MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on November 16, 2012, 11:08:00 PM
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By the way, 77 leads and counting is pretty impressive (actually, 77 onsights - are there more leads you've done that count as leads even if they are not onsights?). Sounds like you'll go over 100 this coming season (or, really, this season we are now in).
Keep us posted?
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By the way, 77 leads and counting is pretty impressive (actually, 77 onsights - are there more leads you've done that count as leads even if they are not onsights?). Sounds like you'll go over 100 this coming season (or, really, this season we are now in).
Keep us posted?
If I count all leads I have re-led 35 lines that I previously onsighted.
Some of those I've led more than twice like Corona-5x, Big Bad West 8x (4 solo), Kermit 5x, Walk the Plank 3x and Photographer's Delight 3x - mostly as a result of taking other people out or as warmups for the day.
I guess technically I've had one redpoint on Elephant Rock's Reg Rte since I followed Aaron the first time - we took KC and Crux there the following weekend and we both led it so they could follow.
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I guess I was looking for the total number of Pinnacles climbing routes you've "done," in good style. My definition of "done" is to have led a route with no hangs, falls or taints of any kind as a red-point or better (so, for example, I've "done" routes that are very hard for me by getting a clean lead after several attempts). Of course, routes that only exist as topropes are "done" by climbing them clean on toprope. Leading the same route clean five times would still only equal one route "done."
Since I've never been able to lead very hard routes, I've always taken pleasure in just doing a large number of routes.
By whatever measure you're racking up one heck of a list at Pinns, and it appears that, even by my definition, you'll soon have "done" more than 100 routes there.
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I guess I was looking for the total number of Pinnacles climbing routes you've "done," in good style. My definition of "done" is to have led a route with no hangs, falls or taints of any kind as a red-point or better (so, for example, I've "done" routes that are very hard for me by getting a clean lead after several attempts). Of course, routes that only exist as topropes are "done" by climbing them clean on toprope. Leading the same route clean five times would still only equal one route "done."
Since I've never been able to lead very hard routes, I've always taken pleasure in just doing a large number of routes.
By whatever measure you're racking up one heck of a list at Pinns, and it appears that, even by my definition, you'll soon have "done" more than 100 routes there.
I appreciate the props - gotta say I am having the time of my life!
Can you clarify something for me?
Does my lead on Elephant count as a redpoint since I followed it once - one weekend before I led it.
I think the fact that I followed it negates the redpoint.
It was totally within my ability to lead, but I gave Aaron dibs since it was his idea to go up there.
In retrospect I should have asked him to just pull the rope up and rappel so I could lead it too.
The route wandered way too much to have him lower and clean on the way down.
I think you and I have the same philosophy - I don't count any climb as "done" that I don't onsight or lead clean from the ground up after a failed attempt (redpoint). There are two climbs I need to redpoint (I got spit off on the first try) - Me and My Monkey and Lucky 13.
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Can you clarify something for me?
Does my lead on Elephant count as a redpoint since I followed it once - one weekend before I led it.
I think the fact that I followed it negates the redpoint.
I think you and I have the same philosophy - I don't count any climb as "done" that I don't onsight or lead clean from the ground up after a failed attempt (redpoint).
Your first comment is incorrect about what a redpoint is, but your second comment gets it right.
A redpoint is any clean lead (no hangs, no falls, no taints of any kind), and so your lead of that route, having followed it once, was definitely a redpoint (and thus, according to my sense of style, and I think, by most climbers sense, you've done the route; it counts on your total number of Pinnacles ascents).
Following it first (or failing in a lead attempt first) doesn't negate a redpoint, it negates a flash or onsight (and I don't pretend to understand the difference between these two phrases; Rob knows and can explain that distinction).
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Your first comment is incorrect about what a redpoint is, but your second comment gets it right.
A redpoint is any clean lead (no hangs, no falls, no taints of any kind), and so your lead of that route, having followed it once, was definitely a redpoint (and thus, according to my sense of style, and I think, by most climbers sense, you've done the route; it counts on your total number of Pinnacles ascents).
Following it first (or failing in a lead attempt first) doesn't negate a redpoint, it negates a flash or onsight (and I don't pretend to understand the difference between these two phrases; Rob knows and can explain that distinction).
This is what I found online a while back - can't remember the source. Maybe Rob will chime in too.
No mention is made about leading a route after following it.
The reason I thought that might negate a redpoint is because it seems too similar to toproping - which I never do if I'm planning to lead something. I'm to the point now where I don't like to follow or toprope - although following does require you to make many of the same moves and gain critical stances that the leader does - albeit without the same stakes.
Onsight: climb a route without prior knowledge or experience of the moves and without falling or weighting the rope.
Redpointing: leading a climb after previous unsuccessful attempts - without falling or resting on the rope
As matters of style, any of the following are likely to be regarded as poor style by most free climbers:
Pre-climb inspections: learning the nuances of a route rather than assessing the route for safety.
Flash: a clean lead on the first attempt after having received beta (coaching) of some form.
Hangdogging: resting on gear or rope during a lead
Pinkpointing: leading on pre-placed gear
Headpointing: I think this one should be called “what’s the pointing” - top roping a climb before leading it.
