MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Gavin on February 02, 2012, 08:46:33 AM
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Updated 30 June 2025
The Raptor Advisory System has been in effect since 1988. We would like to thank you for your assistance in protecting these magnificent birds. By coming to Pinnacles and following these recommendations, you become a partner in managing the Park's resources. You are a vital component to the success of maintaining raptors. Without your cooperation, park staff could not protect the natural resources. You help make Pinnacles a special place.
Sensitive Areas
Please refrain from any rock climbing or off-trail activity within the boundaries of the following routes. Climbing routes are listed to provide orientation to sensitive areas and may not be all inclusive.
Thank you for your cooperation in the Park's efforts to protect these magnificent Natural Resources. If you have any questions, please contact a Ranger or call Research and Resource Management (831-389-4486 x4279).
Balconies / Crowley
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Machete Ridge
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
High Peaks:
Citadel
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Egg
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Hawkins Peak
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Tunnel Trail and Central High Peaks
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Resurrection Wall / Goat Rock
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Scout Peak:
Beak Peak
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Generation Gap Pinnacle
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Gargoyle Area
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Marmot / Yaks Area (Little Pinnacles)
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Reservoir
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Pipsqueak Pinnacles
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Updated 30 June 2025
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Nice job Gavin for being....crystal clear on what's open and not.
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huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.
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Insert Quote
huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.
Always a critic in the crowd...
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huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.
Munge, you are correct: Bongloadash, If We Bolt It..., and Happy Hamlin's... are also in the initial closures, as are all routes on Crowley... I missed that, and I'll change that in future lists. Thanks for the keen eye!
And thanks for the support, F4!
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drats! and I would have got away with it, if it wasn't for that meddling munge and his climbing buddies!
;)
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drats! and I would have got away with it, if it wasn't for that meddling munge and his climbing buddies!
;)
Heh heh. Seriously, though, I appreciate the critical eye... It will make for more accurate closure lists in the future.
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Good god....why would someone go do if we bolt it...that sucker gets way too hot.
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I guess I missed this....
Old Original is open?
any preliminary ideas on who is nesting where?
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I usually nest in the parking lot, though few have brought me beers lately.
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I usually nest in the parking lot, though few have brought me beers lately.
nice, but if it's super cold....my favorite place is next to the fireplace @ the Inn @ Pinnacles.
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I guess I missed this....
Old Original is open?
any preliminary ideas on who is nesting where?
Joe, Old Original is open... If memory serves, I don't think it has ever been part of the closure lists. There are some potential cavity nest sites in the area, but none have ever been documented as being used by falcons.
As for preliminary ideas... It is still a bit far off to be certain, but it looks like some of the usual areas will definitely be used for nesting, such as Hawkins Peak (by the resident peregrine falcon pair), Egg / Chaos Crag, Balconies (two prairie falcon pairs look interested), Machete, Crowley, and Goat / Resurrection Wall.
More details will be forthcoming when the birds finally decide on nest sites.
I do think there will be some areas opening up for sure, but I want to wait until the falcons begin incubating eggs before I make it official.
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Gavin or anyone else,
can you tell me if Bynum's, Dragonfly, the Cone or Pyramid Pinnacle are okay to climb right now?
It looks like they sit in between the sensitive areas.
thanks!
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Bynum's is closed.
Gavin or anyone else,
can you tell me if Bynum's, Dragonfly, the Cone or Pyramid Pinnacle are okay to climb right now?
It looks like they sit in between the sensitive areas.
thanks!
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Bynum's is closed.
thanks Mud - whoops! sorry - I see that listed under Hawkins Peak now. Any idea about the others?
and do you know what the etc. below includes?
Okay: Spike’s Peak, Big Step, The Lump, etc.
Okay: Sponge
others around the Sponge? Burgundy, Piglet, Sow
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Looks like the Sponge and Spikes Peak is open.
Here is a link to the map
http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/upload/January-2012-Advisory-Handout-And-Map.pdf (http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/upload/January-2012-Advisory-Handout-And-Map.pdf)
thanks Mud - whoops! sorry - I see that listed under Hawkins Peak now. Any idea about the others?
and do you know what the etc. below includes?
Okay: Spike’s Peak, Big Step, The Lump, etc.
Okay: Sponge
others around the Sponge? Burgundy, Piglet, Sow
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thanks Mud - I had the pdf map and listing already but I appreciate you trying to help. I sent Gavin a PM to see if he has any more specifics.
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Send Brad a PM to, he always has a good handle on this.
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thanks Mud - I had the pdf map and listing already but I appreciate you trying to help. I sent Gavin a PM to see if he has any more specifics.
Sorry for the delayed reply; I've been out climbing today on the east side and just got this message... I'll try to clarify some of the advisory information.
Sponge and Spike's Peak are open. Areas around Sponge like Burgundy Dome, Piglet and Sow are also open. Formations just north and east of Spike's Peak - Dragonfly, Eggshell, Freedom Dome, Disintegration Pinnacles - are likewise also open. Pot and Peyote Pinnacles are also open. The areas around Frothy and Frosted Flakes - east towards Smokestack, southeast towards Mama and Papa Bears and Chuck and Carol, southwest towards Tuff and H&L Domes, and towards Feather Canyon - tend to be where the peregrine falcon pair is specifically focused, and where historic nest nests are located. Hence, all these areas are part of the advisory area at Hawkins. The open areas listed above are either far enough distant, or out of view enough, that the falcons have no territorial issues with climbers.
As for the "etc." after Lump and Big Step... I think this was initially written in reference to climbs further east and southeast, but it is vague; I'll drop this word in future advisory listings.
I hope all that helps!
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Hey All -
I'll send out a formal list to Mr Mud soon for an official update, but most falcons have finally selected nests, and there are some updates... No new closures, but definitely some openings.
Some of the areas that will be opening up:
- the central and north parts of Balconies, from Conduit to Nexus
- all of the central High Peaks (Condor Crag, Fingers, etc.)
- Goat Rock, Shaft, Beak Peak, Scout Peak, Generation Gap Pinnacle
- Pipsqueak Pinnacle
The partial advisory at Machete will stay into effect. I still need to nail down falcon status at the Yaks Wall... More on that when I get conclusive observations.
Let me know if you have questions and I'll try to reply as I can!
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No new closures, but definitely some openings.
Woo hoo! ;D
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Finally! The highly coveted Piqsqueak Pinnacle emerges!!!
LOL, just messin. As if anyone would go beyond Disco. :)
Gavin, awesome work parsing the specific areas to maximize recreation and at the same time protect the natural resource. A model of community and government partnership, IMHO.
Thank you for the diligent work!!
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much appreciated Gavin,
excellent timing too since we are headed "up" this weekend.
Pipsqueak's Reg Route was my 5th lead followed by the Anvil.
the High Peaks is High Adventure!(shhhhhh...don't tell anyone!)
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wow that is awesome thank you
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A model of community and government partnership, IMHO.
Thank you for the diligent work!!
:thumbup:
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Rightfoot on Pipsqueak is worth a toprope, if you're in the neighbor hood.
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Glad to hear folks are excited.
Please note: I haven't yet had a chance to update bulletin boards, advisory brochures, or websites (NPS, FOP, etc.), but will try to get to those as I can in the next week or so.
For Balconies: please note that everything from Peregrine and south / west is still under advisory. I will put up a new advisory sign between Conduit and Peregrine, but in the meantime just keep in mind that the advisory sign along the Balconies Cliff Trail refers to the remaining partial advisory at Balconies... Those in the know can proceed onto Conduit, Lava Falls, or anything north of there. When lowering from any of the Balconies climbs, please rappel down and do NOT walk off the top of the first tier summit of Balconies, as this area is still under advisory. Thanks!
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Thanks Gavin.
Piglet is still the best route up in the high peaks!
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Piglet is still the best route up in the high peaks!
were you there on Jan 15th just before the closures? KC and i were up there talking to two guys that had just done St Valentine's and they rec'd Piglet - so we did that while they were on Burgundy and then we swapped. i did have fun on Piglet - my 1st 5.8 and Burgundy scared the buhgeezus outta me(my first 5.7) but i have to say that Dragonfly this past weekend was AWESOME! i nearly soiled myself...twice...
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Just a heads up on closure signs. I updated the General Balconies area by taking down the main trailside sign and putting one up near Peregrine to reflect the partial closures at Balconies. I haven't taken down the sign near Scout Peak yet but rest assured all routes near Scout and Beak Peaks are open... Feel free to hike around that sign if you're looking to climb at the south end of the High Peaks. I should be able to take down the Scout Peak sign this week.
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Maybe
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ATTENTION! New areas are now open, due to prairie falcon status:
- Machete: all climbs now open, no sensitive routes.
- Yaks Wall, North Yak, South Yak: all climbs now open, no sensitive routes.
The Machete prairie falcon nest failed, and the Yaks falcon pair never committed to nesting. Given the time in the breeding season, it is too late for them to try re-nesting.
I may have one more update before the end of the season, within the next couple of weeks.
Should be cooler weather this weekend!
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woo hoo!
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Thx Gavin!
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Sorry to hear Gavin. Maybe Joe can help the Yaks pair work through thier commitment issues.
On a serious not, better to see a pair succeed and not be able to climb.
Any winged birds on Resurrection?? I say winged given that there were condors active as well.
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Thank you for the update
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were you there on Jan 15th just before the closures? KC and i were up there talking to two guys that had just done St Valentine's and they rec'd Piglet - so we did that while they were on Burgundy and then we swapped. i did have fun on Piglet - my 1st 5.8 and Burgundy scared the buhgeezus outta me(my first 5.7) but i have to say that Dragonfly this past weekend was AWESOME! i nearly soiled myself...twice...
Yep, that was Bratton (F4) and I.
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Who little me? I've never climbed in the high peaks.
Mr Mud, can you do a word swith for me name....to F4???
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Sorry to hear Gavin. Maybe Joe can help the Yaks pair work through thier commitment issues.
On a serious not, better to see a pair succeed and not be able to climb.
Any winged birds on Resurrection?? I say winged given that there were condors active as well.
Yep, there is a prairie falcon pair nesting at Resurrection. They seem to be doing well, with 5 nestlings developing fast.
Oh, and I agree about seeing nests succeed, but I'm also happy to revise advisories as the season develops.
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"F4???"
you only got one ? !!!!
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Gavin, we were on Toog's Gallery on the 13th. It was a quiet, lovely morning, but there was a very unhappy prairie falcon above us on Machete - restless flights to the Balconies and back, much vocalizing. What went wrong up there?
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Bob - I'll forward you Gavin's email in response to my concern after our adventure. All's well-
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Gavin, we were on Toog's Gallery on the 13th. It was a quiet, lovely morning, but there was a very unhappy prairie falcon above us on Machete - restless flights to the Balconies and back, much vocalizing. What went wrong up there?
Yeah, CruxLuv contacted me via email to ask about this same day. From Toog's I'm fairly sure the prairie falcon was not particularly concerned about you. Falcons wail and call for a number of reasons, sometimes just to announce territorial presence, sometimes to communicate with mates, nestlings, etc. The falcon in question may have been more irritable and restless than normal as its nest site at Machete recently failed (I confirmed nest failure at Machete on May 14.) ... I have noticed similar behavior before right after nest failures. The adult female prairie falcon has been regularly using a territorial perch on the NW end of Machete as well, and the Machete pair has been occupying both Machete and General Balconies throughout the season. Usually you know that a falcon is particularly stressed by your presence because it will call rapidly, loudly, and hoarsely while diving at you or circling very close to your position. That is a good time to retreat from the area!
Anyway, I hope that helps... I will continue to check out the area in the very unlikely event that the Machete pair attempts to re-nest.
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Yep, that was Bratton (F4) and I.
mystery solved! the "Piglet is the best climb" comment gave it away...
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Usually you know that a falcon is particularly stressed by your presence because it will call rapidly, loudly, and hoarsely while diving at you or circling very close to your position. That is a good time to retreat from the area!
Wise words..In another country, while climbing I had a Starling dive bom me and I did get me on the neck several times. Then there are the Baboons.....
I shutter to think what a raptor would do even a chickenhawk (they seem to always find a club)?
Squiddo, don't lie. That must have been Mungie and a partner. He's always up there or @ Crowley Towers.
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I shutter to think what a raptor would do even a chickenhawk (they seem to always find a club)?
"Lump-teen-dozen and a-doo-dah day...DOO-Dah! DOO-Dah!"
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Yeah, CruxLuv contacted me via email to ask about this same day. From Toog's I'm fairly sure the prairie falcon was not particularly concerned about you. Falcons wail and call for a number of reasons, sometimes just to announce territorial presence, sometimes to communicate with mates, nestlings, etc. The falcon in question may have been more irritable and restless than normal as its nest site at Machete recently failed (I confirmed nest failure at Machete on May 14.) ... I have noticed similar behavior before right after nest failures. The adult female prairie falcon has been regularly using a territorial perch on the NW end of Machete as well, and the Machete pair has been occupying both Machete and General Balconies throughout the season. Usually you know that a falcon is particularly stressed by your presence because it will call rapidly, loudly, and hoarsely while diving at you or circling very close to your position. That is a good time to retreat from the area!
Anyway, I hope that helps... I will continue to check out the area in the very unlikely event that the Machete pair attempts to re-nest.
Cool, thx Gavin!
When a 'nest fails' does that have a scientific or more technical meaning? Or is it a general term to describe any number of causes for not reproducing? I guess I'm curious if 'fails' means the pair actively worked on the nest and laid eggs, but the eggs broke, we're eaten by rats, eaten by another bird, or if the birds failed to do the dirty deed at all and conception failed... then they abandon the nest after no eggs? Just not sure of the timing of a failure.
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When a 'nest fails' ...?
Ya beat me to it! I'm curious too-
Also wondering if there has been an increase or decrease in recent years.
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Perhaps they sense hungry climbers in the hood.
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And it was hot enough to fry an egg a couple weeks ago...
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And it was hot enough to fry and egg a couple weeks ago...
Damn, you come up with some wingers. It took me a second to even get this one.
