MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Gomez13 on October 09, 2010, 08:25:50 AM
-
I'm doing the Feather Canyon route next weekend and was looking for some beta. I have read the route discription in both guidebooks and was wondering if there was any other info I should know. Thanks!
-
Great route and unique for the Pinns. Has a Sierra feel to it. Expect some trickery if you want 2 point anchors on several pitches though they are casual. The chimney pitch has some of the worst bolts i've ever seen (or clipped). Bring a #2 cam to protect the section past the bridging past the baaaad bolts.
-
HIke up to the OW's then go left
-
The guidebook has a pretty thorough description, photocopy that page. Also, around two years ago John Knight did the route and posted up. Here's a link to his Pinnacles/High Peaks comments on Mountain Project (this has in it a link to his Feather Canyon comments): http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/sf_bay_area/pinnacles_national_monument/106245273 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/sf_bay_area/pinnacles_national_monument/106245273)
-
bring doubles to 6'. the route eats cams. You should have seen squiddo....all that gear.
Seriously, #2 cam , slings & six pack of beer. The views are wonderful.
the approach is kinda odd, then again my partner has 0 sense of direction. Take a copy of pg 237 of the guide book.
Have fun.
-
A few pictures.....
Whew, I had forgotten that we had a few pictures showing the 4th class approach. Aim for straight above his head (2nd pic).
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5102/762003651_UP6Vd-L.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5100/762008670_6qYdw-XL.jpg)
see pro to 6' is needed!
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5106/762006982_xMRjw-M-1.jpg)
Squiddo at the 1st bolt...heading to the next & my masterfull #2 Camalot placement.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5109/762006414_NPvaB-XL-1.jpg)
Or you can ignore all the above information and just wander around up there till you find it. Add to the adventure.
-
In the top photo does it go up the right side of the formation or the left?
I need to climb this thing this year.
-
$5 please
-
DIE
-
mud, let's roll. I still need to do this one too. rebolt as we go?
-
sounds like as good a plan as any.
-
mud, let's roll. I still need to do this one too. rebolt as we go?
good on you....fixing "some" of the bolt was on my short list as well.
-
Me tooo! I'll bring the Beer.
Who else is going to lead that chasm?
The suckie part of replacing the bolts is I don't think you can re-use the holes. Plus getting the old sleeves out might be a PITA.
Nothing a few beers can't help.
-
Me tooo! I'll bring the Beer.
Who else is going to lead that chasm?
The suckie part of replacing the bolts is I don't think you can re-use the holes. Plus getting the old sleeves out might be a PITA.
Nothing a few beers can't help.
That cavern would make a sweet man cave.
-
sign me up.
I'll lead and drink beer.
-
I say replace 2x bolts in the chasm and enjoy the rest of the route.
I must say I have a vision of showing up with a group for a climb like this + beer. All having a few beers while packing. And a few more.....never getting to the base of the route let alone up it.
Kinda sounds like Mr Mud's bachlor party, except he did climb (smart ones hung out in the shade drinking)...
-
Sign me up.
There shall be slander spewed in the man cave.
Whoooooop, PINNACLZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!!
Mucci
-
Sign me up.
There shall be slander spewed in the man cave.
Whoooooop, PINNACLZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!!
Mucci
ha ha haaaaa
-
How long of a rope does Feather Canyon need, assuming we're tied in for all the 5th class sections? Should I drag my 70m up there, or can I get away with just my 30m?
-
It's been awhile since I have done it but 30 might not work on the chimney pitch (3rd).
-
Wow, this thread was pulled up from 12 years ago. Very nice
-
Thanks Noal. I'll probably just foist it off on one of my buddies with the excuse I'm carrying the hardware. ;D
And while I'm here pestering people for beta, MP says to approach from the west side, but it looks like Bear Gulch parking up Condor Gulch Trail is much shorter with less elevation gain. Is there something I'm missing, or is MP wrong?
-
I’ve only done it from the East. That said, the route does end high enough on the HP trail you could start from the West.
Have fun.
-
Do it from the East. This way you can scope out where the start of the route is from a far away. Stash your packs when you leave the Condor Gulch trail.