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flash and onsights are sometimes defined differently.
true onsight is no prior knowledge, no pre-rehearsal
some say a top rope can't be onsighted or flashed because it has to be a lead.
I say that one can 'flash' a top rope, but only lead an onsight.
we should pull some definitions from the books and see if we can nail it down. I like JC's style. He's very particular about which routes he's done in which style. The only trouble is he doesn't like to TR. lol
Coming from Joshua Tree where everything is short, top roping is very common and a great way to try harder stuff without risk.
anyways, I digress.
nice job JC on the triple digits. How many are Pinns vs. other areas? Or was 77 all pinns?
at pinns, as of winter of 08, I had only done, via lead or done in good style (i.e. no falls), 228. I'd been "on" in some way shape or form 302. But the second number is just a reflection of how many climbs I've followed or fell on. blah I suck. Time to get the season moving again! Maybe I'll count up the new stuff tomorrow.
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I like JC's style. He's very particular about which routes he's done in which style.
nice job JC on the triple digits. How many are Pinns vs. other areas? Or was 77 all pinns?
I did my first lead ever (onsight) on 12-23 last year at Pinns.
The 77 is onsight leads at Pinns.
If I count Alabama Hills(10), Red Rocks(4) and SPH(8) I have 99 onsight :)
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Rob, as you may know, I've got a 20 year long New Year's day tradition of counting/renumbering all of the routes I've done in each area I climb. It's fun to do, especially if it's snowing that day.
J.C. I'm curious, using my definition, how many Pinns routes have you "done?" It's more than 77, right?
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I did my first lead ever (onsight) on 12-23 last year at Pinns.
The 77 is onsight leads at Pinns.
If I count Alabama Hills(10), Red Rocks(4) and SPH(8) I have 99 onsight :)
quite a tally considering the start date. way to get out there.
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J.C. I'm curious, using my definition, how many Pinns routes have you "done?" It's more than 77, right?
Nope - sorry...it's 77 onsight and one redpoint. I only number the onsights on my list.
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quite a tally considering the start date. way to get out there.
thanks Mud. i'd be out there today were it not for the precip. i think we only missed one weekend last winter due to rain.
we might head down tomorrow and hike/explore some remote areas - maybe jump on some stuff if it looks dry and isn't still raining.
if not i'll console myself by looking forward to the long weekend...
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Real nice numbers
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Real nice numbers
No new #'s today but we had fun hiking up to Resurrection Wall and all over the High Peaks.
We scoped out a bunch of routes we want to do.
The rain held off but there was obviously a flash flood effect yesterday that scoured the trails and started a few pretty dramatic rivulets. Nearly all the Poison Oak has lost its leaves. There was a ton at Resurrection!
Fired up to onsight this coming weekend!!!
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I had a friend that was so obsessed with the difference between an onsight and a flash that when we were at a crag leading routes, if I lead the route first, he would belay by only looking straight ahead at the wall or with his back turned away from the wall so that he couldn't see any of my gear choices, moves, or other beta. At one point he got mad at me because he thought that my grunting on the route would "taint" his onsight because he would be able to anticipate where the cruxes would be by how how much rope was out and where that would put me on the route.
I stopped climbing with him because he was a general douche about everything in life. Whowouldahthunk?
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I had a friend that was so obsessed with the difference between an onsight and a flash that when we were at a crag leading routes, if I lead the route first, he would belay by only looking straight ahead at the wall or with his back turned away from the wall so that he couldn't see any of my gear choices, moves, or other beta. At one point he got mad at me because he thought that my grunting on the route would "taint" his onsight because he would be able to anticipate where the cruxes would be by how how much rope was out and where that would put me on the route.
I stopped climbing with him because he was a general douche about everything in life. Whowouldahthunk?
Funny story!
The grunting thing is a bit extreme - especially since some climbers grunt just while moving!
I have to admit I am a bit obsessed but it's not a problem climbing with KC - she doesn't yet have the onsight "fever" and luckily my other partners don't either. When we've been out with other parties and I've really got my sights set on something, I either make sure someone else belays and I don't watch - or I climb something else simultaneously. The other option is to make sure I get on the onsight first. I guess that might put me dangerously close to being/becoming an onsight douche :) - or at the least a lead hog...
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5 more onsights today on 3 summits - Disintegration Point, The Sow and Little Dome.
Gonna see how many more I can rack up in the High Peaks before the end of this glorius weekend!
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Keeping em coming! I'm liviing vicariously through all these images of things I may or may not want to do.
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I got three more onsights on the 24th - Baby Bear, Mama Bear and the Lump.
Baby Bear is a chossy POS solo 5.6R that I wouldn't recommend(still not sure why I did it!), Mama Bear is a spicy 5.7 with tricky moves and a little cleaner now that I removed some of the loose rock. Papa Bear Reg Rte looked like a mossy death route, so I skipped that one - although the April Fool's Route looked interesting - aside from the fact that the first bolt is 30 feet up and we couldn't see it. Looked like it may have some decent sling knobs IF the rock is solid! Based on the quality of the other members of the "family" I wasn't feeling it. We decided 2 out of three ain't bad (cue Meatloaf here). There are anchors and chains on all 3 formations - only Baby Bear is listed as having an anchor in the book.
