MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Atomizer on November 01, 2012, 09:24:39 PM
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Anyone done this? If so what level of mindset and physicality do I need to bring to the table?
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i look at that wall and cringe...
i know Brad made some comments on here a while back about Herchel Berchel having the worst quality rock in the monument and thinking he was going to die - but that probably has no bearing on the RW line.
RW looks like a cool climb on the topo other than the 5.11 sections :)
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Save Herschel Berschel. Let it be the last climb you're going to do at Pinnacles.
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The 11a route....(I still need to upload my picture)..
Bring a free mind for the regular route....Imagine Rupert running it out....That and a bolt kit since you'll be up there. If you don't mind???
It's a sweet route.
The 1st pitch is 5.9, right at the belay. It was in the sun and just felt odd. At lest Clint had replaced the bolt for the crux.
The 2nd 5.11. I had a devil of a time getting the moves and really didn't feel like I freed it. Everyone says the moves pull you to the right of the bolts....but I kept getting suckered to following the bolts. Ugh! (I would love to see every-other bolt replaced, but some thought will need to be put into the project as the current bolts will need to be snapped off).
The 3rd, amazing, use small cams/ nuts. The belay is on top of a huge chalkstone. One of the belay bolts could be replaced. That will help future efforts to rebolt the 2nd.
3rd, akward...but fun.
I'll try to get some pictures up tonight.
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F4, Thanks for the info. I would love to see some pics. I'm starting to train for the Westside mega linkup. Sounds like I need to bring a whole rack of screamers and stretchy rope for this one.
I need a re-bolting clinic. Any takers for tomorrow at The Pinns? I'd lead this classic!!!
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My guidebook is MIA at the moment, any chance someone would email me the topo for Resurrection wall?
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I've received the topo. Thank you! I will leave you anonymous for Brad's sake.
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Save Herschel Berschel. Let it be the last climb you're going to do at Pinnacles.
or, you could skip it entirely and live a fulfilled life of quality climbing at Pinns without it.
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Le Petite Mort coveted second lead ascent awaits!
It's an impertinent little climb. watch for the loose mud at the top.
The muds have pics on their smugmug if they can post.
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I've received the topo. Thank you! I will leave you anonymous for Brad's sake.
Why leave them anonymous? I would have got it to you myself but I've been wrapped up too much at work. Guidebook information is for the benefit of climbers; if you want to make photocopies or faxes or the like, have at it. You're welcome to any information I've got, or that I've put out there in any form and at any time.
And I'll gladly do some rebolting of that route with you if we can find time to do it. I'm very good at replacing and carefully patching, and we could do several bolts on that route in a day, or more than that in two days. Do you have any time during the week of November 12 to 16?
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Guidebook information is for the benefit of climbers; if you want to make photocopies or faxes or the like, have at it. You're welcome to any information I've got, or that I've put out there in any form and at any time.
Except wholesale copying of the book into an electronic medium and redistributing electronically, yes?
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Can't do that week Brad. I have all next week free, but than I will be gone for three weeks or so in Zion, The Creek, and Cochise!!! So stoked. Let get some West-side re-bolting done in December and early January. I was just laid off so I have tons of time now and my arms are stronger than I can remember plus my breasts are getting much bigger too....
I am thinking of heading out tomorrow with John Stein, and doing this thing to analyze what should be replaced. I might replace a bolt on the anchor as suggested but I don't have a tuning fork. I'm in SJ today, anyone in the area have one I could borrow today and use tomorrow?
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Except wholesale copying of the book into an electronic medium and redistributing electronically, yes?
That's an interesting question. As you know, I spent just over $38,000.00 to self publish the book and to thereby make sure it stays out of the hands of for-profit corporations. That's 38,000.00 that I spent out of pocket. By way of sales of the book to date, I've recovered enough that I'm only out of pocket about $12,000.00 now.
I think I deserve a reasonable chance to recover that money, which I feel I spent for the good of the climbing community. I think that wholesale conversion of the book into electronic format and distribution in that form would eliminate that chance and that it would therefore be unfair.
So, yeah, I guess you've made a good point, and that my comment above does have restrictions. Act within reason.
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Can't do that week Brad. I have all next week free, but than I will be gone for three weeks or so in Zion, The Creek, and Cochise!!! So stoked. Let get some West-side re-bolting done in December and early January. I was just laid off so I have tons of time now and my arms are stronger than I can remember plus my breasts are getting much bigger too....
