MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: MUCCI on October 28, 2009, 08:02:04 PM
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Met Brad on the West side for a day of climbing, little did I know we were heading into full on Patagonia conditions with our first main objective being the North face of the Citadel.
It was COLD! High winds brought out the Puff Puff jackets and we were soon on the way up the trail. The Beserker route was on the list for the day. Rarely done (maybe 3 ascents) we were planning on replacing some of the bolts/anchors on the way up.
Well, by the time we got to the base our plans changed due to the 120mph winds and the spindrifts that accompanied each gust. "We may as well do the first pitch and beef up the anchor since we hiked all the way up here". Sure I said as I volunteered my hammer skillz in place of leading the ominous corner.
So, dressed in his denali puff jacket and a snowman hat Brad took off, 20 feet up I hear a "OHH" as a few softballs come bouncing down my way. I don't even move as they land near my feet. You see, today we were on a mission, one that would make most three star chasers vomit. To find the most exciting, seldom done, chosstacular routes at pinnacles.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/Beserk.jpg)
Beserker turned out to be a great first pitch with just a touch of 5.9 toward the top of the really good crack. The bolts were all 3/8 compression and in pretty good shape! When brad got to the belay he quickly rigged a lower off and soon enough was at the base, ranting about how warm he was.
I started to snicker as I tied into the rope and started up to take care of the hardware. The anchors were deemed good enough to leave alone, so I added a new fatty to beef it up a bit. As I tied off and began drilling I see Brad chasing the sun all over the little boulders, Proudly announcing that he found some rays on top of a little pinnacle. TAP, TAp the bolt is in and I am on the way down, stopping to put a new hanger on one of the Pro bolts. We are heading back up to add chains and new hardware this season to the entire route, just wanted to get a head start.
We were finished for the day at the Citadel, way too cold and my mustache had frozen over so we were off to one of the last great choss problems in the Pinns, The Famed "Never Forget 10a" on Elephant rock!
I was a little under the weather due to the extreme exposure at the Citadel, Brad decided to lead the 1st pitch of this classic route. Never have I seen a man climb such obviously chossy, kitty litter rock with such composure! Only a 5 gallon bucket worth of rock came off in the 90 feet to the anchor!
After I sent up the puff to a frozen Brad, I began to second the vertical litter box. Many words were flowing from my mouth, some I did not even know I had in my vocabulary! Brad was surely laughing at my flailing. I pulled off a prominent pillar which almost sent me on the big ride, gathered myself and began the dirt hopping up to the manky belay.
Brad, seeking the warmth moved the belay to the lone pro bolt on the slab traverse, Keeping the main anchor as a back up. I grabbed the rack and began the traverse to the cool RFC. Lotsa loose stuff but no worries, We are the Aficionados of Choss remember?
I finally get to the corner and get some cool moves in with really good cams, make it to the top of the corner and begin to chimney up the Wisconsin Gravel pit, casually knocking off another 5 gallon bucket of choss on the way. Choss, choss, choss we summit! Probably the 2nd or 3rd modern (known) ascent of this classic choss testpiece! WhoooP! Big props to Brad for sending the crux pitch, adding yet another route to the List 793 and counting!
Big fun and a great day, Brad kept me on my toes for my first visit of the year to the greatest place on earth.
Peace,
Mucci
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sweet!
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As I was belaying Josh up the first pitch of Never Forget, I heard few of his words over the 120 mile per hour winds. Only one phrase came across clearly: "This is the most jingus route I've ever been on...." It probably is now that all the holds are gone. I was cold with my jacket on in the sun. In the photo I'm climbing while wearing two jackets.
And, it's true, I knocked off a baseball sized rock which landed within 18 inches of Josh's foot. And he didn't even flinch.
Nice day, Josh, hope the cold/flu is a short one.
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you bad boyz sure know how to sell a route. top of my list. can't wait to run right out there and get on the 'classic test piece'.
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I think some of that kitty litter hit me while I was out riding in the hills west of San Jose... ;)
Sounds fun!
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"can't wait to run right out there and get on the 'classic test piece."
Let's see: 5.9 that's a sandbag, check;
37 year old, quarter inch bolts, sticking out of the rock, check;
Joe on the lead, check;
A belay anchor consisting of two 3/16th inch bolts (yes, for you who aren't Mudworm smart at math, those bolts are smaller than 1/4 inch), check.
I guess I've seen Joe on his share of necky leads. When you get on this one, take cams from .5 to 2 Camalot.
And talk about cold - I just walked Tricia to the bus and it's 36 degrees out there. Feels like December. Another cup of coffee is in order.
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"can't wait to run right out there and get on the 'classic test piece."
Let's see: 5.9 that's a sandbag, check;
37 year old, quarter inch bolts, sticking out of the rock, check;
Joe on the lead, check;
A belay anchor consisting of two 3/16th inch bolts (yes, for you who aren't Mudworm smart at math, those bolts are smaller than 1/4 inch), check.
I guess I've seen Joe on his share of necky leads. When you get on this one, take cams from .5 to 2 Camalot.
