MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on August 31, 2012, 12:50:40 PM
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I don't care - i'm goin' anyway.
spent too many weekends drivng over hell and half an acre(but loved it!).
need to get me some mud n crud!
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LIKE!
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Send
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definitely got us some crud today - Alias Bandit Bench and then up Drop Zone...
starting up Drop Zone past the first bolt...up higher in the runout zone it was a toss up between mud and crud...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fM9EXqw7gba3-y4oXtV4KA5DYvsW-RPoG7NQJ12mBm3kO1zWpNu9meoDkET4LgoKMF_o4SiePkNjz6mEWLS0qmgIW89IOa49jITbLbVSG6tw7C4wGvnbTAErCxebYVSPDhAsCpGcOEJliToCrQjUD5=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Was a little warm...
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Was a little warm...
shady beneath the machete...KC was shivering when i started up the bandit bench just before 10:00...it was only low 90's when we hit the parking area around 3:00 :) nice afternoon breeze as usual and the high peaks were crystal clear...
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I'm diggin' yer groove... 8)
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no one seems to like the low angle run out section. :(
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The Ubergoober shall return this season. Don't know that I'll be sending 5.10 anytime soon (heck, 5.7 might be challenging right now), but the bad hoof is stronger and I finally have a much more flexible schedule now than I have had in the last 5 years. If folks need a belay bitch this season so I can follow and get my crimp strength and climbing head back, let me know.
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Dixie and I now live in Oakland, so we'll be out there after Tuolumne closes. She's got trad leading to do and I have a few more aid lines to cry on.
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Uber, don't wait for winter! Let's do some Conness! Cobble has it right!
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no one seems to like the low angle run out section. :(
it's fine if you don't mind your holds crumbling to dust 50 feet above the last bolt :)
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congrats.
Dixie and I now live in Oakland, so we'll be out there after Tuolumne closes. She's got trad leading to do and I have a few more aid lines to cry on.
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it's fine if you don't mind your holds crumbling to dust 50 feet above the last bolt :)
oh come on now. It's not that bad.
is it?
should I add another bolt?
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Costanoan redux today...KC got her lead on p1, p3 - i swung 2 and 4 - we did the opposite the first time around on July 4th...saw some free soloists on the Machete- watched them from Citadel's summit - 3rd class to the base of p2 Derringer and then up the final 5.1 pitch...
KC rockin' p1 Costanoan
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d1v4PxYO4xYVUNWrvrX-u0PyZ_q6YdH9BM9rMloJXmr5teIFmGsl9o9tF7jKOTFWWQisEo7PTK0GO6t4pz5KuFOGk6bHRWfr9n67Fk5cDt07uA2fU0F9iFtLQcVSK5fa8McLA2ddNfPVTfgAWd2gtQ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
free soloists on Machete's east face...one on 3rd class...one almost at top of Derringer...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dq0n14rTq0St7hrLQhzaYbRz6PRQZJeOLdT7Nj0PTFJOMrgF8DYfYmRBsUDqcEbPK8wKhMH3DsicteWVbqAXG9ny66mWgBgoQBbnKvJv-Cokn9avECSoJhKII2VUeaBi37SJ0NYew8EXxPcSKLlZpg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Über, who are you? Can you belay????
Now if y'all want an adventure the 1st pitch of Conduit has a few new key bolts.
That Jim guy would post up but the admins keep blocking him. Or something like that.
Chezzy pictures to follow...
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oh come on now. It's not that bad.
is it?
should I add another bolt?
naw...the bolts are fine...the climbing in the runout is easy...i actually didn't need the rock holds in that part...i just crimped off the lichen :)
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cool
there have been others that have not enjoyed the top because of the run out distance. I'm amenable to adding, just don't want to over do it on easy ground.
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I wanted another bolt, as did a friend I sandbagged into leading it.
I thought that Mrs mUD lead that part? You guys only gave her 1 bolt, or so the story goes???
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I thought mr. mud did the final redpoint on it. Been awhile. Yeah, we probably were out of bolts and tired of drilling by then. I really enjoyed putting those three lines in. Good times on the ledge. Putting Salad out on the lead on hooks. Cajoling Mr. Mud to go down there to help put in new lines. Lots of coffee on the drives down.