The Lump 5.8* was definitely the highlight of the day - steep friction that reminded me of the climbing I did with Brad at Rob's Short Slab my last day on SPH. The Lump got me fired up for day three.
We finished the day with KC leading Miss Piggy - she had been eyeing it for a while, but was put off by the distance to the first bolt. She crushed it in her typical solid style.
JC solos Baby Bear 5.6R - this was kinda nuts! I didn't trust the holds at all!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cE4l9y-prfmb4UwqeADVmaQVD7prBvYW1B4uQae_GPAQBsIf4x_nRvWJOyKlm1SrDkRc8Qbj8QkDnBGy7aKJF1e6tZzkbAT-urV83G9ugvwCplJGEZCccjr8pIt3H0i5PwqjnGcgIbvrl_wHem8VgE=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC on Baby Bear
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3faNVJ_s6Bu0lz42_TvwyeMqFbkuVFKbOt2bY2nVMZeJEH7nNTrGT3cmykNsFIEG7-I1yEd2TLXziD0iNtDzK2d-P-6eZleE1eeIfMHh0j8mef8Db5lXvsxJcr_Rn0MKne0pmhXI9Vu1WZPtkW11T33=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC working toward the only bolt on Mama Bear 5.7
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3efZiV30x--H3agnRt84JKoKyFGY2yWSfEIwYY9hmrBBt_aeCBkYXESoCkPj1jatnKaSdgjsN8BqYbi_PI2h4UPUxVlgSFapg_1ZUs1B0i6kVyjcmvp9z6EkDY_faRlvUL0MLX7zI2xN1nyPRZY0Ycj=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC works a nice undercling on Mama Bear
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3edp3Hdac-N43cvdALJV8B1pWCcFmGLwysg-I6U_A7Kgc_JZz5eEtF84WB0ivu9qNl8YO8yj1ug7BSwm10sbTbGjoAcvyNTgrE3yUUiQ5SWLLYPfVFIf1vDPKMUK6jKkzKYSdCT-ImAS4GFLAGjlb-_=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC on the summit of Mama Bear - check out Papa Bear's growling shadow!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cYB4o9g5e8RwQ5ahUGY2RohGlUVauN_fWq-sGQS8kJzd6eBfoECqd1HTibyqGsVoIIAhoubmrzerAmHBZgjubxytrTSjp_8yCPIfHY5-n9gxQrPw04K0iZwETR0iqE5KSRiniT4fKk0WzRGuOEWtaK=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC on the Lump 5.8*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eBxOyqW2NgAv8TDy1n6Y2Kfo1dLD8ZtOZIZlnmP5DxYQdD2fmjssIL1oKpcKWoIxLym1wHiQWLOVo0EQf2jT0_dNct7EKYDr3CbL0KpoyMFOLFIPZUTr4Zq-La7Lq7pjfx-6sBAIldiaKXxKwa53-a=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC's shadow from the summit of The Lump
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cWMxXzrjGmxFpNeg07-No5RA-rQqXlMA7cN9QFDK2ZBQt6hK4XT7mftcwgtGx23aIELh8KAMgyJETDlI56jFMKErNKoXkBKWcYmCy2K86SWTBf8t7yBviDJ_gJ10uQUco3xnmCG4eZL07Gnry5b-ue=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC strung out on The Lump - this was my favorite pic of the whole weekend!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e3mxKCzuRDpslTtFZbDw58KbZqjv0NI46nudttnigUNzidsmKTZZBBMeex2QXAWprvpczsypmuTrYjD11y_vBD0FGcwgRYzhxPTwjAFOxeYSomI3grVa9qxByCcLrDLbyh8MjB__YIRwNXC2oaIczI=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Yesterday was day 3 in the High peaks and I intended to add several climbs on the Flatiron to my onsight list. Crux and hubby Phil joined us along with one of my geology students from West Valley College (Chris Bencomo). We all got our heads right taking turns leading Photographer's Delight and then headed for the Flatiron.
Crux decided to jump on the Regular Route 5.3 - an onsight for her and my first lead ever, anywhere, 11 months and a day earlier. KC and I went around the corner to Burton's Below. The climb looked fun until I got above the first bolt and realized that it was a lot harder than it looked. Maybe I was tired, maybe the sun glaring around the left edge and in my eyes caused me to misread holds, no doubt in my mind the crux section was a sandbag - for whatever reason (I've been running over it in my mind ever since) - I took my second leader fall about one move below the second bolt and KC caught me mere inches above the ground. Had I decked I would have landed on my spine (trying not to think about that part). Chis said I fell backwards like a rag doll. Whoosh, boink, wham (the wham was KC being lifted off the ground and smacking into the rock). She hung on like a champ. I think we were both in shock afterwards - she worse than I. Crux was in the middle of her lead - talk about unnerving!
All said and done we are both okay, Crux finished the lead like a champ and Phil and Chris followed.