And talk about cold - I just walked Tricia to the bus and it's 36 degrees out there. Feels like December. Another cup of coffee is in order.
wowo, sounds epic! Also sounds like winter.
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Good TR, I should be working.
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you bad boyz sure know how to sell a route. top of my list. can't wait to run right out there and get on the 'classic test piece'.
Hey Joe, let's get out there soon.
I think squiddo is going to head to warmer weather...his tights aren't windproof.
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Masters of mud!
Enjoyed the TR because it sounds like suffering! :)
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Brad- I just talked to Lars, He said "I told you it was a Icebox up there". He also mentioned that the second bolt we replaced the hanger on was not his. So there was a pretty big RO up to those anchors.
I am on my deathbed as we speak but got the loan and on my way to pick up my "Mini Munge Mobile"
Munge- you will get a laugh at the sandlot this year.......
Cheers all and happy climbing
Mucci
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Mucci, just curious. This Lars is not the same Lars at Trailhead Cyclery in San Jose, or is he?
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oh reallly? I'm thinking Taco mobile, yeah? nice! 4x for the drive to Shuteye?
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Good on the loan Josh. Don't die though, you've got to sustain Pinnacles traditions.
And Mudworm, maybe some suffering. I know though that I laughed a lot too yesterday.
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I was unaware the Monument had test pieces...
What are the others?!
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Mud- different lars, formerly known as Larry Johnson.
Just got the truck! Whoop! No more Italiano style in the black sedan, now my bivies will be in the back of the truck!
Mucci
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Nexus 5.11, Lava Falls 5.9, Carpal Tunnel 5.10, Gorillas in the Moss 5.12, are a couple. Of course The Great Spectacular 5.13.
I was unaware the Monument had test pieces...
What are the others?!
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Cannot forget Conduit to the Cosmos 5.10 (5.12 if you do the 3rd pitch.)
Peregrine is hard and loose but the bolts are terrible. Would be fun with a couple of new bolts.
Give me a couple of days and I will come up with a short list of what I consider test pieces. Some just might be a test piece for the grade.
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define test piece in either case Mudmeister
pics of said Italiano mobster car please Mucci!
now, as for Peregrine's bolts, which pitch? We talking A1 here? or the bolts putting us into A2 territory?
This route is high on my list right now to do before the closures. Might be able to do some replacement while up there.
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Peregrines bolts, second pitch. Depends on how far away from the belay you get :)
A1 unless you fall. To be honest, I would not trust some of the bolts on the second pitch to a fall. They are bad and so is the rock.
Replacing every 3rd bolt should be fine. When I was working it, I was not willing to lead on those bolts so, I went up above the first overhang then equalized three of the better bolts and setup a TR.
Was not able to link all the moves below and through the first bulge but could do all the moves and link sections.
Thin, loose, steep.
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I define a test piece as a difficult route for the grade. It has to Test the leader. It can test the actually climbing skills being a very technical climb, it can very physical or it can be a mental route, preferably it is all three.
Lava Falls, is heady for 5.9 with a bit of a run through the bulge. It is also physical since it is a bit steep. For 5.9 good skills are needed for the upper bulge.
Nexus, heady and skills not real physical since you can get a good rest below and in the crux.
Gorillas in the Moss, skills and physical.
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Lava Falls is just classic. Done it a hand full of times now. Sometime I'll bring slings for it.
Conduit to the Cosmos 5.10, Been on that... Wasn't feeling the bolts, down climbed from the bulge. My buddy went for it though... He didn't know it was R rated and took a few 25-30 Ft. falls. Proud attempts for sure.
I'll add Cuidado as a test piece for the grade as well. Its not hard 5.10, but its a great mental head trip.
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Some of the real Pinnacles testpieces are the ones that are "mental head trips." Keeping it together on the first pitch of Herschel Berschel and climbs like that are like soloing on crappy rock is a whole different type of "test."
Adventure lives still at Pinns.
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Free Soloing at Pinns is beyond a head trip. Its when you can really focus the most and get into a good state of mind. And then keep hoping holds won't break! Free soloing there is about the scariest thing I've ever put myself through. Rewarding as well. Makes you feel like you got away with something!
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in that case, I'll add Rock Naked to the list.
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Hey Mr Mud, here are a few to job yer memory:
Shake n Bake
Resurrection
Son of Dawn Wall
POD
Heat Seeking
Heritic
Shit, why not most of them McConachie routes.
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I can see Shake and Bake - It comes down a notch with good bolts
I would not include Resurrection, SOD, POD or Heretic. All good routes but not really test pieces.
Many of the McConachie routes do somehow qualify.
The two newly revived Glen Deny routes on Machete ( the names escape me at the moment.
Sepiente de Cascabale <sp> located on Machete
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I define a test piece as a difficult route for the grade. It has to Test the leader. It can test the actually climbing skills being a very technical climb, it can very physical or it can be a mental route, preferably it is all three.
I'd say those routes test the leader. Resurrection tests you in runout and in on-sight skills.
Many of the McConachie routes do somehow qualify.
Yah, them 2 bit routes. Not all, but many should qualify.