MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Aaron McDonald on October 02, 2012, 09:20:07 AM
-
I keep hearing that Pinnacles rock climbing has been officially closed for the summer, and am not really sure when the season actually begins. I must say it has been a little lonely on the West Side this summer. Do the Mud 'n Cruder's usually kick off the season with Rock Pile Weekend?
-
Rock Pile is in like April, no? That's when the season is over.
Season starts when the snow prevents access to the high country/good weather in the 4-6k foot level.
November perhaps.
Come up to SPH.
Just say no to swelter.
-
I must say it has been a little lonely on the West Side this summer.
i dig it lonely - we can go "kick off" some rocks this weekend on some obscure route :)
KC and I are pullin' plastic tonight - the gym should be nice and cool - HA!
-
Afraid to sweat, maybe? ;) Or sweat standing still, anyway.
-
nice and cool - HA!
So NOT!
But this little glass of chard is chill.
-
So NOT!
But this little glass of chard is chill.
the gym was actually quite nice. temp outside was cool when i got there before 5 and there was a nice cool breeze blowing in the front and side doors - gotta love the Cruz...
-
Here at 4,300 feet we've got all the windows open; outside temps are perfect.
Just finished working on the book with Steve. Now some cold Sake and to bed.
-
So nice inside all day. I only had to go out 1 once.
This is the perfect Pinns weather.
Sake? No Bud Lite Lime? Perfect for weather like this.
-
Sake? No Bud Lite Lime? Perfect for weather like this.
Zactly!
btw, you climbing any time soon?
-
Yes!
After this weekend I free up.
Lets schedule something.
-
Here at 4,300 feet we've got all the windows open; outside temps are perfect.
Just finished working on the book with Steve. Now some cold Sake and to bed.
bed at 9:37? Did I read that right? ;D
-
Yes!
After this weekend I free up.
Lets schedule something.
riiiight F4- so you keep saying.
-
The Coastal breeze came with sundown. Was real nice.
-
what can I say...I'm busy until earnings.
-
To the topic question: I keep climbing, and the weather is finally cooling at the Pinns. About 85 degrees yesterday, and down to the high 70s by the beginning of next week. Definitely good climbing conditions right now!
-
I will be more blunt. At the last Rock Pile, F4 and others mentioned something about doing another weekend in addition to the April weekend.... Anyone interested in the first annual Pile On The Rocks weekend?
-
After it rains and snows at mtnyoung's, I'm more inclined to hit Pinneys.
when you thinking?
-
After it rains and snows at mtnyoung's, I'm more inclined to hit Pinneys.
Oh, I forgot to tell you, it's raining there now. SPH season is over. Move on to Pinns. ;D ;D
-
I'll be up in two weeks to make sure. ;)
-
in addition to the April weekend.... Anyone interested in the first annual Pile On The Rocks weekend?
Hell yeah.
There are plenty of group sites available for the weekend of the 27th.
Just sayin'. ;)
-
Possibly, although not sure if I can make it. Starting to get behind at work.
-
Sweet I'd go
-
C'mon McDonald...I'm trying to help you lay the groundwork...
-
Okay - since I'm a pushy broad with control freak tendencies, I just booked site 124. (easier hike to the W/C)
Max 20 bods and 5 cars. Oct 26-28th
Roll Call!
-
Okay - since I'm a pushy broad with control freak tendencies, I just booked site 124. (easier hike to the W/C)
Max 20 bods and 5 cars. Oct 26-28th
Roll Call!
You say "pushy broad" like it's a bad thing?
We can't make it. I'm likely to go to this new "Oakdale Climbing Festival" one day that weekend, since I know many of the people who will be attending, and it is close to home. Here's a link:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1902674/Announcing-The-Oakdale-Climbers-Festival-10-26-10-28-2012 (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1902674/Announcing-The-Oakdale-Climbers-Festival-10-26-10-28-2012)
And, I've been desperately looking for a free weekend for me and the "T" girl to go to the east side (the Sierra Nevada east side, not THE East Side) to explore Mono Lake and Bodie, just dad and daughter. So that is likely to take up one of the first two weekends on November.
-
That looks awesome!
-
That looks awesome!
Maybe. The activities and people look fun, but going to Oakdale on a Saturday, not so much. But I'll likely go on the Saturday. Do you coastal people have any interest in bumping a Pinns weekend to later and coming up to the festival on Saturday and then climbing up here on the next day/Sunday?
-
No desire to go to Oakdale on a Saturday night. I have standards.
-
No desire to go to Oakdale on a Saturday night. I have standards.
Amen, brother. Hell, the same type of person that would go to Oakdale on a Saturday night might go to even more objectionable places too. Like, for example, even ... to La Honda.
-
I am in! Apathy doesn't rule the day on Mud 'n Crud! Thank you CruxLuv!
