MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: cobbledik on May 04, 2012, 07:42:16 AM
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In penance for my lack of posting, I pulled up a TR post that my former partner made last year.
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Pinnacles doesn't have much of a selection in terms of quality crack climbs, but Kev and I have discovered a few gems lately. I lead Swallow Crack, 5.6, a few weeks ago, and I liked that mostly because it was solid and less crumbly than normal Pinnacles. Still, that was more face climbing with pro in the crack than anything else.
First up yesterday Kevin tried out this roof and felt a little creeped out by the fixed angle nailed in upside down and plugged in some more gear along the way (both the burden and benefit of being an aid climber: seeing a piton upside down that any other climber would think was "solid" just because it's iron... but also having a quadruple rack to plug more gear). The sling on the second angle was also worn and nearing the end of its life. Kevin got to the crux and it was wet. Boo! Particularly excellent footwork I could see from my view from the ground. I wouldn't expect anything less from the man who followed my first slab lead using no hands.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KYUwdNPMCfI/TZDA9Ew8nhI/AAAAAAAAE3E/mGFeED2PvnM/s400/IMG_20110327_101201.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aKAIgxeJwms/TZDA9Ms724I/AAAAAAAAE3E/9Ib3I-s5mPQ/s400/IMG_20110327_101206.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6VoDM7pf_6Y/TZDA9Hr7uxI/AAAAAAAAE3E/K-xgxrzH0dQ/s400/IMG_20110327_102146.jpg)
After that was Ordeal, a "meh" climb...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-26Ulagr5awY/TZDBBVpSWWI/AAAAAAAAE3E/nFBwPjUwBTQ/s400/IMG_20110327_121138.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CRd4dMCxYHs/TZDBLt8L66I/AAAAAAAAE3E/GXBTXd8TVz0/s400/photo%25203.JPG)
Then we jumped on Jorge's Crack 5.9, on Discovery Wall. A short, fun and true crack climb that Kevin floated up, despite it being a biiiiiiiit heads up at parts. Liebacking and fingerlocks required.
The best part was feeling like I could reach up at any point and have a solid place for fingers/hand lock, like climbing Crescent Arch in Tuolomne. My favorite climb on the planet - something magical about it that makes you feel like you're magic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qXiThwN1HLs/TZDBPL8i3gI/AAAAAAAAE3E/5D98GAp8NpI/s400/photo%25205.JPG)
Other things of note: condors flying super low, peanut butter and honey sandwiches are our favorite, and hella boyscouts chill in Pinnacles when the weather's nice!
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Good on you! Jorgies is one of the best. Ordeal is not meh!!!! Classic pinns route. Trauma is next up.
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Agree with Squiddo. And do the continuation...that will get your attention.
Trauma is a winner. Just bury them little wires...
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Personally, I thought Ordeal was fun.
I climbed Trauma a couple of years ago. I remember resting in a body-sized slot for a looooong time trying to get myself to commit to the moves above. At that time it was def a type 2 fun climb. Very much recommended.
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Good Trauma story....
Way back when, my buddie and I climb the route to the dish above the roof. After I get to my partner, we un-tie, chuck the rope off and solo the remaining 30ft.....all as if it was nothing.
Good luck getting me to do that now days.
Be sure to do Plague as well. It's clean-up really well.
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Nice TR with Pics.
A few more.
Cleft - Not difficult and more face climbing than crack. Mostly good rock.
Lost Horizons - Good rock one funky face move.
Lie Backers Lullaby <sp> - a bit loose.
The 5.9 and 5.7 on the far right of Discovery Wall. Both have decent rock but get little traffic. Both are kind of chimneys
Wild Berry Crack - big step up. Need to feel fairly good on mid 5.10.
Racing Stripes - some what loose.
Exhibitionist - Wide gear to hand crack
Are you ok? kind of loose but not real hard
Sport Climbers Terror - actually kind of good and not as grungy as it looks. Fun.
Spanky - short kind of funky
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A friend had good things to say about Trauma .. have to check that one out in the fall.
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forgot to mention Fly Bye. A bit harder than Trauma or at least a bit more committing.
EDIT:
Brad what is that big chimney crack climb on the left of the Yaks Wall?
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Fly by is that......spooked me.
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EDIT:
Brad what is that big chimney crack climb on the left of the Yaks Wall?
Are you talking about Orion?
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Yep that is the one. How would you rate that? Very commiting? Kind of commiting?
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Very committing. But not quite as much as with the old, tiny bolts that Rupert placed. Those were scary (it has been rebolted hasn't it?).
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Do not know.