MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on March 05, 2012, 01:40:38 PM
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Being a neophyte to Mud n Crud and a newbie lead climber, I'm just wondering what I'm up against to graduate from the peepers category? I bagged my 21st onsight lead this past weekend and I've been leading since just before Christmas...how am I doin'? All my leads have been in the Pinns...my first and several others in the High Peaks and on the West Side since the closures...I'm hooked...
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Just ask, there is a moderator out there that's gonna love you. :-*
Welcome to the club.
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Hmmmm, High Peaks and West Side "since the closure?" them's slim pickins.
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Hmmmm, High Peaks and West Side "since the closure?" them's slim pickins.
Yes my wording was misleading...High Peaks before the closures and West Side since...did both pitches of Lichen to Lead this past Sat. Read your post about Hunting Spiders somewhere else(summit.org maybe?) and got a good laugh from the pulling out bowling ball size rocks ref. We cleared off "Lichen" a bit (I've never yelled "rock!" so much) if anyone else has a mind to jump on it. Stepping out/up to the sling knob was exciting! Ignoring the choss and the runout, it turned out to be a fun adventure with the scramble to the top and down the backside.
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Watch out, Mud n Crudders...this guy's nothing but trouble.
His wife's even worse. (no, it's not me)
>:D
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That would have been on Rockclimbing.com routes me thinks (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Central_California_Coast/Pinnacles_National_Monument/Flumes_Formation_The/Hunting_Spiders_103553.html (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Central_California_Coast/Pinnacles_National_Monument/Flumes_Formation_The/Hunting_Spiders_103553.html))
But no, seriously, two bowling ball sized rocks. Pulled one and immediately jumped to another. I remember having just enough time to think, "wow, i'm pretty good" before the second rock pulled out and I fell with just enough time to think, "wow, my partner's right in the firing lane of these boulders. Prob should have made her use a grigri."
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All your leads in the Pins on the West Side and High Peaks. That is impressive. Not many can say that, most folks spend a bit more time in the Gulch. The groupings are by post count. As you can tell the admin is not very creative. A few are in a category of their own. Brad is in the 800 club since he has done over 800 routes. Munge is Mr BLL since all he drinks is Bud Light Lime.
If you want to get out of the peepers category you either have to stand out which you are beginning to do just by leading crud out of the gate or you have to post more.
cruxlux is aiming for her own category of QOC.
there is some good stuff on the East Side also and you do not have to climb in the Gulch. Marmot, Frog, Hand. Then there is the new slabby stuff on Machete, Trainspotting, what else come on guys help me out. Gerties is short but worth a visit and gets good Sun on cold days.
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The "Newer" routes on the sisters look interesting and I've been meaning to get out there but haven't yet.
If he likes the West side he should do his penance on Tiburcio's X (East side but go up the center and you'll be right at home)
Hamsters?
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All your leads in the Pins on the West Side and High Peaks. That is impressive.
If you want to get out of the peepers category you either have to stand out which you are beginning to do just by leading crud out of the gate or you have to post more.
I can't quite claim all of my leads so far in that category - damn you conscience! I did Sinbad early on along with 1st Sister's Center and Left Routes. Thanks for the other recommendations...I need to learn more about placing trad so I can branch out...
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It is good to be a bit cautious when going trad at the Pins. More than one person has zippered pro. What looks bommer in other area's may not be so at the Pins. It is super cool stuff though. The stuff on the Sisters is pretty cool. Many of us did our time there.
Not sure if there is a pecking order, it is more of a free for all. :)
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Watch out, Mud n Crudders...this guy's nothing but trouble.
His wife's even worse. (no, it's not me)
>:D
that's COLD! where is the LUV? your mushy exterior must be obfuscating a heart of darkness!!
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It is good to be a bit cautious when going trad at the Pins. More than one person has zippered pro. What looks bommer in other area's may not be so at the Pins. It is super cool stuff though. The stuff on the Sisters is pretty cool.