I think I originally spied those lines after I had lead Gary and Phyllis headwall one day. Was I with F4 or Salad? Either way, that first move on G&P really stymied me the first go. Scary looking crux bolt. But eventually worked out a sequence that wasn't a massive pump. Then the rest of the climbing was good quality, small diameter bolts. After coming down, I think we went back with my new Tuning forks (Theron Moses had made me). 3/8" split shaft was in there good. Took awhile. I think it was then I started thinking that if G&P was good rock, the stuff left was probably good too!
First bolt on Drop Zone...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3484/3929975180_6312338da5_b.jpg)
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Ugly pinns bolter at work...
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As it happens, I led Drop Zone on Saturday. I was mildly upset after bolt three. Gazing up at bolt five, I took it for bolt four. Folks my age should not have to concentrate for so long just to clip a bolt. Imagine my joy when I discovered that four really was hidden! The runout at the top? I kind of knew it was going on, but I was surprised by just how far it turned out to be when I reached the belay. I couldn't see my last clip below the bulge.
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Nooo don't add another bolt to Drop Zone. Sure, it has a good section of run out on choss rock that could pop out at any grab, but that is what the Pinns is all about!
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As it happens, I led Drop Zone on Saturday.
what time were you out there? i got on Bandit Bench around 10 and the Zone probably around 11:30 - didn't check. i think we were back in the parking lot around 2:30. i couldn't see #4 either and after the last bolt it was "hell and gone from Cartagena" but easy.
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The three of us got on Bandit at about 8:15 and got to the upper tier a couple of hours later, very leisurely. We then walked over to the West Face rappel, a good thing or we would have dropped a ton of rocks your way trying to rappel the route. We were at the cars by noon. It was most pleasant in the shade of Machete. I didn't work up a sweat until about halfway out. A photo or two may be on the way. I can't figure it out, but Aaron and Creedence have promised to help me. Another bolt? I'll have to think about it. It's quite dirty and a fall toward the top would go ninety feet, but the run is not unusual for Pinnacles.
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The three of us got on Bandit at about 8:15 - Aaron and Creedence.
so did Aaron and Creedence climb with you?
i can't believe we didn't hear you guys above us.
i do remember hearing something fall when we were getting ready but wasn't sure if it was a rock or a bird in the trees.
no worries - we always don our helmets when we get near the base - never know when a whistler might come down!
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Oops! I got days mixed up. My wife just reminded me that we climbed on Sunday. It would have been tough for us to drop a rock on you.
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Oops! I got days mixed up. My wife just reminded me that we climbed on Sunday. It would have been tough for us to drop a rock on you.
mystery solved!
no worries.
i have heard and seen rocks come off the wall when no one was around.
one day at Destiny Wall i think it was the wind...or just gravity.
what do you think about the pro on Alias Bandit Bench esp p1? total garbage except the one new bolt on the crux move - smc death hangers (one with a 1/4 inch bolt), one homemade POS and lots of Leepers on p2 - leader must not fall!
these are the ABB p1 beauties in order...
#2 thin smc with patina and 1/4" stud
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ei-b_9jX8Eiej7_Ppf2mZQRhR5Fr6OfrxJ2jy8P0C96X-Xiwhfcun6F9qUkevN9zb58aVqhBTiolC80Rqbl5qeqJzgH857_kIDzbhTw0TRNvTQzCGmZCZJfAZKmqsiJ9ZfUAevmjeorircdpU6SvWd=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
#3 homemade rusted POS
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dx1J8AC1EmykP2qNxkyIgC5Z0KWv0y6cuqXsSIEAN8WRX4Hso150GuCiZDurp28Wwd4P0RbQsc6qpWxec0vbXpvfKJVfsRodY_fTJ8ebAuyE0t1rd3Kni6l7NBq0XnHc3tUz5lcu2Wqdakt8wv6dna=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
and last but certainly not least - #4 full on patina
...the smc's are the thickness of a quarter - i drilled a hole in a quarter and carry it on my wrench sling to check thickness...i've started documenting all perceived worthless fixed pro...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebk6irm40S4yccB9hqDFPHFffrQVwcZGa28T5d5j_BI1aSasXAK_10rdQU3ZE2LPkOLomeUp6H7VpB-_0B0Mh0eGE3WeEJPEnZ8lPoPp65prY-IhVGJRrv9Hgd4zl2a5ozaGLkgQ-BKChmlr7GSHBt=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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JC, did you add this to the rebolting thread?