JC starting Burton's Below, Crux is over to the right about 1/3 of the way up the Reg Rte - The Flatiron
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fVe0lR7cRx65VOciWaCXSwfWTBQ-TlGRLw4nM369_O7U7cCJy_p7bcFzqTxeLWRvCWqKrSuI7YTEQl4mQHphGhHLSvF2GTIFUNrRJY0ec28jeJGjdmB8-dE9Ls8Kk2LdZ1efBN2TJPx7SlE_ac-bAS=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
We hiked the steep and narrow over to the Sponge and Crux led the Reg Rte 5.0** while I led the Left Side 5.6**
We had a great end of day up top!
I already had many things to be thankful for this weekend but now I have many more!!!
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5 more onsights today on 3 summits - Disintegration Point, The Sow and Little Dome.
Gonna see how many more I can rack up in the High Peaks before the end of this glorius weekend!
Here's a few more shots from the long weekend - these are all Thanksgiving day
Stepping onto the summit "ball" of Disintegration Point 4th class - this was NOT a fun downclimb!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dkyDWudQTC9IpxjXWJC9SNlritFdTLlrR1fcEgw5BbRQXasJhjnUnsuJ8ZW032cfrTcCvFCMZcjUouU2lySyahjqcfOe0RQBAYrEkW9VRUu8RWSDQQnax750CKsq8uIT8LjsQAA9Tx0WvBfqg4OH_Z=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The Sow E Shoulder 4th class - everything but the entry/exit move is mellow
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fceuH1WEyqzaNGee7VW8yhKxbJi4bhpACwTHZozcSv-O9vk_lHo8zGnDVWGbCPeTBnnraHLT72BbOx-Y2xYK-otP5-3AlbS53-_YkVIILDP7g3MWdxO_Iahrt46cx69FKWTZePT0atMhN8RpUFwJHB=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The Sow SE Face 5.6 - we've walked by this so many times, we figured it was time to do it!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fLLMqKfWFwuxTRTLkb2wISoM7Vmhm-BXdJqkiRcJSB7F2nLPnlMoWp3n8LvtAG9Kg7cLoESwCqGn9UfacW3_1A0InHqx052tTToPor3VEqR1ALFB1yTsRXNBO2iQ0Pfy7JEOK_guJ5DwlgBxRUotkn=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Catch Me 5.5R what's with all the solos today?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fAnrWowxsGA3ur5Bvx0a_vSLZoGvKHZNFiwsSbI83BCQ08Wh2GWYBcfdS7Pmoftn25aQr8mLdzhrYrQrQFjCdGdj-IdPSFMrK7v_-5QZL711tGeLnQCyPfMiquvxKnRgNxY4nMuCpR2KI12cVvNnJa=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Got You 5.6...definitely the mossiest and possibly the crappiest route we've ever done...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dGhdjp4pFX06zr_IMh4-EOo7KLBkqavrYp93DSt4dCa_At-GINxdltPanUB8lZdQmHPEUecsg_dhOjYzJSIbCuIELr9ouf4tey6UkC_zzbGnz0pmBsEaumezXJbAqVdtIpv6yk7KYtoBk-JtxCtlyT=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Fun with shadows on our way down...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cZnykTxWmGANgmiK7276Gw5-FYpTaOrXUkidfL6V0i7w9HTb6yY710Gv4xrAepa1HoupOOSJoch6a-dsBo1mHy6K1voy5QdRsEGkM7-fLSOn5Vf4_8-nvueaXEuLERCmiPIowoUCZIPI_vUV00lckI=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
as the failing light illuminates the mercenaries creed...and the soldier sheaths his sword...while the poet lifts his pen...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c495CBpYKbiPrKo7gKfWn8jgisJHYnUhEGDKBDUzNDmTNAJtgblGOttaMGVgPTkf273Lg8N9qBVNZEx6UT7keiZPVoR9dnGgk_e7O2QLxDlJ5yuLLxQ8kEtC6_HQEPjcL9x5BdXBsOVoyBBZNt4FAM=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Whoosh, boink, wham
The sickening silence that followed was interminable and one which I hope to never have to endure again.
Without being able to see, I was convinced I'd heard JC hit the dirt rather than KC hitting the wall. I held my breath and gripped the rock until finally everyone said they thought they were okay. Whew- still gives me chills to think of it.
Luckily we were able to end the day on a better note! Thanks again guys.
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Good to hear everyone is ok and that you got some good climbing in.
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Good to hear everyone is ok and that you got some good climbing in.
thanks Mud!
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While I am sure that Burtons Below is solid 5.9 (now), I don't think it was a sandbag at 5.8 when we put it up in the early 90s.
I hadn't been on it since the early 90s until two seasons ago, when I went there with Joel. He led it and thought it was 5.9. I was quite surprised that it felt solid 5.9 when I followed it. And 5.9 in two places (where J.C. fell and pulling over the top).
Do you suppose that holds may have broken off in 12+ years? ::)
I recall that the bolts that we placed were long and solid. The last bolt was in especially solid rock. I'm very glad the second one (in particular) was in good rock too.
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While I am sure that Burtons Below is solid 5.9 (now), I don't think it was a sandbag at 5.8 when we put it up in the early 90s.
I hadn't been on it since the early 90s until two seasons ago, when I went there with Joel. He led it and thought it was 5.9. I was quite surprised that it felt solid 5.9 when I followed it. And 5.9 in two places (where J.C. fell and pulling over the top).