I am trying to be super careful. I've only had occasion to place three nuts so far - two in opposition on Twinkle Toes pitch 1 and one this past weekend on Lichen's first pitch. I felt like the opposing setup was bomber - providing the rock held, but the one on Lichen was listed as so-so and that rock was definitely questionable. I'd just like to try some of the routes that have a stray piece here and there for now...I don't have any cams yet b/c I want to get good at placing passive stuff first (I only have nuts and hexes) - the guidebook seems to specify cams on quite a few of the combo routes though - so I'm starting to wonder if having just a few to start would be a good idea...thoughts?
I agree that 1st Sister is big fun - mostly for the exposure and views - felt more like a solo than a lead most of the time - probably better to treat it that way b/c a fall on that slabby stuff would be hideous!
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Brass ones will get you a long ways....
I only have nuts
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Cams are a good addition. I would not hesitate to pick a few up. Mix them up with passive gear and see how they complement each other. Aliens are still the standard for thin stuff even at the Pins although the green purple camalots are super bomber ( I am not familiar with the new sizes)
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Brass ones will get you a long ways....
I see what you did there
And don't forget the best type of protection at the pinnacles, who needs nuts and cans when you have slings! But seriously, I like spectra/dynema slings because they're thinner which can get around smaller chicken heads and knobs.
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In order to master climbing at The Pinnacles you have to play many different games. You need loose rock skills, a runout resistant headspace, and be able to deal with sketchy pro which often means bad bolts. Once you can deal with at least two of those skills at a time you go beyond "Peepers" status and become a "Mudder."
I'd be carefull to not gain the unsaid "4th skill" or the even rarer "5th Element" of The Pinns, at which point you may find your self in the unfortunate "800 Club" or "BLL" crew.
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BOLTS!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fKAyUhlZ1Cc/Tm7Yc_xnxpI/AAAAAAAAF94/lQAJQStmjOY/s400/IMG_1862.JPG)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qEJ1SFHazG8/TxRlheH-_4I/AAAAAAAAHA0/xMotyM0WKDI/s400/DSC01886.JPG)
CAMS!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--Lw6HnQm2jE/TrDDP6aWfHI/AAAAAAAAGkU/C2VHLx096ns/s400/DSC01509.JPG)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xNNpp4IIuFI/TuWtU2GFGRI/AAAAAAAAG0s/g6KHby1BJ4c/s400/Cam%2520in%2520Spiderwebs.JPG)
SLINGS!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ozOWyiHIx2A/TxRlZuE-B-I/AAAAAAAAHAU/OIuEXK4K3AY/s400/DSC01876.JPG)
4TH SKILL!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GvL4O3r21L8/TngLJj06yrI/AAAAAAAAFwM/g2DvfRtI1_0/s400/DSC01051.JPG)
WARNING! All placements for novelty aid purposes only.
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Slung knobs on second pitch of Tilting Terrace -
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6808401284_d6f53361a0_z.jpg)
I also like the smaller tricams for the occasional hole, like on Dragonfly Dome.
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Agree on the tricams. I fell away from these but have returned to them recently. They often fill the trick part of tricky placements.
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Tricam!
This thread has real promise with pics.
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I wish it were easier to post photos here, I would insert the Mickey Mouse bottle opener that Gavin and I discovered as 'pro'...
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Cams are a good addition. I would not hesitate to pick a few up. Mix them up with passive gear and see how they complement each other. Aliens are still the standard for thin stuff even at the Pins although the green purple camalots are super bomber ( I am not familiar with the new sizes)
thanks Mud,
I looked at cams yesterday and the Camalots seem to be the best value with double axle and greatest range. Gearexpress.com is messing with my thrifty side since they have all their Wild Country tech friends on closeout - now the Helium friends are out too - arghhh- too many choices!
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Right click properties, paste, embed.
Is it on FB?
Share it to me, ill post it if u want.
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Slings......RHYANG likely knows this shot/local.
