MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Brad Young on May 14, 2011, 05:12:04 PM

Title: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 14, 2011, 05:12:04 PM
The advantage of not having to drive 182 miles to climb; we spent today getting on granite in spite of a few sprinkles. Then to home to start the wood stoves. It's supposed to snow to 3,000 feet tonight (we live at 4,400 feet).

Random shots of Laura leading a newly established route:

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2651/5720114515_52cef9e525_z.jpg)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/5720697548_1ef645787c_z.jpg)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2046/5720143337_a0d24b6fee_z.jpg)



It's not Pinns, but climbing up here does have a certain convenience, a quality of limitless exploration. And sometimes granite is nice.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 14, 2011, 06:15:23 PM
Castle was nice...sunny at times.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: mungeclimber on May 14, 2011, 06:39:08 PM
pics aren't showing up
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: mungeclimber on May 14, 2011, 06:58:47 PM
oh, and weak sauce post not putting this on sph



I butchered the moody blues, but what the heck, the name sounded good at the time. :)

Quote
Nuns in white satin, never reaching the end,
Climbs I've developed, never meaning to send.
Beauty I'd always missed with these eyes before.
Just what the truth is, I can't say anymore.

'Cos I love you, yes I love you, oh how I love you.

Gazing at people, some hand in jams,
Just what I'm going through they can't understands.
Some try to tell me, thoughts they cannot defend,
Just what you want to free, you will free in the end.

And I love you, yes I love you,
Oh how I love you, oh how I love you.

Nuns in white satin, never reaching the end,
Climbs I've developed, never meaning to send.
Beauty I've always missed, with these eyes before.
Just what the truth is, I can't say anymore.

'Cos I love you, yes I love you,
Oh how I love you, oh how I love you.
'Cos I love you, yes I love you,
Oh how I love you, oh how I love you.

Breath deep
The gathering gloom
Watch lights fade
From cabin rooms
Bay area people
Look back and lament
Another day's useless
Energy spent

Thrashed on punters
Wrestled and won
silly man cries for some
And has none
New climbs put up
just for fun
Senior citizens
Wish they were young

Cold hearted crag
That rules our sight
Remove the munge
tie on a bight
Red/gray and
Yellow/white
But we decide
Which alian is right
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 14, 2011, 07:17:59 PM
oh, and weak sauce post not putting this on sph



I butchered the moody blues, but what the heck, the name sounded good at the time. :)


Huh? What you talking about?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: lasher on May 14, 2011, 07:32:37 PM
Nice looking route. 
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Uncle Stinky on May 14, 2011, 07:57:00 PM
cool! 
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 14, 2011, 08:09:53 PM
Dude you have no idea....I'm just laying down...was out all day.

Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 15, 2011, 07:36:57 AM
Alright, I confess. Rob put up the route in the photos last weekend. Nice FA on a section of granite with great views over the Stanislaus River canyon. We all suspected he'd recognize the photos (suspected? We should have KNOWN). And I put them up on this site only to goad him into chewing me out for using this site rather than the (obviously) more appropriate site.

But it wasn't much of a chew-out, so I guess I didn't get him.

Nuns in White Satin 5.8, 60 feet (both of the Dawsons and I climbed it, two leads, and we thought 5.8 for sure, with a unique, pull around the roof crux).

Meanwhile we had a little precipitation here overnight, so no climbing today (we'll work on the guidebook instead):

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2496/5722675212_03ff97b713_z.jpg)


(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3334/5722119267_0f4a7de7cc_z.jpg)
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 15, 2011, 08:36:29 AM
Looks 5.7 from my couch.....
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 15, 2011, 08:57:36 AM
Looks 5.7 from my couch.....

What does, our back deck?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: mungeclimber on May 15, 2011, 10:17:34 AM
5.7 for sure

did the thin crack the arete and their respective top outs get done?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 15, 2011, 10:42:25 AM
This line looks 5.7, maybe 5.6?

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/5720697548_1ef645787c_z.jpg)
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 15, 2011, 11:51:29 AM
5.7 for sure

did the thin crack the arete and their respective top outs get done?

Yes 5.7, and DES Junior says so too. No, only a bit easier than the 5.9 to its left; 5.8 for sure.

Thin crack did not get done, Tim spent much time on the approach trail (very nice now), and only a little cleaning that crack.

And I promise next time I'll post on the CORRECT forum  ;D ;D
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 15, 2011, 07:25:23 PM
Isn't this the forum?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: mungeclimber on May 15, 2011, 08:08:12 PM
This line looks 5.7, maybe 5.6?

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/5720697548_1ef645787c_z.jpg)

Just realized Laura is placing a blue alien. I placed the exact same piece thinking maybe something else would work, but in terms of where you stand, it's the most convenient piece to place.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 15, 2011, 08:20:19 PM
Wouldn't a bolt be easier??? Or a piton?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 15, 2011, 08:21:19 PM
Weird, I led it  before she did and I got in a great .5 Camalot eight inches farther to the (climber's) left. I have longer reach than her, but I don't think I've got longer reach than you?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: squiddo on May 16, 2011, 11:34:27 AM
I have longer reach than her, but I don't think I've got longer reach than you?

I thought you did? Me, I'm like a tyrannosaurs rex.

PS, Valley was nice Sat but then  went to hell in a hand-basket. Still worth it....always.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 17, 2011, 07:05:38 PM
Crap, I have to get up at 5:00 A.M. tomorrow.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: F4? on May 17, 2011, 07:15:26 PM
Want a wake up call?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 17, 2011, 07:20:06 PM
Nah, thanks. Vicki's none too pleased as it is (I hope she can go back to sleep).
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: squiddo on May 17, 2011, 07:52:54 PM
Crap, I have to get up at 5:00 A.M. tomorrow.

5am for you?? Surprised you're not moaning about it more. I'll be sleeping- or changing a diaper
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 17, 2011, 08:18:28 PM
Diaper? Man, I've forgotten about those. I suppose you're over the gag reflex by now?
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: squiddo on May 17, 2011, 08:23:09 PM
Diaper? Man, I've forgotten about those. I suppose you're over the gag reflex by now?

I'm moaning some, but since it means an extra afternoon of climbing at Red Rocks, I suppose I have to whine in a somewhat restrained manner. But, actually, I can whine about that too. We were going to the Kern River/Lower Needles, but given the weather we decided on five days at Red Rocks instead. So, once again, I have to climb in Red Rocks. Life is about tough choices.

Gag is long gone. Ps, that's not a tough choice but its bragging....
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 17, 2011, 08:54:59 PM
OK, you're probably right. I took it down.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: squiddo on May 17, 2011, 09:03:23 PM
OK, you're probably right. I took it down.


Brad- I was kidding!! How is SNP looking (aside the snow), love to get back up there.
Title: Re: Cold Weekend Granite
Post by: Brad Young on May 18, 2011, 04:15:04 AM
Snowed two more inches last night. But it's supposed to be warming now.