Do you suppose that holds may have broken off in 12+ years? ::)
I recall that the bolts that we placed were long and solid. The last bolt was in especially solid rock. I'm very glad the second one (in particular) was in good rock too.
Brad - it honestly looked like a fun route to us at the start and I knew you were one of the FA'ers. I've been on a few of your other routes that have been excellent and not underrated - e.g. Dead on the Shoulder, Sinbad and Scragglepuss.
My tr description may have been misleading - with regard to where I peeled off. I was one move below the second bolt. I modified the language. You are absolutely correct - the hardware was solid and so was the climb - I still can't figure out what happened. KC says no rocks came down - just me! The image of me whizzing by her may be forever in her memory. I don't want to give anything away regarding the holds for anyone looking to onsight. I'll give it another shot but probably with an equal weight belayer and definitely with a single locking biner on bolt one. There is a booty biner on it for now - one I retrieved from Mama Bear. KC says easy come easy go!
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I love that area on the HP. Flatiron is such a nice place to hang out, have some lunch and pull some mud. Burtons did indeed feel like 5.8+/5.9 no doubt. Need to get back up there as that 5.10+ on the back looks worthy of some hang time:-)
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I love that area on the HP. Flatiron is such a nice place to hang out, have some lunch and pull some mud. Burtons did indeed feel like 5.8+/5.9 no doubt. Need to get back up there as that 5.10+ on the back looks worthy of some hang time:-)
Yes I was hoping to get several onsights as an almost anniversary thing since the Regular Route was my first lead ever. Unfortunately sometimes shit happens. No worries, I can still get some onsights there and redpoint Burton's.
The count is at 85 after this past weekend!
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Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?
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Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?
Not clear what you're asking?
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Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?
Scraggle shows you and Brad, Munge.
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Sorry, let me clarify, JC's post that the route was 'yours' reminded me about having a directional bolt at the top, and that we talked about it being a good thing. The FA list in the book shows Brad, Munge, David and Doug L. in that order.
I seem to recall it being me that did the final redpoint, in addition to some of the bolt lifting, and I think the top directional one, but that part is what I can't recall clearly.
The FA info doc that you sent me, shows it Munge, Brad, David and Doug L. (with track changes I made, to add the specific date, not just the month in 01).
Probably just got mixed up between the versions/transcription.
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I'm up to 91! I know what I want to do for my 100th...
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I'm up to 91! I know what I want to do for my 100th...
Spill the beans then. What route? Or... your own FA? You could call it "The Race to the Century."
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Spill the beans then. What route? Or... your own FA? You could call it "The Race to the Century."
Maybe you and I could bolt that 5.5 arete along the bio trail for 101 and call it Turn of the Century.
I thought dedicating #100 to someone who has been an inspiration to my climbing would be appropriate.
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I thought dedicating #100 to someone who has been an inspiration to my climbing would be appropriate.
I didn't mean to be evasive Brad - I just thought it might be more fun as a surprise...besides I still have to get 8 more onsights...and the way things have been going with my explorational/adventure route choices - that may take a while...unless I go out climbing with you again!
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3 more onsights yesterday.
Beak Peak Regular Route, Beak Easy and Punctuation Pinnacle - my first X in the Pinns.
A condor flew over two different times while we were up there - maybe the same one.
We finished the day with Aaron onsighting Photographer's Delight.
94 and counting.
We were gonna go back out today but KC's wrist is acting up again.
Forecast looks good for the coming weekend.
Aaron leading Photographer's Delight - ending the year on a 3 star classic!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eRXu2R_-oocojnMwlbFTYMhX4fqEYk9cTmbCj4yBK8b71EfEYfSeMNmk5rL9MLEdHxPRLwz7irx8snKHR1eClSCXF3DSuBLE4ASx33ohhKcgcHgS0r5nLLEzvutylE_AcpDzo8VXgaQHv2Oc7kToUv=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC on the eastern summit of Beak Peak
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fbRlu5u90j7Z8vH7FsY2hQhGKQQuLaPVzk7k7eH_r1uBPOWZyISCswEucdxQmEdkMbxWZtpLRW8sDtoGp6A3MswHqGzHdPOicFZfIq-b6L4ecWloI7SV1QIFzguTfFg42FDLP0THkCwXtmg_aahtRV=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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J.C. it sounds like you'll hit 100 before the end of January. And then you'll be working toward 100 in Joshua Tree and 100 on Sonora Pass Highway, and...
Well you get the picture. Fun isn't it?
I've never been able to climb very hard, but I've had great fun with such numbers.
I just finished one of my long New Years day traditions that lets me have this type of fun. On New Years day I recount all my routes by area and put the summary in my climbing journal. To "count" a route I must have led it in redpoint or better style, unless the climb only exists as a toprope, and then I must have climbed it with no hangs or falls (very few routes only exist as topropes; for example, my Idyllwild and Joshua Tree totals include one toprope route each). To count a multi-pitch route I must have led the crux or one of the cruxes.
I count the areas where I've done most of my climbing, omitting from my totals "once-in-a-great-while" places like Calaveras Domes.