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-kDD6RwH/1/M/IMG0044-M.jpg)
Now if I could only find that tri-cam shot(s)
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In order to master climbing at The Pinnacles you have to play many different games. You need loose rock skills, a runout resistant headspace, and be able to deal with sketchy pro which often means bad bolts. Once you can deal with at least two of those skills at a time you go beyond "Peepers" status and become a "Mudder."
i am a long ways from being a master at anything but I think I got a good taste of all those criteria "stacked" on Lichen to Lead. Not sure i would trust some of the bolts based on their age and the rock quality. my sketchy pro was a pretty solid nut placement in the back of the chute that Brad shows as so-so pro on the topo. it gave me a slight boost since i just ran out that section the first time i did P1 - i affectionately referred to that chossy section between the last bolt and the anchor at the top of P1 as Hell and Gone from Cartagena...As far as the overall climb i've never yelled "rock" so many times and i've been on some runout but not like that! i still think it's a cool climb and an adventurous scramble/walkoff...
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BOLTS!
CAMS!
SLINGS!
WARNING! All placements for novelty aid purposes only.
Those pics are great! I have clipped some pretty scary bolts/hangers in the High Peaks but nothing as sketchy as those! That one looks like it would do about as much good as a wood nail in a soda can pull tab! Whenever I clip something suspicious I just remind myself that a fall is unacceptable and climb like it's a solo...
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Slung knobs on second pitch of Tilting Terrace -
I also like the smaller tricams for the occasional hole, like on Dragonfly Dome.
Thanks for that pic and advice - looks like i need to go back and lead P2 on Tilting Terrace to get some more sling practice - I led P1 and then went up Adam's Apple instead - my first and only 5.9 so far...
I did find a nice hole on Lichen to Lead but very questionable that the lip around the opening was thick enough/sturdy enough to hold anything - I had nuts and hexes but nothing would snug...
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Slings......RHYANG likely knows this shot/locale
Now if I could only find that tri-cam shot(s)
Thanks for the "welcome to the club" - conjures one of my fave Joe Walsh tunes.
That looks like a threaded hole in tafoni-style graywacke - I'll take a wild guess and say Castle Rock...
Okay I've done lots of research and it seems to make the most sense to go with Camalots for maximum range and overlap but also quite pricey - I can bite the bullet and get 25.5% off if I buy the whole set(#.4 to #6)or 18.5% if I get at least 3 at a time. The cheaper option is to go with the Wild Country Tech Friends on closeout since they are being replaced by the new Heliums. I can get (#0.5 to #3.5) - 7 pieces for just under $320 but the largest one's range is only 2" to 3.25". I seem to see a lot of folks with elaborate racks laid out at the Pinns but few actually placing anything - or just a piece or two. I don't particularly want to lay out a bunch of dough for something I won't use much. My plan is to continue to lead primarily in Pinns for a long time. I have nothing against going elsewhere but I'm not able to do long road trips more than a couple times a year - AND there's enough stuff in Pinns to keep me busy indefinitely. I'm perfectly happy to clip bolts, sling knobs and place an occasional trad piece. Okay - the rookie's gonna shut up now and wait for some input from all you pros...
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there was a recent thread on the taco about what cams people use...may want to check it out...my personal bias is BD from large to 3/4, aliens the rest of the way all the way to black, I also keep a few tcu's on my rack yellow, orange, sometimes red...
but for the pinns, most people here will down play the fact that you can climb for years there and never really need to place a piece...that said, if you're building a rack, I would get the best (i.e., Black Diamond, aliens) and you'll never be disappointed...
personal bias only...
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Team ProMud reporting for posting duty sir!
Most times I'm at Pinns, I bring, at most, a half rack, unless i have specific routes in mind.
That means:
single set of cams to #3 (camalot)
single set of aliens to the big purple and black ones (forgot the numbers), but these are good for cobble pockets where wider camalots won't always work. Don't bother with black baby alien size at pinns.
couple tri cams (as many as you can afford or want to carry. Often these fit solution pockets. Btw, that sling pic of Squiddos is on Power Dome, Courtright, last pitch of a classic line!
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I agree with Joe. I have had quite a few different cams over the years and the standard is BD down to the Red Alien. Aliens from there down to low balls. Lowe Balls down to rp's. BD's and Aliens will get you up just about anything. The BD's hold up a bit better than others ( for the most part) I have to put that caveat in there since I know someone that has been climbing on rigid friends for, well, forever.
