MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: The Big on March 20, 2006, 09:04:49 AM
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From the base of the chimney that is down and left of Gary and Phylis's Headwall climb out left from the tree. Then up, up and away.
Drop Zone 5.7 - mudworm Xi, Erik Mr Mud, Robert Behrens. 7x
mudworm put in her first two bolts. The second one from stance.
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Oopps dam that title should read Machete. Bet I got your attention though.
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Balconies? I wish. At least we would have been in the sun since the morning.
The route is on Machete.
And Rob and Erik B also improved some other route(s) there. I'm not sure about the details.
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Guess my sore wrist really slowed down my typing.
Oh here is a hearty "THANK YOU!" to all you who have placed bolts before. THANK YOU!
I now have a new appreciation to what "placing bolts from stance" means. Insane is the word.
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words of warning, still some looseness on it, but nice and long. Not a sport climb, but you probably won't die on it either.
There are NEW anchors placed by Bruce H (ASCA stamped) at the base of these two climbs (Drop Zone and Redline). Mr Mud thinks the tree is fine. I'm not opposed to the anchors and chains.
bolt added to Redline to reduce total runout distance (FA party, approved)
2nd bolt on Gary and Phyllis Headwall replaced with 3/8" by 3" Rawl/Powers expansion bolt, with great effort I might add by myself and F4?. Old bolt was actually pretty good for sticking out of the rock about 1/4", old hanger was suspect aluminum and was a spinner at a tricky clip.
NEVER place 3/8 compression bolts. As Greg Barnes has noted before, it often results in cratering around the hole and is difficult to replace over time.
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where was the bolt placed on redline? I dont recall giving my ok, unless it was that last 150 foot runout.
please elaborate on the name drop zone? hopefully the first bolt will allow a tiney ankle biter on the deck for full effect.
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Replacing the 2nd bolt helped the Gary and Phyllis route, the clip was pretty darn tricky since you had to pull the right draw with a narrow gate. If you didn't, you wouldn't make the clip.
The remaining bolts are tiny 1/4ers (they have a hex head) & the top anchors need some work (chains to be added). All in all it's a great route and the runout to the anchors is not that bad.
I'll replace the top anchors next time and add some chains.
Next Saturday??
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please elaborate on the name drop zone? hopefully the first bolt will allow a tiney ankle biter on the deck for full effect.
I didn't come up with the name, but thought the name was appropriate. Your belayer is in your (and Redline's) drop zone after you clip the last bolt.
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worm, there might be a little more the name... ask munge...
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worm, there might be a little more the name... ask munge...
I'd feel really poopy about giving up your secrets my friend.
:lol: :lol:
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where was the bolt placed on redline? I dont recall giving my ok, unless it was that last 150 foot runout.
It's about 10-13' above the last bolt, right before the lip just before where it eases back to easy 5th class. I wanted it higher, but an upper bolt would be mostly for showing what direction the climber should go to find the anchor. Apparently it's so well camou'd that Mudworm couldn't find it.
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And what is up with the top anchors for Redline, Fullthrottle & Drop Zone? Placed back in a dish. I scrambled around up there for 10 min. Were you guys on crack when you placed the anchors? :roll:
Any self respecting sport route establisher would place the anchors to where they would be seen. :roll:
At least one bolt would give one a general sense of direction to go.
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factor, maybe you should stick to castle rock, either that or go to europe where they paint arrows on the rock to help climbers find their way.
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... Any self respecting sport route establisher would place the anchors to where they would be seen. :roll: ...
Munge said those were not sport climbs.
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also, if you decide drop zone isnt a good name, let me throw "Sal's Monsterous Steamer" in the hat.
BTW, what ever happened to that sucker?!?!?!
Mr Mud?????
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I didn't have anything to do with that shit.
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mysterious for SURE
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Apparently it's so well camou'd that Mudworm couldn't find it.
Why do we camo hangers that can't be seen by anybody but climbers anyway?
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well, on the camou thing, this is on Machete facing toward the trail.
I figure if one can see the old tat slings, then anything metal will be visible too, if the sun hits it.
So, in my goal to gridbolt machete, i'm being ethically pure in camo'ing.
:lol: :lol:
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Hey Cock,
I'll stick with routes at the Pinnacles. But speaking of climbing in europe...isn't Mr Mud heading there soon? Do you think he'll catch the sport climbing fever?? :lol:
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Yep got the tickets will be flying out the end of April. And, no I will not be converting anytime soon so keep your hands off both of my #5 Camalots.
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Factor4...the new 2nd bolt on the Gary and Phyllis route was a joy to clip. I have to admit though that I chuckled a bit at the hex head metric "keychain" bolts above. They might slow you down a bit but.....that's about it.
Good stuff
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Glad to heard you climbed there yesterday. Yah, that new hanger bolt will make the clip easier. The keychain hangers are next on the list.
Did you do the other routes there as well?
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Nope I sure didn't but plan on going back. I wanted to go down to the 5.7 but that "down climb" chimney....wee sketch for my taste.
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Yah, it's best to rap off of the tree.
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Yep....I gotta say though that the new routes only help to solidify my thoughts that the West side rivals anything on the East. It's not just the climbing but also factors such as remoteness, less crowds, more rugged.
Oh yeah, and since the brewpub is now gone...even more so. Dropped into the Chalone vinyards and managed to do a tasting..walking out poorer and with vine bottles for future indulgence.
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Those routes along with the ones one the flumes (Rebecca Sailing) can make for a great day of climbing. I'd start at the flumes to get the am sun and move over. That is unless you want the shade.
How much was the tasting? Free? You and Fish are too civilized, so much for hole in the wall mexican food.
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Yep..went to the flume afterwards....good fun.
Chalone was $5 but they waived it with a purchase. They also let us finish the Pacifico in their parking lot:-)
Speaking of civilized....I checked out the B&B Inn at the Pinnacles and got the tour. Damn nice. BBQ's on each deck and views of the Pinnacles.
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Squiddo, I thot I knew who you were, spill the beans, or someone pm me.
I'm so confused with everyone actually liking Pinnacles these days.
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lol..Pinnacles is a pile...it's just: 1) the closest pile around and 2) I enjoy the West side better than the East...though both have enjoyable stuff.
I'm Bratton's old neighbor..Monta Visa Class of '89.
Cheers,
Marc
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Marc, that's just crazy talk; gorgeous place, no one around, adventure to be had.
madness I tell you
cheers,
Rob
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I know....imagine if the place was limestone....it's be swarming with Frogs!!!! Maybe they'd even bolt it using those great annodized colored hangers which gained some popularity in the late 80's! Think about it...I hear Bratton now, "yeaaaah I could bolt a rainbow route."
Love it!
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Rainbow route??? Remember I'm getting married, no rainbows for me.
Munge, I think people have always loved the Pinnacles and now they have a place to express... wait a minute, who am I fooling, the rock is loose, it's hot, the ticks are huge and your to lazy to keep driving for 2hrs more to the valley.
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WHO IS TOO LAZY?!?!?!
I drove with Feral on the way up on Saturday morning into a rain storm to the Valley.
I drove back with the Uber.
As far as I can tell, that means I'm hard core. yo!
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Munge,
don't take it personally...Brattons just bitter he's tasting cake for his wedding and can't decide between the Chocolate Ganache or the Powerbars.
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I recommend the chocolate kudos bars for the wedding.