MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Gavin on February 19, 2012, 05:44:26 PM
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A couple of weeks ago - while out with Waldo and CruxLuv - I led Robot of Dawn for the first time. Very fun climb with great and steep opening moves. However, there is definitely rock quality deterioration between the 3rd and 5th bolts... Standing on the stone knob above the 3rd bolt, I noted 3 places on the face where rock had clearly peeled off recently (in foot-diameter sections), just where you wanted there to be holds! It required quite a thin and careful ascent just left of where the bolt line seemed to indicate.
It seemed like the thin and unstable rock in that section might warrant an upgrade, at least to 5.11b. I was wondering if anyone else had that sense while climbing it recently. I know Kurt climbed it in late December... Perhaps he'll weigh in. At any rate, just thought I'd mention it!
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The Pinnacles motto: Get an early ascent while the holds are still there!
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I lead it a couple of times years ago and I am not surprised it is more difficult. the rock between those two bolts was very loose. There was one hold in particular that I used ever time that had temporary written all over it.
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ummm....I may have broke off a hold or two...did it this past year, fall I believe...
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Insert Quote
ummm....I may have broke off a hold or two...did it this past year, fall I believe...
Revoke his card!
Back to Discovery wall!
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Joe you are supposed to know better. Are you not a mud meister?
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just a poser...
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Yup, Joe's just in it for the Facebook photos.
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I talked with Gavin about this last week at the Monolith. I climbed the route in December with my friend Jimmy. We both thought the opening steep section to bolt three was solid and great, and then Gavin's description matches our experience. there was some really loose holds and obvious broken/missing sections, and a key thin flexing hold that we both tried to minimally use, feeling it could pop real easy. I think it may be harder now up there. We did the first 3 pitches of Son of Dawn after that, and at least P1 of that felt way more solid, rock-wise than the upper 1/2 of Robots.