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Cool, thx Gavin!
When a 'nest fails' does that have a scientific or more technical meaning? Or is it a general term to describe any number of causes for not reproducing? I guess I'm curious if 'fails' means the pair actively worked on the nest and laid eggs, but the eggs broke, we're eaten by rats, eaten by another bird, or if the birds failed to do the dirty deed at all and conception failed... then they abandon the nest after no eggs? Just not sure of the timing of a failure.
Munge (and CruxLuv), as you are guessing, a "nest failure" refers to a cavity nest that a prairie falcon pair laid eggs into, or hatched nestlings from, that subsequently failed due to a few possible reasons (nest predators, human disturbance, extreme weather, etc.). In closure updates, I only refer to active nests in a given season that have been confirmed through observations. The Yaks prairie falcon pair did not nest this year but occupied the territory (along with Hanging Valley). Although they are continuing to loosely occupy those areas, it is too late in the season for them to begin nesting, and at any rate they are not exhibiting any behavior that would suggest they are considering a late season effort (they seem to be a very young pair that haven't quite figured it out).
In general, nesting efforts - where falcons lay eggs and proceed to incubate them - are rarely started later than March / April at Pinnacles. However, I did just confirm a prairie falcon pair in a remote slide wall area of the park that laid eggs early in the season, failed to hatch young, and have subsequently re-nested and laid a 2nd clutch of eggs. It is the first confirmed 2nd clutch prairie falcon attempt observed at Pinnacles in over 10 years. So... even though a 2nd clutch attempt by the Machete / General Balconies falcon pair is unlikely this year, it is possible, so I'll continue to keep an eye on those birds.
Probably more information than you wanted, but I hope that helps!
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Probably more information than you wanted
Not at all! Muy interesante! Gracias-
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laid a 2nd clutch of eggs. It is the first confirmed 2nd clutch prairie falcon attempt observed at Pinnacles in over 10 years
yes, very interesting, thx!!!
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Attention all! I am lifting all climbing advisories today, and will remove advisory signs / update advisory bulletin boards over the next couple of days. So, all climbs at Pinnacles are now open for climbing again.
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Whoop whoop!! 8)
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that answers that question - here we go!
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Advisories Have been updated.
Please avoid the Sensitive areas.
Thanks
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Thanks for the update, Mud. If folks have any questions, give me a shout!
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Advisories Have been updated.
Please avoid the Sensitive areas.
Thanks
Thanks Mud!
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Thanks Mud.
Please avoid my sensitive areas while you are at it. ;D
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definitely
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hey guys!
I'm trying to get some aid practice, as well as some solo aid practice in on the west side. My first instinct would be to go do the first pitches of sons of the west or son of dawn, but since there closed i'm wondering if the regular route on the balconies is still aidable. It appears to be an aid ladder in the topo but is listed at 10b. just thought i'd ask before i head out there. Open to any other suggestions of good aid routes to practice solo technique? thanks.
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Drew-
The balconies is closed as of a few weeks ago. There is a detailed description of the closed areas here on the site, as well as FOP friends of pinnacles.
Son of dawn's 1st pitch is not closed, only the pitches above. It is a great route to practice Solo aid on.
Have fun!
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Lucky 13 is a bolt ladder under it's free climbing veneer.
If doing Son of Dawn P1, the trees make a good anchor. Don't do what I did. :)
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Gavin your a mod so feel free to change this at anytime. Or, you can send me an email. what ever works
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Thanks, Mr Mud. I'll be happy to update the sticky as necessary. I'll let you know if I have any problems!
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Hey All -
Advisories have been updated, so let me know if you have questions or need clarifications. A few highlights: Machete is totally open for climbing, Scout and Beak Peaks are totally open for climbing, and the main walls of Balconies are open for climbing. For Scout and Beak Peaks, the advisory sign is still affixed, up south behind the outhouse, but applies only to Goat Rock and Resurrection Wall... Ignore it for climbing at Scout and Beak Peaks. For Balconies, please be aware that the south-end access - leading to south-side climbs and Balconies roof climbs - should still be avoided, and for all main wall routes, descend from the climbs via rappel, and not through Balconies roof walk-offs. (I know this is what the vast majority of people do, but I just want to mention it for clarification purposes.)
So... Anyone up for a bit of Balconies climbing one of these weekends?...
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thanks for the update Gavin!
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Where did the birds go?
Thanks!
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So... Anyone up for a bit of Balconies climbing one of these weekends?...
Lava Falls and Shake and Bake? Maybe your wife can lead since she has bagged POD?
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F4: the birds are still around and nesting, but I "think" the updated advisories with more open areas should still balance the needs of the falcons with climber access. Of course I will continue to monitor the nesting situation and update if needed.
Aaron: my wife is likely out of town this weekend but around thereafter. Send me an email and we can set a time to get out climbing.
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this is really cool.
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Good to hear they are still there.
I'm sure the Turkey Vultures are still waiting for Mr. Mud....they seem to circle when he's hiking back to the car.
My question stemmed from many, many moons ago ( when the big flood hit that took out the W-side campground and the E-Side bridge) the birds didn't do so well. I didn't hear why, but we were able to climb on the Hand back then in April.
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Hey gang -
Just wanted to let everyone know that the climbing advisories have been lifted for the rest of the year; I updated the beginning of this thread to that effect.
I sent an email to a few folks with an update as to the breeding raptors summary for the year but thought some others might be interested in reading it here as well. The update follows below:
Here is an update as to the status of raptors at Pinnacles for the past month.
The raptor nesting season is finally wrapping up, and it has been a productive year for prairie falcons (PRFA). In fact, the 2013 breeding season has been the most productive on record for PRFA, with 10 nests successfully fledging 43 young. The peregrine falcon (PEFA) pair at Hawkins also succeeded in fledging 3 young. An 11th PRFA nest attempt - late in the season - appeared ready to fledge 3 more young, but recently failed (possibly due to predation or the intense heat we have been experiencing this past week). A 12th PRFA pair, and a 2nd PEFA pair, occupied territories this year but were not confirmed nesting. Falcon breeding information is listed below:
Resurrection Wall: PRFA nest, fledged 5 young
Egg: PRFA nest, fledged 5 young
South Balcones: PRFA nest, fledged 3 young
Crowley Towers: PRFA nest, fledged 4 young
Citadel: PRFA nest, fledged 4 young
Pig Canyon: PRFA nest, fledged 3 young
Drywall: PRFA nest, fledged 4 young
Willow Spring Slide: PRFA nest, fledged 5 young
North Chalone Peak: PRFA nest, fledged 5 young
NE Section 15: PRFA nest, fledged 5 young
South Chalone Peak: PRFA pair, no nesting confirmed
Little Pinnacles / Yaks Wall: PRFA nest, failed
Hawkins Peak: PEFA nest, fledged 3 young
Crowley Towers / North Balconies: PEFA pair, no nesting confirmed
In general, falcon breeding activity was unusually productive this season. Although we have no direct evidence explaining this high productivity, we have noticed very limited great-horned owl activity this year, both in regards to occupancy and nesting at Pinnacles. Great horned-owls are one of the main nest predators of PRFA nests. Low owl numbers this year could help to explain the high success rate of PRFA nests in 2013.
Please note that climbing and hiking advisories are no longer in effect and all advisories have been lifted as of this week. We will be removing remaining advisory signs and updating bulletin board posters this week to reflect these changes. Thank you to all staff and visitors for respecting the advisories and contributing to raptor nest successes this year. Your ongoing efforts are sincerely appreciated!
Other breeding raptors observed in the park through June and early July include golden eagles (GOEA), red-tailed hawks (RTHA), and red-shouldered hawks (RSHA) at the following areas:
North Chalone Peak: GOEA nest
Butterfield Canyon: RTHA nest
Rose Canyon: RTHA nest
Western Front: RTHA nest
Lower Condor Gulch: RTHA nest
Frog/Hand: RTHA nest
Grassy Canyon: RTHA nest
Pinnacles Campground: 2 RSHA nests
Bench Trail / Fire Road junction: RSHA nest
McCabe Canyon: RSHA nest
4 Cooper’s hawk nests and 1 sharp-shinned hawk nest have been documented in 2013 along riparian corridors. American kestrels have been active throughout the park, and 10 nests were confirmed this year. Two white-tailed kite pairs built stick constructs this year in the bottomlands but did not successfully nest.
Thank you to all the staff and visitors that have continued to provide me with raptor observations; every detail on raptor behavior helps to provide a more complete picture of raptor breeding at the park. If anyone on staff wishes to report raptor observations as the season wraps up, I would greatly appreciate it if you please fill out a wildlife observation card, and deposit it in my box in the RRM Office, or give it to me or Nate Melling in person.
In particular, thanks to the Resources weed crew, Carlo Arreglo, Autumn Young, Michelle Armijo, Jennie Jones, Danielle Powell, Paul Johnson, Richard Neihardt, Joseph Belli, Dan Ryan, Linda Regan, Rachel Wolstenholme, Nate Melling, and Alacia Welch for raptor observations. I appreciate the support!
If you have any observations within the park to report, or any raptor-related questions, please contact me through email or extension 276. Thanks!
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Nice try Gavin! I'm not climbing at Pinnacles until the heat mellows out. ;)
heh
Very curious that the owls are down and the falcons up in volume.
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thanks Gavin!
Unlike munge I will be there nearly every weekend!!!
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Good to hear, JC... It's only supposed to be 95 degrees this Saturday! (Hey, by the afternoon it should be fine in the shade...)
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To Munge on the question of owl and falcon numbers: I can't say for certain that lower great-horned owl numbers are related to higher falcon productivity this year, but it is a guess.
I don't have any information on why great-horned owl numbers might be down... Different raptor species (like most wildlife) do go through cycles of "boom and bust" years, so it could just be that. Or, perhaps other factors - weather last year, disease within the species, etc. - played roles. Since great-horned owls aren't a target species, there is only limited information we gather for them every year. We did have occupancy and breeding records this year for other owls (like long-eared owls and barn owls), so other owl species seemed to be more consistently prevalent and productive. We'll see over time if any patterns and trends emerge.
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Gavin,
Any idea when the impending date will start for 2014?
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Aaron, I'm not Gavin, but I just checked in and saw your post. It's almost always the Tuesday after the Martin Luther King holiday in January (in fact, I can't recall when that wasn't the day that the closures kicked in).
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Do we have to start talking about this already? I thought this was something that remained silent until the impending day is very near. Kind of like how when backpacking, it's an unspoken rule to not talk about what or where you will eat after returning to civilization, until the final day.
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Yes Aaron, its about the birds civil rights. You can shut your door for privacy and so can they.
Everyone/thing can have a dream,
I saw a large hawk hanging out yesterday over hwy 1, I swear he/she was daydreaming. This particular bird would not chill at Pinns, to quiet out there, be missing the highway noise. Those 18 wheelers make it's day.
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Do we have to start talking about this already? I thought this was something that remained silent until the impending day is very near. Kind of like how when backpacking, it's an unspoken rule to not talk about what or where you will eat after returning to civilization, until the final day.
CRAP, wait that's a rule? NO wonder my partners hate me.....I'm usually a mile from the car on the START talking about ice cold beers and burgers....
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CRAP, wait that's a rule? NO wonder my partners hate me.....I'm usually a mile from the car on the START talking about ice cold beers and burgers....
Barn fever? Or is it beer fever?
Without the closures, folks would get bored from climbing Lava Falls all the time. So the birds are doing us a favor, right?
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CRAP, wait that's a rule? NO wonder my partners hate me.....I'm usually a mile from the car on the START talking about ice cold beers and burgers....
When I get a mile from the car I start my second beer of the trip...
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Without the closures, folks would get bored from climbing Lava Falls all the time. So the birds are doing us a favor, right?
What? Lava Falls is popular? I guess I can't climb it then - besides...Piglet is the best climb in the Monument :)
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no way, my routes are!
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When I get a mile from the car I start my second beer of the trip...
LOL nice
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What? Lava Falls is popular? I guess I can't climb it then - besides...Piglet is the best climb in the Monument :)
all 20 feet of it ;D Highball downclimb
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Do we have to start talking about this already? I thought this was something that remained silent until the impending day is very near. Kind of like how when backpacking, it's an unspoken rule to not talk about what or where you will eat after returning to civilization, until the final day.
sounds like bigwall rules as well
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no one talks about going down. that's all. :nono:
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and leave the hammer in the bag.
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zactly.
;D
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You two need to go to welding class.
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Hey All -
In regards to advisories/closures going into effect: Brad guessed right. They will be put into effect the day after MLK Day, on Tuesday, January 21st. This is your 2 week notice! Advisories should apply with usual, beginning-of-season coverage: Balconies will all be under advisory, but Machete will have a partial advisory applied to it again. Yaks Wall, H&L Dome, Tuff Dome, Scout Peak, Resurrection Wall, and Goat Rock will have advisories in effect as well.
I'll update the leader text for this thread as the 21st draws closer.
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Hey Gavin,
I just read this thread and its impressive. The details of the 2013 report totals are beyond anything I thought was going on at Pinns. You should do a NG documentary on this. Great work.
On a different note, we have been cleaning up a lot of daily litter on the trails. Gross negligence bordering on premeditated.
Other than starting to issue hiking licences, where visitors must pass a class and test, what to do???
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what to do???
Carry a garbage bag. I can offer further advice offline.
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I have also noticed the increase in trash and used TP in the High Peaks Area. Two weekends ago trailside I saw some soiled underpants with about a whole roll of TP scattered around them. Needless to say, I was not prepared to clean up something like that, and it was a shocker. Like JC said maybe this weekend I'll do the trail with a garbage bag.
The other thing that shocked me was the increase in trail braiding through the switchbacks on the Southern portion of the Tunnel Trail. I had not walked that portion of the trail since last year and it is definitely worse for the wear.
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I have also noticed the increase in trash and used TP in the High Peaks Area. Two weekends ago trailside I saw some soiled underpants with about a whole roll of TP scattered around them. Needless to say, I was not prepared to clean up something like that, and it was a shocker. Like JC said maybe this weekend I'll do the trail with a garbage bag.
