MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: KlimerKurt on March 08, 2012, 10:05:22 PM
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So, last Sunday I was at the Pinns on the East side, and bored of the usual, showing a friend around who's a fairly new climber. I wanted to avoid the Disco wall. We headed straight to Monolith, and hopped on Wave Rider, 5.7R, and I agree with Brad, a very clever, and fun route. Big holds, and an angling traverse above the steep routes to the right of The Direct route. It had a nice solid feel, and finishes at the last bit of the Monolith Reg. Route. Fun route!
We chatted at the base with Gavin and ranger friends, and then I asked him which anchor off the back was for Penguin Handshake, planning a TR burn on something new and hard for me. He thought it should be the second one from the corner, and I set up and got to work. I struggled miserably with the start, especially getting past the 2nd bolt, yanked on a draw, and continued to do TR battle, trying to figure the unchalked moves on the supposed 11c three star route. I got through the middle pretty good, only to be shut down again right at the top of the steep section, creatively sport-aiding again. I had been on Foreplay the week before,love it, and thought maybe I should try something more difficult. I finished my attempt thinking "I guess 11c is way harder than I thought" and "I know I need to lose a little weight, but damn that felt way out of my reach!"
Finished up a great afternoon session at the Upper Crust on a really warm day, and then came home and looked more carefully at Brad's Book....
The 11c I was flailing on was Gorillas in the Moss 12.d! I drank a beer and went to bed feeling a bit better. ;-) Wouldn't have attempted it if I knew, but I think some major training is in order to have any chance on that thing...thin and desperate! Guess I should look at the book more carefully...Ha!
Anyone have any experience on 'Gorillas in the Moss' or 'Penguin Handshake'? I hope to go out and have a look at Penguin next time
By the way, nice reworking of the trail/POD area by Gavin's ranger friends, even a little fence seperating the gawkers on the trail from the climber/gear cluster on the rocks.
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I have done Penguin Handshake and thought it fun but challenging.
My experience on Gorillas in the Moss was some what like yours.
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Penguin Handshake broke a year or two ago. Mittens and Hoipoiloi say it is now more likely 5.12 A/B. I haven't been on it, but I would trust what those guys say. They were cursing and falling a bunch by the fourth bolt.
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been on Penguin with Tom D, thought it was hard and that was before significant holds broke, although he did break off a useful chip...
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Thanks everyone...I didn't find any chock on Gorillas, and cleared some large dead dry tree limbs blocking the start. That should have been a clue! Maybe I'll have to take a look at Penguins. Sounds harder now. My girlfriend and I just came back from 3 days of Yosemite Climbing. Sorry to brag, just stoked 8) I recommend the multi-pitch slabs of the Cookie Sheet-our 2nd time there. Hightlight this time was Smear Campaign, 5.8,5.9,5.9, 500ft of fun to a damn fine view of Reed's, Merced river up to Bridalveil Falls, and the Rostrum and Elephant. We also had a great time at Pat and Jack Pinnacle, and Dan and Jerry's Playground, Below the SE face of El Cap. Is it OK to talk about Granite on Mud and Crud? I can't help it. Get some if you can!
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I think this is a site of equal opportunity boasting. Unless of course you wanna talk about Sonora Pass and sonorapassclimbing.com
We never mention that here!
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what is granite? Never seen it @ the Pinns.
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I think this is a site of equal opportunity boasting. Unless of course you wanna talk about Sonora Pass and sonorapassclimbing.com
We never mention that here!
hippocrite :'(
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Ban him from the "other" site.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3636/3666547809_4c0dd3be9b_b.jpg)
[acerbic irony]Nothing but garbage rock up on SPH. No decent climbers have gone thru there, nope. [/acerbic irony]
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I'd bolt it!
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3636/3666547809_4c0dd3be9b_b.jpg)
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Looks like a prime candidate for top down inspection while placing bolts using hooks (with the fixed line as a safety backup of course)
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A0 with the LoveTron
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True, top down would be the best way to exploit the place.
I'd then tape key holds and spray paint the route names @ the bottom. No fixed draws I'm cheap.
Squiddo could then come along and put in bermed trails.
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Well it isn't like I mentioned sonorapassclimbing.com. That would result in a permaban.
hippocrite :'(
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With drops, roll overs and some fun whoops.
;D
Squiddo could then come along and put in bermed trails.
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Are escalators still considered A0?
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Well it isn't like I mentioned sonorapassclimbing.com. That would result in a permaban.
You did...
Unless of course you wanna talk about Sonora Pass and sonorapassclimbing.com
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nope never
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With drops, roll overs and some fun whoops.
;D
Schweet! Now we're talkin'!
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Wave Rider, now that is funny! Easiest "FA" ever. Except that as Clint pointed out, it was probably the first route ever done on the Monolith. Dx wanted to call it The Merry Crankster's Traverse, or something like that. I thought it looked like a wave...
I came -><- close to onsighting Penguin. Dang sun in my eyes, you know. Now I guess it's just a dry-tooling route...
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You MTB?
Schweet! Now we're talkin'!
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Did someone say Mtb? One of my other passions. I love some technical trail riding. I've been mtn. Biking almost as long as I've been climbing. I started both around 7th grade, & am 38 now. I try to get plenty of both on a regular basis. Other mtn. Bikers here too? :-)
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Yep, I have been riding longer than I have been climbing. Been riding almost as long as I have been walking. Ride around the bay area road and mtb, Skeggs or Henry Coe usually.
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My summer camp specializes in Mountain Biking and Rock Climbing. We're up by Downieville so we've got some good trails, and plenty of virgin rock as well.
But the two programs are mortal and bitter enemies.
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Ok- thread drift for sure, but nice to hear some other Pinns climbers enjoy the complementary fun of mountain biking. I've been wanting to check out Skegg's & Henroe Coe but always end up closer to home in the Redwoods, or off on farther away journeys to ride.
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Not really a thread drift IF we talk about the single track ride from New Idra to Hwy 25 "near" the Pinnalces entrace.
An old riding buddy had mentioned it, but I didn't get a chance to go with him.
If there's interest I can hunt him down for map info.
This might be a hard man/women's ride as you start from Paicines and come back to it on 25.
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@Factor, sure did that up. Could be fun.
@KlimberKurt, If you ever want to ride Skeggs let us know. It is very close to our place. This Saturday we plan on a Coe ride since we are taking another first timer there. He wants a long ride so this will but if you are interested we can do one with bail out points. Or do a ride at some other point in time. I hear you about getting out, there is a lot of good riding over there.
@cobbledik, We have ridden Downieville a few times. Will send you a pm if we go up there this year.
In general it would be kinda cool to do a MudnCrud MTB ride with folks from the site sometime if thre is interest.