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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on May 02, 2011, 10:52:13 PM

Title: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 02, 2011, 10:52:13 PM: post up why :thumbup:
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: squiddo on May 03, 2011, 07:22:16 AM: There is no choice of something with loose cobbles :P
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 03, 2011, 09:30:00 AM: added POD and The Groove
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: F4? on May 03, 2011, 11:54:45 AM: Heaven's gate?

My favorite is Los Banditos....
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: squiddo on May 03, 2011, 12:01:10 PM: Quote from: F4? on May 03, 2011, 11:54:45 AM
Heaven's gate?

My favorite is Los Banditos....

What are you Randy Vogel? All my routes are 5 ***'s!
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 03, 2011, 12:05:11 PM: hahhaha
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mynameismud on May 03, 2011, 01:05:54 PM: I went with SOD because of the variety. steep face (well fairly), semi run moderate, the the chimney which has some good quality rock.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: F4? on May 03, 2011, 02:35:28 PM: Is SOD a sport climb? I hear it has a plethora of bolts...
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: squiddo on May 03, 2011, 02:45:48 PM: Quote from: F4? on May 03, 2011, 02:35:28 PM
Is SOD a sport climb? I hear it has a plethora of bolts...

STILL on my list
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: MudMittens on May 03, 2011, 03:10:17 PM: Of these options, I've gotta go with Verdict.
Reasoning: established ground up, spaced bolts in easy sections, steep, many options, creaky holds despite its classic status, central location.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 03, 2011, 03:33:12 PM: I went with Regular Route on Mono. Those knobs always were sort of the sine qua non (wtf does sine qua non translate to again?) of my trips to Pinnacles in the early days. We would go up that to set up a TR on FTB.

Tiburcios and Portent also has that memory quality. But nothing on Disco qualifies for me because it's not an independent pinnacle. Mono has a distinct summit.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: squiddo on May 03, 2011, 03:42:49 PM: Quote from: mungeclimber on May 03, 2011, 03:33:12 PM
(wtf does sine qua non translate to again?)

Good lord Latin, how the heck should I know......only lawyers and doctors. Brad's on holiday otherwise he might respond.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 03, 2011, 03:45:51 PM: ...heading for wikipedia, then the gym...
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: F4? on May 03, 2011, 04:42:42 PM: Condor Condiment is the ultimate Pinnacles climb

Yeah, Lava Falls and Shake and Bake are truly unique.

But Condor has the full experience...shitty rock, shitty bolts and a holmgren runout that takes only natural gear.

And yes, all of my routes are 5*****, until Brad returns from vacation.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: waldo on May 06, 2011, 08:42:30 AM: Condor Condiment is right up there for me, but I'm biased.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: Jake M. on May 31, 2011, 09:56:25 PM: My 2 cents...
Love the variety and height of SODW. Some moderate runouts up high, loose rock, chimney, aid, and of course the first pitch is exceptional. I also like the feel of that section of Machete, since it amplifies how off the ground you feel.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: waldo on May 31, 2011, 10:48:16 PM: SODW is good. There's a runout before the chimney that reminds you where you are.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: kylequeener on June 18, 2011, 07:24:11 PM: Son of Dawn Wall. Full package Pinns route. Definitely the best route on Machete. Cuidado is really really good too but it's not the full classic Pinns route. The first ascensionists really picked a plum. Lucky guys.

I am fond of Denny and Coliver routes too.

If anyone wants to do go do Icarus or lend me some pins so I can at least try soloing it?
Time to learn how to really aid.

-Ky
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: skully on June 18, 2011, 07:42:31 PM: Try, really try the light touch on your pins. I know that well driven pin feels damn good when you're out there, but you really want that spot to last. A bunch of monkeys with hammers can really do a number on a place, but quick. Seen the Shield? Yeesh. I dunno. Good climbing to ya.
Title: Re: What route is the best example of Pinnacles climbing?
Post by: F4? on June 19, 2011, 06:21:08 AM: A big thanks is due to Mr Mud and Mr. Cummins for cleaning up the route, especially the section getting to the chimney.