I had some problems with tech friends after taking big whippers on them and the cable/stem getting all funky.
To summerize you cannot go wrong with BD's and Aliens.
I used to always climb with a few thin runners/slings that I would use here and there. The thin tape that is used for aid climbing works real good, you do not want to fall very far on it but in a pinch it is better than nothing.
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Jc- You wrote:
i am a long ways from being a master at anything but I think I got a good taste of all those criteria "stacked" on Lichen to Lead. Not sure i would trust some of the bolts based on their age and the rock quality
Are you speaking of the bolts on the route Lichen to lead? I replaced the 2 protection bolts (one on P2, one on P3)
If speaking of the crappy bolts posted above, the hangers would fail before those beefy star dryvins, or the rock!
Hope they didn't go bad just yet ;) ?
Glad to see you psyched for pins man! hope to see you around soon, then the leap over the summer right?
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People with elaborate racks that only place a few pieces might be better understood as, unless you know exactly what climb you're going to do and have exact beta on it, you have the elaborate rack so that when you need those "only a few" pieces, you have them.
Marginal pieces that you place because the right size is missing or already used don't do a lot for piece of mind when you climb above them, and when you climb above them on Pinns rock, they do even less for piece of mind.
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I do have an elaborate rack.
Oh wait - we're talking climbing gear, huh?
:P
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Drunk posting at 9 am again?
NICE!
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I do have an elaborate rack.
Oh wait - we're talking climbing gear, huh?
:P
Ha!
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there was a recent thread on the taco about what cams people use...may want to check it out...my personal bias is BD from large to 3/4, aliens the rest of the way all the way to black, I also keep a few tcu's on my rack yellow, orange, sometimes red...
but for the pinns, most people here will down play the fact that you can climb for years there and never really need to place a piece...that said, if you're building a rack, I would get the best (i.e., Black Diamond, aliens) and you'll never be disappointed...
personal bias only...
Thanks for the input joe. Sorry but I am not familiar with "the taco". By large BD do you mean #6? I have only been on a few leads so far where I placed a piece. I have just been looking through the guidebook at some of the starred routes I want to do and some require pro - e.g. the Cone, Dragonfly, etc. I love the High Peaks!
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single set of cams to #3 (camalot)
Btw, that sling pic of Squiddos is on Power Dome, Courtright, last pitch of a classic line!
Thanks munge,
So you don't usually carry cams bigger than #3?
I looked up Courtright - wow!
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Drunk posting at 9 am again?
NICE!
Yeah...got a late start today...
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thanks for the input joe. sorry but i am not familiar with "the taco".
Tacostand is supertopo.
Here' s the thread he referred to
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1755445/what-cams-do-you-use (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1755445/what-cams-do-you-use)
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Jc- You wrote:
Not sure i would trust some of the bolts based on their age and the rock quality
Are you speaking of the bolts on the route Lichen to lead?
Hope they didn't go bad just yet ;) ?
Josh - the bolts you replaced on Lichen's pitches looked good. the first bolt/hanger at the bottom of the start is the one that looks old but the rock there is still good - Kat used that one as her belay anchor to get me going on lead. the thing that i was concerned with on lead was the length of fall the upper bolts would have to sustain because of the crazy runout and esp the one on P2(the second part of what Brad calls P1) - b/c the rock turns rotten through that section... although based on the grade, falling there would probably involve tripping over your own feet or having multiple holds break off simultaneously! i thought i remembered one with epoxy but that may be the last one on the route. at any rate i appreciate the work you did b/c we had a blast on the route! i am psyched to do a trip with you this summer!
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People with elaborate racks that only place a few pieces might be better understood as, unless you know exactly what climb you're going to do and have exact beta on it, you have the elaborate rack so that when you need those "only a few" pieces, you have them.
thanks for that and for the supertopo link to taco - that's a good perspective for me to keep in mind. i normally have several climbs picked out when we head out but i never have the exact beta(only the guidebook) b/c then i would not consider it an onsight lead and it would also detract from the adventure component - which for me is a big part of the fun...