-
No desire to go to Oakdale on a Saturday night. I have standards.
But not liking Oakdale on a Friday night is, well un-american.
It's the best of the west!
Crux, that works. We just will only make it the night of the 27th.
The little man prefers #123 due to the dirt slide, but he'll get over it.
-
Not when there's a bossy chick in the mix, Aaron. >:D
Yay! So far our headcount is at 6 or 7.
Sorry Brad. If you could cut the drive time in half and double the climbing days, I'd be in.
We'll miss you but let's do this again sooner than later. You pick the next date.
-
Crux, that works. We just will only make it the night of the 27th.
The little man prefers #123 due to the dirt slide, but he'll get over it.
Right on! Now we're at 8 or 8.5.
I'll see if I can get easement rights for him over at 123. ;)
-
Amen, brother. Hell, the same type of person that would go to Oakdale on a Saturday night might go to even more objectionable places too. Like, for example, even ... to La Honda.
La Honda is a step up from Oakdale. Perhaps not much but hey, a guy has to have standards. There are good trails to poach around here.
-
Sorry Brad. If you could cut the drive time in half and double the climbing days, I'd be in.
No can do. That would take a miracle, and miracles are Vicki's department.
-
No desire to go to Oakdale on a Saturday night. I have standards.
Amen bruther
-
and miracles are Vicki's department.
As evidenced by your sweet girls.
-
Mungie??
-
Mungie??
You know you want it...
I promise to bring equal portions of crappy beer and kick ass beer. Take yer pick. Not naming names.
-
You know you want it...
I promise to bring equal portions of crappy beer and kick ass beer. Take yer pick. Not naming names.
In all seriousness, I can't for the life of me, understand why they went with Oakdale.
I really have no interest in being in the Central Valley, except to get to the hills.
-
Munge...pay attention!
Selection of beer will appear at Pinns Oct 26-28th.
THAT'S what you want.
-
diabolical
hrm, got granite i have to finish if weather permits, so BY can finish the topo.
-
diabolical
hrm, got granite i have to finish if weather permits, so BY can finish the topo.
maybe if you hadn't let yourself be seduced by the Devil Rock you'd be done! :)
-
good name for a route on the devil rock
Don't Bet The Devil Your Head
-
Oh, I forgot to tell you, it's raining there now. SPH season is over. Move on to Pinns. ;D ;D
Sonora Pass is closed right now at Kennedy Meadows. Time to give it up Rob, and focus on Pinns.
-
I got a week in WA. Plenty of time for it to melt out.
-
I got a week in WA. Plenty of time for it to melt out.
Memo to self: don't play poker with Munge. He's way too cool a cucumber.
Yeah, 'sposed to be in the low 80s in Twain Harte by Sunday.
-
noyce!
-
I got a week in WA. Plenty of time for it to melt out.
Ya picking up a copy of WIN8???
Mr Mud will need it.
-
I promised a TR so here it is:
We spent Day one of the unofficial Autumn Rockpile on the Unmentionable, Pipsqueak and the Carousel.
I led the Un and then everyone else followed. Aaron trailed a rope so he could TR the 5.9 (Erectile Dysfunction). KC and I didn't watch or climb it since I would rather go back and onsight it another day. I was a bit disappointed when I looked up the FA later and saw that it was bolted on rappel - oh well...nefarious methods didn't keep us from enjoying Costanoan, so I guess you just have to let some stuff slide. One of my West Valley students (Chris) came out to join us for the day and he did his first lead on the Un! Scared the crap out of me and Aaron when he slipped a little just before making the last move up to clip the bolt. I was belaying and we were both watching and coaching him closely. Aaron and I talked later and decided maybe that wasn't the wisest choice for a first lead!
It was Pipsqueak next, where Aaron onsighted Rightfoot while KC led the Reg Rte with me belaying her. She and I'd been up there once before, but it was a long time ago, so it was still like an onsight lead for her. I didn't watch Aaron and he promised not to tell me anything - so I could get that one onsight too. Almost everyone (including Chris!) led the Reg Rte. It was good to see Crux get her lead back on after such a long hiatus. I onsighted what I thought was Little Pipper and then onsighted Rightfoot. You should have seen me stem out before that first bolt - whew!
We hiked down and did a couple of the toprope problems on the Carousel after Pipsqueak. I had a pointy stick/branch do a venipuncture on my left arm on the way down from Pipsqueak - bizarre! It looked like a bad stick at the phlebotomist.
I managed to clean the 5.10b on the Carousel. KC couldn't quite figure out how to get to the first pocket - she gave it a helluva try though!
We all had a fun night camping even though no fires were allowed.
I tried to get them to go for a moonlight hike to the West side via Old Pinnacles but couldn't get everyone onboard.
