MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on November 09, 2012, 11:26:28 AM
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Forecast for Soledad tomorrow is not so hot. Not to mention SPH is frozen solid.
Thinking Sunday. Where you guys going to be on the Wside?
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Thinking Sunday?
profound?
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Citadel... maybe
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Our plan was to do some easier stuff so KC and I could do some leading - but I'm flexible and up for anything.
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Thinking Sunday?
profound?
Not yet, but on Sunday, when I'm thinking, I may come up with something brilliant!
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Cool. I'm pretty flexible as I suspect Mucci will stay in Yos, so I'm looking to latch a partner, hang with the group, drill some bolts on an FA on the West Side I've been looking at, catch up on the local gossip with Waldo (he's really, the only true local that doesn't work for the Monument, ya know! He is the scene. ya dig!)
:D
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Dig. Yep - dropped Waldo a note too.
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Beer?
I need to re-re-check with the boss.
I'd bring the little man, so the terrain would have to be sane...
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Beer?
Duh. ::)
9:00 parking lot.
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Waldo, you in too?
What's the 411 on conditions today?
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With this post I realized it is the 28th anniversary of my job.
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With this post I realized it is the 28th anniversary of my job.
Congrats!
But I gotta ask, what triggered the Total Recall?
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The title of the thread 11/11
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And, how have you survived after all these years?
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Brad and I will be in the area working on the re-bolting project. I might bring Jon Stein down and send him in the direction of you guys if he can't find a partner. I assume he will entertain you or vice versa.
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Went to the eastside with a buddy who is 1+ year out on two hip replacements. Did some old favorites: Swallow Crack, Ordeal, Portent, Coyote Ugly. Loads of people -- by noon the Discovery Wall looked and sounded like Planet Granite on a weeknight :D so we moved on and hung out with Bill McC at Tiburcio's X. A good day.
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Brad and I will be in the area working on the re-bolting project. I might bring Jon Stein down and send him in the direction of you guys if he can't find a partner. I assume he will entertain you or vice versa.
sorry we missed seeing you guys! evidently we were only about 20 minutes ahead of you. lots of climbers on the west side today. we spotted folks at the Flumes, Elephant Rock and the Balconies. we had a blast with Crux, Phil, and Munge at Passion Play Wall, Destiny Wall and Smiling Simian. met a pair of younger climbers at Destiny Wall as we were coming back down off Beyond Destiny - aka POS and directed them to Costanoan - Joel and Amanda? told them about Mud N Crud :)
highlights of the day - KC led Dos Equis*** - yeah baybay!
Crux led Twinkle Toes and placed her first gear at Pinns - yea!
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John, sorry we missed all of you. Of the parties you saw, that was Dawsons on Elephant Rock.
Adam, that was a good day, thanks. I think we got off to a good start, working on a fine route.
Adam and I got two of the four belay anchors on the route rebolted (all the bolts we placed were long, stainless steel, 3/8"). We also got two of the seven bolts on the first pitch replaced (about three more need replacement). Although this is not a large number, the effort required in getting to the bolts to replace them took some serious time.
For those of you who wonder what some of the old bolts you use for protection look like (as may be obvious, the two replaced bolts are juxtaposed with a new, long, stainless steel piece):
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8347/8179257804_39e5af5182_b.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8057/8179226951_969f9e03b1_b.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8179227351_d5c97daf82_b.jpg)
About the two old bolts shown: First, the quarter inch bolt with the aluminum hanger was longer than I expected. Obviously I'd be very worried about it's shear strength (at least) because of it's diameter. But it's pullout strength was also remarkably low; I pulled it straight out with three strong tugs with a 14" crowbar.
The bolt-less hanger shown was from an even scarier bolt, one that looked better than the first one because it was 3/8" in diameter and placed in good rock. I tried to pull this bolt out, but couldn't get purchase under the hanger with the crowbar (Adam had the tuning forks). So I tried an alternative: I hit the bolt hard with my hammer. Three downward blows and the bolt broke off, clean. I know Jim McCon had a similar experience with a similar bolt (3/8" split shaft) last month while replacing bolts on The Balconies. How do hard hammer blows compare with leader falls in force generated? I don't know. I know that lead falls are at least dynamic. But three hammer blows? Wow!
While I was replacing these, Adam revamped the first pitch anchor. He was able to re-use one of the existing holes by removing a Star Dryvin bolt from a large, deeply embedded lodestone. He then drilled the hole deeper, drilling, in part, through the lead (the metal lead) that was left in the hole. I think it took him nearly an hour to drill that hole 1 to 1 1/2 inches deeper. But, the result was as good a bolt as could ever be found, even in better rock like granite. Nice job, Adam.
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Munge and his Green Box in the parking lot.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/verve1.jpg)
Here is the Rupert Kammerlander Stardrive bolt I pulled from the embedded cobble. Notice the original prone to cracking thin SMC hanger. This was extremely well placed and did not come out easily. The hole he drilled was impeccable. Notice the well stamped RK. This guy was an incredible technician from what I've seen.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/verve2.jpg)
Another view of the internals minus the lead sheath. I left the lag bolts in the car... doh!
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/verve3.jpg)
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Which route were you guys on? I opted for Castle...mistake.
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Resurrection Wall - Regular Route.
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Thanks for posting that scary bolt stuff guys - and nice work this weekend!
KC and I went back out for some High Peaks adventuring today.
We scoped out multiple routes and ended up onsighting Egg Shell and Cinder.
The bolt spacing and what felt like a continuous series of committing moves between rests on EggShell scared the crap out of me. Cinder is short but spicy and a bit of a sandbag in my opinion.
I definitely want to go back and onsight Trainspotting, Disintegration Pinnacle, Freedom Dome and the Smokestack.
I've also been clamoring to go over and scale Frothy Flake.
Here is a museum piece on Freedom Dome - can't wait to clip this beauty - NOT!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djrWjNXWgVeJJy3NAc5adeswRUvyHteHKMJ9x-I90623WdVR8QOKwCm7uy35tM1RUqLxa0_STO-HDKQpERpJfm6MP_YryMnKSU1UE_HbZu54gSyAusHQSBTxMyNbrge8K08YlDe4tFcsaxRtdob1lG=w689-h625-no?authuser=0)
Got to see a condor swooping over Tuff and Bynum's from Kermit as we were packing up for the exit hike.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbeCcmhFezMRVD51AKUCzawMjj9a6mjEpKnKZKOHuy3erCbG5BIazK2DHFg5FDVFTiQayu-EHYigHou_qbVvhnAfq-qxapsPVBYEHLsXaeHwdbCnR3gag55CZ9Ori1XOyYzKQcWL7LLEISlyYvtCLv=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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looks like a lot of climbers in that last photo
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Resurrection Wall - Regular Route.
That's great! I thought the bolts look familiar.
Did you scrub the holds?
Let me know when you go again.
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John, sorry we missed all of you. Of the parties you saw, that was Dawsons on Elephant Rock.
i was watching Steve belay at the top of Elephant from my belay at the top of Beyond Destiny - and he was watching us too - although i didn't know it was him at the time. i sent him the pic i took.
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looks like a lot of climbers in that last photo
there were several and none of them were wearing helmets (i don't get it).
hikers seemed to be getting a chuckle looking at us sitting on top of Cinder.
i think it holds the distinction for shortest 5.7 at 20 feet.
that sucker is a spicy lead though - felt harder and more sustained than Piglet(my first and shortest 5.8 onsight 1-15-12). i figured Cinder was going to be a challenge since it's so short - my long reach was a definite asset.