MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on February 03, 2011, 08:55:06 PM
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Just had another batch scanned. These are from 1998 and 1999, which really isn't so long ago. So, I'll post very few of this group of 300. Many of the group are from Pinns, which is why I'm putting the thread in this part of the forum. I'll do the posts over the next couple weeks, as time allows me to get the jpegs into my computer.
This first one was taken by Mungeclimber and is kinda unique (headless climber and all). Leading Split Decision in the Owens River Gorge, October, 1998:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/5415031384_c73e3c502b_b.jpg)
Leading Cemetery Gates, December 1998:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5414587459_3e3b4df10a_b.jpg)
On Liebacker's Lullabye, December 1998:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5415205726_8c34125c6a_b.jpg)
Leading Crack Climber's Concerto in my ultra-hip red corduroy pants, December 1998:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5415200988_ec57d9d13a_b.jpg)
On top on Condor Crags with my friend Hope Wolf, December 1998:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5414590069_c038718f0d_b.jpg)
Katie at age 3, in Ryan Campground at Joshua Tree, January 1999:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/5414591999_e36e622c52_b.jpg)
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Nice pics!
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Wow!
Retro!
Kaukulators, bellbottoms, bandana.
WHOA!!!!!
Nice pics Brad
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You know Mucci, most of what you listed is easy to see and recognize. But to know that the shoes are Kaukulators? That's impressive.
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I took that pic?
I'm a damn good photog
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Lol, Munge!
Great pics, Brad. LOVE the red pants. 8)
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June, 1999 was 11 weeks after I spent a week in the hospital with a separated pelvis and other injuries. I was able to walk again, so when Harden suggested that we bag two California 14,000 foot peaks, I agreed.
Mounts Williamson and Tyndall are grouped together, north of Whitney and Russell. We did class three routes on each. The approach, via Shepherd Pass, is one of the most grueling of the east side passes (Dave's longest time climbing partner is Bart. Bart and his wife Loretta once did Shepherd Pass together. Loretta NEVER swears. Years later, in a conversation with Dave and Bart, she referred to Shepherd as "that f#cking pass.").
The route up Tyndall follows the thin, class three rib seen on the left flank of the peak in this photo:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5415539929_83f4666259_b.jpg)
The views from on high there extend out to the Owens Valley, 10,000 feet below:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5416150504_4d4f8c5eb5_b.jpg)
The summit block on Tyndall is sharp, and, on the back side, very exposed. Here' the mundane shot of me on that block:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5415535919_f77550179c_b.jpg)
Dave is much better at hamming it up:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5415534627_6f254e0c91_b.jpg)
That's all that's worth posting of the first 120 of 300 newly scanned slides.
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Those red cords and pink, I mean salmon, shirt bring a whole new meaning to cool!
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Nice Brad! I did the same combo of Tyndall and Williamson back in May 2004. The Sierra Crest Rib on Tyndall was so much fun. There was a lot more snow when I was up there. I was able to glissade almost all the way down Tyndall, but Williamson was a different story with the snow, and was a full value solo affair for me. Gotta love the view up there, and that pass makes it so much more worth it when you finally get there. Love the pants, are those still in the rotation?
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Isn't Williamson open year round now? I've always wanted to bag that one.
Squiddo???
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"Love the pants, are those still in the rotation?"
I wish. But, no, YOSAR cut them off of me in the aftermath of the March, 1999 splat I described above (week in the hospital). And, believe me, I wasn't in a position to argue with them at the time.
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I think I took that pic of you on Cemetary gates too, but only by inference not direct recollection. I have a vague recollection that I did a TR burn on that when you wanted to climb it. Ring a bell?
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No, not that photo of Cemetery Gates. That photo was taken by John Williams while his (then) girlfriend Hope was belaying me. My notes show me redpointing the route the week after the photo was taken, so the lead shown in the photo must have included a taint of some sort. I remember it being kinda pumpy, maybe I hung?
Maybe you were with DES and I the day I went back? But I would have put your name in my notes if that were so.