Also if you come from the West you have to hike all the way up to the High Peaks and up the Tunnel switchbacks. Then you have to scramble down the gully and around the base, climb the route, and hike back out the whole trail. It's a lot more hiking.
I have a question for Brad. Feather Canyon is not in the Rubine guide. Prior to the 2007 guidebook was it an unreported route?
-
I have a question for Brad. Feather Canyon is not in the Rubine guide. Prior to the 2007 guidebook was it an unreported route?
Feather Canyon is in the Richards guidebook. Published November 1974.
-
East side
Go light, small packs to carry on the route or none.
Enjoy the route.
Take a pause on the 1st pitch, the 1st bolt was added after the route was established....different skills from different times.
-
Feather Canyon is in the Richards guidebook. Published November 1974.
Wonder why Rubine did not put it in the guide?
-
Wonder why Rubine did not put it in the guide?
Not sure. Gagner's has it and he left lots of stuff out.
-
Feather Canyon is in Rubine’s book. He just put it in a weird location. I can look it up after I get home. But from memory he put it in with Condor Gulch routes?
-
If I remember correctly he also gave it one star?
-
Thanks again.
Also if you come from the West you have to hike all the way up to the High Peaks and up the Tunnel switchbacks. Then you have to scramble down the gully and around the base, climb the route, and hike back out the whole trail. It's a lot more hiking.
Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking and why I was confused that they posted the approach that way..
-
Yep, page 196 of the 1995 Rubine guidebook. And since he calls the route "H&L Dome - Feather Canyon" it's not where one would expect it in the index.
But nope, my memory was wrong as to where he put it. It's in with other High Peaks stuff. And he gave it no stars. None.
I wonder how many times he did the route ;D
-
And Shane, I can't find your email address although I swear I've got it somewhere. If you'll email me I'll send you back the description of Feather Canyon from the new guidebook text.
Email me at mtnyoung at gee mail dot com.
-
I didn't look at Rubine's book.
-
Guidebook writers, at times, might be desperate enough to sacrifice notes when Mother Nature bellows, creating gaps in the record. Really good guidebook writers always carry a fixed pin.
-
I found Feather Canyon in my 2nd edition Rubine guide after all. It is listed under High Peaks as a route on H&L. It is not listed in the index or the route list of all the 5.8s in the back of the book. He gives it no stars.
It is also described as a 6 pitch route. 1st pitch is the big chimney with the chockstone. All the stuff before that is described as "the approach chimney" I guess we share the same view as what constitutes a pitch. ;D
-
Well, we started too late, moved too slowly and brought too much stuff, so we only made it to the top of pitch 3. But everyone had fun and made it out safely, so it was a successful day. We all got to climb the awesome p3 slot canyon, and rapping back down into it was a cool, novel experience. We're planning on going back better informed and better equipped in late spring. I wouldn't have minded having a #2 C4 to protect the upper moves of the p1 chimney, though that would have occupied a key hand pocket, maybe making it a little harder. I was also suffering from low mojo yesterday, for unclear reasons, so next time I'm there I'll probably be having a better day and might float up it without feeling the need for the pro.
-
I've never seen Feather Canyon and H and L Dome NOT close for raptor nesting. Closures kick in in mid January.
I don't think you'll be able to get on it in late spring.
-
Forgot about that detail. Looks like it'll be near the top of the list for fall '23 objectives.
-
P3, you had done the chute after the chimney?
It’s after the chute it climbs fast, unless you bring beer and enjoy the views.
Yes, a #2 Camelot on the 2nd pitch does help calm the nerves.
-
We made it on top of the giant chockstone. Second roped pitch, pitch 3 in the guidebook. But is was nearly 4:00 by the time all four of us were up there, then we spent too long unsuccessfully trying to haul our gear up to us. We all had headlamps, but decided we'd rather save the full climb for a day we were moving lighter and faster and go get bbq instead.
-
Bummer!
Clinks fault!
After the next water chute it’s pretty casual.
Get on it again and enjoy.
Note my gear selection:
4-6 runners
4-6 beers
1x 2czmalot
-
Nope