MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: MUCCI on February 08, 2010, 07:35:06 PM
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Took off this morning to hit the west side for some Rebolting. Lichen to Lead 5.6 on the Flumes was on the books for today. I made my way to the top of the formation, Rigged the rope to the only good tree on top and went over the edge to start spotting bolts.
Wait, what's this?
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/CAN.jpg)
Oh yeah! Could this can hold the secret to the route? I opened it and carefully unfolded the paper, Damn! The years did a number on the words, I could tell that there were 2 entries. The only words I could discerne were "Darr" "Two" and the #2. Bust! the pencils were from a golf course and the can.... well you guess?
I found the summit (before the 3rd class) anchors which were good/modern 3/8.
Left the first 2 lead bolts on P1, the anchor at P1 was modern.
Replaced the lead bolt and anchor bolts on P2 ( the anchor had a bolt smaller than 1/4")
Replaced the lead bolt on P3.
These are OLD hangers, this route could be the oldest on the formation. Also, the can was well to the right of the the summit anchor bolts, they could have belayed from a bush near the can?
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/HANGERS.jpg)
I bailed on this route after the 2nd pitch a while back, we put some runners on the old 1/4 inchers and gracefully lowered down. When popping these bolts out today, everyone of them snapped at the nut, with almost no effort! Truly scary bolts indeed.
Cheers!
Mucci
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One more down. Cool score on the can even though it did not reveal anything
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Darr means daring in Pinns-talk.
very daring route to the FA team! :)
nice job Mucci, much appreciated. It'll be cruiser sending that rig for me next time. I seem to recall being a wee bit headed out on the FOLLOW last time I got on it. :)
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Nice Mucci! Thank you for the fine work (and the archeological annotations!).
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Yeah, nice work. Your report about how easily the bolts sheared off tells me that I essentially soloed the route when I led it. Is it soloing if you think there is pro?
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Thanks all,
Brad- I distinctly remember clipping that pro bolt on P2, then climbing into and up that loose groove, all the while knowing if I fell I would definitely pull the pro bolt and probably rip the belay.
Now I know what would have happened.
Munge what say you? We got a bone to pick with this one!
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Is it soloing if you think there is pro?
I dunno, that's kind of like saying, "I won't get STDs if I *think* she's clean".
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^^ Mandatory if living in the midwest during your "Wonder Years"
Did you guys notice the Left and Right hanger cuts? Was this common? Most of the homemade hangers I have are Right facing.
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werd, I'm interested in getting back on that.
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That's what she said.
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^^^Whilst hooking at pinnacles.
I am the Soledaddy Pimp (TM). Thankfully I have a good team of hookers at the front line.
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Everyone could use a good team of "hookers", eh, Mucci? ;D
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Skullbro- This forum is now complete with you high in the ranks!
A big EC Salute to you, from behind the computer holding a SNPA.
Cheers,
Mucci
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Right on, Mucci. ;D
'Gracias.