MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: rhyang on December 26, 2010, 01:17:24 PM
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Forecast is for a few good days, no rain until Tuesday night. Usual suspects out of town. Willing to lead 5.8-5.9, follow harder. Have rack, rope, can carpool from the south bay. PM or email if interested.
-Rob
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PM sent
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Tempting...I'll bring James.
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Got some fun climbing in today before the rain (thank you, national weather service :) )
Squiddo warming up on First Sister - Lost Sister (5.7)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5302121304_fd144a586f_b.jpg)
Gertie's Pinnacle and the Hatchet
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5301525661_ec5c1e3b79_b.jpg)
Gertie's - SW Face Right (5.8 ) -- my turn.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5302122924_b8f78256b6_b.jpg)
(also did the 7 and 10a next to it, err maybe 10b now that I pulled a hold off ;D )
Tiburcio's X and Bear Gulch Reservoir
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5302121674_60b588489f_b.jpg)
Finished out the day on Coyote Ugly (5.9) -- my first time leading it !
This hardened mud stuff is growing on me .. full set here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhyang/sets/72157625695645284/).
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Squiddo, all black os so 90's
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Squiddo, all black os so 90's
Sorry E, were you saying something? I couldn't tell what with the iPad spelling error and all.......
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Just saying your fashion sense of all black is a bit out dated.
80s would be neon pants.....so it must 90s ala grunge.
Yeah, you are jealous of my Ipad.
Admit it!
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Rob-
thanks again and a great day!
Thanks for not busting off a hold!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles-National-Monument/Pinnacles/IMG0013/1140672102_saoT4-M.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles-National-Monument/Pinnacles/IMG0009/1140669733_cxkKz-M.jpg)
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You guys didn't do Heaven's Gate?
That's the climb to do over there. Sweet Arete.
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Isn't Heavens Gate in Condor Gulch?
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Nope, you be on crack. It's on one of the sisters...far right.
Now if we had a route DB on the forum.... ;D ;D
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I'm curious about Condor Crag -- Condor Condiment (5.8 ) has a star in the guidebook. North face, so probably better in the springtime after a dry spell. Any pics or beta ? (I seem to remember a party having an epic on it last year)
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It is worth spending some time on the Condor Crags. Good this time of year to, just need a week or so of good weather for it to warm up and dry out a bit. This has been a wet one.
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Mr Mud is getting forgetfull.....Condor Condiment is north facing..i.e. damn friking cold with no direct sun (done a few shadded routes in the winter and have learned).
Some parts are easy, yet heady. Jack did a wonderful job establishing the route. But take caution when his name is on a route. The 10a section was fun to watch Mr Mud mantle onto a load stone to clip the bolt (typical Jack style). After that it was pull over the lip into sunshine and run it to the belay.
I can dig up my pictures of Condiment.
I like St. Valintines M.
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cool, might check this out next week.
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It is north facing but with a few days of sun in a row it drys out a bit and isn't to bad. Would not want to be on it, or do the approach, if it has not had time to dry out.
yes, post the pics
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yeah- not perhaps that one.....I like sun
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We have to be easy on Mr Mud, it was a few years ago (October maybe), and he has since warmed up.
Who else can make Astroman seem like it's 5.7.... ;D
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Here are a few of the condor climb (2nd pitch)
2nd pitch that was 5.6 low with natural gear (which we didn't have) and JackH true 5.8
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010061/44862297_v65hY-M.jpg)
The Feral Rat cleaning the 5.8 part. He had led the 1st pitch. While leading the 5.8 part, I blew a foot hold, started to fall, but rebalanced onto the other foot. Good thing because I was yelling "falling", but the Rat didn't hear me or else I would have been ripped off.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010066/44862295_QvxWG-M.jpg)
Famous author on the 2nd pitch. Take note, he was the wise one wearing a hat, gloves and a thong (just kidding).
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010078/44862299_DuW4J-M.jpg)
Upper part, very cool position....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010096/44862306_wt3BS-M.jpg)
I will search my achives for more.
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nice pics,
Thank
you
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Wow, I've got a lot more white in my beard now. When did we do that route, five years ago?
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Gulp, yes it was nov of 2005.
Hard to believe it was 5 years ago. So much has changed.
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Gulp, yes it was nov of 2005.
Hard to believe it was 5 years ago. So much has changed.
Yep the knees creak more
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Hmm, my pictures indicate that Brad led the Holmgren 10a variation. No pictures as I was likely belaying.