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I decided not to fool with the tree. I clipped the one at the end of the ledge and one more. Then I went up. I like having some of those old bolts and hangers around, not for protection, but for history's sake. It might make sense to leave the old ones in place (with caveats!) and draw a modern exit with one or two new bolts.
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I decided not to fool with the tree. I clipped the one at the end of the ledge and one more. Then I went up. I like having some of those old bolts and hangers around, not for protection, but for history's sake. It might make sense to leave the old ones in place (with caveats!) and draw a modern exit with one or two new bolts.
totally agree with that.
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JC, did you add this to the rebolting thread?
i didn't.
i figured it's been that way since 1972 and as an approach climb that probably sees decent traffic no one obviously has a problem with it. i'm just way more aware now.
not sure what you guys mean by the tree.
KC was questioning whether the bolt i show as #4 was for ABB or Trident. She thought i went too far over - i don't think so - esp if you look at the topo - it's a decent ways from #3 to #4. i think to get to the Trident bolt you'd actually have to duck under some branches - am i wrong?
just to confirm - i count the bolt at the crux/start as #1(it's fine) - then the smc w light patina #2 is not far/start of the grassy ledge - then the homemade rusty POS #3 as you prepare to leave the grassy ledge - and last the full on patina #4 is a decent length away but visible as you leave the ledge and traverse over and up a little.
is the bolt for Trident actually under the tree branches?
as far as i could tell i didn't traverse over any farther than i needed to and i didn't see any other bolts - unless it's easy to miss. i've only done the climb once before.
i didn't remember the moves up from #4 being so hard and neither did she - it only shows 5.6 on the topo but the moves seemed harder than that to us. maybe i was just unnerved after clipping what i perceived as crap.
i may also have selective memory of my onsight ascent - so jazzed by making some wild moves through the crux and surprised by the ease and abundance of bolts on p2 that i forgot the other parts!
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Before the tree became so healthy, I remember traversing past another bolt (now leafy) to a couple of more in an incipient chute. I'm not sure this squares with Brad's topo. I'd trust him rather than my memory, however. His drawings are by far the most accurate of any Pinnacles guide.
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So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Conduit12/i-pLZSMdd/0/XL/Jim3-XL.jpg)
Some say he's done a few routes on the Balconies....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Conduit12/i-VdVPmBx/0/L/Jim2-L.jpg)
Others were out:
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Conduit12/i-dGXLrmz/0/XL/ABB12-XL.jpg)
The master at work...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Conduit12/i-DJNhN73/0/L/Jim5-L.jpg)
The end..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Conduit12/i-5P9BCtV/0/L/HighPeaks-L.jpg)
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So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...
Dude! we met and climbed with him on SPH this past weekend!
Others were out:
That's JC leading and KC at the belay on ABB!!
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So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...
Dude! we met and climbed with him on SPH this past weekend!
Others were out:
That's JC leading and KC at the belay on ABB!!
It's all about the shirts.
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Here's a photo that includes the same three climbers that are in Factor's photos. It was taken one week later and on SPH, not at Pinns. Anyone recognize the shirts?
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8040/7975249102_7b381c6f97_c.jpg)
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OMG, don't let John bolt, even I won't be able to reach the clips!!! ;)
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OMG, don't let John bolt, even I won't be able to reach the clips!!! ;)
We made sure that these bolts could be clipped by less-than-six-foot-tall people:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8170/7968613330_9be112cf08_c.jpg)
No the real reason to not let John bolt is that he may not understand the process and the results. Here's the conversation that took place (verbatim):
BY, to JC after JC places a long, stainless 3/8" bolt in bullet granite: "Well, does that increase your confidence in properly placed bolts?"
JC: "uh, well... I guess."