I am thinking of heading out tomorrow with John Stein, and doing this thing to analyze what should be replaced. I might replace a bolt on the anchor as suggested but I don't have a tuning fork. I'm in SJ today, anyone in the area have one I could borrow today and use tomorrow?
I might be over there Tuesday and Wednesday of next week (if the passes across the Sierra are closed), and I might be able to get over there Thursday for the day even if the passes are open. Could you work a day in next week? (That wall is frigid by December).
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Brad, You name the day(s) and I'm in. I need to work just one day in SJ.
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Brad, You name the day(s) and I'm in. I need to work just one day in SJ.
Nice. Are you OK with short notice? Could you PM me a phone number and/or email?
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That's fine by me, I will keep my plans vague and open for mid-week. Check your mlode address for my info. Let me know if it didn't get though.
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Okay, okay, I can't stand it...
It was something like 114 degrees that day. We were pretty worked as the lower section was in the sun. I was done after the 2nd...
Here you go:
1st Pitch- LandShark
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Resurrection-Wall09/i-KLgMvmn/0/M/DSCF4699-M.jpg)
2nd Pitch off the belay..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Resurrection-Wall09/i-ChmKqkz/0/M/DSCF4703-M.jpg)
2nd pitch, farther out...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Resurrection-Wall09/i-dTbmTZ3/0/M/DSCF4706-M.jpg)
4th Pitch going into the akward section...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Resurrection-Wall09/i-PtTVrCt/0/M/DSCF4713-M.jpg)
4th Pitch belay anchors (you don't see them from below!)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Resurrection-Wall09/i-QQRcMFx/0/M/DSCF4709-M.jpg)
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Atom, I have two tuning forks with keeper cables you're more than welcome to use. They are at the house, so you would have to swing by this evening while I'm packing for 108.
email me at my sph address or pm me to square up on the time this evening if North SJ (880 and Montague Expressway generally) isn't too far for you with traffic and all that.
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Le Petite Mort coveted second lead ascent awaits!
It's an impertinent little climb. watch for the loose mud at the top.
The muds have pics on their smugmug if they can post.
I thought I got the second ascent?
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Resurection is really good, a must do.
HB is fun, do not save it for last the are others that can wait
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That looks amazing! I'm getting psyched.
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Herschel Berschel is that 854 on this topo?
And Resurrection Wall is 857... Right?
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Herschel Berschel is that 854 on this topo?
And Resurrection Wall is 857... Right?
correct on HB 854
Resurrection Wall is 855 5.11a**
Reincarnation Variation 5.10a* is 856
857 is the Great Spectacular 5.12d A0* - book says that has never been freed despite numerous attempts
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I've been contemplating trying out 857... the earlier post was a joke.
But I might have to use some glue-ons.
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I thought I got the second ascent?
you followed on TR. I don't remember you leading it. mudworm lead it. Did you lead it too? Memory could be faulty on my end.
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you followed on TR. I don't remember you leading it. mudworm lead it. Did you lead it too? Memory could be faulty on my end.
I lead it after mudworm. The top out is spooky.
someone needs to lead 857. heard that last pitch is really good and that the first pitch is better than is looks.
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I'm going to check it out, but on Sunday now.
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sweet, look forward to hearing about this. Take pics
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I climbed 856 with Jack. He wanted to see what Higgins felt like climbing the second pitch free. Getting to the belay atop the block was one of my more exciting passages at Pinnacles. Jack gave it the college try. He tried climbing pitch two three times. He'd get to the last bit of the overhang and run out of gas. I'd lower him all the way back down. He'd rest until he could give it another go. Try number three was his best, but he came on just short of the 5.8 section.
Herchel Berchel? Only if you want to die young. I once (1987?) went sixty feet up the first pitch and got nothing in that would hold close to body weight. My best piece was likely slung moss. I'm with Brad. It's last on my list.
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Only if you want to die young.
If you change the capitalization and the punctuation, I've been real close on that very route: "Only if you want to die, Young."
And, the funny thing is, to make sure I'd "done" the route, I've climbed it twice; I've led and followed each pitch clean. Yuck.
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You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din
er . . . Gunga Young
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You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din
er . . . Gunga Young
You know, that brought to mind the start of his other greatest poem - which, if anything, is even more applicable to Pinnacles:
"Oh, East is East and West is West, and never the twain shall meet,
Till Earth and Sky stand presently at God's great Judgment Seat..."
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Kipling forgot the High Peaks!