Here are my total (lifetime) numbers as of this January 1st:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8497/8341043366_c1b9724893_c.jpg)
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J.C. it sounds like you'll hit 100 before the end of January. And then you'll be working toward 100 in Joshua Tree and 100 on Sonora Pass Highway, and...
Wow that is fun to look at!
Thanks for sharing.
For me you can add:
Alabama Hills - 12
SPH - 8
Red Rocks - 4
JTree - 11
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For me you can add:
Alabama Hills - 12
SPH - 8
Red Rocks - 4
JTree - 11
Nice. And all in what, a year and two or three weeks?
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Very impressive list Brad, and Jc is on the way....
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Nice. And all in what, a year and two or three weeks?
Thanks! - it's been a helluva an adventure so far.
Yep - Dec 23rd was my first lead.
Out of cusiosity I just totaled your list and you're only one route shy of 4000 in CA - WOW!!!
The topographic and geologic possibilities of this state seem endless!
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If I don't count the unofficial FA Aaron and I soloed yesterday at Crowley I'm up to 98!
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If I don't count the unofficial FA Aaron and I soloed yesterday at Crowley I'm up to 98!
What did you get done yesterday?
We saw you - or at least a likely looking orange shirt - on Cover Girl at a little after 4:00 (from the parking lot).
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What did you get done yesterday?
We saw you - or at least a likely looking orange shirt - on Cover Girl at a little after 4:00 (from the parking lot).
Tower 5 Second Class + the 200 Pound Club 5.0 - 4th class
Tower 2 Third Class
FA free solo - It's Not Third Class 5.3 - next formation behind Sub 3 - north side
KC did 2nd Bump and Balconies Balls 5.3
Aaron did Balconies Balls
Aaron led The 800 Club - KC followed
I led Killer Keller Arete followed by KC and Aaron
Aaron led Cover Girl (with an orange rain jacket) and KC followed - they may have been the first to use the next to last bolt.
I had green hoodie on top of multi-layer chewy nougat orange.
Guess I need to get an orange hoodie or windbreaker :)
We looked at several class 5's on the Towers but didn't like a) the climb, b) the downclimb or c) the anchor.
Confused on where the climb was on T4 - looked like it involved a scramble down a gully/slot/chimney to start.
Save 'em for another day and maybe a bolt kit - still want to learn to drill.
How was your adventure?
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Hundred this weekend?
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Hundred this weekend?
Yep. Providing I can count Manatee 5.3 (our FA at Crowley) - I'm at 99!
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sweet
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A few of my fellow mud n crudders are already aware, but I still wanted to share with the rest of you who weren't able to be out on the west side this past weekend. I completed my 100th Pinnacles onsight Saturday with KC.
I wanted to pick a climb that would have special meaning to me, as well as one that would honor Brad and his family.
Since meeting Brad last February he has been a friend, mentor, teacher and an inspiration.
On our trips up to SPH over the summer and early autumn, Brad, Vicki, Tricia and Katie treated me and KC like members of the family - so what better choice than a climb established with family in mind...drumroll please...
JC on the crux of Young Generations 5.6
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cjryiZk3xHm_1aaat5Jj_OXpuYXgdnJgK8BD7ZYULqj-7Hj9EfyQAzmIi_SCehXgYHO95su_A0Wt5gv5cZE29L3y6ja4YQpLHSYEpcGjsJdn2-vjoXbqOw3allhYr-I4RIkgqrBuDM_Zh5oZ__9eHa=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC on the summit of Young Generations with a single digit up for the first 100!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egIPCNwRvNYeBZOhcDzQvQSxv2jxPMNWUMUiuauiCkufw8GqNajD66im1_gM0lXx0kkSCRKe-vNUyFTRaZBX0Sb0T8oVwraKGCWraT-LK7sRf-5T3njfm9YH_1P7sd9cJiuAzA3NBqbjxnul3Dt-gF=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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very nice. t'was a clear and cold day for such a fine ascent.
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sweet, congratulations
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Well, at first I thought that your choice of routes was coincidental. Now that I know it wasn't, I truly am honored. Cool.
That might have been the route's third ascent, BTW.
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You know, the story of Young Generations' first ascent is buried on the FoP site. Just for fun here it is (yep, Tricia was hiking by herself to the High Peaks When she was two weeks shy of 3 years old):
Mar 12 , 2005
Another trip to Pinnacles, this time on a lighter note. I head over with my (almost) 3-year old daughter on Friday evening to meet my father. Dad's 70 years old now. He climbs with me some, but his passion is birding. He wants to see a condor in the wild.
The plan for Saturday is for Trish, Dad and me to hike into the High Peaks to a clump of smaller pinnacles that don't seem to have been climbed. Later, my wife, Vicki, and my 9-year old daughter, Katie, will join us when they arrive and so too will Chuck, Carol, Jim, Jaime, Allan and his friend.
Dad, Trish and I get an early start since we want to allow time for Trish to hike all by herself to the High Peaks. Dad wanders with his binoculars watching birds. Trish and I hike steadily, stopping for water and to look at flowers. We generally keep a loose, but sure focus on the hike. After less than two hours hiking, we arrive at what I am calling "The Playground." Dad and Trish sit down for hard boiled eggs, cheese and nuts while I scout out the intended climb.
