MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: kylequeener on October 26, 2009, 02:28:52 PM
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Has it been FFA'd yet?
It's appealing to me. does anyone have info about it, or personal experience of free climbing on it?
Best,
-Kyle
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No FFA as far as I've heard. Call Belizzi, he's usually very willing to talk climbing. In fact, make sure you've got more than just a minute or two to talk, he's very friendly.
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No FFA as far as I've heard. Call Belizzi, he's usually very willing to talk climbing. In fact, make sure you've got more than just a minute or two to talk, he's very friendly.
HA, more than willing is a slight understatment:-)
Kyle, come in PG Sunnyvale and talk to him in person. You'll need to push F4 out of the way though....the groupie
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From what I understand the crux pitch has not been freed. All the individual sections have gone but it has not been linked.
Belizzi might even go up there with you. I will most likely talk to him tomorrow.
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The line looks interesting. W saw tat slings on many of the 1st pitch bolts when we were on Resurrection.
Yah, Chris would give you all the beta. I'd bring a sharp pencil and a couple pads of paper.
You'll need to push F4 out of the way though....the groupie
You are just jealous.
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You are just jealous.
snif snif
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I went for the Flash attempt early this morning. It climbs really well but I lost interest when I was yarding on a vibrating flake (which is mandatory to use when free climbing). The flake is roughly 10 feet long, over a foot thick and at its widest part around three feet. You can see a fracture extending all the way to where it meets another corner. The junk show of dust and small rocks slipping out from behind grabbed my attention. I bailed being concerned for the possibility of a cut rope rope and/or sending a massive chunk of rock down onto my belayer. It is not a problem when aiding this section though.
But.... I won't be going back. I like loose rock but not when it has lethal potential.
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But.... I won't be going back. I like loose rock but not when it has lethal potential.
Damn, sorry to hear that.
Would you change your mind if we set you up with a disposable belayer?
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Sh#t. I probably shouldn't have said that.
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Damn, sorry to hear that.
Would you change your mind if we set you up with a disposable belayer?
Sure, I'd love to go climbing with you Brad! ;D
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Sure, I'd love to go climbing with you Brad! ;D
;D
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Would you change your mind if we set you up with a disposable belayer?
Sure, I'd love to go climbing with you Brad! ;D
Good one Kyle :)
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Sure, I'd love to go climbing with you Brad! ;D
I deserved that.
How about a trade? We'll go climb, but not on The Great Spectacular?
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I deserved that.
How about a trade? We'll go climb, but not on The Great Spectacular?
Sounds good to me!
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what if said flake was sent to the ground?
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what if said flake was sent to the ground?
(Hint) it would be better for all if the flake made that choice itself; if it miraculously chose this point in geologic time to depart the mother stone.
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Live to climb a harder grade.
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what if said flake was sent to the ground?
Game on I suppose. I thought the climbing was really cool. But yeah, I'm not going to climb through that section in its current state. I actually aided through and then lowered down and tried it on TR, giving my belayer the okay to run like hell and save himself if it moved. It held but OMG it was not cool feeling it vibrating with the smallest touch. I bet some people wouldn't think twice about it but it's not something I feel like gambling with. I bet Chris and Paul just climbed right through it, as well as others. But for me, no way. It is loose and the consequence too great.
If it came off I'd go back up. If it was my route I would jettison it. But it's not my route and it's still there. For now.
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Bummmer
Is it A1 up to said flake?
Just curious
Pictures might be helpful.
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Bummmer
Is it A1 up to said flake?
Just curious
Pictures might be helpful.
You could probably aid the the whole thing but the bottom 30-40 feet its pretty easy free climbing.
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Rumour has it that Steve Schneider has freed the route.
PS- when we went up to rebolt Resurrection Wall we saw that someone had put blue painter's tape in some bushes on the approach which seemed to be marking the approach. Anybody know who put that stuff there?
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is this new? When I talked to Chris he did not get all the moves free in one push due to holds breaking.
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That's why it is just a rumour. It is hard to believe that holds could be breaking on anyone at the Pinnacles:-)
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Rumour has it that Steve Schneider has freed the route.
PS- when we went up to rebolt Resurrection Wall we saw that someone had put blue painter's tape in some bushes on the approach which seemed to be marking the approach. Anybody know who put that stuff there?
Weird. That wasn't there the last time I was up there.
It is pretty choss up there in the crux. I'm missing the Pinnacles but not missing all the holds breaking.
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the holds breaking is half the fun.