The other thing that shocked me was the increase in trail braiding through the switchbacks on the Southern portion of the Tunnel Trail. I had not walked that portion of the trail since last year and it is definitely worse for the wear.
I've also noticed both problems; both are as bad as I've ever seen. The trail braiding on the trail to the High Peaks from the West Side is literally destroying trails.
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I saw some soiled underpants with about a whole roll of TP scattered around them. The other thing that shocked me was the increase in trail braiding through the switchbacks on the Southern portion of the Tunnel Trail.
Add some baby wipes and small bottle of hand sanitizer to the list.
We could stand to have trail day on the west side focusing on piling cobble size rocks into the "braids".
Large enough to stay in place and make walking over them on a slope treacherous.
It might be easier and faster but not as aesthetic to do the pound in fence posts with green mesh to block the entrances/exits.
Do we need to start a new topic?
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Probably a new topic. Maybe Gavin could call James' attention to it?
And instead of rocks, dead branches (some big ones) are really effective at re-directing braids (look at how we did it around the Discovery Wall area in October).
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Hey All -
I'm just about to post the updated Climbing Advisories on the first page of this thread, but wanted to respond briefly about the trash and trail braiding problems first.
I really appreciate the responses about trash / trail braiding and absolutely agree that the problems have gotten worse... In the 11+ years I've been working here (and the few before that when I was also hiking / climbing here), the trash and trail braiding are the worst I have seen. The trail braiding is bad in many places but I agree that it is particularly shocking along the Tunnel Trail. As someone who lives and works at the Pinns, is is so frustrating to see this place we love getting degraded.
As for things to do about it. First, I strongly recommend that each and every person commenting here sends personalized emails on the subjects directly on to our trails foreman James (james_bouknight@nps.gov)... You can CC me (gavin_emmons@nps.gov) as well if you'd like. Bruce Hildenbrand already sent a couple of emails on these subjects, and I think the more we receive, the better, as the emails help to document visitor concerns with the problems.
Second, organizing clean-up days (of trash and degraded trails) are great ideas. As many of you probably know, Pinnacles gained National Park designation a year ago, and that has definitely contributed to greater visitation (and visitor impacts) here. What you may not know is that the National Park designation brought absolutely no new money to the park, for more staff, maintenance, or anything else. With shrinking federal budgets and sequestration effects, the capacity of NPS personnel to adequately respond to park needs - law enforcement, trail maintenance, etc. - has been strained even further. Right now, we basically do not have a trails crew due to the funding cutbacks.
With these things in mind, any efforts on your part to remove trash and tend to braided trails are invaluable. I'm sure James would be thrilled to have folks agree on times to come out and have focused days of litter clean-up and trail repair. On my end, I have tried to organize trash clean-up days a couple times a year for NPS staff to be a part of, but of course the trash keeps on coming.
I am hoping to keep pushing the idea of having (more or less) mandatory trash clean-up days for Pinnacles staff, at least a couple times a year. Beyond that, we should work with James to organize some days when we can mobilize enough folks to bring down the trash load and work on trail projects. I would guess that with enough people, even a few hours in a day would have a substantial effect... And still leave some time for climbing afterwards. ;)
Okay, enough for now... Advisory updates coming soon.
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thx Gavin
Does this...
we basically do not have a trails crew due to the funding cutbacks.
mean that we couldn't organize another volunteer trail day this year?
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E-mails sent. Thanks, Gavin.
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thx Gavin
Does this...
mean that we couldn't organize another volunteer trail day this year?
No, sorry for the confusion: James is the trails foreman and he is definitely working here, and would (I'm sure) be thrilled for another volunteer trail day. Other than him, though, there is basically no one else on staff working on the trails crew at the moment. (The one seasonal trails guy that was working for James had recently re-injured a knee that had undergone surgery and will potentially be unavailable for trail work for some time.)
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E-mails sent. Thanks, Gavin.
Thanks for the effort!
It looks like I might have posted James' email wrong before... It is edited and correct now, and I forwarded your message to James' correct email address.
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Time for a Shameless Plug....
The MoM (Master of Mud) weekend is set for April 18>20.
Yes, it's Easter Sunday, but it was the best I could do.
A good weekend to organize something....
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Hey all, just a heads-up that I just updated the climbing advisories based on falcons and other raptors confirmed nesting at the park so far this year. Let me know if you need additional details. It may take me several days to update other official advisory information (in brochures, online, on bulletin boards, and in regards to advisory signs), but I'll get to them as I can.
Of note, we have two nesting peregrine falcon pairs (in addition to 10 nesting prairie falcon pairs so far) for 2014. One pair of peregrines is nesting in the Tuff Dome / H&L Dome area (as has been the case the past 7 years or so) and the other pair is nesting at Balconies. This is the first time in over 50 years that a peregrine falcon pair has nested on the west side at Pinnacles and that we have had 2 pairs of peregrines nesting at the park in the same year.
The historical significance is even more interesting because the Balconies area was identified as a "falcon sanctuary" or "peregrine area" on the 1920s and 1930s park maps... Even back then, park managers were aware of the value of the cliffs for prairie and peregrine falcon nesting, and this served as one of the main justifications to include Balconies (and Machete) within the park boundaries back in the day.
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thanks Gavin! that opens up some stuff I'd like to get back to.
time to beat the feet to beat the heat :)
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Nice! Let me know if you ever need another person out there to climb with.
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Gavin, congrats on the dual peregrine sites.
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Thanks Gavin!
Sounds like Condor Crags is back in the picture now.
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mmmmm...Mongo need finish outstanding FA's - resume career as High Peaks Freak :)
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Gavin, that's great news about the Peregrines!
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I am convinced the advent of a second pair of peregrines is because of the high quality ascents that occurred just prior to the nesting season in the sensitive areas. On a raw,evolutionary level the peregrines felt and adopted the "we can do this" attitude that the extraordinary climbing style on these routes exhibited.
Perhaps if this trend continues, the whole Park might be closed From Jan-July. A life-size Model of the Monolith (with a full service bar and grill on top, including elevator/ADA access) could be constructed at the campground for climbers and campers, with nightly campfire talks about birds, bats, Belizzi doing reenactments of the FA of P.O.D., Park history,and the social life of NPS employees.... for use only during the closures.
The future possibilities are endless. I am sure the E.I.R. would sail through quickly. JC would protest, but including a realistic, unprotected choss pinnacle, covered in natural moss should shut him up.
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Note; Tecate would be served and no one would ever have to wonder again where's Waldo?.
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I am convinced the advent of a second pair of peregrines is because of the high quality ascents that occurred just prior to the nesting season in the sensitive areas. On a raw,evolutionary level the peregrines felt and adopted the "we can do this" attitude that the extraordinary climbing style on these routes exhibited.
Perhaps if this trend continues, the whole Park might be closed From Jan-July. A life-size Model of the Monolith (with a full service bar and grill on top, including elevator/ADA access) could be constructed at the campground for climbers and campers, with nightly campfire talks about birds, bats, Belizzi doing reenactments of the FA of P.O.D., Park history,and the social life of a NPS employees.... for use only during the closures.
The future possibilities are endless. I am sure the E.I R. would sail through quickly. JC would protest, but including a realistic, unprotected choss pinnacle, covered in natural moss should shut him up.
Your eyes must be brown.
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Your eyes must be brown
The clearest blue, through and through.
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A full replica of the Monolith @ the East side visitor's center would be nice.
That would save all that time hiking up there.
Even better, POD could be "altered" into a better climb.
Heck, one could then free Bridwell Bolts...
Then one could take a dip in the pool after a few laps.
Clink is a visionary.
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Note; Tecate would be served and no one would ever have to wonder again where's Waldo?.
My wife would appreciate being able to keep track of me, but it has to be at least a six-pack to keep me around.
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Buzzard bait? Isn't that a real possibility if something goes way wrong for a solo adventurer at pinns? Do vultures eat fresh meat or do they like it ripened?
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some are pre-ripened.
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Hey Gang -
Just a heads-up that the advisories have been mostly lifted for the year. All areas are open for climbing, except for the the Hawkins Peak area that includes Tuff Dome, H&L Dome, Frothy Flake, and Corn Flake. We have a peregrine falcon pair in that area with a very late nest effort (after a first nesting attempt that failed earlier in the season)... Assuming that nest remains active through the heat, the young should be fledging in early August.
Otherwise, all other areas are open for climbing!
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Thanks Gavin.
Anything to add to the 4th thread?
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Cool!
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Hey All -
The peregrine falcon young fledged successfully from the Hawkins Peak nest in the Flakes area north downslope of Tuff Dome, so all closures have been lifted for the year.
Despite temps of 100+ degrees most days, we have had some decent mornings with fog or high overcasts leading to climbable hours early in the days. Mostly hot weather, though... But I'm sure some folks (like JC) will be out here regardless!
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sweet! thanks for the update Gavin. clink and I will be back in the area looking for the ultimate Pinns FA soon :)
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Hey All -
Yep, it's that time of year again: advisories go into effect today, January 20th, 2015. I updated the list at the beginning of the thread, so check it out and let me know if you have questions.
In a nutshell, the usual, start-of-season advisories are in effect. A few areas that are open that you might not expect: the north end of Balconies (from Digger north through Nexus/Sexus and Stiletto); all of Gargoyle, Piedras Bonitas, Neglected Valley, and Knuckle Ridge; Western Front; and all of Frog and Hand.
I mailed out advisory handouts to gyms, etc. and accidentally listed Piedras Bonitas and Gargoyle as sensitive. Folks reading here can disregard that and climb out there if you're interested. Thanks!
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Thank you for the update!
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Thx Gavin.
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Nice Gavin - thanks!
We were up at The Fins one last time yesterday and down in the depths of The Arcade the day before.
I'm especially excited about The Western Front remaining open as I have been wanting to get back out there while temps are cooler.
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Gavin,
Thanks as always.
BTW, as you may have heard, they had a very unusual closure at Joshua Tree last season for raptors. Given the nest's location, they theoretically should have closed half of Hidden Valley Campground (to give enough space to the birds). However, rather than face an armed rebellion of climbers, they brought the closure line right up to the edge of camp. I haven't heard how the nesting went.
Since we don't know what happened, I hereby volunteer to continue researching this subject on your behalf. I will selflessly go to Joshua Tree starting late next week. I will research this until I have some answers, even if it takes a full week (or more) down there.
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Since we don't know what happened, I hereby volunteer to continue researching this subject on your behalf. I will selflessly go to Joshua Tree starting late next week. I will research this until I have some answers, even if it takes a full week (or more) down there.
Thank you for your selfless and generous sacrifice and devotion!
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Thank you for your selfless and generous sacrifice and devotion!
It's a long tradition with me.
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Interesting about J-Tree... Do you know if the nesting raptors were flacons? Any photos of the location, in the context of the campground? If you do find out if the nest was successful, that would be worth hearing about, too.
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Interesting about J-Tree... Do you know if the nesting raptors were flacons? Any photos of the location, in the context of the campground? If you do find out if the nest was successful, that would be worth hearing about, too.
This was in early April of this year, when we were there for a family week of camping/climbing. They had only just discovered the nest (we saw them putting up the closure signs that late in the breeding season, which is why I asked).
The climbing ranger told me it was specifically falcons - I think. I know it was raptors It was in an area on the north side of Hidden Valley Campground called The Outback. Closing part of Hidden Valley Campground there would probably be less well accepted than closing Discovery Wall would be here (seriously). They apparently didn't even consider it.
She seemed genuinely surprised (it seemed that they'd never had issues like that there before). I would be curious to see how well the nest did given the huge (!!) traffic of climbers and campers that would still have been fairly close to the nest site.
BTW, if you're curious too, the climbing ranger's name is Bernadette. She's quite friendly considering the hordes and hordes of climbers she deals with. She posts to supertopo and you could contact her through that site (or just try her first name followed by ".gov" or some such maybe?). Obviously she could put you in touch with the correct biologist type people.
I'd love to hear the outcome and you'd probably get better information from them than I would.
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Yeah, I found Bernadette on Supertopo in three seconds. She posts under "Freecoffee." (In the bigger climbing parks the climbing staff does free coffee for/with climbers on most Saturday and Sunday mornings.) Type that in and you'll be able to contact her through her email through that site.
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She posts under "Freecoffee."
I like carrots!
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Tunnel routes are on Chaos?
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Amazingly enough, yes.
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Tunnel routes are on Chaos?
I'm planning to rebolt those this summer during the week but I didn't realize they fall under the closures - thought they were too low to be of concern.
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Yeah, we have a prairie falcon pair every year that nests somewhere between Egg, Teapot Dome, and Chaos Crag. I've seen them at Chaos Crag, Teapot Dome, and Ball Pinnacle so far this year, but as they focus more on a specific site for nesting, I'll let you know. That falcon territory is small enough - and close enough to trails - that I try to give the birds a bit more space. Remind me as summer approaches and we'll see where the birds are at in their nesting schedule.
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(http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1F5726D5-6646-4050-AA6E-C275DF6CA8E3%7D/Raptor_Pictogram%201_For%20web.jpg)
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Wow, that cartoon is awesome! Where the heck did you find that?
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Wow, that cartoon is awesome! Where the heck did you find that?
AF is on Facebook. It's been floating around for a couple weeks. :)
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Just a heads-up: climbing advisories have been updated now that falcon nests have been confirmed. There are no new closures, just more areas accessible for climbing again.
The main areas where advisories have been lifted for the season include all of Machete, Citadel, Scout Peak, and Goat Rock. Note that the posted advisory sign near Scout Peak will remain in place for hikers / climbers that might otherwise head to the back side of Resurrection Wall (which is still fully under advisory), but the sign can be ignored for climbing at Goat Rock or Scout Peak.
Let me know if you have questions.
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Hey All -
All climbing advisories / closures are lifted for the rest of 2015. Let me know if you have questions, and stay safe in the heat if you're out hiking and climbing!
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Cool, going bolting. Although I had a difficult 3rd class down climb yesterday because the rock was too hot to hold onto.
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Too hot.