Having been in the area before, I had a specific 35-foot high pinnacle in mind. It is not accessible by any means other than 5th class climbing. The uphill face looks like an obvious line. While Dad and Trish finish lunch, I climb halfway up the pinnacle, find good rock and start placing a protection bolt. Allan and mudworm then arrive. After the bolt and lunch are finished, the rest of our party arrives, including Vicki and Katie.
Most of what I've done with my Dad is mountaineering. (Last year, we did the mountaineer's route on Whitney in a day and a half.) He needs to re-learn how to belay, so I show him how to put on his harness and re-instruct him and he gets it very quickly.
With Dad belaying, I start climbing and quickly reach the bolt. The obvious crux of the climb is right above. Typical of a new pinnacles climb, the rock is a little loose. A short pause and then several moves of 5.6 (including a high step) quickly put me 5 feet above the bolt where the angle eases. I decide that a second protection bolt is not necessary. I run the climb to the summit.
Once on the summit, I take off my shirt to enjoy the nearly 80-degree weather. It takes some time to drill the summit anchors, but I'm pleased once they're done. Eight inches of chain on one and a Fixe ring hanger on the other, in good rock and perfectly equalized. Now it's Dad's turn.
Dad puts on his shoes which are tight. He hasn't worn them since I took him up Snake Dike several years ago. I have no idea how Dad will do since he has never done any steep climbing. Although the just-established route is "only" 5.6, the crux involves a bulge which is steep, at least relative to anything Dad has done.
It is actually amusing to watch Dad climb because he completely trusts the rock. Actually, the rock is fairly sound. But, we are, after all, climbing at Pinnacles. I wince as Dad steps on some of the larger knobs with no care or concern. He has none of the innate knowledge of Pinnacles rock which is shared by veteran climbers; no caution at all.
At first, Dad climbs awkwardly, but after a few moves, he starts to remember the hang of things. Quickly, he is up at the bolt which he unclips. The bolt is on a bit of a headwall and the crux is getting beyond and over the headwall. He is not quite sure what to do since he hasn't made moves like these on any other climbs. I ask him if he wants me to give him some beta. "What's beta?" "Coaching." "Sure, of course." I tell him that he's got to move over the headwall by moving his left foot high onto a lower angle section of rock. He needs to look out for the rock quality and carefully place his foot. The hard part will be getting his body weight over his foot, but, once he does, he should be able to move up from there. Quickly, he's clear on the moves, although I'm not sure he has the necessary flexibility. But, I'm wrong. He's a little hesitant doing the moves, but once he has done them, he continues up, reaches the lower angle section and quickly gains the summit. Dad is a little nervous about standing on the summit and so he poses for photos sitting down. We are both tickled that he climbed without falling.
Two generations down, one to go.
Katie is a little reluctant. She is having fun with Jaime. But, Dad and I want her to do the route, hopefully without falling. This would make a perfect three-generation first ascent. Also, although Katie has climbed a fair amount, she has a strong fear of heights and sometimes gets nervous. We use a little bribery, and Katie puts on her harness and shoes. My daughter, Katie, is not only drop-dead beautiful, she is also thin and limber. She is a competitive gymnast. She has flexibility that I can only envy. However, she is only 4 foot 10 and so sometimes reach can be an issue.
We put Katie on belay and she also quickly climbs up to the height of the bolt. Here, Katie hesitates a bit. She sees what moves she has to do, but she is very nervous. She starts to freeze up a little bit, but the whole crowd encourages her. Because of her height, Katie has to figure out her own way to do the moves. Several times, she starts upward and then moves back down. Eventually she puts her left foot up to the same height as her shoulder and then gradually stands up on it. Several more moves bring her to the slab section of the climb and then she reaches the summit. She's done it - and with no falls. Like Dad, Katie is a little nervous about standing on the summit so we are satisfied with photos with her sitting.
After our ascent, our friends do various combinations of leads and top ropes of the route. Consensus is 5.6. Dad, Katie and I discuss a name and eventually come up with: Young Generations. It fits. Three generations from the same family on the first ascent. Maybe a first in Pinnacles climbing history. No falls. It's not 5.11, but we've had lots of fun.
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Thanks for reposting that Brad. I read it a long while back when we were all posting back stories and didn't remember anything except what you said about your dad trusting the rock. A good story.
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I started the second 100 Sunday with Brad, Joel and Gavin. We hiked up near the Balconies Bumps first, so Gavin could onsight The Back Nine 5.10b** while we still had a chance of some sunshine. Our other objective for the day was for Brad to validate Manatee 5.3 - a route Aaron and I had soloed the previous weekened behind Sub Three Pinnacle.
While Brad and Gavin did The Back Nine, I suggested The 800 Club to Joel. Joel led and I followed (I had already joyously onsighted it a few weeks ago). About the time I was halfway up and about ready to unclip the second bolt, a condor flew in and landed on the summit just across from Joel at the belay anchors. Luckily I was at a stance where I could get my camera out and try to get a few shots.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cGmVIzRqvo_bLllwKhZfIJyU1KAXuOz-V24G2S08OJXsZh8nBvgno0iapIAOqhLcDzO-BB0WLxAXAML8imKqSz4OPjZcbTIClvJUo7NatoCGHF5Qk766gLcKyyItEzr2ZofFgWyciVWX9VrIHH-E0P=w732-h606-no?authuser=0)
Moments later this giant took off and swooped down right over me!
