MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2012, 12:35:25 PM

Title: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2012, 12:35:25 PM
Heads up to any would be leaders on the 5.8 route on Smiling Simian.

That big right face hold/cobble is flexing over an 1/8th of an inch with nominal pressure.

It's possible to avoid it with some moves, but as a foothold stepping on it keeps it 5.8.

I used it as a foothold by stepping close to the attachment point and kept most of my weight off of it.

I don't think it will last thru any big pulls using it as a hand hold.





sidenote: GameShow has a big fat red sling at the anchors. Anyone want to work on that this month and replace that sling with some camo chain?



Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: F4? on January 03, 2012, 01:10:56 PM
Did you put an X on the hold?

Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: mynameismud on January 03, 2012, 01:27:07 PM
I should.  Not sure if I will though.  Those anchors need a chain since there is almost always a big hunk of tat there.  Do to the water run off the webbing seldom lasts more than a year.
Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2012, 02:16:51 PM
that brown tat was there for multiple years, it just looked like shit.


let's do this thing Mud!
Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: F4? on January 03, 2012, 03:37:49 PM
Just be careful with Mr Mud. He might slip in a CF memory card of someone's vacation in your jacket....then you are in trouble.
Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: mynameismud on January 03, 2012, 07:28:02 PM
Well if I get back to that thing I will have to commit to getting it clean.  I only have the left hand route to do.  Think that I have gotten it but not sure.  So if I am going back it will have to take a commitment of at least a Month of Sundays since that is probably how long it will take for me to get that dam thing.  If we get rain any time soon I am screwed.  Actually maybe this is what it will take to bring in the rainy season.
Title: Re: Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose
Post by: F4? on January 03, 2012, 07:31:44 PM
Dude, my joke about finding a memory card went right over your head...