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Too hot.
C'mon clink - it was only 92 in Pinns today - probably nearly that hot at chateau Young.
I'm going bowling while I scab up.
They have AC, cold beer and hot dogs with spicy mustard :)
Thanks for the confirmation Gavin.
Three years ago we were out climbing Costanoan the day after closures were lifted :)
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I love mustard.
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Mud Falcons still banned?
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... while I scab up.
Invalid without pics >:D
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Interested in some new routing? Possibly this Sunday? Might include bushwhacking, P.O, crappy rock, bad pro, and other nastiness. Totally a 5 star route.
C'mon clink - it was only 92 in Pinns today - probably nearly that hot at chateau Young.
I'm going bowling while I scab up.
They have AC, cold beer and hot dogs with spicy mustard :)
Thanks for the confirmation Gavin.
Three years ago we were out climbing Costanoan the day after closures were lifted :)
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Interested in some new routing? Possibly this Sunday? Might include bushwhacking, P.O, crappy rock, bad pro, and other nastiness. Totally a 5 star route.
Seriously?
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Have I ever lied to you?
That you know of.
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OK then, but you have to hold the PO out of my way while I pass through.
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no way. I hate that stuff. You lay on it while JC and I go through.
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Sunday? Hmmm
Is the Mud Mobile back in action?
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ESPL 6:30? Any takers?
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Is that beer?
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ESPL 6:30? Any takers?
I think so. JC are you in?
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ESPL 6:30? Any takers?
Oh wow, do you guys sleep?
I was going to find my own partner and carpool in with Mr. Mud so I can climb when he goes off crushing PO, but doubt anyone is THAT motivated.
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Let me know what time. Whatever it is, I will be 10 minutes late. >:D
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We managed to hijack three threads for this topic...
I have accomplished something.
How about 8:30 East side?
Waldo you in?
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Tempting, very tempting.
Is the Mud Mobile fixed?
New Hampster installed?
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yep, mud mobile is back.
:thumbup:
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Oh wow, do you guys sleep?
I was going to find my own partner and carpool in with Mr. Mud so I can climb when he goes off crushing PO, but doubt anyone is THAT motivated.
I'd be interested if you need a partner. Are you still planning to come out this Sunday?
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I'd be interested if you need a partner. Are you still planning to come out this Sunday?
Gavin, are you looking at climbing for only a couple of hours? I'd be happy to climb with you (more like following you up some climbs), but wonder if there will be a few hours when I have to sit around to wait for Mud's return.
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Gavin, are you looking at climbing for only a couple of hours? I'd be happy to climb with you (more like following you up some climbs), but wonder if there will be a few hours when I have to sit around to wait for Mud's return.
mudworm, I think I could climb all day if you want to. I can't promise I'll be in top form... For the past couple weeks I've been recovering from trying to pass a kidney stone (OUCH), having it surgically removed, having a second stone pulverized with shockwave therapy last week, and then having a stent removed yesterday. Yeah, not for the squeamish!
At any rate, let me know what lines you'd like to run up.
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Gavin, sorry to hear about the kidney stones. I deal with those. Dealing with a small one right now. My urologist recommends lots of lemon water and says 90% of the time they are caused by diet or lack of hydration. Some folks are just more prone to them than others. If you get them once you are likely to get them again. two to three liters a day minimum.
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mudworm, I think I could climb all day if you want to. I can't promise I'll be in top form... For the past couple weeks I've been recovering from trying to pass a kidney stone (OUCH), having it surgically removed, having a second stone pulverized with shockwave therapy last week, and then having a stent removed yesterday. Yeah, not for the squeamish!
At any rate, let me know what lines you'd like to run up.
Ouch, what couple of weeks, Gavin! I can't believe you are climbing again already on Sunday. Tough!
I'll be there on Sunday. We'll shoot for arrival (at the Nature Center) around 8:30am, and it usually takes about 15 minutes for us to be ready. I'm not in my top form either having been away from climbing for a month. I mainly just want to be on real rock to help toughen up the skin on my fingers. No specific route(s) in mind. Happy to follow whatever you like to climb, but I can't promise I can always get to the top :tongue: . See you on Sunday!
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Ouch, what couple of weeks, Gavin! I can't believe you are climbing again already on Sunday. Tough!
I'll be there on Sunday. We'll shoot for arrival (at the Nature Center) around 8:30am, and it usually takes about 15 minutes for us to be ready. I'm not in my top form either having been away from climbing for a month. I mainly just want to be on real rock to help toughen up the skin on my fingers. No specific route(s) in mind. Happy to follow whatever you like to climb, but I can't promise I can always get to the top :tongue: . See you on Sunday!
Sounds good, mudworm... We can hobble around together. ;) I'll see you at 8:30 - 8:45!
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We'll shoot for arrival (at the Nature Center) around 8:30am,
See you there.
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The 2016 advisories are now in effect. The list is pretty much the same as last year, but check it out and let me know if you have questions. Thanks!
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Thanks Gavin,
still plenty for me to get after if it ever quits raining...
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Do dry or wet years affect the birds of prey fledgling success numbers?
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Will any water fowl be added to the sensitive list this year?
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"Okay: Unmentionable, Knee, and rocks lower (and routes right along trail near tunnel below switchbacks)"
Nice
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Do dry or wet years affect the birds of prey fledgling success numbers?
If it is a really wet year, it could affect fledging success dramatically - in 1998 with all the flooding here, there was complete falcon nest failure (because all of the nests were washed out).
In more moderate years, it is hard to say. There are a lot of factors that can affect raptor nesting productivity. The biggest issue seems to be prey availability. If it is too dry for multiple years, that can lead to less prey available for adults and young... Breeding raptor pairs can just bail on nesting and focus on surviving drought conditions.
For the most part, though, the birds do seem to find ways to nest successfully. We'll see how the weather shapes up this year!
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Just to confirm, the following routes are OK:
Cuidado!
Machete Direct
Son of Dawn Wall Pitch 1
From this site, it's not clear that the above routes are open:
http://pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html#closures
Thanks
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take a look at the very first post in this thread. It is a bit more detailed.
Machete Ridge
Sensitive: The West Face, Bill's Bad Bolts, Bill's Bad Bolts Direct Finish, Rock Around the Clock, Pigeon Crack, Crackophobia, Son of Dawn Wall (2nd pitch and above), Icarus, Daedalus
Okay: Desperado Chuteout, Destiny, Old Original, Derringer, all climbs from Machete Direct to Cuidado!, first pitches of Son of Dawn Wall, Full Throttle, Dos Equis
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Climbed West Side yesterday. There are no visible postings about bird closures. Saw one team across they valley on Lava Falls (definitely closed). Is someone here in touch with the NPS? The NPS should have a sign up on the desk where we sign in. The ranger at the reg desk was very much concerned that my NPS pass matched my driver's license. Did not care so much about what I was doing (did not ask about climbing), nor did they mention bird closures. There are also no signs up on the message board at the bathrooms.
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Thank for the heads up. There should be a sign post at the approach trail for Balconies.
If it's not up yet you'll see the metal bracket that holds the post.
Gavin may not have gotten around to get all the posts up yet.
I'll shoot Gavin an email in case he isn't checking in here daily.
Gavin has his email visible if you check the members list - of course that is provided you know he's the birdman. ;)
gavin_emmons@hotmail.com
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Runout -
I work at Pinnacles as a biologist and manage the closures. Feel free to send me an email if you'd like.
In regards to signs, there are closure signs that are up and affixed to metal brackets, at the main access point to Balconies along the Balconies Cliff Trail (near Smiling Simian), and at the top of the access trail to Tilting Terrace. I affixed them for the season on January 19th, so they have been in the ground for over a week. Basically, anyone climbing Lava Falls would have had to walk right by the main sign along the Balconies Cliff Trail.
I do have a bulletin board poster that is current and reflects closures at the bulletin board across from the Juniper Canyon trailhead. Unfortunately there isn't room near the bathrooms for placing another poster at the bulletin board fixture there... The bulletin board leading to the Juniper Canyon trailhead is the best I can do with the existing infrastructure.
I have also given out closure handouts to gyms throughout California to post in the gyms, and I give copies of the handouts to interpretation staff on the east and west sides of the park to disperse to visitors. Some staff are more motivated to do this than others, but I will remind interpreters and visitor use assistants to make use of the handouts.
Finally, I have current lists of closures here on Mud N' Crud, also on the Friends of Pinnacles website, and there is a link on current closure conditions on the official Pinnacles website. (I was a bit late getting that last one updated, but it is current now.)
Beyond that, any help that climbers can provide to enforce closures as a responsible community are greatly appreciated... I do so myself when I am out climbing and hiking in the park, and hopefully other climbers and hikers feel comfortable doing the same. Ultimately it is our collective motivation as stewards of the park that make the advisories/closures work or not, since we have limited NPS staff at the park and can only do so much, So if you see folks in closure areas, please let them know!
Thanks for your concern and support. I'll do what I can to try to push for more handouts and a sign-in sheet for climbers on the west side.
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Runout -
I work at Pinnacles as a biologist and manage the closures. Feel free to send me an email if you'd like.
In regards to signs, there are closure signs that are up and affixed to metal brackets, at the main access point to Balconies along the Balconies Cliff Trail (near Smiling Simian), and at the top of the access trail to Tilting Terrace. I affixed them for the season on January 19th, so they have been in the ground for over a week. Basically, anyone climbing Lava Falls would have had to walk right by the main sign along the Balconies Cliff Trail.
I do have a bulletin board poster that is current and reflects closures at the bulletin board across from the Juniper Canyon trailhead. Unfortunately there isn't room near the bathrooms for placing another poster at the bulletin board fixture there... The bulletin board leading to the Juniper Canyon trailhead is the best I can do with the existing infrastructure.
I have also given out closure handouts to gyms throughout California to post in the gyms, and I give copies of the handouts to interpretation staff on the east and west sides of the park to disperse to visitors. Some staff are more motivated to do this than others, but I will remind interpreters and visitor use assistants to make use of the handouts.
Finally, I have current lists of closures here on Mud N' Crud, also on the Friends of Pinnacles website, and there is a link on current closure conditions on the official Pinnacles website. (I was a bit late getting that last one updated, but it is current now.)
Beyond that, any help that climbers can provide to enforce closures as a responsible community are greatly appreciated... I do so myself when I am out climbing and hiking in the park, and hopefully other climbers and hikers feel comfortable doing the same. Ultimately it is our collective motivation as stewards of the park that make the advisories/closures work or not, since we have limited NPS staff at the park and can only do so much, So if you see folks in closure areas, please let them know!
Thanks for your concern and support. I'll do what I can to try to push for more handouts and a sign-in sheet for climbers on the west side.
Gavin,
Not to get mushy, but while reading your response, I realized again how lucky the climbing community is to have you as the raptor biologist, and, also, how lucky the park is to have your passion and knowledge working on behalf of the birds.
Glad to know and climb with you.
And piss on the idiots that don't care enough to read.
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Gavin,
Not to get mushy, but while reading your response, I realized again how lucky the climbing community is to have you as the raptor biologist, and, also, how lucky the park is to have your passion and knowledge working on behalf of the birds.
Glad to know and climb with you.
And piss on the idiots that don't care enough to read.
Thanks Brad - I'm feeling the love. ;)
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Really glad Pinnacles has the people to help it go the way it did (vs. close the whole park to climbing for 6 months).
Thanks again.
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no sign in sheets without a program and agreement on how it is used/stored. There is a long history of a sign in sheet being put out without any thought as to how it is used/retained.
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https://vimeo.com/133851245
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There is a long history of a sign in sheet being put out
Mungie would know. I kept seeing his sign-in on both the E and W sides.
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Hey gang -
I've updated climbing advisories today.. Check them out.
There is one area with new advisories / closures, and it is significant: the east face of Machete. All routes that make use of the first 4 pitches of Old Original - including Derringer, The Hideout and of course Old Original - are under advisory, due to birds nesting in the area. New advisory signs have been put at the Balconies Cave / Cliff Trail junction and along the Machete access trail near Serpiente de Cascabel to offer reminders to climber / hikers.
On the positive side, note that a lot of other areas are open for the rest of the season, including Citadel / Whitetail Rock, everything on Condor Crag south through Long's Folly, Chaos Crag, Goat Rock, Scout and Beak Peaks, Pinch or Lynch Wall, everything near Salathe's Sliver and Nelson's Needle, and the Yaks. Let me know if you need additional details of what is and isn't open for climbing. I'll update advisory brochures that visitors can pick up in the visitor centers and will update the advisory posters at trailheads as I have time. Thanks!
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That's VERY positive! Thanks Gavin!
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Thank you for the update!
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Chaos Crag
Sport climbing area...
Gavin, are you working tomorrow?
Do I ask for that Bird guy?
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Sport climbing area...
Gavin, are you working tomorrow?
Do I ask for that Bird guy?
I am working tomorrow... I think I'll be out doing wildlife surveys in Marion Canyon, at the north boundary of the park off of North Wilderness Trail.
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On the positive side, note that a lot of other areas are open for the rest of the season, including Goat Rock
Did you hear that Lars?
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the not so good news. I am leaving town for two weeks so I will be missing a few weekends at the Pins.
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Oh yeah, one more thing I should mention. The advisory sign on the way to Scout Peak / Goat Rock is still affixed in the ground. If you are going out to climb in areas that are open - Scout Peak, Goat Rock, etc. - feel free to ignore it. I will keep it there through the season to dissuade general hikers from heading down towards Resurrection Wall from that approach. Thanks!
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Nice day today.
Bummer I had forgotten the Yaks were open as we were close.
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We are thinking of heading up to the upper area to finish up some projects if anyone is interested.
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I wish.
Stop by afterwards.
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I really like the poster about climbing and bird closures that is in the bulletin board at the trailheads. Worth taking the time to stop and look at the photos and read. It is very well thought out.(and of course the photos are nice) Good job.
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I really like the poster about climbing and bird closures that is in the bulletin board at the trailheads. Worth taking the time to stop and look at the photos and read. It is very well thought out.(and of course the photos are nice) Good job.
