MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Gavin on October 18, 2011, 09:20:07 AM
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Hey gang -
I was out climbing on the west side yesterday, and finally had the chance to check out some routes I've always wanted to explore, in particular Conduit to the Cosmos. Man that is an awesome route! At the top of the second pitch, I noticed the anchor for the belay station is still made up of three bolts with hangers plus some fading webbing and a couple of rings. Would anybody be totally opposed to the idea of me replacing the webbing with short chains and quick links (painted to blend into the rock color) to make the anchor safer and less visible?
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If the topo + visibility from belay/ground is good to know where you are headed to get to that belay, I say replace it.
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wait a second! You climbed Conduit?
Where's the full trip report?!?!?!?! :)
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wait a second! You climbed Conduit?
Where's the full trip report?!?!?!?! :)
Totally, and picts. Also, how BAD is that crux:-)
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Nice! Please put chains on it.
It's on the list to rebolt that route. Jim want's to replace the bolt before the crux with a monster 1/2 SS sucker.
If on it again, please brush the holds.
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Thanks for the feedback.
As to a trip report: yeah, I guess I could provide a few more details! Unfortunately I didn't have a camera with me... I was kicking myself about that, especially sitting on the enormous cliff wall boulder for the second pitch anchors. I'll try to remember to bring one next time for some before/after shots of the second pitch belay anchor.
At any rate... I hiked over to the west side with my wife Alacia. Balconies was in full sun, so we started with a few warm-ups at the Flumes: Bits n' Pieces, Rebecca's Sailing, and Nipples and Knobs. I'd done the first two before, but not the 10a. That was a pretty cool climb too, with solid holds and some fun sustained moves.
It was getting towards afternoon so we packed and hiked to Balconies, now all in the shade. We weren't sure what we were going to climb but gazing up the Conduit line, I convinced Alacia to let me go for it. I'd always wanted to climb the first two pitches but had never been on it before. (Yeah, I know I've been here a number of years...)
Well, suffice it to say I onsighted it and it was a hell of a lot of fun. There are certainly some holds that flex, but by and large the rock is amazingly solid and fun all the way through. There are some pretty huge knobs - more like small boulders - sticking out of the cliff face! Although some of the holds were a bit dirty near the bottom of the first pitch and the top of the second pitch, all in all the holds weren't too dirty. (Okay, right near the massive boulder of the second pitch anchor the exfoliating, peeling rock effect was definitely a bit more evident.)
It's funny, the 10d section wasn't as bad as I expected... The runout was kinda freaky and exposed, but I was preparing for far worse. (Maybe I've been spending too much time on Heat Seeking Moisture Missile!) I think the trickiest part on it was halfway through the crux, when the solid feet more or less disappear. There is a lefthand knob that initially looks nice but is downturned and feels really awkward... Once I figured a way to grab it, though, I was able to push through the rest. (Alacia pushed through the first pitch after some cursing and screaming, then let me finish off the second pitch.) We rapped off the wall and got to the base right around dusk. Good timing, and super fun!
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Thx!
Borrow a pic from Clint's post on the Taco just to liven up the thread...
Cory Mclean on Conduit at crux bulge...
(http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q317/clintcummins/06n25pin/1193R.jpg)
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Nice... Looks a bit cooler in that pic than I experienced yesterday! I think it must have been mid 90s yesterday... Not thinking, I climbed shirtless, sweat, and got bits of lichen everywhere.
Speaking of the Conduit crux, there's a pretty fun lieback move right after it and before the first anchor too. Keeps ya guessing!
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Gavin:
Totally impressive lead. Conduit is a big entry on one of my Pinnacles lists (the list of routes that I haven't done there that scare the sh#$ out of me).
Jim doesn't post here all that much, but he certainly lurks. I suspect he'll post here soon and give his blessing to chains.
BTW, CALL or EMAIL me before you do it again. I am not proud. I really, really like climbing with you. I love helping clean up old belays. I will gladly drive over, even for the day to belay you and help (and get to rehearse the moves before I lead it).
