. may have to bump em over here.
Non believers.
Oh, and we saw some bail gear on 1st pitch. It was a locking biner and a sling on a stud. Oddly, it looked like one of Stroms....and it was!
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yeah, I'm pretty bummed with what Chris did with the photos on the taco, so I suppose I won't be bumping too many pinns threads over there anymore.
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Sorry for the thread drift, but Munge, I haven't studied the Supertopoforum changes. What changes to the photos that you don't like?
Factor, I haven't done either version of Resurrection Wall, and I should soon. Hustle up with the rebolting if you're going to do it (Please).
Josh, how about getting on one or both variants with me before Thanksgiving?
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The bum NWS weather forecast I saw put Pinnacles at 94 degrees that day, not the 110 it ended up being. Forecasters seem to have been blowing the forecast a lot lately...
Actually it felt comfortable climbing that day, at least in the shade - seriously! There was a slight breeze on the wall which helped. In my mind, the heat didn't even register after we went in the shade, until the top-out and hellish descent.
I've remember some really bad hot days in the past at Pinnacles, where we wasted away in whatever shade we could find. Not much climbing happened on those days. But this time was different.
I second the request for elaboration on the Supertopo changes - Munge?
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Sorry for the thread drift, but Munge, I haven't studied the Supertopoforum changes. What changes to the photos that you don't like?
Factor, I haven't done either version of Resurrection Wall, and I should soon. Hustle up with the rebolting if you're going to do it (Please).
Josh, how about getting on one or both variants with me before Thanksgiving?
Chris made copies of several trip reports including one of mine (snake dike from GP) and loaded them to the new section for trip reports. The big bummer is that he made copies of images that I had hosted with my own image hosting company without checking with me, or others I assume, to see if I wanted him to make a copy for the purpose of storing them on his site.
That's why I don't upload many images to e.g. summitpost or widefetish, I like having the ownership over the image, even if someone can make a copy for themself for their own recreational non commercial purposes. [actually just checked the rights grant, and it's "all rights reserved"]
I'm just dissappointed at how cavalier the copies were made, especially with Chris in the printing business. He should know better. I've removed them from the trip reports area. Fortunately there is a delete image option. The original TR post is still in the forum with links from my hosting provider.
does anyone else think that he played a little fast and loose with the images?
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Brad, I thought you had done Resurrection.
I'd do some replacing, but I'd need to find another sucker, I mean partner to help. You have a drill, right?
Really, I'd upgrade some of the belay anchors and a few of those P2 bolts.
I'd like to do the 10a variation next time.
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F4, I'd be down with doing the route a service when it cools down a tad
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is there a spot to put in a nice top anchor? sounds like the bushes are suspect.
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You can nestle your bum behind a large loadstone at the top. Super Quality Belay.
No worries.
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tie it off, and rap in to replace the mange bolts?
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Brad- Let's do it! I'll bring the drill, maybe we can beef up a belay and a bolt or two. I got a bunch of goodies for the sole purpose of preserving the classics!
Man, counting the degrees till pinnacles season starts, I've been training all summer long on that damn granite, getting my hooking and cleaning down tight, I think I may give pinnacles a good run this year!
I'll be in touch!
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Best to start at the bottom and replace as you go. Oh and scrub a bit as you go with a wire brush. The 2nd pitch could use it.
A few on the upper last pitch would have to be replaced on rappel because they were on an akward traverse....but they were relatively okay.
Is it ethical to replace an inch or two to the right? You know for better rock quality? Rupert used these odd bolts that have 2x nuts. I suspect they'll break off.
I'll setup a weekend when I get back from S. Africa (end of October). Maybe then it'll be cooler.
Mucci, I can ask Clint for a few ASCA bolts for the balys and such. Eric said it best for the 2nd pitch, replace every 2nd or even 3rd bolt (the 2nd has 14 old ones and 1 new one).
Munge, you need to cache a case or two of Tecate up there as well.
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Insert Quote
tie it off, and rap in to replace the mange bolts?
I'll pay the shmuck who ties off on those bushes and raps in $5. The whole wall is kinda overhaning.
You can nestle your bum behind a large loadstone at the top. Super Quality Belay.
No worries.
Typical!
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I have a bunch of ASCA donated Bolts, hangers, and Links.
All of the hangers are Painted a happy pinnacles color.
Ready to go on any replacement, I am planning on bringing a kit with me until I run out of hardware.
Also, I don't think there is any problem moving a bolt ( Provided the original hole is not useable) a few inches in search of better rock.
Trying to not affect the clipping stance, or alter the nature of the route.
Cheers.
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Yeah, you've got to do the best you can with the rock when rebolting. When I rebolted Tuff on The Frog two of the bolts came out with frightening ease (Beyer just slammed them into crap rock). They came out with little effort and, in each case they brought with them a large half-moon of rock from around the bolt. No way to re-use the hole, hell there wasn't really a hole left, only a crater. And I couldn't find good rock nearby. So, I tried to place the replacement bolts in good rock while not changing the character of the route. I had to place one of them over 2 feet away, because that was the only place I could find good rock. Since the climb is in a waterchute, I tried to place the bolt at the same height, and I did so within a few inches, and this left the route essentially the same.
Do the best you can.
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I think the hardest part of rebolting is getting the new stuff in good rock. I think the upper belays might be like that.
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This weekend looks good for Pinns - it is supposed be in the 70s. What a difference a week makes.
Hey Munge, I agree it is totally bogus to copy images like that. Offering free storage space for image hosting could actually be a bonus for Taco users, but he could just as easily rolled the new system out and let people upload images themselves, and in the process make users agree with whatever terms he wants. He should have just displayed the TRs on the other page and not changed anything about them, but it looks like they integrated photos into a new system as well. Interestingly, the Photos tab also displays photos from the TRs. Maybe another approach would have been to store the full URL to the photos into database where he could also assigned them categories, allowing them to be used in multiple places on the site. That could theoretically allow someone the flexibility of storing images elsewhere, or on his server, based on their choice. There are probably many other technical factors involved, though.
However, I think the basic concept of attaching trip reports to route pages is a good one. Unfortunately poor execution.
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Jake, you're spot on.
RJ emailed me about the missing images. Kinda a weird email, but I replied explaining my intent to retain ownership in my images, didn't appreciate the migration, etc. and then explained what I had done to remove the images and immediately got an apology. They thought they had sent out requests to all the users they were going to auto migrate and had received acknowledgements apparently, but made a mistake on my name when they were tracking the acks. Chris then followed up with an apology as well. I just read it on my phone, so haven't read the full thing, but I appreciate the apologies for the honest mistake.
My faith in the climbing community remains steadfast.