Thanks, Noal! The advisory list on the bulletin board posters needs updating, and I'll get to it when I can... The large-format printer for the posters is finicky, so I never relish the idea of coaxing completed posters out of it. But at least the advisory list is current on this thread, at FOP, and in the advisory handouts in the visitor centers.
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Hey All -
Just a heads-up; I'll cross-post this on its own thread as well.
A temporary closure is in effect at the south half of Machete Ridge, covering all climbs from Pigeon Crack to the Hideout. This includes Derringer and Old Original. Note that this is a mandatory closure, not just a climbing advisory, and any visitors can be cited just for being found in the closure area. Closure signs clearly mark the access paths around the south side of Machete Ridge, past Corona and Dos Equis (both of which remain open).
The temporary closure was put into effect by park managers to protect sensitive wildlife from human disturbance, after several climbing parties were observed climbing on Old Original after the area was placed under the Climbing Advisories since late March. If you’d like more information, you can call the park at 831-389-4319 x276. Thanks!
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Can anyone direct me to one or more bolt ladders that are NOT part of the current closures? Or actually a crack would be good too....just not one that is usually busy.
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Bridwell Bolts on Monolith
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Mechanic's, bolt ladder and great views
Trauma or Jorgie's for crack.
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Bill's Bad Bolts, Rock Around the Clock, Los Banditos
The Hand has a bolt ladder.
South Yak - South Face
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Bill's Bad Bolts, Rock Around the Clock, Los Banditos
These routes are open? I thought they were part of the closure?
Oh and thanks for the replies!
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These routes are open? I thought they were part of the closure?
Oh and thanks for the replies!
The EAST face of Machete and the southern end/portion of the west face is closed starting with Pigeon Crack and wrapping around the southern end (toward Old Original) - Pigeon Crack, Crackaphobia, Son of Dawn etc - all closed.
I double-checked with Gavin.
The West face of Machete is wide open starting from Destiny Wall and going climber's left (north).
If you have a specific hit list that you're still not sure about - just post here or message Gavin and he will give you the go, no-go. Don't hesitate to ask ;D
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I just read upthread that bills bad bolts and rock around the clock are "sensitive." That doesn't mean closed?
Edit:
Additionally the FOP page lists both "Machete Ridge" and "Machete Ridge (east face)" as closed.
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I just read upthread that bills bad bolts and rock around the clock are "sensitive." That doesn't mean closed?
Edit:
Additionally the FOP page lists both "Machete Ridge" and "Machete Ridge (east face)" as closed.
I copied and pasted from the current list on this sticky (top of the thread).
The bolt ladders are on the west face.
I just emailed Gavin about this yesterday to confirm that those routes are okay to climb.
They are also shady in the early am.
Machete Ridge
CLOSED: All climbs from Pigeon Crack to Hideout, including Derringer and Old Original
Okay: All climbs from Cuidado! and Machete Descent to Dos Equis and Corona
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Ok thanks for the help.
So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?
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Ok thanks for the help.
So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?
No problem - happy to help.
We want to make sure folks are well informed.
Unfortunately we can't say the rest.
We have seen some evolving differences over the last few years.
Gavin has lifted some areas early the last couple years and now we are experiencing an "unusual" closure with Machete's east side. Gavin and Alacia spend untold hours evaluating sites each season.
Best thing to do is check over what is posted at the beginning of this sticky and then if you have any questions - just ask.
Check the rebolting master list sticky too - Bruce and Clint have revamped several of the bolt ladders.
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Ok thanks for the help.
So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?
Building on what JC said, thanks for asking for clarifications. I try to keep the sticky at the beginning of the thread updated with current conditions and noted by date. Following that, I try to give heads-up posts at the end of the thread listing the most current open/closed conditions for different areas. Feel free to send me a PM too if you still have questions. Thanks!
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Oh i see! Thanks for clarifying gavin. I kept thinking that was four year old closure info because of the dates on the posts!
Machete ridge here i come.
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Oh i see! Thanks for clarifying gavin. I kept thinking that was four year old closure info because of the dates on the posts!
Machete ridge here i come.
wbuckingham - I understand your hesitation now. The date you were looking at is the date the sticky thread was first created.
Gavin - perhaps put the updated date at the beginning and end of your "front" page and bold it.
That way people will see the updated date as soon as they start reviewing the list and again if they read the whole thing.
I keep the date at the top of my rebolting master list - I bolded it to catch more attention.
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Good call, JC. The "front" page now has header and footer in bold with date of latest closure revisions.
wbuckingham - Happy to help. Have fun at Machete!
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Very helpful everyone, thanks!
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Hey All -
I've updated the closure lists today. Note that all closures in the park - except the south half of Machete - are now lifted. The temporary closure at Machete will stay in effect until further notice.
Now if we can just get a cold snap for a week or two to get some relief from the summer heat!
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Thanks Gavin.
I need to get out to some of the reopened areas for rebolting.
I think we may be strictly dreaming on a cold snap right now.
I told clink it felt like 100 today and the park gauge says it was 99 at 2:30 - which is about the time we hit the west side parking lot. It was just too hot to want to do much. Luckily we were able to stay shaded for the majority of our less than fruitful recon of Tabooboo.
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Just a heads up: the condor crew staff finally ended the closure at Machete Ridge, so all climbs are currently open again at that area. Machete should remain open after January 16, unless I start seeing falcon activity in the area as the raptor season proceeds.
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Hey All -
Just a heads-up that the climbing advisories are in effect as of today, Tuesday, January 17th. Note that some areas that are usually closed for initial advisories are still open, including Machete, Scout Peak, Beak Peak, and the central High Peaks (including N. and S. Fingers, Condors Crag, Long's Folly, etc.). If I note falcons nesting at any of these formations I'll update closures accordingly.
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Hey All -
I've updated advisories / closures for the mid 2017 season. The main changes are that all routes at Citadel are open, and all routes at Gargoyle and Piedras Bonitas Cliffs are now under advisory. (It's the first time falcons have nested at Piedras Bonitas in over 15 years.)
Let me know if you have any questions!
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Thanks for the update and the heads up about PB Cliffs.
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Hey gang -
Just a heads-up that all closures have been lifted for the year... Falcon and other raptor young have fledged from the cliffs and I took down the closure signs over the past few days. It may take me a bit longer to update the trailhead bulletin boards - our printer has been on the fritz - but you can disregard out-of-date information on those for now.
Let me know if you have any questions.
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Thanks for the update.
JC and KC have fledged into sport climbers. JC is elbow deep into a chalk bag somewhere in the far East by now. >:D
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Thanks for the update.
JC and KC have fledged into sport climbers. JC is elbow deep into a chalk bag somewhere in the far East by now. >:D
I am not now, nor have I ever been a sport climber.
I did not use a chalk bag or chalk, although I was actually tempted at times by the heat and greasy feel of the rock.
I didn't lead anything harder than 5.8
The most important thing was that we had fun, even in mostly miserable conditions :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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The most important thing was that we had fun, even in mostly miserable conditions :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
:)
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I am not now, nor have I ever been a sport climber.
[the motion is seconded... Senator Mungie from the 108th District has the floor.
Senator Mungie steps to the podium with all the seriousness that a Bud Light Lime can muster...]
"Senator JC, you assert you were not, and are not now, a Sport Climper. But I have here a list of names!"
"Further, I submit to this August body (or January or even February, but never July), that Senator JC is prevaricating, equivocating and subliminally sending messages through my AlumaHat(TM)."
"I ask you, Senator JC, were you lying then or are you lying now?"
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4105/35687054306_14c6eaf2c4_b.jpg)
[GASP!!!!]
;D
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^^^
Thanks a lot Chumlee :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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What about Mud falcon nesting?
Clink?
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Full-fledged soon.
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Always pays to be higher up out of their trajectory.
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We saw a bird of prey flying with a trout in it's talons at Lee Vining canyon last week. Probably an osprey.
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Hey gang -
Just a reminder that closures go into effect - as usual - the day after MLK Day, or January 16th this year. Areas affected should include the usual - Balconies, Crowley, Resurrection Wall, Goat Rock, Tuff Dome, H&L Dome, Yaks Wall and N & S Yaks, etc. Falcons nested at Piedras Bonitas Cliffs last year, so that will be part of the initial closures as well this year. However, Machete will start open, as well as the Central High Peaks and Scout Peak areas.
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Thank you for the heads up.
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Climbing advisories went into effect today, January 16th, 2018. Note that there are a few changes this year: all routes at Piedras Bonitas Cliffs are affected by initial closures (but not Gargoyle, Knuckle Ridge, or Neglected Valley). Some areas that are usually under advisory are totally open: all routes on Machete, Citadel, Whitetail Rock, and Scout Peak.
Let me know if you have questions, and thanks for the support!
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Thanks Gavin.
Awesome that so much stuff can stay open.
I changed the year to 2018 in the sticky title and the other posts with regard to 2018 :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Heads up everyone - there is a Mandatory Closure that just went into effect for the south end of Machete. I just updated the first page of this thread with the relevant details.
In the spirit of full disclosure - the closure was put into effect because there is a pair of California condors that is nesting on the east side of Machete. The condor pair nested in the same area successfully in 2016, and they are trying again this year. The closure was put into effect to prevent people from disturbing the condor pair's nest effort.
The Mandatory Closure is supported by the park superintendent and the condor biologist crew at the park because condors are critically endangered, so we have a federal mandate to protect them, and to keep them from being disturbed while they are nesting.
There will be closure signs posted on the access trail leading south around the base of Machete, after Dos Equis and Corona (which are still open). Please don't hike back up in there... There will be condor biologists monitoring the site, and they will call in law enforcement rangers if they see visitors hiking - or especially climbing - in the area.
I'll cross-post this on a new thread too so that folks can see it.
Thanks for your support!
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MOUSE DROPPINGS
An eagle swoops down from the sky and eats a mouse. Three hours later, while the eagle is flying, the mouse sticks its head out of the eagle's butt and asks, "How high up are we?"
"About 2,000 feet," the eagle replies.
The mouse replies, "You ain't sh*ttin' me, are you?"
Raptor biologist humor? :)
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Raptor biologist humor? :)
Funny dude - extra stars for combining with toilet humor :lol:
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Yelled out to some guys on lava yesterday, they seemed to speak mandarin and didnt care what i had to say.
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Thanks for the effort.
I took pictures of the party on Shake and Bake about a month ago and reported them to a volunteer who radioed back to the Ranger. He also talked to them after they came down.
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Hey gang -
Just a heads-up that climbing advisories have (finally) been lifted for the year.
Note that the mandatory closures at Machete (affecting the southwest, south, and east faces of Machete including Old Original) are still in effect, due to ongoing condor nesting efforts..
Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for the support!
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Thanks Gavin for all your work and communication!
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Mud falcons?
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Hey Gavin,
Is there any thoughts on when the little tyke might fledge? I'm assuming that's when the closure lifts? Absolutely fascinating. Thanks for all your work.
Zay
edit: Im hoping to do Los Banditos this next week, but I know the final pitch puts me on top of Old Original Pitch 3 (condors only)... Im planning on bailing off the routes final pitch onto Rappel Bypass... which drops me off under the rappel pitch of old original (the end of pitch 5 i believe).
If ive done my homework correctly... I should be good, no?
Of course, Im happy to back off and just do something else.
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Hey Zay -
Yep, you are good to go with your plan on Los Banditos, heading to Rappel Bypass.
Condors take a long time to develop as nestlings before they finally fly for the first time. I would guess that the condor young will fledge (have powered flight for the first time) sometime in later September or into early October, but will still be dependent on the parents for food in the area for the next month or two.
I'll keep everyone posted as the situation develops!
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Sounds like my life...why leave the nest if the going is good?
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(https://i.redd.it/w7ei6x4z2tw11.jpg)
this guy landed right next to me on condor crag north summit. he even walked right uo to my white helmet, which i had placed just an arms length away... and then he picked at it a few times before flipping it over, which startled him so he jumped back a few feet. then he stayed there for thr next 20 minutes as my partner gsined thr summit. we admired him for a bit then rapped off.
then, as we about to start pulling the rope, a hiker shouted, "hes trying to eat your rope!" sure as shit, i could see his feathers poking out over the lip, so i quickly pulled the rope. no damage.
but i wonder if i should have actually tried to deter him from apprpaching me (seriosuly i could have slapped him). humans are bad, and he should know that, right?
i swatted at him and said "git!" but he was 100% unphased.
cool experience though.
im having trouble trying to find out WHICH "26" he/she is...
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btw that picture was taken with an iPhone
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Zay - I went to the Condor Spot web page and with the color tag of this condor it looks like this is the bird:
CA Condor #726 a/k/a Little Stinker
Sex: Female
Hatch Location & Date: San Diego Wild Animal Park, 3/18/2013
Release Date: 11/11/2016 (San Simeon)
Parents: #20 and #157
Local Biological Siblings: #168, #199, #209
Breeding Status: Unpaired
Offspring: None
Little Stinker is named after the plane that won the US Female Aerobatic Championship in the late 1940s. This petite condor spends much of her time in the pen performing daring flight maneuvers. This includes flying into the walls of the pen and jumping over other condors on the perch. Since her release, Little Stinker has taken her aerobatic performances on tour, all over the central coast.
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Nice shot! There's a certain beauty there, in that face. Is it the eyes?
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Yell, clap, stomp - generally make noise until they vacate if possible. We have had similar experiences with them acting unaffected by our presence and they are curious creatures. Probably part of the problem is raising them in captivity before their release into the wild.
By the way - just a suggestion for posting pics - Reduce your file size to 500KB or choose the medium medium option if using Flikr so we can see your entire pic without scrolling. You can also consult clink if you need more help. :rolleyes: :nonod: :ciappa:
That's a really nice picture!
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...you can also consult clink if you need more help. :rolleyes: :nonod: :ciappa:
God help us (now, quickly, I'm off to the emergency room to get my eyes treated - they rolled way too far back and won't recover).
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cool pic, love the scowl
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feral bird
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You never saw when Mr Mud used to drive up in his Orange mobile.
