MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on November 26, 2011, 10:04:17 PM
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Quick run down on routes that we got on...
Straight Up 5.8?
Heavens Gate 5.9*
Gerties 5.7 tr far left side* [this needs rings]
Gerties 5.7 sw face left *
Gerties 5.8 sw face right *
Gerties 5.10a sw face middle *
Hampster route at tourist trap 5.8 * [this needs another anchor bolt]
Ridge Rock "5.3" route to the bolts.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6409485493_b9664b4a57_z.jpg)
will type up some details later...
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There is some goodness.
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The weather must have been stupendous! It was over 70 degrees down here at the beach.
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Coast side weather was very good. From the top of Skyline the curvature of the Earth was the limit. Pacific Ocean was look very nice.
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Straight Up 5.8?
Heavens Gate 5.9*
Gerties 5.7 tr far left side* [this needs rings]
Gerties 5.7 sw face left *
Gerties 5.8 sw face right *
Gerties 5.10a sw face middle *
Hampster route at tourist trap 5.8 * [this needs another anchor bolt]
Ridge Rock "5.3" route to the bolts.
So Straight Up was interesting. Posted elsewhere on that.
Heaven's Gate seems more stable generally than before, but still lots of hollow sounding chunks. That second to last bolt is a killer to clip for the grade, but Marc styled it on the lead no prob.
That 5.8 on SW face of Gerties is fun and quite the arm stretcher the way I did it. Might be worth a couple stars for the roof move alone.
I debated on leading the 10a, but decided to try it. Out of shape, as usual. I couldn't figure a way to make the move easy. Attempts to muscle it felt really awkward and I have no endurance so I hung on it and tried to puzzle it out. It wasn't until Marc mentioned a quasi mantle that it dawned on me what I had to do with my feet to make a reach to a gaston like edge up on the right. Once the foot could be brought up, the reaches were do-able and the rock over was not difficult. The redpoint should be easy next time.
On the way down we checked out the formation above Ridge Rock, naming it "Sidewalk in the Sky" for a sandy ramp that leads to the top at a heartbraking 2nd class.
On Ridge Rock proper, the 5.3 route I inspected pretty closely. I couldn't see a way to top the northernmost feature without at least a dirty move of 5.5 or possibly better. Even if lead, if you pitch off and fall it is damage central, so it looked "R" rated too for a 5.3. I didn't try traversing out onto the east side to see if there is another way to top it out on the northern point, so it would be good to get another person's thoughts on this and add a correction as needed.
To finish up the day, I had Marc lead one of the new Hampster routes. ULTRA CLASSIC, naturally.
Marc saw Joe D as we were driving out to get back early. Also briefly glimpsed Greg, Karin and Caitlin. Sounds like they had a great day at Disco.
Traffic back was murderous. It seemed folks were coming home from Salinas compounded by Gilroy Outlet shops backing things up. Holiday traffic jam.
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6415269385_690d876092_z.jpg)
Sidewalk in the Sky formation
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6110/6415265481_bfb7e7036a_z.jpg)
"Nail Puller" slot on The Hatchet (route is on backside of this pic, fyi)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6415260133_18000316fe_z.jpg)
North side of Gerties. The bolted lines are on the south side in the sun. Not a bad spot on a colder day. Was shorts weather Saturday.
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6415279089_89b07c555a_z.jpg)
devilishly hamster-like in his movement
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6415273399_380d6e986c_z.jpg)
A couple climbing on Tiburcios as we were walking out
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Awesome !
Ya, the traffic was awful today, particularly near the Gilroy outlets.
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Aw how cute the little hampster!
Was Squiddo scaredon heavens gate? Prolly tried the 5.9 move on heaven's gate a couple times. Cursed me, then Brad, then me, then Brad, spit 20 times and then finally pulled the move.
Where is my yellow sling? Did you guys get it? Jim forgot or I forgot to ask him to get it. Prolly the latter. The route needs chains.
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you should go pull your trash off that thing! ;)
was that there from when you and I did it?
Marc fired it in fine style. No hesitation. Just that goofy bolt on the left is a pain to reach.
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Dude, something big ripped from that route....I never had to gout the arête to get the bolt until last June. Yeah, time is a bitch and that route did change.
Mr young has given the okay to move the bolt...
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nice pix...good on ya...