MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: joe on December 06, 2011, 10:10:58 AM
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got a call from a very good friend, Jude, who is close to Lars this morning...apparently Lars' wife called Jude to let him know that Lars got into an accident while climbing with Brad and Josh on Monday...Jude was looking for B's contact information...apparently Lars was seriously hurt, broke both legs, ruptured spleen, airlift, surgery, ICU in SJ...that's what I got from Jude who was hoping to find out what happened...
I contacted Brad, who at this time is not up for talking about what happened but suggested I start this thread and he can then add to it when ready...
here is the e-mail from Brad:
Joe, feel free to give out my contact info to anyone any time you wish. I don’t however think I’m up to having a series of discussions with people about what happened (after the many I had yesterday). It’s a tough story to tell about a total fluke, something that everyone who has hiked off trail at Pinns has done a hundred times. Josh literally pushed gently against a huge rock as he tried to move past it and it tumbled. Unbelievably bad luck. On the other hand there were almost 20 NPS personnel on the West Side, moving, for that one day, and they started up to Lars literally within six or seven minutes of my arrival at the parking area.. When was the last time there was more than one ranger there on a weekday? It appears certain that their quick reaction saved his life.
Perhaps you would be willing to start a thread for us on Mudn’Crud? That way Josh and I could post some info when we’re composed, and not have to explain the same thing 15 times to 15 concerned people. It’s too hard to do that. Feel free to use this email in whole or part if you’re willing to open a thread.
Sincerely,
Brad Young
very sad, tenga cuidado out there...
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Wow ok that happened on Monday and that makes sense. Absolutly terrible new......so sorry to hear this Joe. This stuff touches all of us in the climbing community. We don't even need to be present to have it so.
I'm thinking good thoughts for all involved and a speedy recovery to Lars.
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from Brad:
One other thing: This all occurred while we were walking – Class Two or Three. It was not a climbing accident. We were ten feet from the start of an old project that Lars was showing us. We all had our packs on. We were in what might be the single least accessible place in the Monument. Unbelievable.
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All the best to everyone involved. A speedy recovery to Lars.
God Bless and Good Health
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more details:
Joe, Thanks. Somehow this is easier. Post this too please.
As we were moving uphill, Josh was in the lead, then Lars and then me. We were in a bit of a slot between a slab and a short cliff. The three foot diameter boulder came loose with no warning. Josh and I agree that Lars then literally threw Josh out of the way (it appears that Josh has a minor wrist fracture in spite of Lars’ effort). I dove off to the left. Lars had nowhere to go. The boulder came to a stop on top of his legs. Nothing Josh and I tried would budge the boulder; it must have weighed hundreds of pounds. As I was running for help, Josh dug under the boulder to free Lars. It took 45 minutes of digging with his bare hands (and a broken wrist). Josh is EMT trained and between him and NPS ranger Mark they absolutely saved his life.
Brad Young
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Many props to Brad for running out for the Rescue, I doubt there is anyone else that knows their way around the Pins better than Brad and he can still move well for an old duffer.
Also Many props to Muchi for digging out Lars and helping him during the wait for the rescue team.
It is very unfortunate to hear about Lars but it would be difficult for him to be in that situation with two better people.
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Oh whoa
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I just talked to Mucci who is there at the hospital. Lars is out of surgery, stable and is suppposed to be taken off the ventilator today. The list of injuries is very, very long, including more areas of broken bones than I can list. He is one tough cookie.
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Everyone's action under the circumstance was incredible. The word hero came to my mind.
Thank you Brad and Joe for sharing. Wish a speedy recovery to Lars and best wishes to everyone involved.
Wish everyone an uneventful new year and many years of good luck to come.
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Thx for the update.
Heal fast Lars
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Wow I am so shocked, what a wild wild turn of events.
My love goes out to all those involved. I'm sending some good positive energy your way Lars.
And once again thanks to the NPS for doing so such a great job with the rescue.
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Is it possible to get the Hospital and room number. Would be nice to send some flowers. My recollection of hospitals is well..., it might be kinda nice to have some flowers around.