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@Josh
Some people do not realize that Star Dryves can actually be good. I did not trust those things at all for quite some time. After climbing for a bit I learned they are a good bolt. Now I do not trust button heads but even those can be good.
It can also be a long process to determin what is good rock, what isn't and what will just work for a while.
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by large cams I mean BD #2, #3, #4, #5
that's what I use anyway, I believe most oh dub affecionados prefer Wild Country larger than that...
I also routinely carry 1 #1, 1 #3/4 in BD and their equivalent in Aliens (orange, and clear)
from there down aliens red, grey, yellow, double green, a yellow tcu
and add or subtract as needed with other gear (e.g., blue or black aliens, orange or red tcu, sometimes blue, or even the small blue BD, but I don't like that piece)
more info than you want I'm sure...
if you know Lisa, are you in the cruz? if so, look me up at the edge and I'm happy to talk gear with you...
btw, I just got an e-mail from Rock Creek indicating that BD cams are on sale...
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by large cams I mean BD #2, #3, #4, #5
that's what I use anyway, I believe most oh dub affecionados prefer Wild Country larger than that...
I also routinely carry 1 #1, 1 #3/4 in BD and their equivalent in Aliens (orange, and clear)
from there down aliens red, grey, yellow, double green, a yellow tcu
and add or subtract as needed with other gear (e.g., blue or black aliens, orange or red tcu, sometimes blue, or even the small blue BD, but I don't like that piece)
more info than you want I'm sure...
if you know Lisa, are you in the cruz? if so, look me up at the edge and I'm happy to talk gear with you...
btw, I just got an e-mail from Rock Creek indicating that BD cams are on sale...
thanks for the clarifcation and the heads up on Rock Creek. I have been following gearexpress b/c they have no tax and free shipping over $50 + 10% off on 3 or more cams. RC beats that by a little with current prices. Yes we are members at the edge an for all I know we have talked - I'm the dude with the funky headbands and usually orange shirt...
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In order to master climbing at The Pinnacles you have to play many different games. You need loose rock skills, a runout resistant headspace, and be able to deal with sketchy pro which often means bad bolts. Once you can deal with at least two of those skills at a time you go beyond "Peepers" status and become a "Mudder."
I'd be carefull to not gain the unsaid "4th skill" or the even rarer "5th Element" of The Pinns, at which point you may find your self in the unfortunate "800 Club" or "BLL" crew.
Am I the only one who appreciated Adam's wit here? It's a pretty damn clever post ... well it is up to the part about the unfortunate 800 Club.
I submit that the "unsaid fourth skill" is an ability to ignore better climbing venues (including those closer to one's home) in favor of our beloved Pinnacles.
"The Fifth Element" is easy: age. Some of us have been climbing at Pinns since some of you were in diapers (and those extra years of climbing mean extra routes climbed).
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Check on the 5th...but there's a 6th....bad memory. That way you can forget the suffering.
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For those that do not know, the 800 club is for those fortunate or unfortunate few that have climbed at least 800 routes at the Pins.
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Check on the 5th...but there's a 6th....bad memory. That way you can forget the suffering.
check on those - but i tend to remember suffering(or take notes!)...those that forget the past...
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This should read lead 800 routes.
For those that do not know, the 800 club is for those fortunate or unfortunate few that have climbed at least 800 routes at the Pins.
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This should read lead 800 routes.
in good style, meaning bottom to top no falls.
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I haven't discovered the 6th yet... not sure if I want to.
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If anyone needs some fresh gear Joe turned me on to the fact that Rock Creek has their stuff on sale - but only for a couple more days(ends March 19th) - BD Cams are 15%-16% off with no tax and no shipping - saved a bundle - I try to "think local first" but hey - do the math - 10% off (member discount) + CA tax = 1.5% discount @ Pac Edge versus 15/16+8.5 = 23.5/24.5%. There's discounts on lots of other stuff too!
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This is a little late, but Squiddo's pic is from Courtright Reservoir, on Power Dome. Here is a tricam shot from A Little Nukey (5.9) -
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6088/6067579573_b401b3e4c6_z.jpg)
Really fun ! A couple of tricams come in handy on Dragonfly Dome too.