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load up the wagon, I'd hold Gavin's rope to get a rope above me on a route like that! :)
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Hey, hands off, I dibbsed him first.
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Brad and I replaced some real old tat with chains on Powers that Be. The chains were not painted and stuck out a bit until after the first winter. They are still unpainted but are now almost invisible.
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Thanks for the chain suggestion... I'll see what I can find at the local hardware stores and online. Regardless, I think chain and quicklinks would be an improvement. You can't see the anchor from the base of the climb, because of the huge boulder sticking out at the belay station, but from the main hiker trails I've definitely noticed it before.
Brad (and Munge), I'll let you know when I can make it out to Conduit again. It might be a bit, as Alacia and I are heading to Ecuador for the first 3 weeks of November (for birding, wildlife photography, and that sort), but I'd love to get back on this winter. Maybe I can give a go on one or two of the 5.11 climbs nearby as well. I'll let you know when I wrangle up some anchor supplies.
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I'll be happy to help! :o
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I have ASCA hardware I can mail or drop off, or bring the day of replacement.
I also have 2 ring Fixe ASCA anchor rigs.
And Big Fat SS bolts.
Let me know, bout that time again....
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Shameless plug. If any of you have free time....come on over and help out on the money pit..aka the new case de factor. The Muds have done their share.
Oh and yah, we should get a date set to replace all of the bolts.
T-Giving week???
Yoohoo Jim......
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Nice... It sounds like there may be interest in replacing bolts on Conduit as well as other routes.
If I get some chains and quick links, perhaps I can put those on the second belay station anchor in the interim, then the bolts themselves can be replaced at a later date and the chains / quick links can be used or discarded as the rebolting team sees fit.
Just a reminder that seasonal raptor closures will stat up again in mid January (around the 16th, I'd guess)!
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Another route in that area that could really use a couple of fresh bolts is Peregrine
Especially the 2nd pitch
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Hello Gavin,
Replacing all that crusty old webbing with chains would be greatly appreciated and long overdue. I had planned to be back well before now to clean up the route, but... other life like intrusions have taken priority.
Hi Erik,
T-day weekend, provided it's dry, will work well for bolt replacement. I still have a couple of ASCA half inch stainless for the crux ones. Other than those two, I only have some 2 1/4 x 3/8 stainless from my personal stock.
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I think I have a few stainless 3 inchers. It will take a very long cheater stick for me to get up that route.
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Very nice Gavin!
like Brad, it's been on my list forever, but don't have what it takes to rope up for that run out....good on ya!
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T-day weekend, provided it's dry, will work well for bolt replacement.
Let's hope the stork comes earlier in the week.
;D
I have a few of the SS 3.5 x 3/8 suckers and can donate.
2nd pitch of Peregrine. Yes they do needs replacing. The rock on the 1st pitch is 1 hold cleaner.
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Hey all, sorry for the delayed response... I just returned from 3 weeks of vacation in Ecuador but am now back at the Pinns.
Jim: thanks for the message and the go-ahead... I bought some chain lengths and quick links, will paint them soon, and hope to get out to upgrade the 2nd belay station in the next couple of weeks.
Joe: good to hear from you! Yeah, the Conduit run-out sections are non-trivial, but definitely part of the experience! I think the run-out right near the 2nd belay station felt the most squirrely to me because there were a greater abundance of flexing holds there.
Brad: I'm game for heading out to Conduit in the next couple of weeks if that works for you. Let me know.
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Totally agree Gavin. I moved very slowly through that section on the 2nd pitch, rock quality deteriorates there and the moves are for real... Mark Seelos (mittens) totally styled the first pitch. Awesome climb and got to spray with the first ascentionist, the original badass Jim M, in the lot with BY over beverages after doing the climb...great day!
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The 2nd belay station anchor has been updated - rather than sun-faded webbing, it is now equipped with camo chains and quick links. Brad and I made it up today - and Brad added a bit of chain at the left bolt of the first anchor on the way down. Stay tuned for a full trip report and photos soon! (...As soon as Brad or someone else gives me email directions on how to link to Flickr photos...)