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http://www.thecalifornian.com/article/20111206/NEWS01/112060302/Pinnacles-hiker-trapped-under-boulder?odyssey=tab (http://www.thecalifornian.com/article/20111206/NEWS01/112060302/Pinnacles-hiker-trapped-under-boulder?odyssey=tab)|topnews|text|Frontpage
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I was on scene yesterday as part of the rescue team that evacuated Lars. It was terrible to see him affixed in the litter, with Josh covered with dirt, and worry in his eyes. I'm grateful to hear Lars is stable in the hospital, and sincerely thankful for the quick run Brad took down to the west side entry station for help, Josh's capacity to dig out Lars in the interim, and the efficient response of so many folks - NPS, CalFire, Calstar, etc. -to set up a low-angle rescue and a short-haul helicopter flight to evacuate him so quickly. It was a heads-up response all around to a tragic incident.
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I called San Jose Medical Center to see if flowers can be sent to his room. They said he was not there so I guess he managed to jump up and run off somewhere else. Or maybe admitting has not caught up.
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How horrible ! I'd just met him on Sunday afternoon. Thinking positive thoughts.
I wonder if he might have been transferred to Valley Medical, since they have a number of good rehab units (was in spinal cord injury rehab for five weeks in 2007). That's my neighborhood, so I'd be happy to visit & bring anything he might need.
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just picked up a message from Jude that the tubes have been removed...
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Valley Medical,
No response there either. If anyone comes up with location we can send flowers to, post, send me an email or pm.
Thanks.
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I suspect that Josh will also post up this evening (but maybe not). He's been to the hospital and can maybe confirm where he is down to the room number.
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Wow, sorry to hear. I'm glad the outcome wasn't worse.
Now Squiddo won't give me a hard time about carrying a cell.
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Fwiw, I only got cell up right at high peaks. Has that changed?
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I do not know Lars but heal up quick! Sounds like Mucci and Brad did the right things good work guys !
Jeff
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My rule of thumb for Verizon cell= when you can see the range across the salinas valley. Shaft, Condor, H&L(?).
I find it's lighter to bring a phone than a guide...Mr Mud is 99.9% to be stuck working and answering his phone.
Again, sorry to hear. Most likely a freak accident.
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I just talked to Josh. Lars is still in intensive care which is why they can't give a room number. No visitors and no flowers are allowed. It sounds like he'll be there until after another surgery which is scheduled for Thursday. Then he will be moved to a normal hospital room.
He's fairly lucid, he was even joking a little with his long time climbing partner Steve B. His wife is with him. Apparently one of his first questions was about my health, whether I was OK, since he remembered that I was right behind him. That was tough to hear. Josh will give me another update in the morning.
Also, Josh is going to wait a while to post up his thoughts.
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Thank you for the update and that makes sense. Hope Josh is doing well. He should not beat himself up to much. Stuff happens, I almost killed ( at least serious head damage) a very good friend once when dropping a #4 friend. He felt it go through his hair. He was a full pitch below me. Josh is solid.
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I'm new to MNC and I don't know Lars, but wanted to wish him well and speedy recovery. Great to see such a supportive community!
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I talked to Josh late last evening. He had just been to see Lars. Lars had what sounds like his last surgery yesterday, this to put metal into his leg. The expectation was that he'd transfer from the ICU today. He's been in some pain (yeah, I can see that). Several long-time friends and his wife have been spending lots of time with him. From what Josh said he and they all sounded in good spirits; a fair amount of irreverent humor was going around.
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thx Brad
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There have been a lot of questions and concern voiced on Supertopo about how Lars is doing. This is what I am about to post there:
"It's hard to respond to requests about how Lars is doing. Of course everyone is concerned (what remarkable community of climbers we are all part of). But, I'm concerned also about Lars' and his family's privacy.
Here's an effort to balance the two. What I'm posting is based on what Josh has told me and on my own impressions:
- Lars: It's not easy to say, but Lars was very seriously hurt. As of last night, he was still in ICU (although there had been some talk about moving him to a normal hospital bed, that didn't happen). I am told that the surgury to insert rods and pins into his leg is the last surgery he needs. I hope so. I know that many people have been spending time with him, from his wife and family to long long time climbing friends like Steve B. I am told that there are times when Lars isn't very coherent and that this seems to be due to the pain medications. And there are other times when he and his friends are sharing irreverant humor, which I consider to be an excellent sign. I think other people who post here are planning on seeing him today or tomorrow and they may be able to give better updates. Keep praying.