The birds knew his car.
They would all take flight to check him out.
Would today be the day they’d get him??
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feral bird
can it get a feral rat?
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Hey gang -
The park is officially open again today, and climbing advisories are in effect. Check out the updated list and let me know if you have questions.
One thing to note: I am leaving Citadel open to climbing for now, but falcons did nest there (successfully) last year, and are gearing up to nest there again. If it looks like the falcons there are disturbed by climbers as the season progresses, I'll update advisories accordingly.
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Thanks for the update Gavin.
I see some formations marked wrong on the FOP page.
Sounds like a job for Brooks? :idea:
http://pinnacles.org/climbing/closures.html#closed
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Thanks for noticing the inconsistencies, John. I updated the FOP closure list and I *think* it should be consistent with the M 'n C list now.
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Thanks for noticing the inconsistencies, John. I updated the FOP closure list and I *think* it should be consistent with the M 'n C list now.
410.24 O.C.D. Overdrive 5.8 * This two-pitch route climbs to the top of Voyeur Wall (and to a nice, viewful summit). The first pitch is very good.
FA Party: Noal Elkins, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, John Cook, Jon Cochran.
:ciappa: :ciappa: :ciappa: :prrr: :out:
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^^^
Alright, we can all probably agree that the phrase "LOL" is way overused.
But that's what I did when I understood the two quotes juxtaposed like this.
Touche!
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^^^
Alright, we can all probably agree that the phrase "LOL" is way overused.
Touche!
Overused? Come on! So are some of your jokes but you still tell them ;D
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Overused? Come on! So are some of your jokes but you still tell them ;D
And I'll keep telling them... until you finally get them.
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And I'll keep telling them... until you finally get them.
#12
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#12
I guess my delivery wasn't very good...
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I guess my delivery wasn't very good...
#27
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Zay, great photo! I've sent it to my grandson Ben. He's into vulture type creatures. Your experience beats the one Brad and I had out back of balconies ten years ago, or so.
P.S. Speaking of grandkids, I've got a joke for Brad: you know what a tyrannosaurus and a stegosaurus eat, but what does a Thesaurus consume?
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P.S. Speaking of grandkids, I've got a joke for Brad: you know what a tyrannosaurus and a stegosaurus eat, but what does a Thesaurus consume?
Synonyms?
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I've got a joke for Brad: you know what a tyrannosaurus and a stegosaurus eat, but what does a Thesaurus consume?
Open mouth, insert foot. Crow on the side.
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Synonyms?
Synonym buns!
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Mud falcon nesting??
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waldo, my sides!
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Hey gang -
I just updated closures to reflect the Machete Ridge mandatory closure in effect. It is identical to last year's closure, with routes on the West Face Right, South Face, and east face closed. Climbing is still open from the Dos Equis / Corona area north through Cuidado! and the Machete Descent.
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Hey everyone -
A new update: all routes on Machete Ridge are now open again, and there are no closures or advisories in effect there.
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So it's okay to climb Much=Shitty ridge in a Gibbon's suit?
Asking for Mungie, I mean a friend.
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Hey everyone -
A new update: all routes on Machete Ridge are now open again, and there are no closures or advisories in effect there.
I'm guessing that does not bode well for the breeding effort by the condor pair?
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Hope they took off for big sur..
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I'm guessing that does not bode well for the breeding effort by the condor pair?
Correct - the condor nest effort failed. The nesting pair has already successfully fledged 2 young birds from the site in past years, so they will likely try again in a coming year.
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Hey Everyone -
I'll be out of the park (on family leave) for several days, but wanted to pass on that all climbing advisories and closures are lifted for the rest of the year. Advisory signs have been removed from climbing areas, but it may take me a bit more time to update the bulletin board posters. As always thanks for your support!
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Thx G! Appreciate the effort!
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Hey Everyone -
I'll be out of the park (on family leave) for several days, but wanted to pass on that all climbing advisories and closures are lifted for the rest of the year. Advisory signs have been removed from climbing areas, but it may take me a bit more time to update the bulletin board posters. As always thanks for your support!
Thanks again for your tireless dedication and your careful research.
I especially appreciate the specific listings you've put together in recent years.
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Heads up, gang - the climbing advisories are in effect as of today, January 21st, 2020. I tried to be pretty specific about formations affected by the advisories, but let me know if you have questions. Note that if there are California condor pairs that nest on certain formations, there may be closures going into effect as well.
Thanks for your support!
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Thanks Gavin.
I really appreciate how selective you have been in recent years.
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Thanks Gavin!
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Thanks Gavin! I like that you seperated the area North of Resurrection. Now I can go do some laps on O Henry (among other things)
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Yeah, I hear you Noal - as soon as the weather starts drying out a bit (or a lot) more...
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Heads up, gang - the park has instituted two climbing closures related to active condor nests at the park, at and around Teapot Dome, and just now at Machete Ridge. The Machete closure is partial as in past years and applies to the same routes as in past years, including the first 5 pitches of Old Original.
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Heads up, gang - the park has instituted two climbing closures related to active condor nests at the park, at and around Teapot Dome, and just now at Machete Ridge. The Machete closure is partial as in past years and applies to the same routes as in past years, including the first 5 pitches of Old Original.
We saw that one coming.
I'll make sure to have Kat spread the word at Pac Edge.
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Thanks, John - much appreciated!
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Heads up, gang - the park has instituted two climbing closures related to active condor nests at the park, at and around Teapot Dome, and just now at Machete Ridge. The Machete closure is partial as in past years and applies to the same routes as in past years, including the first 5 pitches of Old Original.
Thanks Gavin
PS; Please name the next baby condor after JC, he is practically family, not only in appearance and characteristics but most importantly in time spent. If the condors start to go vegan, you will know why.
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Heads up, gang - the park has instituted two climbing closures related to active condor nests at the park, at and around Teapot Dome, and just now at Machete Ridge. The Machete closure is partial as in past years and applies to the same routes as in past years, including the first 5 pitches of Old Original.
Had a feeling this one was coming - which is why I took everyone on it Thursday. Glad I was able to get them on it before the closure. I'll make sure to spread the word at the gym.
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Thanks Gavin
PS; Please name the next baby condor after JC, he is practically family, not only in appearance and characteristics but most importantly in time spent. If the condors start to go vegan, you will know why.
Bite me clunk. Yo-so-mighty is clearly the alpha male.
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Clink, I did name a Mud falcon after him.
Sadly, it only made 1 flight.
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Clink, I did name a Mud falcon after him.
Sadly, it only made 1 flight.
One and Done.
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Please name the next baby condor after JC
They don't give Pinnacles condors names, only numbers.
I guess I shouldn't expect a Meanderthal to know that.
How about 00 on an Orange tag?
I always wanted to be a double nought spy.
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Clink, we can just plant a Poisen Oak shrub in JC’s name.
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How about 00 on an Orange tag?
I always wanted to be a double nought spy.
Okay then a 00 tag.
Call it John Connery Cook.
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Clink, we can just plant a Poisen Oak shrub in JC’s name.
You can both make a salad with it to celebrate after it takes root.
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Okay then a 00 tag.
Call it John Connery Cook.
I was thinking more along the lines of Jethro Bodine.
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I'm hoping someone can help answer this - I'm planning to climb BBB which appears unaffected by closures. Am I allowed to use the ramp to access the mezzanine, or do I have to go up one of the routes to the left (e.g. dos Equis )?
Thanks!
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Have fun on BBB - as you guessed it is not affected by closures. If I'm reading your request correctly, I think you're asking if it is okay to climb "The West Face" route to get access to the mezzanine. Yep, you're good to go following that approach.
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Forum reaching it's full potential. Thanks Gavin!
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Awesome thanks Gavin!!
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I'm planning to climb BBB which appears unaffected by closures. Am I allowed to use the ramp to access the mezzanine
The ramp should be interesting after the rain yesterday and the upper water chutes too.
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The ramp should be interesting after the rain yesterday and the upper water chutes too.
Ya I bet.
What's the consensus on number days after some rain to climb? Hoping to go mid-week this week.
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Ya I bet.
What's the consensus on number days after some rain to climb? Hoping to go mid-week this week.
A question that comes up a lot and it is a loaded one that has to be considered on a case by case basis.
If you're like me and prefer the rock to actually be dry for maximum enjoyment, you could be in for a long wait.
That being said - I am also drawn to routes off the beaten path.
On routes that don't see a lot of traffic or have moss and lichen it can take days or weeks to dry out.
Black furry moss dries quicker, thick green moss is underlain by soil, lichen makes things slimy.
What's at the top of the route? Soil? That can drip for weeks after significant rain.
Clean routes that aren't in water chutes and get full sun like stuff at Discovery or Monolith can be fine in a matter of hours.
Some people don't care and will climb in any conditions.
It's my opinion that you can't hurt the rock at Pinnacles. It's all living on borrowed time anyway.
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Some people don't care and will climb in any conditions.
Hey, you don't have to get personal!
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It's my opinion that you can't hurt the rock at Pinnacles. It's all living on borrowed time anyway.
HA, aint that the truth!!
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So to the question will the route be dry mid week...
It’s hard to say as it depends on how much sun the face gets.
Plus is there any water still dripping on the route.
With having a good dry spell, it should not be too bad.
Just have an alternative.
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So to the question will the route be dry mid week...
It’s hard to say as it depends on how much sun the face gets.
Plus is there any water still dripping on the route.
With having a good dry spell, it should not be too bad.
Just have an alternative.
I didn't see that question. Is it beteween the lines? :lol:
Ya I bet.
What's the consensus on number days after some rain to climb? Hoping to go mid-week this week.
Well...if you want specifics...
The route might be okay today. .08 inches fell in the last rain (2 days ago).
That face gets no morning sun and with temps so low, the afternoon sun will have little to no drying effect.
The route is in water chutes with some fairly significant soil patches above.
More rain forecast after today with another break Thursday.
Last Wednesday would have been perfect. Hindsight is 2020.
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It is the year of hindsight? Oh the implications.
Borrowed geological time.
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It is the year of hindsight? Oh the implications.
Borrowed geological time.
Hindsight 5.7** is only about half as long as the other routes but it is a reachy, fun, jug fest on really nice rock.
I had hoped to establish it on January 1st but it just wasn't meant to be
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Off Topic...
I thought something important was happening.
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It is.
Buy your future beachfront property now just east of hwy 25 now.
Then name your next route Foresight.
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It is.
Buy your future beachfront property now just east of hwy 25 now.
Strictly dreaming.
You clearly know nothing about geological processes.
What a maroon :prrr: :out: :ciappa:
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Your mind is in a monumental drift.
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Your mind is in a monumental drift.
Your mind is totally controlled...
it has been stuffed into their mold...
and you will do as you are told...
until the rights to you are sold... :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
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Abuttment Well
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There once was a man from Aromas
Who penned really rotten, uh, poem-es
He came up with “Clink”
To make us all think
He had some great talent or skill
This guy had six beauties
We all thought them cuties
And route names so clever
They were exceeded oh, never
They roll off his tongue with a will
A very slow climber
At crags set the timer
Oh the minutes and hours he will kill
He once climbed at Pinns
But got thicker than thins
So he stopped, well er, mostly
Became silent and ghostly
And now we won’t see him until….
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Such love :) and inspiring, started a Bradspific poem.
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Twain Harte, hummingbird fart - I've got some rhymes. Now for some lines!
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How about them birds?
You know the ones that take over the high peaks each year.
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How about them birds?
You know the ones that take over the high peaks each year.
Quit your squawking! :out: :prrr: :arf:
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Hey gang -
The raptor nesting season isn't quite finished yet, but I've lifted closures on those cliffs / formations that are open for climbing again. Basically closures have been lifted on most areas, except for the partial closures still in effect at Balconies and Machete Ridge.
Let me know if you have questions!
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Hey gang -
The raptor nesting season isn't quite finished yet, but I've lifted closures on those cliffs / formations that are open for climbing again. Basically closures have been lifted on most areas, except for the partial closures still in effect at Balconies and Machete Ridge.
Let me know if you have questions!
Just when I finished my list of all the things I can do that aren't closed! :madman:
and briham is gone :imsad:
No - seriously - thanks for the update.
That will give me a lot more contingency plans.
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Hey All -
The raptor monitoring season is pretty much wrapping up, and I have lifted all climbing closures at Balconies. Note that the partial Machete closure is still in effect through the foreseeable future, but otherwise have fun and stay safe out there!
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Hey All -
The raptor monitoring season is pretty much wrapping up, and I have listed all climbing closures at Balconies. Note that the partial Machete closure is still in effect through the foreseeable future, but otherwise have fun and stay safe out there!
I think you meant to say lifted bro
Thanks for all your hard work!!!
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Whoops, you're right - typo fixed.
Time to get back out climbing today with the "cooler" forecast high of 90 degrees... Before the temps crank again later this week!
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....Before the temps crank again later this week!
:o :o :o
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Whoops, you're right - typo fixed.
Time to get back out climbing today with the "cooler" forecast high of 90 degrees... Before the temps crank again later this week!
Great minds think alike.
We were back up at Eye Candy.
Got three more bolts in The Great Humongous and it looks like it may go with another two.
The route is very deceiving from below. You get up there and there's no way to stance.
I stemmed over and lightly weighted The Great Humongous with my right foot while reaching for the joy knob that will alow me to pull over and get the next bolt in. Very pleasing so far :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
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Hey everyone - the partial closure at Machete Ridge was officially lifted today, and all routes are open there again. The condor youngster successfully fledged from the nest site there and has started flying over to the High Peaks and beyond to explore the park more fully. A ray of hope amidst some tough times for condors this year.
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Hey everyone - the partial closure at Machete Ridge was officially lifted today, and all routes are open there again. The condor youngster successfully fledged from the nest site there and has started flying over to the High Peaks and beyond to explore the park more fully. A ray of hope amidst some tough times for condors this year.
Excellent news and nice timing.
Tomorrow may be the first day in a long time that it's not too hot to enjoy some crud!
At "only" 92 - the west side still felt too hot to me today.