(P.S. he did subsequently use said bolt - as part of a pair - for a rappel and toprope anchor.)
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JC: "uh, well... I guess."
he evidently has the mental capacity of a small soap dish!
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BY, to JC after JC places a long, stainless 3/8" bolt in bullet granite: "Well, does that increase your confidence in properly placed bolts?"
JC: "uh, well... I guess."
P.S. he did subsequently use said bolt
in my defense:
1) the professor in me thought it might be a trick question?
2) i answered as if i was trying to represent the average American?
3) i am so conditioned by Pinnacles that i don't fully trust any bolt?
4) i had a mini stroke from increased blood flow brought on by the endorphin rush of my first trad lead on granite?
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1) the professor in me thought it might be a trick question?
2) i answered as if i was trying to represent the average American?
3) i am so conditioned by Pinnacles that i don't fully trust any bolt?
4) i had a mini stroke from increased blood flow brought on by the endorphin rush of my first trad lead on granite?
too good, so I'm writing these down for future use.
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Hoses this is a pinnacles thread.
More pictures
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request granted Factor. KC and I did a redux day at the Pinns today. we got recognized by two different parties - it's all about the shirts!!! shout out to Trevor and Ryan - and a compadre from SLO that we'd talked to on several previous occasions - maybe they'll post up too...
so today was all about having some fun and gettin' in some pitches before KC leaves for a bidness trip back East coupled with a girlie gathering in the New River Gorge for some heinous sandstone climbing next weekend...
we decided to laze in the shade and warmed up on Corona followed by a romp on Dos Equis...i'd only led XX once before and forgot how much fun it is!
working the final crux moves above the last bolt...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eLmXILBp1f0ib8yxyFqfL658oWawZIJEeKf-E4aGKK6bcAso4zQXKO1M8M29sjdYuDAYALk9q20Wcve-PqAx5b8738gHKez5BMjhfuYUSlpFTfRbMtS6HwbUxhA75uD6zjDmZHXtmuXZYuiFgGLv09=w741-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC following XX and showing some cut through the crux
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dj1hV6tvL0NcpVTWZfvAzp0pYEP8GV8TJ8sHgQFw7u3ZET5dWkU81M6WYCBfu_khgr5RaDimm2CwswXig5-UKdAwrwuI4rBjMjojLIVqWvTRuso_SqkXvedkcowHotQh3R5ci2LqWpzWgMSxxz8eKY=w623-h625-no?authuser=0)
the sun crested the Machete just as i touched back down and we decided to go cruise Chockstone - it was there we met an old aquaintance from SLO with a couple newbies Walking the Plank. KC wanted to get her lead on, so she jumped on the Regular Route...
check out those lats!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fUt0vfJLns_ygNxHAAiUX1ag1kwbiZAVfJdUcWUV1VSmA5Oyb_H97NzOgtW5JszpgaSu0vu97yjDX6mxzucgnAHV9pM7rLedT3wuFOJgi1hm5z0hHD3BEpYgFiGAzONtGXj3e7smSEnEWho0yHRNiv=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
we ran a lap on Big Bad West on the way out - KC led it, dropped the rope when she was done and i followed free solo to clean and wrap it up...sweet as usual...
it was only 106 in the parking lot when we headed out around 2:30
just as a heads up - the West side ranger has asked if we'd all start signing the log on the back of the sign by the restroom...
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Good meeting JC and KC and Arron and Creedence yesterday!
Hot hot day on the west side. I took my buddy up Costanoan and he loved it.
If anyone ever needs a partner, let me know!
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I would think that more would sign the climber's log if it wasn't hidden from site on the other side of the infographic. Even putting a sign above the infographic the has a down arrow that says "Climbers sign in back here" would help.
Otherwise, I can't see how anyone is supposed to know about it without randomly coming across it on accident?
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I would think that more would sign the climber's log if it wasn't hidden from site on the other side of the infographic. Even putting a sign above the infographic the has a down arrow that says "Climbers sign in back here" would help.
Otherwise, I can't see how anyone is supposed to know about it without randomly coming across it on accident?
good point. i'll mention that suggestion to her next time we see her.