Few More
Feral on the 2nd pitch getting to the 5.8 section. You can see our packs at the bottom..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010063/1142227255_je8ge-M.jpg)
Feral topping out on the 10a variation....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010080/1142231527_amco6-XL.jpg)
Styling the 10a moves...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010082/1142231194_4jmRf-XL.jpg)
View for the day...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Other/Condor04/P1010104/44862304_Sd2wE-L.jpg)
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Nice pix!
is that goat rock in the last pic?
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I think that last photo is Tuff and H&L Dome, from the north.
And Factor, I have no problem with the "no photos because I was belaying" part ;)
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What bugs me is I can't remember which year we did the route. I think it was in '04 and not '05.
If I was belaying, what was feral doing? Must have been shivering.
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I do not remember that route being all that cold. Cool yes but not so bad.
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I do not remember that route being all that cold. Cool yes but not so bad.
F4 is part woman
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I do not remember that route being all that cold. Cool yes but not so bad.
You have bad memory. If it wasn't cold, why was Brad bundled up. And he is used to the cold!
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You have bad memory. If it wasn't cold, why was Brad bundled up. And he is used to the cold!
Part woman? :-)
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Squiddo can't call anyone "part woman" until he's led 5.10 offwidth. And, if he's already led 5.10 offwidth, he can't call anyone a woman until he's led one while naked.
It was butt cold that day.
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I rest my case. It a cold route, unless you are leading.
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Thanks for the pics !
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How about the admin create a route folder/stickie sso folks can post up pictures of routes.
;D
Oh and where is munge?
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Saw him Thursday afternoon at Indian Cove in Josh. Not sure when he is coming home.
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Why would he be in Josh? Thought he was a Alabama hills guy.
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Would this be different than the pics thread?
How about the admin create a route folder/stickie sso folks can post up pictures of routes.
;D
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Yes cuz it would be by route. People could then post beta.
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munge has left the building
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How was double cross with the new bolts?
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solid, a real improvement to be sure.
heh
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With your D5 hammer(s).
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I was telling a friend about following the 10a route on Gertie's Pinnacle and how I weighted a hold that blew and sent me flying.
Squiddo yells down asking if I'm ok or need to be lowered. "It's OK, I just blew a hold."
"You gonna buy that ?"
"What ??"
"You break it, you buy it !"
;D
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Squiddo has good comedic reflexes. ;D
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HA HA
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Nice pics of Condor Condiment! Jack and I were quite pleased with this baby. The original 5.7 finish to the 3rd pitch was a true horror. We went back and put up the 10a later. That's a much saner way to go. I led pitches one and four. Pitch two, the crux, was all Jack. In subsequent leads I never did find all the gear placements he did.
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Pitch two, the crux, was all Jack. In subsequent leads I never did find all the gear placements he did.
Me too. I was suprised how creative he must have been.
The 10a is a saner variation??? Jeepers! The thought of him going 1 more move to place the bolt.....
The bolts need to be replaced on this baby and more traffic.
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Kind of a warm day, but I went back and did Condor Condiment today. What a fun route ! The approach was a bushwhack though. Some pics :
p1
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6048/6297601040_7a38eb1e73_z.jpg)
p2
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/6297071923_2a06b7a472_z.jpg)
p3
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6297603476_c6d1d62353_z.jpg)
p4 - did some kinda exposed traverse/downclimb thing
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6297075307_ee5eb94f63_z.jpg)
Wandered around looking for the Fault Zone, then realized it was right under our noses. The 5.8 hand crack was delicious -
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/6297609164_57ffcb421b_z.jpg)
Awesome day !
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nice Rob. yowza that p4 traverse thing doesn't ring a bell at all.
what kind of gear on p3 did you end up using?
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Looks like a good day. That is a surprisingly good route.
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both are fun routes, good on ya...
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The traverse pitch is really good.
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The traverse pitch is really good.
is that the variation to the final headwall? I need to get on that and with all the gear!
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Nope the pitch leading up to that pitch.
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I thought the traverse on p2 was really good -- thrilling exposure. Partner placed some cams (including the #4) and a tricam (his first ever, yahoo).
I placed a cam or two on p3, but otherwise clipped bolts. Think I did the 10a variation, but it didn't feel 10a to me, so I either did it wrong, or all the bouldering at the gym has been paying off ;D
The traverse on the last pitch was funky, not quite sure we did it the way the FA-ists did, but hey it was fun.
Made the mistake of rapping from the summit all the way down to the chockstone .. the rope wouldn't pull from there. My partner soloed up the chimney on the left to the other rap station near the tree and managed to free it. A lot of friction going over that edge.