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This is a little late
cool pic. better late than never. i ordered the black, pink and red tricams on cobbledik's rec. i am anxious to go back up and do Dragonfly along with several other routes nearby.
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got my camalots , tricams and aliens added to my pre-existing rack of passive gear (nuts, hexes and sewn dyneema runners). is there any consensus or opinion on Omega Pacific's Link Cams? anybody have 'em? use 'em often? like 'em? some people swear by 'em as a panic piece or for unusal placements and others say they'll "explode" if placed incorrectly. thoughts?
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cool pic. better late than never. i ordered the black, pink and red tricams on cobbledik's rec. i am anxious to go back up and do Dragonfly along with several other routes nearby.
Be careful...the black and whites are SO easy to get stuck I bought them thinking I might only get one or two uses. Three placements later they are on their fourth life. Even with very careful consideration they are sooo small...
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Be careful...the black and whites are SO easy to get stuck
squiddo - i take it from the quote you are referring to the tricams...i'm not too worried about getting those stuck since they are only about $20 each...the OP Link Cams are about $100 each...no one mentioned them in any of the previous recs on this thread but i had a guy who's an old pro at Pinns but not on M'nC rec them so i thought i'd put it back out there for some feedback...
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Right.....Brad Young has an opinion on them. I own the two largest sizes and see the value. From a "building a rack" POV though I'd steer away.
I WAY prefer BD C4's (or even WC Friends) over them. There are reams of comments on MP.com if you are curious. Ask ten people you'll get 10 responses.
They serve a purpose but require some knowledge on placing....placing them wrong renders them dangerous too easily. They are also a tad heavier and pricy. Take it with a grain of salt but I consider them a specialist piece. Great for "back of the harness" in building a belay when you are not certain what the next pitch holds.
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OP Link cams are fixed/stuck all over Yosemite. I've seen too many reports of fractures to ever want to spend my monies on a link cam.
If you're going to be aiding C1 though, I'd probably try to borrow some to fix to each aider.
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I third the way sticky comments. do not like them green eggs and ham
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thanks for all the feedback - i'll stick with my camalots and aliens and nix the idea of link cams for now. i did happen to notice that gearX.com has a bunch of stuff 20% off until the 15th - camalots are about sold out but they have the new heliums and my fave biners - most places usually only do 10%...or 20% with tax so this is a crag snag...especially if ur a dirtbag...
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i've also done quite a bit of research into determining manufacturing dates on gear - some of the bigger retailers don't do such a great job rotating their stock...let the buyer beware!
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I bought the red and gold Link Cams when I was on a road trip and realized on day two that I'd left half of my rack at home. They were the cheapest way to cover the largest span of cracks (and thus to fill in for the missing gear).
They're OK; sometimes even useful, especially in three situations:
1. As a desperate "reach-for" piece in a hard part of a crack climb (when you absolutely want your first piece to go in);
2. As gear on the back of the harness, left there until the belay to give the maximum number of size choices in setting up the anchor;
3. Actually, at Pinns, in some situations where you want the absolute most metal touching the absolute most rock (fully retracted Link Cams have a lot more metal in contact with more rock).
But I admit that I don't really fully trust them. And I'm very cautious to place them with the stem as close to straight down whenever possible. And I keep them clean since the spring action seems weaker than I'd like (and dirt reduces that spring action).
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thanks Brad. now i just need a mentor to school me in some trad - i haven't forgotten what you rec'd but i'd like to work on placing at Pinns and not at Disco or Mono - at least not on the weekend - what a ZOO yesterday! btw Kat and I finally did Portent two weeks ago on a Friday - amazing fun! followed it with Reg Route on Mono - a superstar day!
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I talked to a friend who did NIAD with Hans Florine, who requested they must bring a bunch of link cams or no go. Hans swears by them... does that mean anything?
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Since this thread diverged into some gear talk I just wanted to put a big hardy thanks to all those folks contributing to helping me start a decent Pinns rack. I led Dragonfly Dome the weekend before the rendezvous placing two cams and two tricams. What a great route!
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Good to hear it worked out.