Bring on the coooooool... :ihih: 8)
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Thanks Gavin for keeping the forum readers up to date. I'm making this thread non-sticky now as I expect that there will be a new thread for 2021 when it becomes relevant.
Thanks to JC for reminding me that new updates are made to the same thread (and title). I'm reversing the earlier action and will leave it sticky just in case some responsible climbers want to check on closures before visiting.
P.S. I did some cleanup and updates on the forums today. If you notice some changes that may not have been appropriate, please do not hesitate to let me know. It's possible that I made mistakes in my hasty action.
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Hey everyone, the climbing closures are in effect again as of today, January 19th (Tuesday). There shouldn't be any major surprises - the closure list is consistent with what I have put into effect the last few years.
There may be some shifting nesting patterns with a falcon pair or two in the High Peaks this year - I will keep everyone updated as nesting efforts proceed.
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What’s up with the nest above Swallows crack?
Should I place a fake chicken on it? Or a picture of Clink...
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What’s up with the nest above Swallows crack?
Should I place a fake chicken on it? Or a picture of Clink...
I vote rubber chicken.
Save the picture of clink for the dartboard.
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What’s up with the nest above Swallows crack?
Should I place a fake chicken on it? Or a picture of Clink...
There are a couple of old stick nests that common ravens have tried to nest in at Discovery Wall over the years. A number of years ago a barn owl pair nested in one such stick nest and successfully raised and fledged three young. A couple years later (I think 2005) a prairie falcon pair nested near Melvin and successfully fledged young... that is the only time I have ever seen large falcons nest in that area, though I suspect if it wasn't such a popular climbing area, falcons would occupy the area more often.
There is an American kestrel pair that nests most of the way up Bye Bye Fly By every year, and usually succeeds in fledging young.
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There is an American kestrel pair that nests most of the way up Bye Bye Fly By every year, and usually succeeds in fledging young.
For some reason this seems really, really cool to me.
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^^^
I vote to shut down Discovery Wall.
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Gavin, check your private message, I have a question.....
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F4 - I don't see any messages from you... what's your question?
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F4 - I don't see any messages from you... what's your question?
He's probably in the park with all the other sport climbers :lol:
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He's probably in the park with all the other sport climbers :lol:
If he's in the High Peaks that must be interesting. Weather like this is clearly "for the birds".
The sun finally started shining around 1:30 and temps hit a whopping 50 degrees.
Wind gusts were up to 21 mph. Brrrrrrr...
So glad we are no longer weekend warriors...or feel any pressure to do anything these days... :ciappa:
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We were in the high peaks today....great circuit. And boy was it warm up there!!!
My question is about your goat rock routes..tried one. 10a right of the 10b. It seemed a bit runout. Was curious how hard to the moves are before the 10a crux and the bolt on.
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Weather like this is clearly "for the birds".
Birds must like sunny days then. Looked like it was going to be wet coming in but everything was dry. The top of OCD was a little damp after you exit the chimney.
Looked like the West Side parking lot was full and there were a ton of hikers. Saw some climbers on the Flatiron. Attempts to rattle the leader on Burtons Below with flatulence were ineffective.
Good day.
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We were in the high peaks today....great circuit. And boy was it warm up there!!!
My question is about your goat rock routes..tried one. 10a right of the 10b. It seemed a bit runout. Was curious how hard to the moves are before the 10a crux and the bolt on.
Nothing runout but the bolt spacing gets your attention doesn't it?
I told Gavin his comfort level is definitely different than mine.
The bolts may seem far but they protect the hardest moves perfectly.
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Attempts to rattle the leader on Burtons Below with flatulence were ineffective.
:lol: :thumbup:
Good day.
Glad you guys were able to get out.
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Yeah, I had a little gas. Heck of a way to say good day!
Agree the spacing got my attention. I was not sure how solid the rock was. I guess I just was not on that day.
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It was colder that day at Goat Rock than it felt today.
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F4 - I'll echo what JC said. There is some distance between upper bolts on the Goat Rock routes, but the climbing is a lot more moderate so it doesn't feel runout... You find bolts to clip when you need them.
The cruxes for each of the climbs have more closely spaced bolts... They seem adequate to me for protection but I can see how they could feel a bit heady for other folks.
The rock quality is quite good - the rock is solid in the shallow chutes for each of the 5.10 climbs. I'm sure the rock quality will never be perfect but I / we spent a lot of time scraping and cleaning away loose surface material.
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Hey Everyone -
Climbing closures have been lifted for the rest of 2021, and all routes are open for climbing.
So get out there and enjoy the 105+ degree heat! ;D
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Thanks Gavin for the update!
Do you feel like you are turning into beef jerky?
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Do you feel like you are turning into beef jerky?
Haha - no more than normal! ;)
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So get out there and enjoy the 105+ degree heat! ;D
Thanks Gavin. I was wondering where you were at. Texas perhaps? :rolleyes:
Likely 110+ with the way the forecast has been off (up to 10 degrees)
It was 101 at 10:30 this morning. :arf:
Or is that the 101? :out:
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Dang it's only up to 109.
Guess I'll go back to earthquake prediction.
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^^^
^^^
Redeemed! It was 111 today at 12:30
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I just updated the closure list - it goes into effect today (January 18). The list is pretty consistent with previous years but let me know if you see errors / omissions.
I did add the south side of Citadel to the closures... I think this only impacts the route Sally Port and the 4th Class Descent. All climbs on the north side and at Whitetail Rock should be fine to stay open, but we've had a falcon pair nesting on the south side of Citadel for the past few years.
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^^^
Looks good from what I can see Gavin - although my vision is still shit.
Sally Port might be confusing until Brad decides how to update the new routes list (it is not listed yet).
I still cannot post the rebolting list either.
I was surprised you were able to post the closures without issue but maybe you just modified what was there instead of trying to wipe the post clean and repost as I did (fatal mistake).
I heard Aaron might be attempting a site rescue at some point.
I just want to say to Aaron - good luck...we are all counting on you...
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Thanks Gavin!!
Whew, Piglet Pinnacle is open!
Here is to a successful season!!
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^^^
I was surprised you were able to post the closures without issue but maybe you just modified what was there instead of trying to wipe the post clean and repost as I did (fatal mistake).
I was a bit surprised too... I pasted in text from a Word doc and that may have had something to do with posting without issues as well.
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I was a bit surprised too... I pasted in text from a Word doc and that may have had something to do with posting without issues as well.
I don't get it.
I just tried that on the rebolting master list and I cannot post Jack Shit.
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Heads up, gang - a pair of condors has just been confirmed nesting at Machete Ridge again and mandatory closures are going into effect today at Machete Ridge, covering the routes on the southwest portion of Machete, basically the same routes that were closed last time this same pair of condors nested at Machete Ridge 2 years ago.
Let me know if you have questions. There will be multiple signs on T-posts along the climber access trail just south of Corona / Dos Equis.
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Cool!
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So los banditos is closed?
Lower part is okay, 2 pitches of bandits in B?
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CLOSED: Pigeon Crack, Crackophobia, Son of Dawn Wall (and variations), Robots of Dawn, Icarus (and variations), Shortly Tooloose, Gambling Groove, Desperado Chute Out (and variations), Rumors, Stretch Seven, Serpiente de Cascabel, Bullseye, Derringer (and variations), Old Original (first five pitches),, Rappel Bypass, Rappel Reverse, The Hideout
Okay: All routes
Gavin - did you mean to say All OTHER Routes at the end of the statement?
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JC - yep, good catch; I just changed the last statement to "all other routes."
F4 - correct: lower pitches of Bandits in Bondage (and other Bad Man Mezzanine routes) are okay.
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What is the status of Full Circle on the Balconies (new route between The Powers That Be and Electric Blue)? Friends of Pinnacles indicates that that portion of the wall is open.
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^^^
Full Circle is squarely within the closures.
Here's what Gavin posted about the closures as they apply to The Balconies:
"Balconies / Crowley
Sensitive: All climbs on Balconies cliffs from Regular Route south to Happy Hamlin's, Balconies roof routes, Crowley Towers
Okay: All Balconies climbs from Digger north to Knifeblade and Nexus, all routes at The Flumes, all climbs below Balconies Cliffs Trail including Osirus and Toogs, Smiling Simian, and Even Coyotes Do It Doggy Style"
Regular Route is well north of Full Circle (and so, Full Circle is south of Regular Route and in the closures).
If it says differently, the FoP site is wrong.
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Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.
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I was JUST about to start another thread about that.
Can confirm: FOP claims "open."
Does Bruce still run that site?
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Gavin's not around right now, but I suspect if he were he's tell you why the far right end of The Balconies can stay open. I think he would say that there's a fairly subtle but definite bend in the lower tier of The Balconies, well to the right of Shake and Bake, just left of/at the pitches of Regular Route, and significantly left of Digger. That bend makes the far right (north) end completely not visible from the south end.
And you can figure out for yourself about where the falcons are nesting (hint, it's not near the north end).
The advantages of having a raptor biologist who is also a climber: He can make sure that raptors have all the room they need to breed successfully, without going further than is really needed.
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I was JUST about to start another thread about that.
Can confirm: FOP claims "open."
Does Bruce still run that site?
Bruce has never run that site, Brooks runs it. You should message the site and ask them to correct the misinformation?
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On it
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Just messaged them.
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have all the room they need to breed successfully, without going further than is really needed.
Reminds me of some religions teachings being against contraception while at the same time considering oral and other kinds of sex as perverted. There is some weird "Birds and bees" shit out there, to put a slight bend in the context. :)
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I'm just seeing the recent posts after some time away on vacation.
As John and Brad indicated, Full Circle is in the closure areas. There is a peregrine falcon pair that is nesting in fairly close proximity to that route.
I will check on the FoP site and try to update their closure lists... Sometimes the sections of formations they have designated for closures are a bit difficult to interpret.
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Okay, I think I just fixed the closure list on the FoP site - all Balconies sections there should be listed as closed.
As JC and Brad said, the details of routes in closures areas are more specific here on this forum, and on the official Pinnacles website.
Feel free to contact me if you have any additional closure questions.
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Hey Everyone -
I updated closures based on recent confirmation of prairie and peregrine falcon nests. I haven't updated the official Pinnacles NPS website yet or the FOP site but wanted to give you the details here first.
Here are some changes of note:
- closures are lifted from all routes at Citadel
- closures are lifted from all routes on Teapot Dome and Ball Pinnacle
- closures are lifted from all routes at Piedras Bonitas and Gargoyle, but routes in Neglected Valley at or near Knuckle Ridge, the Outcast, and Triple Decker now have closures in effect
- closures are in effect for all routes at the Hand and the Thumb, due to a peregrine falcon pair nesting there
Let me know if you have questions; I'll try to update the NPS and FOP sites soon!
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Heads up for everyone -
The condor nest effort failed at Machete Ridge, so all closures are lifted at Machete and all routes there are open for the rest of the year.
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Bummer. Is there still hope for other nests this year?
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We had 3 condor pairs attempt to nest this year. One pair already failed earlier this year, an the Machete pair is the second failed nest. The third pair is still actively nesting, and just hatched a nestling on last Friday. So there's some good news in the mix too!
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Gavin,
Just curious, and not that I would ever even think to test or risk anything, but do you have data or experience regarding buman disturbance and failed nesting for condors / peregrines?
I'm sure each species tollerates diffetent parameters.
Just curious if you have any data like "Climbers got [X] feet away, or were [Y] pitches below a nest and parents abandoned it."
I'm sure plastic ingestion has reared its ugly head once or twice...
Like I say, if you say stay away, I say yay okay.
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Closures are good for humans too. Especially if you like your scalp attached to your head.
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Closures are good for humans too. Especially if you like your scalp attached to your head.
I don't understand, are u saying a bird is going to scalp me? Or somebody else is going to scalp me for violating a closure? Is this a threat for asking my question? I feel threatened.
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. Leading while having an angry bird attack you is no fun.
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I don't understand, are u saying a bird is going to scalp me? Or somebody else is going to scalp me for violating a closure? Is this a threat for asking my question? I feel threatened.
::) >:D ::)
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I can understand Zay's concern - especially since Noal is advertising field surgery services. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yikes:
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Gavin,
Just curious, and not that I would ever even think to test or risk anything, but do you have data or experience regarding buman disturbance and failed nesting for condors / peregrines?
I'm sure each species tollerates diffetent parameters.
I heard some condors have been spotted drinking beer and smoking cigarettes while watching climbers.
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Zay -
The closures were instituted originally in the mid 1980s after climbers at Balconies passed by an active golden eagle nest. The golden eagles abandoned the site and the nest failed. Golden eagles haven't nested at Balconies - and generally at any cliffs with climbing routes in the park - since then.
There are a few issues with climbers getting near nesting sites for falcons or condors. The disturbance often flushes the adults from incubating eggs / nestlings, or prevents the adults from foraging for food to feed developing nestlings (while they're focusing on alarm calling and diving at intruding climbers). Basically more time away from the nest sites increases the likelihood of nest failure. Repeated climber disturbances of nesting falcons or condors can also alert potential predators to the locations of the nest sites, leading to higher probabilities of ravens eating eggs or young nestlings, for example.
Different falcon and condor pairs have different tolerances for human presence, but I try to set closure boundaries for raptors based on what I actually observe each season, and modify them after conducting surveys to determine where falcons are defending areas they perceive as their territories. The closures I put in effect are overall much more selective than most other areas with nesting raptors - I'm sure you've noticed blanket closures in many other climbing areas where peregrine falcons and other species are nesting. Pinnacles is rather unique in that closure areas are much more specific.
The closure model is based on many peer-reviewed published research articles over the past several decades. There is some variety in regards to recommendations but generally closure protocols call for buffer zones of 1000 feet to a half mile depending on the location and agency managers involved. Again, Pinnacles closures are much more limited in this regard than a lot of those in effect in other areas.
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Gavin,
Thank you for taking the time to respond, and so thoroughly. Like I said, in no way does my inquiry intend to question or test the closures. One of the many reasons I appreciate Pinnacles climbing culture is the fact that I can so readily engage its key players, biologists included.