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hey jc and kc! it was good to talk to you again by the chockstone! i ended up taking one buddy up toogs alligator, what an adventure! scary bolts though. we did rat race on tourist trap this morning, what a wild ride! grab your cams and do it next time you're out, it's well, well worth it!
you've got me all excited on coastanoan, too. that sounds like a lot of fun!
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hey jc and kc! it was good to talk to you again by the chockstone! i ended up taking one buddy up toogs alligator, what an adventure! scary bolts though. we did rat race on tourist trap this morning, what a wild ride! grab your cams and do it next time you're out, it's well, well worth it!
you've got me all excited on coastanoan, too. that sounds like a lot of fun!
Right on! Nice job on the Alligator - we'll have to get back over there and try that one - was there no PO hazard?
Did you finish on the Terror?- the answer to that must be yes unless you guys did the Direct.
Well it sounds like all the Toog's bolts are garbage then - except those up top on the 5.9 Gallery Direct Finish - they're modern - nice and shiny.
Yes, I've had my eye on Rat Race for quite some time - it reminds me of the 1st climb I ever tried back in KY at the Red. Now that I am getting some all trad leads under my belt, I am sure we'll give it a run this season. There are several other routes on that buttress that I want to try as well.
Don't forget about Ordeal - SWEET! We talked to the guys that had been up on Costanoan on our way out - they baked! If you do it soon - jump on it early so the sun isn't directly in your face on p1 and then just enjoy the roast!
1st climb I ever tried at the Red River Gorge KY - Vector Trouble 5.10a**
This is one of my old climbing buddies - Gerrell Goodpastor - every time I look at Rat Race it reminds me of this...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dZffVVB-ai4oZBgdz2gOyZR776zjW6oKlU69cKIZUPYNZpAiQyKwlWCpxoFxFOpoMaXdmbxV1gOneCzLKua1ok9ioRa2969qwUtS-eZM5VDTYvP-L6JpSmNlQcIh0OrbYbYfaOTzQP1B3u9Wb3Cilq=w437-h625-no?authuser=0)
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yeah, we did terror to finish the route. that slung tree was probably the most bomber piece the entire climb! strange to hand jam between tree and rock, though!
rat race DOES look just like that route! i found great gear on it, too. lots of nuts, cams under the roof. was a bit warm when we did it, which was probably why i was sweating so badly afterwards...ahem...
also checked out ordeal in the book. looks like fun! next time i'm out there for sure!
i gotta climb in kentucky sometime, i hear you get lucky in kentucky!
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yeah, we did terror to finish the route. that slung tree was probably the most bomber piece the entire climb! strange to hand jam between tree and rock, though!
rat race DOES look just like that route! i found great gear on it, too. lots of nuts, cams under the roof. was a bit warm when we did it, which was probably why i was sweating so badly afterwards...ahem...
also checked out ordeal in the book. looks like fun! next time i'm out there for sure!
i gotta climb in kentucky sometime, i hear you get lucky in kentucky!
no doubt about the pro on Toog's!
gotta go hit the "race" and a few others over there on a Friday soon.
i had my share of good and bad luck in Kentuck...
the Red has some really nice routes - if you plan a trip back there and want some recs let me know - check out latest issue of Climbing! the New and Seneca Rocks in W VA are super sweet too...too bad the weather back there is so finnicky - right now is typically their best couple of months...
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Aaron and I had fun yesterday on Elephant Rock, thrashed ourselves (we both got worked) trying to pull the crux on Sombrero - 5.8 my arse! and then we went around the Flumes backside and I led Rumbling Rampart and Aaron tried and took a spanking on Once Around the Backside - looks like we have two West side test pieces to work on now!
Aaron on top after a solid lead up Elephant Rock's Regular Route - nice job brudda! - I was astounded when I looked at the FA and saw it was 1940!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ejI7NEt7-7XA1tMYwDL6FHog2vR5IRwZozfUiQ3cXsFeou2r7DrpHZug7KucUIruc69OgP4UyX-0Az70o0ZfrOLApoNn-nkZZGnSx97ydmmtI-oMvmpdbNTeimMc32EMsyohKh0Zho0jvhOIfh3ygp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)