Sunday - Crux and hubby split and Aaron, KC and I headed for Marmot. Aaron spearheaded the approach and did a great job finding the way when it got a bit tricky after turning left above the slabs. We got up there and explored around a bit before starting up Marauder 5.7*. I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. We did Brad's Dead on the Shoulder 5.8* route next - again - I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. Those were both really cool routes. We prowled around a bit - Aaron wanted to scope out the Regular Route and we also found Furry Marmot Substitute while we were back there. We ended up coming back out and I led Marmot with a Hand Grenade 5.8*. I'd had my eye on it in the book but was a bit intimidated when we first got up there - especially since the bolts were so widely spaced. I just about popped off the crux move and then ran it out to bolt two, where I stepped up to clip and then stepped back down for a short rest. I think I veered right a bit sooner than what the topo shows - after a big rectangular block. I wanted to try the last part of the water chute, but it was a bit overhanging, devoid of the nice chunky hand holds found elsewhere on the line and I was already uncomfortably high above bolt 2. I ran it out to the ledgy area below the final headwall and started looking for bolt 3. I looked everywhere and could not find it! I remembered the topo showing the path go left to the bolt and around the end to go up. I slung a small knob below what I perceived as a more sensible and direct line to the top but I was determined to look for that bolt some more and wanted to honor the original FA path. I traversed left over thick moss with crusty scaly rock above. No bolt. As I called down for slack so I could move around and gain the summit, I remember thinking - "No one would put a bolt here - the climbing is too easy!" I had another surprise at the summit. We could see the anchor slings from the other climbs, but we didn't know one of the bolts was a joke! It looks like 3/16" hardware store junk with an aluminum spoon hanger! Aaron and KC both took the "Direct Finish" - which I'd like to submit as an alternate finish to the route. I'd also like to add a bolt somewhere in the vicinity of the small sling knob. Aaron and KC both looked for the 3rd bolt on the way up - to no avail. We had an awesome day and a great weekend!!!
here's my modified topo and Direct Finish proposal
i put a ? by the 60 feet since we were just shy of the middle mark when i summited - i didn't measure how much rope was left when we finished the rappel - oops...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3euw2odAjrwo0YqX-Y5Dv8-XEY9DwSw0y2RT7ch3nW38V0A3O5XlbKLaV1zsvvaoS6acpGwYPr4-RLBC1N7quKXhtFuzGAqwx1K0MPfFcfRBEWcCHCDOajSL0NuJj77q0TSFQ9BRdcVj9w0HXKtxEAX=w459-h543-no?authuser=0)
and the guidebook photo
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djfljSh_VvR9Tn0GvQeIMPSbV_lh2ip88yqd3vKSx7BlLRMHi-scfcwo87iFb9jJvki8tEZ5XTy-VyacXxupLGDa97vHH2DOsmzebw4f5W1SH4h0KUsB2dF2ztBTAXYNgURRvvcECcDd2IqtqexrnM=w880-h537-no?authuser=0)
and the hideous anchor bolt and hanger (the other bolt looks okay except not stainless) - and I guess this should go on the rebolting thread too!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4389/36933526550_c99c4c9680_z.jpg)
JC with the 3 star salute after leading the Unmentionable
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d6VwzchkLOecPTM34HYnNik1RySRlJNUnvTKrRCnnOvgIWVISUikqUWHRkFY0fMiX3OeDuaXGhjBLeH1ubH0zM0tQ2kRQQedXYoRVtSLKzcQR5r_KURseqT3DeQZ7TzqBHfzgFZQY7D0m1U7DmX9WN=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Aaron leading Marauder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e1wWySxc8D9orXXUkRqPOgWCeXIg9WfKdogbPoF5dxbuGnpV86jODg4hEE4yCgn7XqzGTrh12U0C4FgjiVo88A4nxxKnD0LsFAOYG5IMcr7EiN1AG52Dgo4tl6EeuzMb6A2jB9lzSZjqVZJiSDhV69=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC following Marauder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cgfhTphCQlgF5ZO0bwP2F2AZ7wa3Okxd1No_4dPJRwREJxQpRXUbpTB4RAI_EEBkNSMvsVjgaNS03YcQZJ0ZO7WGfUbKDURyNetboNEfo9o680BU3RCzv55PZm3QANLWAd5jw2kTvVRuxH-7ZSpw96=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC entering some serious runout on Marmot with a Hand Grenade
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fPwv0M5oqsn82VytkB3itNeL8OmzLkPJz9ZF5SXGDy7XBsB0ypD51XCbXwuXHDBQHm18O3Ne99MC0TE2P8KMj8aSWCFgAJ2BeEje9676OFuiG4DC9tFmtLf5SHW_nJ1_gfnt0ztwVk959mociV1zxs=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)