Thank you for everything you do.
I read somewhere that the California Condor Population (roughly 350) has actually dropped by 20 since last year (most likely due to persistant lead toxicity). Any comment on that? Thats devastating news.
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^^^
A dozen were killed by fire.
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^^^
I prefer my condor poached or slow baked but evidently some like the taste of flame broiled.
Too soon?
I say we lobby for an end to climbing at Pinnacles and let the birds have it.
Climbing is a silly, selfish pursuit and so many of the routes are "for the birds" anyway.
Just take a hike, enjoy the scenery and go eat some good Mexican food in Soledad.
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Zay -
Lead toxicosis form ingestion of spent lead ammunition continues to be the primary threat to condors, but as JC stated the fires that burned through Big Sur also took a major toll and definitely contributed to deaths. There are other risk factors as well, but those are the main ones that have impacted population levels most recently.
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Gavin,
Does the Pinnacles closure data ever get incorporated into other management agencies findings/planning/EIS, etc?
And does it ever have a salutary value to opening other climbing areas either with reduced time per closure or reduced area of closures?
1000 feet is massive. Hopefully that's at least the diameter and not the radius length generally.
thx,
Rob
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Rob -
Closure buffers are usually measured in radius and not diameter.
Each agency - or even each location site within an agency - manages closures differently. When managers at given sites are setting up closures from scratch they often refer to different sites that already have established closures, and I have definitely given my thoughts / recommendations to different organizations and sites based on what works at Pinnacles. But obviously the extent of closures depends a lot on local conditions, threatened / endangered or just sensitive species listings and regulations, and the individual managers that maintain the closures.
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Thx, figured there would still be a lot of variability despite the nps having years of data to leverage.
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Hey everyone - just a heads up that I have lifted closures on almost all climbing routes / areas in the park. The Yaks area is still affected by closures due to an active condor nest in the area, but all other areas are open.
Let me know if you have questions. The temps have been surprisingly mild recently - only mid 80s the first part of this week - but I keep anticipating the prolonged return of intense heat soon!
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Thx, as always!
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anticipating the prolonged return of intense heat soon!
Too bad the birds don't feel this way. Breeding season needs to be during the most intense heat eh?
Then you wouldn't have to post closures anymore :imsad: :shocked: :smilewinkgrin:
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Hey Everyone -
I've just posted closure updates for January 2023. Give the text a look and let me know if you have questions or revisions I might have missed.
Note that I have instituted a few changes. All routes at Tuff Dome and H&L Dome are open. The routes on the north face of Hawkins Peak (in the Flakes area, near Where's Waldo, etc.) and on the east face (Feather Canyon, etc.) are the main areas that falcons usually nest so those are closed as usual.
I have also left routes on Teapot Dome and Ball Pinnacle open. In most years falcons nest on The Egg or nearby, so initially I will assume they will focus on that location again.
I have put The Hand under closures because a peregrine falcon pair nested there last year. The Frog and other nearby formations are still open.
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Thanks for the update.
Curious to see how the nesting goes with all of this rain.
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At a glance I did not see any issues. Thanks as always for being so accurately selective and clear.
I'm sure F4 will be overjoyed that you listed Piglet.
Everything is listed twice when I look at it but that is a separate and personal issue. :crazy:
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Piglet needs to stay open.
Working on a film project of a ascent of Piglet!
Kinda like free solo…
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Hey Gavin,
Kat noticed something puzzling that I missed.
Bynum's is listed as sensitive, yet areas and formations near it and accessed by going past/around it are not.
Is this a typo/mistake?
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F4 is sensitive
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Hey Gavin,
Kat noticed something puzzling that I missed.
Bynum's is listed as sensitive, yet areas and formations near it and accessed by going past/around it are not.
Is this a typo/mistake?
Kat is correct - Bynum's Spire should be listed as open. I just made the revision. Thanks for catching that!
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Hey All -
I updated closures today - I will try to get the corresponding lists updated on the FOP and NPS sites tomorrow as well.
We have had a few falcon nest failures... It is late enough in the season that the falcon pairs are unlikely to try again with late season re-nesting efforts. As a result, I've opened a few notable areas for climbing, including Balconies routes from Peregrine north (including Lava Falls, Shake & Bake, etc.), all Resurrection Wall routes, and all routes on Egg.
If we do see falcons trying to reuse any of these areas for nesting I'll update closures accordingly.
I'm planning to remove the closure sign near Smiling Simian tomorrow.
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Hey Everyone -
All climbing advisories and closures are officially lifted as of today (June 29). It looks like the temperatures will be cooking over the weekend, but then we may see somewhat cooler temps after that. It's certainly been a mild year here up to this point!
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105 on Saturday! Stay cool Gavin. 8)
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An unseasonable “not Pinnacle’s season” so far. It’s been nice for hiking. It had a tourists chance in Sudan of lasting.
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105 on Saturday! Stay cool Gavin. 8)
Dude, really??!!
The man positively DEFINES cool. No need to tell him the obvious.
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Hey All -
Seasonal closures are back in effect today, as usual the day after MLK Day.
The closure list is pretty similar to last year's, with closures in effect at the cliffs and formations you would expect. The Hand is closed initially, as we've had falcons nesting out there in recent years. But the Frog, Crud 'n Mud, etc. are all open. Tuff Dome, H&L Dome, and Bynum's Spire are open. Feather Canyon and related climbs are closed. Machete is fully open. Most of Citadel is open, except the southwest and south end trails / climbs as noted in recent years. Please steer clear of those spots to encourage falcons to nest there again.
Let me know if you have questions or see things I missed, and thanks for the support!
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Thank you for another year of communication and managing the closures Gavin! How many years is it now?
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20 years so far! :yikes:
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Let me know if you have questions or see things I missed, and thanks for the support!
Wow - Tuff Dome area open - cool! That may be a first since I became a Pinnhead (excluding I missed 2021, 2022 and most of 2023).
Echoing clink's thanks and adding thanks for being so concise. Much appreciated and please - keep up the good work!
P.S. I looked over the new list and I didn't see any problems or omissions.
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I forgot to mention that you bumped Brad's A List down a position with the update. :arf:
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I might suggest editing the title of this thread moving forward.
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I updated the year in the thread title, and a small typo Brad found in the text.
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It's amazing the shit we miss - especially when we are so used to seeing/reading certain things.
I have a few more corrections after looking things over again.
Osiris is spelled wrong.
In the Resurrection/Goat Rock section you have Nelson's Needle but I think you meant Numbskull's Needle since Nelson's is next to Salathe's Sliver - over by Generation Gap.
I'm also curious to know what the Balconies roof routes are. I don't see that "area" in the book. Is that the Balconies Bumps?
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Thanks for the added corrections, JC. I incorporated your suggestions.
As for the Balconies roof routes - yes I think that was just a way to describe everything on top of the Balconies formation, including routes at Balconies Bumps. I revised the text to hopefully reflect that.
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Thanks for the added corrections, JC. I incorporated your suggestions.
As for the Balconies roof routes - yes I think that was just a way to describe everything on top of the Balconies formation, including routes at Balconies Bumps. I revised the text to hopefully reflect that.
Happy to help.
I like what you did with the Balconies.
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I like what you did with the Balconies.
Yeah! Starting with Full Circle ;D ;D ;D
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I'm not super familiar with the names of routes on Balconies, so I apologize if this is already answered. I'm fairly certain is it closed since it's between Happy Hamlin's and Digger, but to be sure, is Lava Falls open (#720 in the B. Young 2007 book, pg.291)?
Also, for future reference if it is closed, is this route a walk-off, or can it be rapped with a 60m? Any other beta is appreciated. TIA.
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^
Hey Frank.
It's closed. It always closes each year along with the majority of routes at Balconies. The routes that typically stay open are on the far right end of Balconies and to my knowledge don't get much traffic.
Since the addition of Full Circle a few years ago - that route can be used to get down from Lava Falls with a single 60m.
The rappels are described in the route description.
It's on the new routes list (722.5 Full Circle 5.10d **)
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=3025.0
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Figured. Thank you!
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Heads up - we have condors nesting on the backside of Machete Ridge again, and closures have been put in effect to protect them while they are nesting. Climbs affected include everything southwest, south, and east past Corona, beginning with Son of Dawn Wall and including Derringer, the first 3 pitches of Old Original, and The Hideout.
There are affixed closure signs along the access trail past Icarus so it is abundantly clear to climbers and hikers that the area is closed.
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Another update - a falcon pair has decided to nest at Goat Rock instead of Resurrection Wall this year, so I updated the closures to reflect that. All routes at Resurrection Wall and in the vicinity are open.
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Thanks Gavin, by the way, how are the bees?
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Thanks Gavin, by the way, how are the bees?
Lemme get this straight: a guy with six daughters is asking Gavin about the birds and the bees!?
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nice
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Good one Brad!
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The fact that it took him having SIX kids to FINALLY figure out what was causing it answers your question.
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The fact that it took him having SIX kids to FINALLY figure out what was causing it answers your question.
The enormity of my self-made predicament hit me when I realized that I could no longer count my kids on one hand.
JC, Instead of geology, you should have majored in sex education. You would have been very effective. The obvious problem with too many sex education teachers is that they are just not that convincing.
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JC, Instead of geology, you should have majored in sex education. You would have been very effective. The obvious problem with too many sex education teachers is that they are just not that convincing.
My degree is actually in psychology but I identify as a geologist. That is why you and I became such fast friends. I could instinctively tell as soon as I met you that the gray matter between your ears is a pile of rocks.
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What I do like about our sessions is that you always give me the lap or couch option. :)
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Any closure updates? Not that it's cool enough to be at Pinns right now anyway!
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It's been so hot down there that even I went and climbed IT last weekend. Been more than 10 years since I have climbed anywhere but the Pinns.
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It's been so hot down there that even I went and climbed IT last weekend. Been more than 10 years since I have climbed anywhere but the Pinns.
And you should have seen him... grabbing holds on a granite cliff and trying to break them off. Sheesh.
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My grip strength is coming back.... :ihih:
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Hey All -
I just updated closures. The raptor nesting season is winding down and most climbing areas are now open again.
There are a few major exceptions - the partial closure at Machete Ridge, and closures at Yaks Wall and Crowley Towers. As most of you can likely guess, this is because we have active condor nests in these remaining areas. Condor nestlings are quite slow to develop compared to other raptors and vultures, so we need to keep these closures in place until they fledge later in the year.
Note that I did open up access to areas near Crowley Towers, including all Balconies routes and all Stronghold routes. Just please refrain from hiking or climbing right at Crowley Towers.
Let me know if you have questions. I'm guessing folks aren't likely to rush out to climb in the near future given the 100+ degree temps we're getting on most days... Though this weekend is at least calling for some high temps in the upper 80s!
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Three baby condors!? Wow!
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Hey Everyone -
I've updated the closures a bit to restrict climbing on some Stronghold routes - basically the upper tier routes from Barbarians At The Gate to Arch Nemesis. We've had observations of the breeding condor pair in the area acting agitated and stressed while people were climbing on Barbarians and the climbs in that area. For the safety of the condor nestling that the pair is raising, please steer clear of those climbs for now. Hopefully the condor young will fly from the nest in the next couple of months and I will revise closures accordingly.
For anyone interested in climbing at Stronghold, the lower tier remains open and has some great routes, especially Great Minds.
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Hey All -
I just lifted all closures at Crowley Towers and the Stronghold. The condor young there successfully fledged so that area is now open for all use.
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Hey Everyone -
I just lifted the closures at Yaks Wall and the Yaks. That entire area is open for use again.
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I never thought of checking this thread in the fall, but I guess it's a thing now. Gavin, good on you for keeping track of all the new residents.
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One more 2024 update on closures - all routes at Machete Ridge are now open to hiker and climber access, and all closures at the park have been lifted for the remainder of the year.
Remember that closures related to raptor nesting go into effect the day after MLK Day... which actually gives us a bit more time to go climbing throughout the park in January than normal, as MLK Day falls on January 20th this year.
Besides a bit of rain, we're getting very nice days with highs in the 60s to low 70s right now!
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Hey All -
Climbing closures are in effect again as of today (January 21, 2025). They should look pretty similar to previous years. A couple things that might stand out: Goat Rock routes are closed, but all climbing on Resurrection Wall is open. All routes on Machete Ridge are currently open, but this may change (sometime in February) if condors decide to nest there again. Feather Canyon, Rituals & Magic, and associated climbs are closed, but the summit routes on Tuff Dome, H&L Dome, etc. are open.
Let me know if you have questions and thanks for your support!
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Thanks, Gavin, as always.
It looks like The Northeast Frontier is open?
A bunch of us climbed at Goat Rock yesterday, by the way. We saw no signs of falcons until the end of the day. We sat by Possibility Pinnacle then and watched two soaring and circling (Prairie Falcons to my untrained eye). It was petty clear that these were the pair nesting at Goat. So fun to watch them.
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Yep, Northeast Frontier is open.
Nice to hear about falcons near Goat Rock. At this time of year, the peregrine pair that ends up nesting at Hawkins often spends time in the Goat Rock area too. The prairie falcons should start to be more fcused defending the Goat Rock area as the month goes on.
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Pretty disappointing to see two European women who climbed Lava Falls today. They claimed that the "closures aren't on Mountain Project," which I don't think is true in the first place. And what about the signs. Willful ignorance, it seemed.
But justice was served in the long run. Plains justice perhaps? Jennifer saw them later in their tank tops, sitting on the side of the trail trying to get into some shade.
Both of them tucked well up into fresh, gleaming poison oak branches.
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They likely won't get the itch to climb Lava anytime soon again.
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They likely won't get the itch to climb Lava anytime soon again.
Alright, that was pretty damn good, Waldo.
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I’m glad someone spoke with them. They were so glaringly obvious from across the canyon.
Willful ignorance or worse!
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Hey All -
I've lifted all climbing closures at the park for rest of the year, effective as of today (June 30).
The daytime temps are slowly climbing as the summer moves along, but there are some cooler days forecast in the near future - right now the high temp on July 4th is forecast to be only 85 degrees!