MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: CruxLuv on April 06, 2012, 09:38:12 AM
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Hi gang-
I was hoping for suggested pro size's and quantity for Portent and Coyote Ugly. My partner tomorrow will be leading them for the first time - whoop!
My sissy butt will be trying Nodal Line on Upper Crust.
Thanks
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on Portent i placed a yellow(#2) camalot first and then a large nut a move or two higher up(with a long runner) but that piece was probably overkill. if you make it past the start/first 2-3 moves into the alcove you don't really need anything but it made me feel better + i need practice placing pro. i did it as 2 pitches and belayed KC good and tight from the first anchor after receiving this advice from a seasoned pro: Be super careful on Portent - leading (spot real good) and following (also needs a spot or fully loaded-fully stretched out over head belay). Rope stretch is 10-20% over 80 - 100 ft so thats up to 20 ft! Innocents and unawares/followers have broken ankles and legs here!
you can sling a knob near the top just for fun/practice.
CU says pro to 4 inches so i'd say a #4 camalot for that - maybe take a #3 too - but what do i know?
there is nothing sissy about choosing a 5.5 where the crux is before the first bolt - hope you luv it for realz...
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Thanks John and Happy Belated!
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no problem. upper crust looks cool - lots of choices. i'm still undecided. i'll eat bday cake and ponder...
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The suggestions above are good ones. You might have a long runner(s) to girth hitch a knob above the climb's last bolt. There are a couple of candidates and I forget which is my chosen one. I didn't always tie off a knob but find that it soothes the mind when finishing up.
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Waldo, are you heading in tomorrow for climbing?
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you can sling a knob near the top just for fun/practice.
waldo - i already suggested that - no worries - the one i liked is very near the top and feels good but it's pretty much over by then except for the last few exit moves...
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not sure why my pic won't post - i did the img thing in brackets - maybe it doesn't like facebook for a medium
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For Coyote Ugly, a single #3 camalot or 3.5 wild country tech friend is probably sufficient.
I think on Portent I placed a #2 or #3 camalot, but you might want to place some smaller stuff for the start .. Got to love a 5.6 route with a 5.7 start :)
Someone told me the first 15 feet don't count at Pinnacles >:D
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Someone told me the first 15 feet don't count at Pinnacles
you got that right!!! i didn't think the start of portent was hard - just committing - but i have a long reach...
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(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/564518_10150719261523886_732868885_9482165_325072106_n.jpg)
Here ya go JC
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Pardon, JC. I've got to read things more thoroughly. The picture reminds me that there's drag if you don't throw a couple of long runners in.
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Pardon, JC. I've got to read things more thoroughly. The picture reminds me that there's drag if you don't throw a couple of long runners in.
no problem - it was at the end so maybe i put you to sleep :)
i used a 2 foot runner - it wasn't much drag b/c we did it as 2 pitches - there was actually more drag coming from the bolts lower down even though i extended the runners at the 2nd set of double bolts - i clipped everything but probably should have skipped that one since there's another single pretty close to it. i'll do it a bit different next time and want to go back and try the alternate ending too.
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Here ya go JC
how'd you do dat?