Not sure if Hans' gear rack works for the rest of us. How many pieces does he place and does he ever fall?
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Being a neophyte to Mud n Crud and a newbie lead climber, I'm just wondering what I'm up against to graduate from the peepers category? I bagged my 21st onsight lead this past weekend and I've been leading since just before Christmas...how am I doin'? All my leads have been in the Pinns...my first and several others in the High Peaks and on the West Side since the closures...I'm hooked...
I thought I would go back and resurrect one of my old posts (my 5th post to be exact - OCD ya know) for our Pinns anniversary today. It was 10 years ago that Kat and I hiked into the High Peaks and went to Flatiron to do my first lead. I hemmed and hawed around the base for about 45 minutes and finally climbed almost to the first bolt on the Regular Route in my hiking boots. I went back down and put on climbing shoes and the rest was history. A couple years ago on this date, we went back to repeat the route and after leading it again, I wondered why I ever kept climbing at Pinns. On a subsequent trip out - working on various rebolting there, I realized that the route only goes up for 3 bolts and then sneaks around left and runs it out to the anchor (on the same upper terrain as Lost Fortune). Those upper bolts belong to the other route that goes up the ramp (Flatiron Apron Right 5.0). Things that make you go hmmmm...
Now after not being able to climb for almost a year, I wonder what the future will bring.
I am working to try and make sure that whatever it brings, it is something good.
Muddy Christmas everyone :guitar: :blahblah: :thumbup: :arf:
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUJgqBJb1VXiCL79jqgg09c2_q8Idvv4H1LGXYy9rZaOFfhjz0FBC62majXYSfWEv0Ooiu7w-9WXZoazIjlAE4uRjAmRKiwS_TRIMq-pkJpTAQkwdoPbYOo7Kvbh7QHyeTf3tqhd72J0JWG1ZFryizJ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXY-W65OErETRwyQy6RqJbxGCcczRHYL6L7gElDZV15NJN_GYaD3WfUDMCVOyyPdzC9RFzrHTwoyiqi9wV5Ta13lB6u5ftpbL5Vk-4Q5bbAqNbeK4SkCatBTXyv6gnxZ2LQ-MSjrdLTcqTTYmzDxuRB=w504-h378-no?authuser=0)
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And the rest that is history is great history.
Sorry to observe this, but you look a little younger in the photos from ten years ago >:D
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And what a history!!!! Glad you joined the groups and added some color.
Who is still using them link cams??
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^^^
Yep - i noticed the age difference and how new my rope looked in the other shots from that outing. .
I have a couple anchor selfies from that day too but they are pretty awful since I was so new at point and snoot. (not a typo)
The angle makes me look a little like yosomighty.
It's been a helluva ride.
Waterfalls should be nice down there today.
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Yer more than ten years younger than Yosonutty in that picture.
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I looked back in my records tto see what I was doing over the years on this date (12-23)
In 2012 I was climbing in one of those "other" places.
In 2013 Kat and I climbed Seldom Seen Pinnacle
In 2014 I was working at Soap Box Slab with clink and mungie
In 2015 it was rainy.
In 2016 we were rained out after finishing Hoof It with Brad and clink the day before
In 2017 we repeated the Flatiron Regular Route, shaking our heads afterwards.
In 2018 Kat and I did Seven Year Itch and a little cleanup rebolting
In 2019 I was down with a pulled back and a variety of other issues that I realize now were warning signs of what was to come
In 2020 Kat and I had fun climbing new Pinns routes in a yet-to-be disclosed location
In 2021 I was grateful that I could function fairly normally again but not to the point of climbing
Ahhhh...the sun is shining and I may be able to get the uni out today...
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a variety of other issues that I realize now were warning signs of what was to come
I slept the sleep of the dead last night. I think I may even have started a slight bit of decomposing.
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I slept the sleep of the dead last night. I think I may even have started a slight bit of decomposing.
That ship sailed long ago.
But it does remind me:
Some time ago, the German government decided it needed to disinter Ludwig Beethoven in order to do some genetic testing. After he was dug up, they pulled the lid off his sarcophagus. The scientific team looked in and then stood there utterly shocked. Beethoven was laying in his coffin with sheet music in one hand and an eraser in the other. Finally, one of the scientists overcame her shock enough to stammer: Beethoven, you have been dead for centuries, what are you doing?