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(http://coursesite.uhcl.edu/HSH/Whitec/ximages/film/IndiaColo/GungaDinJaffe.jpg)
Gunga Young, was this the expression on your face during the first or the second assent?
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I wasn't that happy either time.
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I talked to Greg Barnes, we've got he bolts we need to work on this thing. I still plan on investigating tomorrow. Will report back here when I have time. Going look at the one to the right too. I've been really curious about that one.
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It went well with no falls. I may have removed more loose lichen on this route than any other route I've ever done. But it was super fun and was a really great route. Plus I succesfully introduced 16 year old John Bolte to runout pinnacles climbing, may have another Mud Master in the making. Pictures will follow in the next few days.
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How'd the bolts look?
More Mud Masters are always welcome (after his homework is done).
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The bolts were quite thrilling. There is a pretty good layer of rust and spinners. 20-25 bolts should be replaced. There is a mix of 1/4", 3/8" stud or split shaft, and a good amount of Star Drives. F4's report form before was right on. 8-9 to replace on pitch 1, 6 to 8 on pitch two if every other or third is replaced on the ladder. Two on pitch three, and 4 on pitch 4. Plus 1-2 at each anchor and possibly a new anchor at the top. That's my vision, but that is up for debate.
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We replaced a couple on the ladder a few years back. Did those look ok?
did you get a chance to look at the route to the right?
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As always what Clint and Mr Mud do is good (who can complain w 1 or 2 new bolts). I was happy to clip new bolts at the start of the 2nd pitch.
What did you think if clipping the bolts on the 2nd. Jim Mc said he free climbed to the right of the bolts and reached over. I tried, but was suckered back over.
And for accessing from the top...anchors would be needed, but since the "top out" is over to the climber left...they'd be useless after the clean up work....just a thought.
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Great pics on FB, Adam - whew!
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I just stopped by Greg Barnes place. The ASCA has supplied all the accessories that are needed to make this thing happen. I now have a combination of 3/8" and some shorter 1/2" powers bolts. Also a handful of Glue ins for The Heat Seeker.
The two new bolts were a welcome sight at those two challenging sections. But obviously that was just a start. They were in good shape. Any clue how long those bolts are?
I will cross post the photos latter today. Along with Mike Bolte's shots from the other side of the valley with his 500mm lense
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I thought Mr. Jim Mc had replaced the crux bolts on Heat Seeking. But that might have been 2+ yrs ago.
If stainless, 3.5?
Maybe he'll post up...
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Some of the bolts were replaced on Heat Seeker
Jim sent me this:
The bolts are a mixture of old and older carbon steel with exception of the two stainless steel belay / rappel bolts placed by Tom Davis a few years back...
There are 3 original stud bolts remaining (1,3, 5) on heat seeker.
Bolt 2 is a 1/4" button head - you should be able to pull and use the same hole drilled to the larger size.
Bolt 4 was originally a 1/4" button head with fixed pin just below. Paul Gagner and partner a few years later placed a botched rawl stud a couple of inches to the left. The then placed another a couple more inches to the left and scammed my pin. In the mid 90s I pulled the 1/4" and replaced with a 5-piece carbon steel. I also pulled the Paul bolt and that hole would be good to put the replacement in. The botched one is too deep to use and I was unable to get any purchase to extract.
My brother replaced the 6th bolt (also previously a 1/4" button head) with a 5 piece carbon steel using the same hole. This placement is in an embedded cobble. Recommended putting replacement in rock nearby and try to avoid any placements in cobbles.
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They were in good shape. Any clue how long those bolts are?
3" I do not think they are stainless but they do not get a lot of water so they should be ok for a while.
Hey, while over on Heat Seeker maybe put a glue in on the 3rd(?) bolt of Future Shock. the current bolt is in all the way but wiggles just a bit
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The Future Shock bolt is on the list. But I need a glue-in bolt mentor first. Thornburg is supposed to do it.
The Great Spectacular looked pretty wild, but I was little too spent mentally after my first time up the Resurrection Wall. I need someone strong like Mittens to put the draws up for me.
As for the Resurrection Rebolt I was think we would put in a new anchor at the top of the route, which would allow for rapping down to the variation anchors and then from there to the ground if they reach. I think it would reach with two 60M ropes. The walk off isn't very pleasant. I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.
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The Future Shock bolt is on the list. But I need a glue-in bolt mentor first. Thornburg is supposed to do it.
