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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: cobbledik on February 20, 2012, 02:13:07 PM

Title: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: cobbledik on February 20, 2012, 02:13:07 PM
Loved this St. Valentine's Day Massacre photo TR by Clint Cummins with bolt replacement info that was on ST.com

Figured why not repost here. (All photos credit Clint Cummins)
- - - - - - -

Bruce leading on Condor Crags, with a condor patrolling overhead
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187177_30206_L.jpg)

Bruce rebolting on St. Valentine's Day Massacre
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187178_25275_L.jpg)

Bruce installing a new 3/8" x 3.5" stainless steel Powerbolt
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187180_30268_L.jpg)

3/8" Star Dryvin bolt, SMC chrome moly hanger, before replacement
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187182_27774_L.jpg)

Using Bruce's crowbar to pull the nail on the Star Dryvin bolt.
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187183_9229_L.jpg)

We use a 3/8" lag bolt (screw) to remove the lead sheath from the Star Dryvin bolt.
A 1/4" lag bolt works on 1/4" taper bolts and Zamacs.
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187184_13186_L.jpg)

After the lag screw engages the lead sheath, we use the crowbar to pop it out of the hole.

(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/6/57/187185_12589_L.jpg)
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: F4? on February 20, 2012, 02:16:26 PM
Nice!

That route is so much better now with new bolts. They did a nice job on replacing the keychain bolts that were on it.
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: mynameismud on February 20, 2012, 02:16:48 PM
Awesome, thank you.

I would have never seen this.
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: cobbledik on February 20, 2012, 03:00:05 PM
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1385529/Condors-at-Pinnacles-National-Monument (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1385529/Condors-at-Pinnacles-National-Monument)
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: F4? on February 20, 2012, 06:36:48 PM
Quote
I would have never seen this.

Squiddo and I were there the next weekend or so.

It was nice to see the old bolts gone and the new bolts in nice rock.
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: squiddo on February 21, 2012, 03:52:54 PM
Quote from: F4? on February 20, 2012, 06:36:48 PM
Squiddo and I were there the next weekend or so.

It was nice to see the old bolts gone and the new bolts in nice rock.

Yep, fun route and even better with new gear.
Title: Re: Rebolting by Clint at Condor Crags (Repost from ST.com)
Post by: waldo on February 21, 2012, 05:04:48 PM
There used to be a place for a yellow alien between the bolts on the east face.  I might skip that now.