- Josh: I think Josh will be OK. He won't really talk about his wrist injury, which will heal. As to his state of mind he and I have talked and talked about how the boulder moved. He barely touched it. He did nothing wrong and nothing any different from what every other person who has ever hiked cross-country has done. And yet he knows, and I do too, that he will always wonder whether and why he didn't do something just a little different. That's human nature. It's a subject I've been able to talk with him about from experience; in 1992, I dislodged a flake on the Leaning Tower that hit and badly injured my partner. I've talked to Josh about that incident (and about PTSD) with the perspective of 19 years, and with the insights that come from having asked the same questions of myself that I know Josh will ask of himself for years. I've told Josh, too, that he better damn well shake his own hand. The event that happened was a total fluke. What wasn't a fluke, and what isn't open to question, is that Josh's quick thinking, his effort to dig Lars out with his bare hands, and his EMT training saved Lars' life. When the helicopter short haul took place, there were 15 minutes left until it would have been too dark to fly. If Lars had still been under that boulder (which two of us couldn't budge) when the SAR team arrived, if Josh hadn't taken steps to guard against shock... well the picture is obvious. Still, Josh needs our help and prayers, too.
- Brad: The flashbacks continue, but I slept last night without using Ambien.
I hope nothing I've posted has gone too far into anyone's personal life. If it has, I'll hear about it and I will then edit this post.
I'll bet many members of the Supertopo commununity are going out this weekend. Have fun, but take a minute, too, to insert just a little extra caution into your adventures."
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There have been a lot of questions and concern voiced on Supertopo about how Lars is doing. This is what I am about to post there:
"It's hard to respond to requests about how Lars is doing. Of course everyone is concerned (what remarkable community of climbers we are all part of). But, I'm concerned also about Lars' and his family's privacy.
Here's an effort to balance the two. What I'm posting is based on what Josh has told me and on my own impressions:
- Lars: It's not easy to say, but Lars was very seriously hurt. As of last night, he was still in ICU (although there had been some talk about moving him to a normal hospital bed, that didn't happen). I am told that the surgury to insert rods and pins into his leg is the last surgery he needs. I hope so. I know that many people have been spending time with him, from his wife and family to long long time climbing friends like Steve B. I am told that there are times when Lars isn't very coherent and that this seems to be due to the pain medications. And there are other times when he and his friends are sharing irreverant humor, which I consider to be an excellent sign. I think other people who post here are planning on seeing him today or tomorrow and they may be able to give better updates. Keep praying.
- Josh: I think Josh will be OK. He won't really talk about his wrist injury, which will heal. As to his state of mind he and I have talked and talked about how the boulder moved. He barely touched it. He did nothing wrong and nothing any different from what every other person who has ever hiked cross-country has done. And yet he knows, and I do too, that he will always wonder whether and why he didn't do something just a little different. That's human nature. It's a subject I've been able to talk with him about from experience; in 1992, I dislodged a flake on the Leaning Tower that hit and badly injured my partner. I've talked to Josh about that incident (and about PTSD) with the perspective of 19 years, and with the insights that come from having asked the same questions of myself that I know Josh will ask of himself for years. I've told Josh, too, that he better damn well shake his own hand. The event that happened was a total fluke. What wasn't a fluke, and what isn't open to question, is that Josh's quick thinking, his effort to dig Lars out with his bare hands, and his EMT training saved Lars' life. When the helicopter short haul took place, there were 15 minutes left until it would have been too dark to fly. If Lars had still been under that boulder (which two of us couldn't budge) when the SAR team arrived, if Josh hadn't taken steps to guard against shock... well the picture is obvious. Still, Josh needs our help and prayers, too.
- Brad: The flashbacks continue, but I slept last night without using Ambien.
I hope nothing I've posted has gone too far into anyone's personal life. If it has, I'll hear about it and I will then edit this post.