The Great Spectacular looked pretty wild, but I was little too spent mentally after my first time up the Resurrection Wall. I need someone strong like Mittens to put the draws up for me.
As for the Resurrection Rebolt I was think we would put in a new anchor at the top of the route, which would allow for rapping down to the variation anchors and then from there to the ground if they reach. I think it would reach with two 60M ropes. The walk off isn't very pleasant. I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.
many many kudos for all the rebolting. Glue ins are pretty simple the bulk of the work is in drilling that friggin hole.
Get mittens up there dang it.
Hey man no jumping my lines! :)
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I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.
Ban him. I spotted it 1st, after Mungie did or was it Strum???
Yah, glue ins are sweet, but they take a huge arse hole.
Damn that Jim, I thought he had done the deed on Heat, but he musta not gotten back to it.
Maybe he can drill out the glue in hole with a "special" bit.
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New line? Ooooooo, sweet!
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Brad says the line is mine. He didn't say anything about reservations from any of you guys. This aint SPH...
I do plan on going out there on Wednesday and working on the anchor situation. I might stash my 70m static line up top for the duration of the project. I plan on possibly placing a new top anchor as the Manzanita on top is dead. And it truly is worth getting to the summit on this one. This seems like step one. Then I go down and start replacing the anchors.
I'm accepting strong (or just arms) for this project. This is an amazing route, on spectacular rock, up one of the coolest walls in pinnacles. I've already forgotten how terrifying getting to the first bolt was...
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I recruited John Bolte, one of the local hard boys from The Edge.
I started my Mud-corruption of the 16 year-old John by taking him on his first West Pinns route.
It's funny how in the ten years since Stevi D the roles have changed... now I'm the leader.
It was 80 degrees in the parking lot at 9AM.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/21710_10151184742639830_1609125822_n.jpg)
Ahhh Yess, the Resurrection Wall. I was initially drawn to it as training for a future installment of Mittens and I's Mega Linkups. And later realized one my heros, Rupert Kammerlander, did the FA. For scale Im the little yellow spec.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/1101_10151184742034830_809080816_n.jpg)
I'll skip the first 60 feet as much has been written here about the stuff that covers the rock.
Lets get to the business...
The Star Drivin' Belay.
Me giving a YOSAR approved rope management lesson.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/26653_10151184742504830_469520523_n.jpg)
John is sporting a Mull-Hawk, apparently its a substitute for a helmet. His dad Mike approved, but rest assured John wont forget his helmet again.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/600692_10151140027751267_399063542_n.jpg)
Entering the business of deciphering the first 11A crux.
You can't see the bolts, mentally they didn't really exist.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/21919_10151184742309830_1133872372_n.jpg)
Mike Bolte is excellent at photographing birds. His lenses really come in handy for shooting climbing too.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/32346_10151184742419830_977826095_n.jpg)
The second 11A crux at the end of pitch 2
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/390169_10151140020401267_248512797_n.jpg)
Proper technique for shooting photos while belaying.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/305596_10151184741759830_1875962750_n.jpg)
And then I freed The Boot..... whoops wrong trip report.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/534128_10151141484631267_1425257465_n.jpg)
John loves runouts, mostly to impress the girls, but I think he's trying to impress me too. So I sent him up to link 3 and 4, which turned out to be a bad idea with a 60m rope.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/14294_10151184741614830_862894026_n.jpg)
Headwall glory
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/387939_10151184741559830_1976311885_n.jpg)
John offroute on some incredible rock at the top just before he belayed me off the dead manzanita bush, to avoid simulclimbing. We agreed in advance that this was a no fall operation. Trust was paramount.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/599582_10151184741444830_794991935_n.jpg)
Typical large Resurrection Wall knob, kind of like the Monolith with a lot more lichen.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/76278_10151141442846267_1972572329_n.jpg)
A Rupert Kammerlander Special on the spectacular final 5.7 traverse. We're not going to replace that baby.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/21130_10151140021001267_1330802858_n.jpg)
Everything seemed a lot prettier and excruciatingly vibrant when we reached the summit. Kind of like when John Muir summited Mt Ritter. or maybe it was just the scorching sun. Either way we ate some M&M's and I proceeded to stumble down to the base, way more worked than after climbing The Nose. It turns out that Pinnacles is the real deal and can invoke pain and pleasure as well as any other local.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/23948_10151141444476267_854208463_n.jpg)
Not far off the trail a beautiful wall awaits, a sure experience in Licheneering that will cleanse you soul.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/197214_10151140019546267_406773880_n.jpg)
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pure envy ( from my perspective ).
really nice pics.