I took a very nice photo of Hope at the base of Cemetery Gates when we were done; one of my favorites of her (it's part of what I just had scanned):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/5415199792_aea3123205_b.jpg)
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In June 1999, John Williams and I drove over to Granite Basin for the day. We climbed a route called All Along the Watchtower (5.10a, 3 pitches). The route is quality, although not as well known or traveled as Hairraiser Buttress, which is to its left. We got some great exposure:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5417129955_65b0cf0973_b.jpg)
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Brad, was I with you on that Liebacker's Lullaby trip? Seems so familiar....
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Poppy, yes, you and Harden. You've got a good memory. I think you and I had climbed together once before then in Joshua Tree. But wasn't that your first ever trip to Pinns?
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Well, I have notes in my guide from 1996, so I think it was my first time camping at pinns. It was also my first time nearly freezing to death at Pinns (there have been several other times since). 17 degrees that night in the campground.
Good times.
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In June 1999, John Williams and I drove over to Granite Basin for the day. We climbed a route called All Along the Watchtower (5.10a, 3 pitches). The route is quality, although not as well known or traveled as Hairraiser Buttress, which is to its left. We got some great exposure:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5417129955_65b0cf0973_b.jpg)
Nice! I was looking at that line this past summer from the base. HR Buttress is a fun route and there seem to be many other new routes.
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Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people) in the Owens River Gorge one day, camping at Granite Basin, and then climbing there the next day (with not a soul in sight).
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Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people) in the Owens River Gorge one day, camping at Granite Basin, and then climbing there the next day (with not a soul in sight).
yep, done both. Great spot indeed. BTW, HR Buttress..scared the crap out of me getting to that first bolt. That was a heads up lead made even more so by the fact that over half the bolts were added after the FA. We ran into Vern Clevenger a few days later at a Mammoth Art show (major photog which you know). His reaction to our appreciation for his bold routes being enjoyable was comical. He tried telling us he didn't climb anymore, "because the kids these days are doing crazy things". Struck me as the pot calling the kettle black.
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Yeah, hair raising. I led all three pitches when they were still rusty old quarter inch bolts (three bolts each on the two, full rope length, first pitches).
Truly a case of cursing the rusty old bolts while wishing like hell that there were more of them!
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Yeah, hair raising. I led all three pitches when they were still rusty old quarter inch bolts (three bolts each on the two, full rope length, first pitches).
Truly a case of cursing the rusty old bolts while wishing like hell that there were more of them!
Well its well known that you have eggs of stone. Mine are more Styrofoam. Loved it but the second pitch now has a contrived line of confusing bolts on an independent line.
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I have to disagree with the this.
A great weekend does not involve this.
Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people) in the Owens River Gorge one day,
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Obviously Dennis is right. This is what I said (that he disagrees with): "Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people) in the Owens River Gorge one day"
To make it correct it would have to read like this: "Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people INCLUDING DENNIS) in the Owens River Gorge one day."
I stand corrected.
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DIE
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To make it correct it would have to read like this: "Squiddo: A great weekend consists of sport climbing (with tons and tons of people INCLUDING DENNIS) in the Owens River Gorge one day."
you forgot Dennis with tights, since it is the gorge and he would be sport climbing.
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Mud, you must have been busy at work. It took you forever to post my well earned "DIE." About time you got to it.
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Yep, busy. Hopefully hand off tomorrow.
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Did you find your protege?
The tights and sport climbing didn't even get a die
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Was that busy.
How about
DIE
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There are quite a few good photos from the next set. These are from what was probably the single best, most productive High Sierra climbing trip I've ever done. In July, 1999, Jim Lundeen and I went into the Palisades from the east. We took one day to do the approach and one to hike out. In four climbing days we did four Sierra Nevada Classics: 1. Mount Winchell's East Ridge, 2. The Swiss Arete on Mount Sill, 3. The V-Notch Couloir, 4. The U-Notch Couloir.
Jim is one of the great climbing partners, strong and fun to hang with. At the time he was very into photography.