I'll bet many members of the Supertopo commununity are going out this weekend. Have fun, but take a minute, too, to insert just a little extra caution into your adventures."
Its been said before but thanks for sharing and thanks for the updates and perspective.
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Thank you for the update. Much good mojo to everyone.
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Thanks for the update. Best wishes to all involved!!
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roger that Brad, thx
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best wishes to all...very sad
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Thanks for the update. good vibes for all!
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One thing that Brad fails to mention is his crucial roll is getting Lars out. In the newspaper article it said Mr. Young had to run 1 1/4 miles to the ranger station for help. Now for someone running on a flat road that might take 10 min. But when Brad says they were in one of the most inaccessible areas of the park, that short distance could take 45 minutes to cover. Brad was able to blast down that hill in a fraction of the time, also helping with the 15 minute window before the helicopter could no longer fly. Brad, you are a hero in our eyes, but next time leave the pack behind;)
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Shit will always happen out in the World. I'm glad that there are folk around to help when it does.
Cheers, everyone. :)
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Wow. I just looked at this thread for the first time in nearly a week. The tears I had been holding back just let loose. Brad has generously been taking reports and offering his take away from our daily conversations throughout the week. I would have had a hard time trying to type last week so now I offer a summary of the events on that monday afternoon.
Brad, Lars and Myself were traversing into a narrow slot that lead to the base of a large flake that marked the start of a project of Lars from the late 80's. I entered the slot first followed by Lars, then Brad. This was a standard, off trail 2nd class approach. Loose scree and the standard bushwhacking was involved. I came to a very large headwall boulder, I stood up on a few holds at the base of the wall and reached out right to steady myself against the wall. I then grabbed the right edge of the headwall boulder with my left hand in an effort to step up onto a shelf.
The boulder cut loose. Falling backward, I was under the right portion of the rushing boulder, my left arm was caught between lars and the boulder. He Pushed my arm or shoulder with his right arm, exposing his entire right side to the boulder.
All I saw after that was a huge boulder rolling down the chute, Brad diving to the left into a tree at the base of a slab and a cloud of dust.
I looked at brads eyes and where they were focused, which lead me to believe that Lars was not fully entrapped. I moved down the hill and saw that he was pinned to the thigh of his right leg, and the left was trapped by its clothing under the boulder. Our first worry was the stability of the boulder, which we tied off to a shrub with Brad's rope. It was not confidence inspiring but the best we could do.
I immediately put my shoulder against the boulder, counted off to Brad and and moved it enough for Brad to get the left leg free. I think we moved it a total of 2 inches before we gave up after many tries. Lars leg was buried, knee to the ground, up to the thigh.
Lars was in a desperate position, head downhill, face down in the yolk of a tree. He had regained conciousness and was telling us that he had broke his shoulder, and to get his leg free. Brad looked at me and gave me that "Dude, I don't want to leave but Now is the time to go" look. Grabbed his pack, tossed me a water and took off down the trail, I yelled at him " Get a Helo Man!".
I used our bags to support his frame then I Started digging like a terrier. His trekking poles had stayed next to his leg and created a void under the boulder which I started enlarging.
I was shoulder deep pulling out pebbles. Eventually I had used the pole and broken out the back side of the boulder. I ran around and went to work there, found his shoe and had a moment of clarity override my desperation to rush the extraction. I removed his shoe carefully, and positioned his foot so that I could slide the leg out without any snags. As I moved around to lars, he was already moving his upper body, and his leg was out 6 inches. I made the decision to support his spine and head with my left arm, and use my right to pull the his legs around and get him into a sitting/reclining position. Painfully, he shouted which was the last time I heard lars speak until the CHP chopper showed up when he said "Get me outta here".
His BP was rising and shock was setting in. I could not move him into a position for shock treatment so I did the best I could with our jackets and the hat I had. I splinted his right compound fracture with the rope and my hammer leash. This allowed me to adjust the height when he moved.
I monitored his vitals, palpated him head to toe, revealing his broken ribs, shoulder and legs. Brad had managed to direct 3 or 4 teams of rescue personel to our location, which was way off the grid, and hopelessly loose. I began to think about how we were going to manage a litter in our tight notch. I started to trundle all of the boulders near us I could down the chute. Breaking branches off and smashing the sharp points near the trunks. I was trying to prep the area not knowing how large the effort was below me on the approach.
