MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on January 10, 2010, 07:17:32 PM
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For years marc and I had talked about doing this old time classic. Joe even offered to solo it with me (ewe).
So it was finnally to be...
We racked up with some runners, a set of nuts and a few cams. The holy guide said only 8 runners...for a chimney climb? Surely the author was off his rocker. We left everthing above #3 camalot in the car.
We're going up that? (Hint....it's the wide thingy that looks like a lobe)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5102/762003651_UP6Vd-M.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5109/762006414_NPvaB-X2-1.jpg)
Looking out from the 1st pitch...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5105/762007176_otdrG-M-1.jpg)
In the chasm, looking at the 2nd pitch (I linked 1 & 2 as 1)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5106/762006982_xMRjw-XL-1.jpg)
It got much narrower and the bird poop increased. Squiddo doing some wide work
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5107/762006783_bsYps-XL-1.jpg)
Now this is when it gets interesting. We look up and 20-30 ft up is a manky bolt. Squiddo acends into the light.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5108/762006596_4di8a-XL-1.jpg)
Yet, the 2nd bolt was 20 or so feet up from the 1st. This was OLD School Bridging..like we do much of that these days. So Squiddo wasn't up for a 20ft run on a manky old bolt whose nail was sticking 1/2" out. Why not it's only 5.6?
So I launch up the chasm. Big hold to a big hold. I quickly pass the bolt and keep going. I get '6ft from the 2nd bolt and have to commit to bridging. Alas, I see a placement for a #2 camalot. I get 2 lobes in..good right. The moves are okay and I get to the 2nd bolt. From there you start face climbing on the left face.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5110/762006236_wovo4-X2-1.jpg)
That brought us to the technical crux of the climb...a 5.8 wide chute..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5114/762005448_qQg6q-X2-1.jpg)
Squiddo cruzed the chute. Oddly, the topo said bolts with no hangers...yah, no hangers OR studs (wtf?). But terrain was cake.
After that there are a short pitch with 2 bolts that took us to a nice meadow.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5115/762005243_3GXmr-XL.jpg)
To be cont......
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The slot is cool looking.
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good potential in there
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neat, look forward to the rest!
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Good times. BTW, don't forget the views we had from the High Peaks trail. Seemed to be a group of climbers waaaaay down above the Balconies on Crowley. Must have been high
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Yah, we could see a couple people hanging out at Crowley Towers.
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just a couple?
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just a couple?
More than 2..like we wasted our time trying to count fleas.
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nicely done boys.
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Factor, were waiting for the rest. Get on it. You remind me of the old question: "how do you keep and idiot in suspense?"
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More?? Squiddo needs to post up some picture and I need to get free from work to write more.
One comment on the route....amazing! I'm impressed with how they were able to place thier bolts from stances. Then again I don't do much bridging anymore like they used to.
The wide part being only 5.6 makes me wonder how terrified I'd be doing the 1/2 dollar or the ear since they are 5.8!
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F4, quit pushing me! I got them on smugmug but haven't had time yet to post over.
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yeah F4, take this...
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Feather-Canyon/Pinnacles-Feather-Canyon/IMG0707/763018934_C8YPj-L.jpg)
this post will self destruct later
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yeah F4, take this...
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Feather-Canyon/Pinnacles-Feather-Canyon/IMG0707/763018934_C8YPj-L.jpg)
this post will self destruct later
Mungie, you sneaky little bastard! Good one and I love it!
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Nice, don't let it self destruct later.
So, Factor, when you said "amazing!" were you talking aobut the route? You guys need to re-set priorities and get some stuff posted.
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Nice, don't let it self destruct later.
So, Factor, when you said "amazing!" were you talking aobut the route? You guys need to re-set priorities and get some stuff posted.
I love the pressure to post. I'm off-site in SF through Wens. I doubt my boss would agree about the prioritites set over the next 36 hours.
Patience
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sorry, I know how you feel. it's like starving dirt bag climbers.
do your thang squiddo. and stop checking this site. ;)
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I don't think Munge is giving you good advice when he says to stop checking the site. Maybe a better solution would be to have your lawyer have a little chat with your boss about resetting those priorities ;D ;D
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Those two pitches are of a fairly different character. Texas Flake is of the same character but 5.8.
More?? Squiddo needs to post up some picture and I need to get free from work to write more.
One comment on the route....amazing! I'm impressed with how they were able to place thier bolts from stances. Then again I don't do much bridging anymore like they used to.
The wide part being only 5.6 makes me wonder how terrified I'd be doing the 1/2 dollar or the ear since they are 5.8!
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Yah, more like Texas....so I've heard.
The trippy part of the feather maw is you could put a couple sport routes back in there it's so wide. That is if you like smelling bird poop all the time.
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There's worse things......like cabbage.
Cool slot. I think some of those chimneys are the safest places in the Pinns.
Bridging, stemming, work it out.
Hell, you know......If there's more, I'd be stoked to groove on it.
;D
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Skullmeister, I didn't know ya was a pinns lover. ya got any pinns stories?
another sik mudder
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Hiya, Munge.
Not really, I've only climbed there a couple times, a long time ago.