This is on the summit of Mount Winchell, looking north toward Mount Aggaziz and Bishop Pass:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/5432787180_f9794e92b4_b.jpg)
This is me with my old friend Squamish Chief, who came with us on this trip. A few of you knew him in his prime (Munge, Mud). In the background is the beautiful Sam Mack Meadow, where we spent our first night (I spent another few nights here, years later, with Jim McC, when he and I did Starlight and Thunderbolt):
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5432786886_682f79825c_b.jpg)
Of course, Chief carried his own weight:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5432787956_84390bdf5c_b.jpg)
We finished Winchell early enough in the day that we had time to move camp from Sam Mack up to the Palisade Glacier:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/5432818964_e41f9f2141_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5432821958_9743a6c5f4_b.jpg)
The camp at the foot of the Palisade Glacier is almost magical in its beauty. The Palisades are to the west and the whole Second/Third Lake basin and Temple Crag are to the east. Jim took some nice photos in camp:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5432809756_a8e9d7249f_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5432809402_9048f3f0e7_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/5432184287_5eb2ebcc9d_b.jpg)
The next morning we got up early for the most difficult of these routes, the V-Notch. We moved fast back then, though, and did the climb, summited Polemonium Peak and got back to camp by early afternoon (that's another great thing about Jim, he can also haul buns in the back country). This is Jim leading across the bergschrund:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5432822498_e037ba90a7_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5432207797_656ac126a9_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5432822284_1a60180126_b.jpg)
We got to the V-Notch when it was in good shape. Counting the 'schrund we did six pitches of blue, water ice:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5432183665_2f5b075ae0_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/5432183355_6c0d189861_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5432212229_cc93a00d46_b.jpg)
The ice climbing on the V-Notch ends at the Palisade Crest. A few hundred feet of traversing that crest leads to a short section of technical rock to the summit of Polemonium Peak (one of California's 14,000 foot peaks). Here I am on the summit of that peak:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5432826338_6c14df435a_b.jpg)
By the way, Polemonium Peak is named after Polemonium, more commonly called "Sky Pilot," a fabulous flower that grows in the Sierra Nevada above 12,000 feet. It is plenty beautiful to the eye, but the subtle, sweet fragrance is absolutely not to be missed:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/5432294063_4e5695b98f_b.jpg)
Next up, two more Sierra classics and a pretty hike out.
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Sweet pics.
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Man keep em coming Brad, gotta dig the high sierra.
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Word. These are good, man. 8) 8) 8)
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Here's a photo of both the U-Notch and the V-Notch from near where we camped:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/5432359623_5469964959_b.jpg)
We did the Swiss Arete the third climbing day. This has a fair amount of fifth class, up to 5.6, but mostly much easier. It leads straight to the summit of Mount Sill, another 14,000 foot peak:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5432824606_9c4df71b47_b.jpg)
On the summit:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5432201881_714cd150b5_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5432202169_2dab961868_b.jpg)
On the fourth day we did the U-Notch, which we found in great condition; it was perfect styrofoam snow. We climbed to the notch itself unroped, then switched to climbing shoes and summitted North Pal:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5432204825_58a13e267a_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/5432215213_4ea26f077a_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/5432813960_dede206339_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/5432814210_19ca633403_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5432215477_44aaee6f8c_b.jpg)
On the summit of North Pal (Mount Sill and the Swiss Arete are obvious in the background):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/5432815002_d22d7731c1_b.jpg)
On the way down occurred one of the few truly intuitive moments of my life. I believe in intuition, but I think my brain works on a nearly empiric basis, and that I as a person don't have much of it. But I did on the way down from the U-Notch.
On the ascent we'd crossed a huge bergschrund on a narrow snow bridge to get to the main couloir. It was morning when we did this, and when we tested the bridge it was rock solid frozen; way more bridge than we needed to get across the gap. Then, as I said, we hiked up perfect styrofoam snow in our boots and crampons. But we brought ropes. We thought we might want them for the Norman Clyde "fourth class" rock above (we did). We also used them to rappel the bottom parts of the rock section on the way down. After finishing the rock rappels we started walking down the softer, afternoon snow in the couloir. This was very easy walking, and after several hundred feet of descent we reached the snow bridge.
Then my intuition kicked in. The bridge looked fine. The 'schrund still plunged down out of sight, but the snow bridge was there and looked as it had in the morning. Jim was in the lead. As he plunge stepped toward the bridge it hit me that we had to use the ropes. Had to. I told Jim this. He seemed surprised by my concern, but quickly agreed when I asked him to wait so I could set up a rappel. Once the ropes were set Jim started across the bridge. He easily walked out to and past the middle of the bridge. Then, "whoosh," most of the bridge collapsed and Jim fell with it. But he fell only a few feet, onto his rap ropes. He was able to quickly lower to a thin part of the 'schrund and scramble up and out the other side onto the main glacier (we had crampons on). I followed him using the ropes. I'm not sure what would have happened if Jim had plunged into the bergschrund. I know it wouldn't have been good. I also know that I listened to the voice, I spoke up, and we both walked back to camp.
