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Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: mungeclimber on October 14, 2009, 01:09:43 PM

Title: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 14, 2009, 01:09:43 PM
post yer pics and trip reports here ASAP
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 14, 2009, 01:16:55 PM
Jeeze Munge, he is still in the air!!

Hurry up though F4
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 15, 2009, 09:29:27 AM
i'm a go-getter

hahaha

that and online OCD
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 15, 2009, 09:32:10 AM
But seriously....where is he. Why hasn't he posted:-)
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 15, 2009, 07:23:52 PM
total slackage

Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: Brad Young on October 15, 2009, 07:36:55 PM
Yo, you home yourself yet? Passes are closed. Lots of good folks going for a repeat of last weekend. You joining us for two days this time?
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 15, 2009, 08:12:21 PM
not yet, home late tomorrow


yep, planning on both days, but maybe a late start Saturday.  need to send the crack.


Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 18, 2009, 11:09:07 PM
Update!

SA is an amazing place. Where else do you get to drive on the left side of the road, get attacked by a bird and watch baboons fight below you.

We just got back from Montagu. It's a pretty cool place. The rock, while not granite was just like Mission Gorge...slicker than shit!

But I was on to that and kept on cranking. Sorry my team photographer had technical troubles and was occupied, so pictures are limited.

Eric, this it YOUR place to climb. The bolts are reasonably spaced (yes, I went above a bolt by 2 feet). In some places, they even placed a bolt next to fractures. The reasoning was, gear is heavy and you'd get tied carrying it up on the approach. So thoughtful!

Pictures to follow soon.

PS, Squiddo, stop jerking off!
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 19, 2009, 08:16:00 AM
F4, glad you are safe.

PS, shut yer pie hole...that is a prIvate matter.  >:D
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: Brad Young on October 19, 2009, 08:39:20 AM
"(yes, I went above a bolt by 2 feet). "

I assume this describes where your hands were - 2 feet above the bolt? Certainly you don't let your feet get that high above a bolt? You could get hurt!
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 19, 2009, 09:14:14 AM
/me laughing robustly
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 19, 2009, 09:43:02 AM
Munge don't laugh.....a 5 foot fall is scary :o
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 19, 2009, 10:52:12 AM
 :o






oh whoa, why did my text go red?  ill gnar


Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 19, 2009, 10:54:33 AM
Munge, 'cause you were scared.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 19, 2009, 01:36:10 PM
/me typing in red
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 19, 2009, 01:36:45 PM
weird... "/me"  =  red text with an asterisk
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 19, 2009, 01:49:12 PM
hey now, my feet got more than 2 feet above the bolt in some cases. And I did fall, and it was fun. My belayer was grinning..."I gave you a dynamic belay".

The gym has made me strong, not a weaksauce.

The best part of the climbing weekend was the drive to the place went through an amazing mtn range that must have tons of potential.


Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 19, 2009, 02:01:10 PM
weak-sauce
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 22, 2009, 06:34:34 AM
Here goes a short trip report....

At the DC airport...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689011232_W4QXs-Ti.jpg)

At the Joberg Airport.....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689010338_qnqYj-S.jpg)

Our 1st day in cape town after breakfast. No shit, there's this pile of choss above the city.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689008819_P24bH-S.jpg)

At Debos farm in Montagu. This place was so cool. Our room was a converted barn. The shower felt oh so nice. Plus it was cheap.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689005666_CaajE-S.jpg)

This is our 2nd day of climbing. My route was 5.9. Can you say squeeze job. The rock was a compressed sandstone...i.e. no friction. It remined me of SD Mission Gorge.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689004878_b4sTA-M.jpg)

And me climbing around on table mountain.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/689016764_MBjdU-M.jpg)

More to come....
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 22, 2009, 06:53:01 AM
F4,

Very nice and thanks. Some questions if you will.....

1. James is rocking a wide step.....he carrying?
2. You growing a Van dyke? Trying to meet men for climbing excursions? That is certainly one approach.
3. Just how long DID those pictures take to upload from SA to Mountain View Smugmug?
4. Lastly...what in the world IS James traveling in? Is that a Giraffe costume?
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 22, 2009, 11:43:24 AM
1. Huh?
2. Yah like that growth? It's called being a cheap ass and not buying a razor.
3. Yep, was able to upload some pictures in 5 min. Prolly clogged the pipe out of SA.
4. Yep, the wife found a Giraffe jacket. Pretty funny she brought it on the trip.

The best part of the Montagu trip was climbing with a german couple Christian and Nina. Christian was layed back, easy going. "what's your job I ask?" "I guide abroad and in the Alps". How about the Eiger..."yes". Oh and they are from a place in Germany called Frankenjuka (sp?).

Meanwhile the wedding group is enjoying contrived 5.8s and have no clue how good Christian really is.