Only got to the East side.....Tourist trap, Discovery Wall, Tiburcio's X. You know the deal, had fun, found some choss.
I'd go back, but I'd have to be in the area, already. Not prepped to road trip from Boise for it. ;)
Groove on! ;D
Oh, BTW guys....Texas flake chimney never gets THAT wide.
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A great old school route worthy of a repeat AND report. I'll do it again but next time with a bolt kit and make it a goal to replace a few of the time bombs.
The rack I'd roll with:
6 alpine draws
2 double slings
4 shoulder slings
6 non-lockers
#1 and #2 C4's or the like.
That's all!
Notice the empty side lot and loads of clothes.....34 degrees. It was 88 degrees when we topped out!!!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/762992397_HuZtV-L.jpg)
Approaching, not bad though we later got lost and did major bush whacking
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/762997354_b6hNx-L.jpg)
FINALLY, at the base!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763003865_PSwch-L.jpg)
LORD, look at the offwidth to the right of the start! Munge, get on 'er!!!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763002277_RktEL-L.jpg)
COOL pitch, 5.8 offwidth:
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763010310_udAGw-L.jpg)
F4 looking up the offwidth, my lead!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763011202_Etwii-L.jpg)
really neat lunch spot at the hanging gardens mid-route:
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763022792_RLFKq-L.jpg)
And another shot with F4 coming up:
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763023905_j2mGn-L.jpg)
That, in his hand, is a rock! Threats!!!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763029649_ifRbB-L.jpg)
F4, top of the climb, notice the familiar spot?
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/photos/763031439_AF2hf-L.jpg)
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Once you get your photos straightened out, I've got a question: Do you agree with the 2 out of 3 stars? And the 5.8?
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photos are straightened out!
yes to both grade and quality.
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photos are jingai'd for me, red x
Photo bucket bandwidth max?
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does the route go up the wide slot in the center of the 3rd picture?
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I'm getting blue question marks and no photos :-\
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works for me, using Firefox.
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(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/skullyambro/pokex.gif)
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Nice work skully
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does the route go up the wide slot in the center of the 3rd picture?
LORD no, its to the left one notch. That pict was JUST to show the mad potential!
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Hey what's up two of the pictures went away?!
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Brad, Yes the route does qualify for 2 stars, 3 in my book for adventure. For sure it's 5.8. Please promise to never do a topo for this route. Half the fun was figuring out where to go.
The bolts are in dire need of replacing.
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Hey what's up two of the pictures went away?!
Not sure, all coming up at work and home on PC and Mac with Firefox
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Brad, Yes the route does qualify for 2 stars, 3 in my book for adventure. For sure it's 5.8. Please promise to never do a topo for this route. Half the fun was figuring out where to go.
PS, Squiddo, do I need to host your pictures??
urrrrr, host this :ciappa:
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That's right I'm using a Mac. Explains everything. I need to switch to a PC.
:madman:
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I'M on a mac foolio
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"Half the fun was figuring out where to go."
Is the description in the book OK? I wouldn't topo it even if I could. And how could you topo a route that goes all over and around?
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"Half the fun was figuring out where to go."
Is the description in the book OK? I wouldn't topo it even if I could. And how could you topo a route that goes all over and around?
Your route descriptions are ok.
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Mittens and i did this yesterday and thought it was amazing. The description was right on, but next time I would just bring 4 screamers and no gear. We soloed everything but the big chimney pitch and the two water shoots above. I would recommend not replacing the bolts on this one. Big ASCA bolts would feel out of flavor up there, not to mention how interesting it would be to replace them from those stances. This route is basically a solo anyways.
Super classic! Props to the FA team for doing such an interesting and creative line.
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Even with new bolts a fall would be crazy in that chimney. I can really figure out how you would have to fall to be OK. Only bring people with long legs up into that bridging section.
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Jody Langford told me that when his dad read my description of the route, he said that he didn't recall placing any bolts at all in that chimney.
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While we were climbing, Mark and I raised the question of how many bolts were original on the route. It seemed like they were all of different origins. Maybe that is why there are no hangers on the bolts on the 5.8 pitch. Mittens and I are going to go chop it now.
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When I asked Jody whether the lack of memory meant that he DIDN'T place bolts on the first ascent, he said his dad wasn't sure. He also told me that his dad did the route several more times after doing the first ascent.
So, as with the Brower bolts on Condor Crag (did he or didn't he place those, and if so was it on the FA and was it before the bolts on Shiprock?), the world will never know...
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I think I have bird flu now.... :puke:
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I used to never wash my hands after climbing when I was younger. Nowadays, I see the 'white rock' i was grabbing all those times, was not fulgarites, but bird poop. yay!!!
I try to clean up after a day's climbing nowadays.
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Sweet and glad to see more ascents. I'd still appreciate a few bolt replacements- mainly in the chimney. Man- the bird poop at the base of it still haunts me.
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Mittens, I told you not to pick your nose. That is how all the bad stuff gets in. I made sure to do a heavy duty nasal irrigation when I got home, it cleans all the bad stuff out.
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Feather Canyon is the Camp 6 of bird world.