Mark, Head Ranger and EMT, and Tim were the first responders, The Litter was 30 min behind them, the CALTECH chopper was already deployed. A Flight nurse and Paramedic were dropped in the summit saddle, and had traversed to our position. I supported lars while they tried to run a line on him, which was not possible. Lars was Critical and It was made know to CHP we needed to short haul. A trail was cut to allow the 20 personel from all local agencies who were present to lower the litter to a hillside for extraction. Chp performed the short haul and lars was off into the sunset.
The portion of time when rescue personel started showing up is clear as day. But trying to write more than i did above is impossible. The gaps between radio communication, trail orders, vitals, rigging, rotorwash, etc were filled with blank stares. At lars, at the boulder, at the faces of the people present. My time with lars, in the beginning, is what replays over and over, then we are all looking up at him and the Helo.
I don't know the timing of everything, It did seem very fast from start to finish. So much so that I found myself walking back to the parking lot at dusk, just like every other time I had climbed on the west side. The parking lot was empty as usual and I could not take it anymore. I fell down and start crying. Brad was there with a rescuer. They got me back on track and I shook it off, knowing the uncertainty of rescue was abolished, now focusing on Lars survival while transport took him to the Trauma center.
Lars is one tough cookie. This past september, 5 months after cancer surgery, he joined his longtime friend Steve and me on a New big wall route in Yosemite. We spent 7 days up there and it was our greatest adventure together. It was hard for him, I could see it in his eyes throughout the climb. Yet he never complained, never sniveled, never let a negative emotion or word escape him. We were all pushing it to the max. At 62 years of age, he is still gettin it done! That was to be his coup de gras, the big finish to a great climbing career that took him all over the world.
Our trip that weekend was a chance for lars to hand over his old projects to me. He knows how much I care about the history of adventure at pinnacles and that I have the highest respect for his boldness on pinnacles First ascents, in areas that are as wild as the day he first found them. For that he entrusted Brad and I with areas that only he has ever ventured.
Lars is alive, and due to every single person involved in his rescue. We needed everyone that day. I don't remember names, just the faces of so many who were there. I see that line of people, with outreached arms waiting for the litter every night. They are like you and me. Good people who did everything they could to save a life.
It all boiled down to 15 minutes, Darkness would have negated a short haul had anything delayed us 15 min. All efforts, on all fronts meant nothing in the wake of time. Time is your enemy during a critical rescue. That day time slowed down just enough to let the bird pluck my friend from harm.
I would like to personally thank, Brad for his amazing effort and olympic speed in getting a swift turnaround for the teams on the approach. His direction and orientation were key to lars survival.
I wish I knew all of the crew, a few are familiar faces, a few are friends, but most were strangers helping some strangers. I give thanks for them every night.
My friend lars is going to heal, he is the most resilient person I know.
Josh Mucci
I know I have missed some things, but the rest will come out with time.
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Thanks Josh. You know, someday we'll have to go in and finish that project out of respect for Lars. But maybe we should consider NOT asking him to come to the base?
We can name the route Moving Day, or Short Haul, or maybe call it Mister Johnson. And we can make it a really, really safe lead.
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Thanks for the report Josh. I do not know what to say but you and Brad did an amazing job. Best wishes for all and heal fast.
Cheers Jeff Stroh
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Thanks for posting up Josh. This is a crazy story that brings tears to my every time I read about it, partially because of my own experience this year with a helicopter. Leaving my sweetie at that lake in 60 lake basin and hiking like mad to find a Ranger, I experienced a full range of emotions while hiking out not knowing whether she would be alive when I returned. There is nothing like those tense yet clear moments when you are doing your best to save another life. Brad and Josh, you did amazing things that day. It's already been said but it can't be said enough, you guys are heros.
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Thanks Josh. I'm sure writing this must have been incredibly difficult for you. I'm glad you did though and even more respect for you guys. Makes me think about re-upping my WFR cert and then some.
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Good job Josh.
