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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: cobbledik on April 03, 2012, 10:42:00 PM

Title: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: cobbledik on April 03, 2012, 10:42:00 PM: Was on the taco stand today and saw this post,
Quote
Interesting to note that his (Beyer) FA career began in the Pinns.

I don't have my guidebooks with me to sort through the FA's. Does anyone know about Jim Beyer getting his start at the Pinns? I haven't been able to pin down (get it! PIN down!?!?!) how I feel about the popular persona of Beyer, but I do love devouring history about him.
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: mynameismud on April 04, 2012, 08:20:17 AM: You can start by looking at Casino Rock. Yes he has over a dozen FA's at the Pins. They are all interesting. Those bolts should either all be replaced or never be replaced depending on the perspective.
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: mungeclimber on April 04, 2012, 04:03:36 PM: or if they do get replaced, keep the bolts available for folks to see.
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: MUCCI on April 04, 2012, 09:59:11 PM: Beyer was never a pit boss at the casino rock...?

I did one of his routes on the Frog, and Brad gave a run at Tuff...

I would have figured he meddled in aid, so much choice stuff really.
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on April 04, 2012, 10:08:23 PM: Beyer also put up Digger and Hook and Drill way over on the right side of Balconies.
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: Brad Young on April 07, 2012, 07:51:39 AM: The five worst bolts I ever pulled and replaced at Pinns were on Beyer routes. Three on Tuff and two on Digger. One of the bolts I pulled on each route came out - with a large amount of cruddy rock attached in both cases - with one single hit on a crowbar placed under the hanger. All of these five were 1 1/2 inch long Star Dryvins. I was dismayed with some of these to see that very good rock was located nearby; on the second bolt of Digger his bolt was so bad I was (again) shocked. And yet I placed a superb, long, 3/8 inch stainless in fantastic rock about six or eight inches up and right from that placement.

The guy had balls, but I'm glad I've now led every route he established at Pinns (and thus I never have to go back on any of them!).
Title: Re: Beyer at the Pinns?
Post by: JC w KC redux on April 08, 2012, 10:08:22 AM: Quote from: bhilden on April 04, 2012, 10:08:23 PM
Beyer also put up Digger and Hook and Drill way over on the right side of Balconies.

i think i remember someone's trip report on both of these describing them as death routes - can't find the link now

this link posted by Waldo in 2008 describes several of the R's on the Upper Crust as death routes if you blow it.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Rock-Climbing-2259/2008/10/Fun-Pinnacles-Routes.htm (http://en.allexperts.com/q/Rock-Climbing-2259/2008/10/Fun-Pinnacles-Routes.htm)