MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on May 03, 2012, 03:37:49 PM
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Waldo? Gavin? Joe?
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Now you're just rubbing it in.
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It's gonna rain.
Stay home and get me corrections on the SPH second edition. Surely (Shirely?) you must have some edits and corrections?
And, while you're at it, go up to Dennis' work and hold him hostage until he comes up with two names for two routes at Midguard. Damn, how hard can it be to come up with two names in an 18 month period?
And if you won't stay home or go beat up Dennis for me, will you be around to go over it with me this weekend (we still have your chair, although Katie's been using it).
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rain at Pinnacles in May? never!
Coming up Saturday morning. I'll bring the mark ups I have and we can go thru the rest Sunday when you provide a belay on a certain reverse facing crack? (howz that for hostage taking? :) )
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Dude, yer chair is gone.
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Surely (Shirely?) you must have some edits and corrections?
he probably has edits and corrections but don't call him Shirley...
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Is today tomorrow? If so, I'm free after eleven, unless you bring Shirley. She and I don't get along.
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Hiya Bob! Good morning-
Pretty sure we're heading to the East Side - meeting at 9:30. I just texted Rob that you're avail too-
(sssshhhh...I'm playing hookey!)
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Not touching that one...
on a certain reverse facing crack?
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better not, it hasn't been redpointed yet.
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quick TR...
Supply Side Hamster to Crampster
Direct Route on Mono
TR Terranean
Wave Rider
Upper North Face Mono
Sinbad
Crack to right of Wee Little One.
Why
5 of these were new leads for me.
Wave Rider is pretty fun
Upper North Face of Mono has great rock and knobs, but is a bit heady. After clipping a piton on PP, sling a good knob at the first headwall. Then up, slightly left to keep it 5.6. Clip bolt, and finish the steepness above going directly up. Good knob climbing.
Sinbad direct start is not 5.8 any more, least not without using the tree.
Crack to right of WLO, is actually not bad. Haven't been on that in 20 years. It's cleaner than I remember, and it still has some questionable rock/blocks.
Why? is seriously jacked up. Not recommended. Looks intimidating, but it is relatively ok for someone with a long wingspan. Use a #3 or 4 camalot to protect the lean across to the first bolt. I don't clip the upper third bolt on Why, and instead traverse left clipping the last bolt on PickPocket.
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7119/7144109613_93f0230021_c.jpg)
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/7144136021_6479f1affd_c.jpg)
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Why? is seriously jacked up (understatement). Not recommended. Looks intimidating, but it is relatively ok for someone with a long wingspan (not me!).
My main motivation to clean this route, besides the obvious need to get Rob's stuff off, was that he said I couldn't talk trash about it if I didn't climb it. (although it's piece of shitness was obvious from afar) I don't think I've ever dropped so many F Bombs in my life.
Okay - enough negative...and to be fair, the tree that mucks up the beginning moves was prolly no more than a glimmer in an acorn when the route was put up.
Yesterday freaking ROCKED!! Quite possibly my favorite day so far - which I seem to say every time I'm there.
It was great to climb with Rob for the first time, especially to start out on one of his routes. I seriously considered leading it but half way up on second was very glad I didn't. It needs way more traffic to clean off the crud. I did lead Crampster which was easy and fun.
By the time we hiked back and packed up, Bob came up the trail - perfect timing!
The weather was stellar even though driving thru rain for most of the way there had me concerned. Happily the roads and sky started drying a few miles near and a little breeze kept the day from overheating.
All the routes were new to me except Sinbad and Direct. And I loved them all (save one). Most of them were interesting and challenging enough. Not just straight up a face.
Great line up that I would highly recommend. The climbing partners were icing on the cake.
Thanks fellas-
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Glad to hear folks made it out yesterday. I'm just reading the topic now, and was away from PINN yesterday. Anyone in the area this weekend?
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Up in Sonora now Gavin. Sorry.
Crux n Waldo, solid day!
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(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/534900_291216200967388_100002370323619_652817_2132854880_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/529708_291216287634046_100002370323619_652818_1284217431_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/398926_291216354300706_100002370323619_652819_1504662402_n.jpg)
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/574641_291216427634032_100002370323619_652821_1733116306_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/380621_291216520967356_100002370323619_652823_692797149_n.jpg)
top o' sinbad
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536507_291216574300684_100002370323619_652824_2135007390_n.jpg)
view of mono's upper north face - fun stuff!
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(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/380621_291216520967356_100002370323619_652823_692797149_n.jpg)
Nice!
Good to see you top out on top rope wall.
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I don't remember that bulge at the top of Sinbad...
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had a banner day last weekend collecting stars.
yesterday we rambled to the highest peak with lofty aspirations
but turned away at the sign that said fine
even though i knew it was nein
i could not convince my sweet fraulein
and so we retreated and sidestepped to pose for pretty pictures atop a classic*** before the descent...and went...
for an adventure of sorts...
we scrambled and bushwhacked through brambles and deadfalls...
scratching and clawing, sinking and slipping back, until we did spy the long awaited prize
only to realize it was long neglected and sparsley protected we heard yet another buzzer ring...
with dejected looks - we skied the rotten slope and abandoned our packs further down and off the beaten path
to skitter and boulder lightly across another long scramble - only to be denied yet again by the ringing sound
that kept us still on the ground - knowing that we'll return another day to collect those elusive stars
we'll travel light and at the bases of those routes our resolve will reunite us without the tinnitus!
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AWESOME
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Friday was a very fine day! Great pictures, too, though I ended up in too many of them. I'm by far the least photogenic of our group.
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no more shenanigans? no more tomfoolery? no more ballyhoo?
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Ask Cruxluv about her encounter with a giant yo-yo.
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Ask Cruxluv about her encounter with a giant yo-yo.
More like a wrecking ball by the time I got done with you! ;D
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We're lucky Monolith is still there. I'm not svelte, shall we say?
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are still talking about climbing? :P
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i see it's 97 in the Pinns currently with high 80's forecast for this weekend - gonna get wet...gonna sweat...i may actually have to use some chalk...
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Ask Cruxluv about her encounter with a giant yo-yo.
the Queen don't gimme no luv...
and yes Munge...I'm still talkin' 'bout climbin'
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Let them eat cake.
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touché!
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Notice, refer now to the "Pinns season is over" post.
We've got a guidebook to research, routes to climb, FAs to name.
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yes refer to the other post.
IT IS NOT CLOSED UNTIL I SAY SO
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yes refer to the other post.
IT IS NOT CLOSED UNTIL I SAY SO
I'll tell you what: you can have the say-so about Pinns as SOON AS YOU GET ME NAMES FOR THOSE TWO DAMN ROUTES AT MIDGUARD.
Until then, you do not have my permission to speak.
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SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
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SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK SPEAK
Well, OK, but that will be the single longest name in the book. And what will the other route be called?
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how 'bout, SHAKE, ROLL OVER or PLAY DEAD...
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How about: "Speak, Speak" and "Speak Easy"?
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"God is Mud" and "Mud is God"
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luv it.
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Well Brad, I'll give you a few....to use if the old man won't....
Trooper Ride to Hell
Can't Fix Stupid
Stipid Fixed?
Aguave Revenge
Oakdale Blues
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Hey, those are pretty good. Except for the first one (which has meaning for Mud) you should save those to use yourself.