Beethoven sat up, looked at the scientists, held up the sheet music and the eraser and said: well, obviously, I am de-composing.
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de-composing
Interesting that Beethoven died at my young age of 56.
But it does remind me of the leper, that told the hooker, to keep the tip.
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^^^
Which reminds me that we have now finished the two routes above The Joy of Hooking. They are: Off the Hook (was to be named Having Hooked, but Gavin suggested this better name). Notably, BAP got the first lead of this one.
The second route above is Once a Hooker.
Both are 60 to 65 feet long, starting from the top anchor of The Joy of Hooking. Both well protected and a lot of fun.
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^^^
What are they rated?
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^^^
What are they rated?
These two were unusually hard to rate. But we settled on 5.7 and 5.8.
My idea is that a climber would lead The Joy of Hooking before leading these. But it is an easy rap to the top anchor for the aid route from bottom anchor for the chimney route you and Gavin did. And then do the free climbing back out.
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This pic is pretty hideous but I have to post it for clink
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWXHQAj0fBz7M5s9HvAvZUJ_ZQb1X-oB7ArlRIgjbg6yBcqdAnSLJWXitVqxbC_IeEK9p-cfx-mfq_LPEEDnpfkRbXm8fF8CKd6a3t_qZ40VB_8ILpQApjnSVdB70vk6vL-5y4Ryd4dtaYeCrL5T_GW=w756-h567-no?authuser=0)
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These two were unusually hard to rate. But we settled on 5.7 and 5.8.
My idea is that a climber would lead The Joy of Hooking before leading these. But it is an easy rap to the top anchor for the aid route from bottom anchor for the chimney route you and Gavin did. And then do the free climbing back out.
Sounds great.
Wish I could have participated more out there but at this point I'll be happy just to get back out and check em out.
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Sounds great.
Wish I could have participated more out there but at this point I'll be happy just to get back out and check em out.
It sure sounds like you are getting there. A little more patience?
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^^^
Way more than a little but it is what it is.
Successfully dropped off the Northstar to new owners this morning.
Went to a good home in Felton.
Here I am doing some early evening yoga stretching in preparation for a hike the next day to the summit of Picacho Peak.
Super cool hike with lots of cabled sections. About as close as you can get to climbing without roping up.
The peak is visible and centered above the camper roof.
It's not Pinnacles but it is volcanic crud.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVAYVjBgzzbxC_g8AlETa-DXnGmbxcLq-gLDh1KaKYowvMb12p5avtCLj1F54poW8tUCoJQ15mIY9lv0dGl4oh7dhiY_OQaZJF3lvicgcNpncdbr_ErX1rqSc36MuxI0zahQeEeyq6sxSWwvY1P2kyI=w756-h567-no?authuser=0)
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Here I am doing some early evening yoga stretching.
No wonder your forehead height is growing. How long do you flatten it into the ground?
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Here I am doing some early evening yoga stretching in preparation for a hike the next day to the summit of Picacho Peak.
No wonder your forehead height is growing. How long do you flatten it into the ground?
It's called Childs Pose you infantile Meanderthal.
5 minutes a day should do it for you.
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It's called Childs Pose you infantile Meanderthal.
5 minutes a day should do it for you.
He is lying. He is praying to Mud but is too embarrassed to admit it.
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He is lying. He is praying to Mud but is too embarrassed to admit it.
Amen!
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JC is facing north!
Praying to the crusty Master of Mud.
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clink and I were reminiscing today.
Being lowered after finishing pitch 2 of Long in the Tooth 5.8**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXUDUMrDymTGsVi7HjNmtsevDGWX68_k8DHSjxsVN010tc_NxzmIJyDys5axZVxfY3u6SKH_85dTl4g8MEC_nA4vehJGlHz6hS0neFcyXAN8JA0ZbGW8mfPMzBGiSKlEx3MBHUOqkDmExmOe_QemwNl=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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all praise the mud
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Hail mud!