I Check the site every day hoping for news of good results from surgery and now rehab. Positive vibes going your way
How is your injury josh?
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Good to hear from you and I think we all appreciate the update. Very amazing. Lars was in good hands.
Hope you all get well soon.
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Rob
The whole day I did not notice my left arm. Some abrasions and bleeding but everything was working fine. Driving home, I lost feeling in my left hand. Then I could not steer the car with the left arm. My forearm swelled up double the size near a laceration from the boulder. My wrist was not moving and the tendons felt like they were severed.
Go to the same hospital as lars (on my way already, convienent? yes.) Xrays and they come back with "crushed arm syndrom" or something. Very wierd. 2 days later my arm is 100%.
Sorry for the confusion, the last thing I told brad was that I think I broke my wrist and was in the hospital. So, not his mistake for listing that injury in his post.
Thanks everyone, I am going to see lars after he gets some time without visitors. He has had a lot of friends and family around him every day.
Best,
Josh
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Do you know if Lars is out of ICU?
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He was transferred to San Raphael Kaiser. New battery of tests, scans and checkups by his own docs. Shoulder surgury this week. Lars is still in the ICU there, probably until he gets out of surgery. I hear he is 75% in the old noggin in terms of memory which is great news.
l will hopefully have a full report by mid week when I can go see him again.
I will bring the cheer from everyone when I do.
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Great to hear Lars is back near his home. If someone wants to PM me his mailing address in San Rafael I will send a card.
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Glad to see you posting again, Rob. I had meant to post up myself about your go on Lava Falls, how impressed Gavin and I were with your tenacity and sheer guts. It was inspirational. In all the ado, I forgot to do that.
Way to go for it, man. It was fun to finally tie in with you.
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wow Josh...unbelievable...
abrazos fuerte
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I don't know Lars but would love to send him one of my special Christmas cards, could I also get his address?
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How is Lars doing ? Josh, how are you ?
Brad, you are far too gracious :redface:
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Saw Lars today, he was doing great! Got a chance to talk and laugh. The road to recovery is Long, but he is has a strong will and the determination to get back to 100%
Thanks to all of the kind wishes, I have not told him about this thread yet, but when he is ready I will let the floodgates of support here open wide.
Best,
Josh
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Is he out of ICU?
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Whoops!
Out of ICU, and was transferred to his hospital Kaiser in San Raphael.
today he was moved to a rehabilitation clinic that is part of the hospital, to begin his physical therapy.
Immobile for 8 weeks (no load bearing), but is going to be ok.
I will ask his wife where to have cards and such sent to.
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cool, thx for the update
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Looks like Lars is recovering nicely !
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2029095/Olympic-Rain-Forest-TR (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2029095/Olympic-Rain-Forest-TR)
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Climbing magazine's write up of this event just came out in the recent issue.
Reminds me, I need to get into a WFA class.
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Yeah I read that and almost sent a shout out. Mine lapsed like 8 years ago:-) i need a refresher....
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Nah, just don't get hurt.
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Nah, just don't get hurt.
yeah, been doing that since I was 11. Fortunately it's worked so far, but I'm playing the odds here. Seeing the fast action on Splatter Matt by Stacy got me thinking more clearly about it, and this year I've been trying to get into a Foster Calm WFA class. Bobbie is highly recommended. I bet you remember that name.
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I just started reading this thread and started to get upset that someone just got hurt. Then I realized that this was from a few years back. The climbing magazine article was good. Didn't Brad say something about never climbing at Pinnacles again?
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Didn't Brad say something about never climbing at Pinnacles again?
No I didn't and wouldn't say that.
What isn't super clear from the article is that Lars was terribly hurt twice in two decades the only two times he's been at this same project. I won't ever go back to that project - it seems jinxed. And I'm glad Lars isn't going back to it too.
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I just started reading this thread and started to get upset that someone just got hurt. Then I realized that this was from a few years back. The climbing magazine article was good. Didn't Brad say something about never climbing at Pinnacles again?
Is this the same article?
http://www.climbing.com/people/everyday-hero-ii-true-teamwork/
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But as Brad stated, it was not a climbing accident!
Glad all turned out well in the end.