This is me just after the rappels:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1440/5432216007_cb63e67d68_b.jpg)
Sunset over the Palisades:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5432202455_2b4c6e22a2_b.jpg)
We hiked out the next day, tired and satisfied:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/5432817968_d64704eaea_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5432818636_3ee2a15421_b.jpg)
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good story and pics!
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In August, 1999, Jim and I went in to Iceberg Lake to do Whitney's East Buttress and a route on Mount Russell. Eventually, because of the weather, we settled for the East Ridge of Russell ("settled," for the most exposed class three I've ever been on).
The long trudge up North Fork Lone Pine creek:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5433742706_83391c9824_b.jpg)
High up on the East Buttress:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5433130475_5ca5c3f00a_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5433748688_7a1fdd3cc3_b.jpg)
On the summit:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5433743588_4cfa7b3e3b_b.jpg)
More Polemonium:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5171/5433744270_3120182e7f_b.jpg)
Alpine Gold is another flower native to high in the Sierra. But it looks like dandelions and has no real smell. It's nice, but it isn't "Sky Pilot."
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/5433760176_7b7af5fbbf_b.jpg)
We hiked part way out, dropped packs and then ran up Russell. I've never met anyone else that's done the East Ridge (although I'm sure many, many climbers have), but I've met more than ten mountaineers who were in the process of bailing off the route due to the exposure:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5433137109_e501207cc2_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5216/5433987788_2930434f8f_b.jpg)
On the summit with Whitney in the background:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5433375497_f14c151417_b.jpg)
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You're on a roll! This is great stuff, man. ;D
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On Labor Day, 1999, I did the first ascent of a climb I had discovered while hiking and looking around with my daughter Katie. It's on the Sonora Pass Highway, near the Columns of the Giants. And it's very unusual. Basalt columns which, presumably over eons, mother nature has turned on end. It was an eerie lead, onsight, dead vertical, but with huge holds. When I finished I thought it was strong 5.8. The other four people with me followed and thought 5.7 (the holds are big, and it's only 40 or 45 feet high). It also required some interesting trundling.
We called it Hexentric:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5435750073_fc6acb80cd_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5435751319_24f067f877_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/5436361786_50fda8e781_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/5436362602_bb3a96d44e_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5436362810_4770f799dc_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5436363094_eccbbac796_b.jpg)
Of the folks who post here, I know Munge has led this too. Munge, would you post some comments about and photos of this weird route if you've got them (even though, obviously, this part of this thread is on the wrong forum!)?
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On Labor Day, 1999, I did the first ascent of a climb I had discovered while hiking and looking around with my daughter Katie. It's on the Sonora Pass Highway, near the Columns of the Giants. And it's very unusual. Basalt columns which, presumably over eons, mother nature has turned on end. It was an eerie lead, onsight, dead vertical, but with huge holds. When I finished I thought it was strong 5.8. The other four people with me followed and thought 5.7 (the holds are big, and it's only 40 or 45 feet high). It also required some interesting trundling.
We called it Hexentric:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5435750073_fc6acb80cd_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5435751319_24f067f877_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/5436361786_50fda8e781_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/5436362602_bb3a96d44e_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5436362810_4770f799dc_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5436363094_eccbbac796_b.jpg)
Of the folks who post here, I know Munge has led this too. Munge, would you post some comments about and photos of this weird route if you've got them (even though, obviously, this part of this thread is on the wrong forum!)?
The pictures of this climb always made it look surreal. These do no less justice
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Spooky climb. Like the whole thing will start peeling away and fall down the talus. There's a few climbs like that on the Pass where they have spook factor 10. I'd have to check my notes whether I lead that day or if we let Evan or Chriz lead. Unique climb to climbe the ends of the columns to be sure.
oh, and take this SPH stuff to the Sonorapass site. sheesh, talk about off topic. ;)
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Ahh, cleaning off bad rock. The Eastern front is like that. scrub, scrub,....shit the hold was held by the moss and dirt...trundle!