Oddly, Christian was laying low due to the fact that he was healing from a shoulder/ separated bicept injury (FingAAA!!!) Yah, guess I wasn't the only sandbagger on the trip.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 22, 2009, 11:52:08 AM
groovy! 


poor James, the shame of the Giraffe photo. scarred for life probably.


we'll have to convert him to an alpinist to counter balance the effect.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 22, 2009, 12:12:09 PM
watch those Germans in SA. Suspicious >:D
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 25, 2009, 11:06:40 PM
Update from Africa...

I finally got to cl;imb on Table Mountain yesterday. That's the good part. The bad part was it was windy like you cannot imagine. So we had to walk up to the climb and then walk off. Yep, no beers at the top and a quick ride down. Instead we had hurricane force winds that were knocking us down. I guess it added to the adventure.

We climbed Jacob's Ladder, a 5.8. Holy sheep-dip is was steeep!! The rock is sandstone and was a pain to pro. I ended up doing huge run-outs on the 2nd pitch (it's only 3 pitches). Sadly, we were envoloped in clouds and had no view.

I'll post a few, but imagine this guy as me, just better looking...
(http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery/DSCF2813.jpg)
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 28, 2009, 09:19:43 AM
still waiting........ :'(
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 29, 2009, 05:55:29 PM
Alright, here are a few pictures of Table Mountain......

My partner Henk wasn't up for carrying a camera, nor letting me snap pictures of him while belaying him (go figure). So I shot what I could, when I could.

The approach trail is setup for adventure hiking...scrambling and aiding up steep sections.

Like I said before, the route was only 5.8, but it was a pain for me to figure out the placements on lead for the 1st time. You couldn't place a piece high above you since all the placements were horizontal. There were cool sling placements.

Standard disclaimer...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3555/696913162_CtVGJ-S.jpg)

this is a bad sign..they call it the white table cloth...FING windy
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3557/696913899_MkqHf-S.jpg)

Yep, they make it easy...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3551/696913337_JsXEB-M.jpg)

Yes, the chains are to help you get up the trail. Henk said this hardware was new...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3552/696913458_67Uum-M.jpg)

Henk following on the 2nd official pitch (we soloed the offical 1st)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3563/696914346_mqifm-M.jpg)

The next pitch (our 2nd) was the crux and the money pitch. I climbed up an akward slot (5.8). After that I went up to a horizontal rail. The rope drag was soo bad on the traverse that I had to reverse it and use my 10ft cordalette as a runner.
Picture for reference.
(http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery/DSCF2813.jpg)

After the traverse I went straight up on the most amazing rock. The holds were great and my gear was getting lighter.

Finnally I reached a dish/ ledge. After setting up a 5 point equalized belay..I looked to my left and saw an old fixed pin and a hex placement, Fudge!

Me starting the final 3rd pitch. Notice how steep the rock is...verticle.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3565/696914506_qT6ky-M.jpg)

The 3rd pitch was sweet. Steep climbing to a overhaning roof slot. Placed a cam and pulled through the roof.

Henk topping out. Notice the clouds.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3566/696914678_nFYpD-M.jpg)

Sadly, Henk had trouble getting out my orange alien and he had to leave it. Oddly, I found a #2 camalot on the final top-out. So I came even. Gear is super pricy down there so I tolk Henk it was cool. Mind you the sun was sinking and for me to f** around would waste precious daylight.

Proof that I didn't take the cable car to the top....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Africa09/DSCF3567/696914821_wLu3P-S.jpg)

After topping out we had to high tail it accross table mtn to a decent trail. At the top Henk reminded me that table mtn was classified as "Apline terrain" yep sure was. Then the fun really began as we had to walk down step after step after switchbacks. Henk had mentioned something about mindless switchbacks...he was right.

We got back to the car and the sun had set. The wind was crazy. Later on that night there was thunder, lightning and hail....all the while the wind howled.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 29, 2009, 08:15:52 PM
wow!

Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mudworm on October 29, 2009, 08:26:01 PM
wow too!
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mynameismud on October 29, 2009, 08:31:19 PM
Dang.  Looks super cool.  Props.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: squiddo on October 29, 2009, 10:27:46 PM
Very nice E.

PS, you cannot have my Orange Alien.
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 29, 2009, 10:37:56 PM
F4, order it fast...

http://mammothgear.com/shop/Alien_28239.htm

serious
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: F4? on October 30, 2009, 06:25:30 AM
Munge, thanks for the lead. I bought an orange and a gold one  ;D

Are you inferring that it would be prudent to pony up the $500 bones for a set of hybrids while they are in stock??
Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: mungeclimber on October 30, 2009, 08:35:31 AM
Dave Waggoner passed away. CCH was a privately held company.  Without him steering the ship, who know when aliens will be available again.

Title: Re: South Africa Official Climbing Thread
Post by: joe on November 03, 2009, 07:07:57 PM
just saw this thread.  great photos, TR.  welcome back.

what route is the orange alien on?