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Great photos. It's funny too how the roles change over time isn't it? You seem to be doing a great job as the mentor. And good call on the helmet.
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Where is Mittens, is he seeing this?
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I was contacted by Ruppert Kammerlander's lover a few days ago. Today was his birthday. I plan on meeting with her when I return to hear stories, look through some old photos, and learn more about the man whose routes I've been obsessed with.
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Nice!
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I was contacted by Ruppert Kammerlander's lover a few days ago. Today was his birthday. I plan on meeting with her when I return to hear stories, look through some old photos, and learn more about the man whose routes I've been obsessed with.
Ironic that I was talking to Joel about Rupert today. I lead Needle's Eye, the last of the Sew What Needles that I hadn't done. Joel couldn't believe how bold a route it was. I told him all I knew of Rupert's history, up to and including the hush puppy shoes (I woulda' been terrified in shoes like that on this route, ahmygodohmygod!!). At least one of the bolts on Sew What South is stamped with "RK," and Clint and I concluded that he must have done the FAs of at least Needle's Eye and Needle's Edge (they were never reported by him though).
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I lead Needle's Eye, the last of the Sew What Needles that I hadn't done.
You snuck in and did an onsight today?
Sounds like a hairy lead with only one bolt.
How many do you have left to tick off?
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Photos would be cool.
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You snuck in and did an onsight today?
Sounds like a hairy lead with only one bolt.
How many do you have left to tick off?
I have trouble calling an ascent of this type of route an "onsight." I guess it was an onsight, which was a better result than a 60 foot groundfall. But the term seems to apply better to sport routes.
Six routes left.
Sorry for the thread drift Adam.
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six left til...? no more pinns routes EVAR?
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Six more and then... Foreplay!!!
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No, six more until I've done every route at Pinns that is easier than 5.10. Then (actually next season whether I've gotten all six or not) I'm going to get back to picking off some of the tens and elevens that I haven't done yet. Like Foreplay. Next season I won't have just spent all summer doing guidebook research and I can try to be strong at the start of Pinns season.
Sounds like Adam is going to hold me to it (please do!). Yes, right after we do the conditioning tour.
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Maybe the conditioning tour should start with Foreplay.
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I'll show up to the Rendezvuuuz, if I can get a belay on Terranean, and get some laps on Foreplay and POD. Just sayin.
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Maybe the conditioning tour should start with Foreplay.
No, that ain't gonna happen.
Tell you what: you do "Brad's Conditioning Tour" with me, and, later in the season, I'll do "Adam's Conditioning Tour" (more commonly known as Foreplay) with you. We could also start even earlier, in October, with "Tom's Conditioning Tour," which will kick both our asses: come hang at Salsa's B&B for a few days and we'll do some of Addison's two and three star routes in The Lost World (up to 5.13b - I'll belay you on those).
That sounds to me like a win-win-win.
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Brad, sounds like a deal. I really need to checkout some Sonora stuff especially Lost World. I might have to start going to Jailhouse when I get back as my fitness is way up.
Chris and I are heading back to Oliana today to work on our projects. We both had breakthroughs over the last few days. I've fallen 5 times at a tricky traverse after 70 feet of tricky 5.12+. Today I plan on making it to the big jug at the end of the traverse and then style the last 40 feet of 5.12- terrain. I haven't been so obsessed with something like this in so long. Should make Ranger Bolts feel a little easier when I return. It's been a journey to project something so close to my limit for over a month and fall 20+ times.
Chris just got back from the USA and he looks refreshed. I wouldn't be surprised if he sends La Dura Dura today.
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Brad, sounds like a deal. I really need to checkout some Sonora stuff especially Lost World. I might have to start going to Jailhouse when I get back as my fitness is way up.
Chris and I are heading back to Oliana today to work on our projects. We both had breakthroughs over the last few days. I've fallen 5 times at a tricky traverse after 70 feet of tricky 5.12+. Today I plan on making it to the big jug at the end of the traverse and then style the last 40 feet of 5.12- terrain. I haven't been so obsessed with something like this in so long. Should make Ranger Bolts feel a little easier when I return. It's been a journey to project something so close to my limit for over a month and fall 20+ times.
Chris just got back from the USA and he looks refreshed. I wouldn't be surprised if he sends La Dura Dura today.
Cool stuff......thanks for sharing and looking forward to the follow up news.
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Anyone want to replace bolts with me?