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...Like the whole thing will start peeling away and fall down the talus.
...oh, and take this SPH stuff to the Sonorapass site. sheesh, talk about off topic. ;)
Hold it, hold it. Loose rock, peeling away. How doesn't THAT belong on a Pinns forum?
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Cools pics, that is one photogenic climb.
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Item 7a in my "Father, adult male," job description reads: "Wait eagerly until child enters teen years. Embarrass thereafter liberally."
We used to do a kids backpacking trip every summer with Jim and his family. From the 1999 trip I present a photo of one Katherine (Katie) Young, now a teenager, then a naked baby:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5437443244_d466130c43_b.jpg)
A few other favorites from the same trip:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5436832925_6119d638c2_b.jpg)
Hiking out with Jim's second-to-youngest:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5437440842_0a74a40086_b.jpg)
Later in the same year, Katie (yes, Katie, not Tricia) at Herring Creek Dome (age four):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5436856763_1952b0906e_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/5436866219_0359fee401_b.jpg)
Then, from October, 1999, photos from the first ascent of a Burst Rock area, three star classic, 5.10d, Three Days On (I named two adjacent three star routes here in honor of my good friend Dave Harden. At the time he was a firefighter. We learned to climb around his schedule of three days on and four days off):
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5436861509_6a54468877_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5437471380_4edb6d5485_b.jpg)
Very few left to post from this round of 300 slides. Most or all of the few coming are of our favorite winter place to climb. Maybe a few of our favorite bit of munge.
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Brad- you so nailed it....the girls will kill you when they see what you have posted.
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why is this not on SPH!!!! or at least cross post, sheesh. or maybe some of the good ones.
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why is this not on SPH!!!! or at least cross post, sheesh. or maybe some of the good ones.
OK, you're right. I'm just used to posting here, and most folks who are on one are on both. But there is no excuse, many of these make up some of the history of climbing on SPH (yeah? I may be old, but you're also old enough to have made history there too). I will, once I finish with this set, cross post to SPH.
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:)
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this site needs traffic...any traffic.
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this site needs traffic...any traffic.
This site? Its doing fine....SPH needs it
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Warning: Site usage patterns are subject to seasonal migrations.
SPH will be back in four months.
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Very true, I have looked at statics of both site. Very similar, but with different seasons.
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Atom: SPH will be back in closer to two months. By mid April things normally start busting loose up the pass (and Salsa's B&B starts its annual climbing traffic).
BTW, if you haven't climbed much up here, you really should see the second edition route list and in-progress book. Given what you've been up to at Pinns you'd likely find the Lost World very nice. Many, many, very hard, clean, excellent routes. Other areas too. In many ways, climbing here is almost as fun as climbing at Pinns.
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Last few from this set of scans.
Leading Rock Naked, December, 1999:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5436914373_260ff29836_b.jpg)
Rob leading the first pitch of Condor Condiment, during the same trip:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/5437560166_7edca75915_b.jpg)
Kinda dark, but me belaying as Rob leads the original third pitch to Condor Condiment:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/5437561752_319c6014f4_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5436952815_a14cd1a5ac_b.jpg)
That's it for this set of slides. I'll eventually have the remaining 500 slides scanned, but it'll be a while.
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oh nice. who took those shots?
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Thankfully he is wearing cloths. Although that seems wrong for that route.
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did the corner to the right of rock naked ever get done?
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Not that I know of.
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The photos were taken by the third climber with us, Brinton McCusker. He hadn't been climbing much and was totally wiped out tired and stayed on the ground when we did Condor. Do you remember a few days before when a hold broke and he held me on a lead fall out on Knuckle Ridge? He caught the fall and then had such a look of disbelief that the system had worked that we started laughing at him. After you took off that trip, he and I did Feather Canyon.
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ic, a one day'er. Brinton's name brings back a bit of the memory. thx
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does sonora pass climbing have a web site?
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does sonora pass climbing have a web site?
DOES IT? Does it! Well, yes...Munge
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It does, but you might not be one of the chosen few.
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does sonora pass climbing have a web site?
you hurt me with your words ;)