Munge, Mucci, a friend (help me out here guys), Fabrizio, and Amanto arrived a short while later and joined in the fun.
We saw three more condors a little later - here are two of them swooping between some bumps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f0vB-4cgRpC8Rd9t7OC8ihqgDH60ku18AydSNxEptA3EKrexaszLQZ3e2Fd6AqsVpQkllopolb_64vZjD0jok2g9RdrKsH5JQY1rBOy34MovEvG-kIi1c2IH1cjF8wOlzyjePCjSQ5rjylx5vLkKDH=w672-h625-no?authuser=0)
Brad and I headed over to the Towers while Gavin and Joel went to climb Cover Girl.
Brad validated Manatee and then he showed me how to descend from a couple of the routes I hadn't tried last weekend.
101st onsight Sub Three Pinnacle 5.4R
Notice Brad at the bottom of the pic getting ready to act as my rappel anchor for a Pinnacles rappel - thanks Brad!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2qBEA1rsAhjxw1Fd3BJL8gdGEVBkJm9ZaVvk9aclaYFmVRjA9MhJ42lGaEYHbuCn-MKlJM1tRwLczeWN1y4VGfQkwQF3YFViwnTZ62hHywVmP4kbqK44hxdb-3q-0FtVx1IG10C_zNzvCvNTOj1ZV=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Brad also helped me with the descent from Tower Four - a 270 degree rappel. I learned some excellent techniques and soaked up some other good knowledge. We explored around the Towers a little bit and then headed back down to meet the crew - GREAT DAY!!!
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OK, why don't you update this thread with your current numbers (likely your last-ever numbers, since once they put you in that straightjacket you won't be climbing in 103 degree heat any more).
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OK, why don't you update this thread with your current numbers (likely your last-ever numbers, since once they put you in that straightjacket you won't be climbing in 103 degree heat any more).
I wriggled my hand out of the straightjacket. 145 as of yesterday :)
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You know, I actually think you should keep up this climbing-in-the heat nonsense. If you do enough routes, we'll be able to do that FA you and I were looking at (up higher) as your 200th or 250th route. That would be fun.
Temps are cooling just as we are heading down the Sierra East Side. We'll grab a few Alabama Hills routes as part of the trip.
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You know, I actually think you should keep up this climbing-in-the heat nonsense. If you do enough routes, we'll be able to do that FA you and I were looking at (up higher) as your 200th or 250th route. That would be fun.
Temps are cooling just as we are heading down the Sierra East Side. We'll grab a few Alabama Hills routes as part of the trip.
That would be fun. I still know of quite a few shady routes at Pinns that can be hit early - we don't mind half days.
I have 63 onsights in the Hills after being there only 4 times :)
Hope you get some good climbing in there. Mtn Project has a pretty good top 50 list.
Looks like high 80's to low 90's for this coming week in the Hills. Spur 7*** and Bananarama 8****are awesome and sunny early - although you might want stuff harder than 8 - Ankles Away 8****is right around the corner from there and is the only other 4 star 8 - and should be shady early.
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Add 9 more onsights over the last two days - I'll do a TR tomorrow. 154 :)
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Brad asked what the count was when we were visiting last night. 158 :)
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wowo
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with Elephant Crack and the three yesterday it's up to 162 - long weekend coming up next and a list as long as my arm...
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JC, that's gotta be a record. I doubt anyone else has done that many climbs at Pinnacles in that short of a time.
it took me years to even get how many I have, and most of those aren't even onsights.
#crushing it
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JC, that's gotta be a record. I doubt anyone else has done that many climbs at Pinnacles in that short of a time.
it took me years to even get how many I have, and most of those aren't even onsights.
#crushing it
that's a "feel good" fer sure - thanks for feedback - I just love doing new stuff!
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Yep, crushing it is a good way to say it. Let's see what happens when it's actually Pinnacles season ;)
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166 :)
We won't be going this coming weekend as it is KC's 50th!
I told her she should lead #50 in the guidebook for her bday but she declined...it is a 5.8 gear lead.
AAC weekend coming up after that - if the fires and smoke clear...
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OK, John, you've clearly become a Master of Mud. Your climbing proves it and so too does you participation here. So, here's a question (maybe we should have a betting pool?):
Which one will J.C. hit first, 200 Pinnacles routes climbed, or 1,000 posts to this forum?
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OK, John, you've clearly become a Master of Mud. Your climbing proves it and so too does you participation here. So, here's a question (maybe we should have a betting pool?):
Which one will J.C. hit first, 200 Pinnacles routes climbed, or 1,000 posts to this forum?
Thanks Brad.
If you're deciding how to bet I have 171 onsights :)
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Thanks Brad.
If you're deciding how to bet I have 171 onsights :)
Any other routes that you've led clean, but not onsight? 'Cause you've "done" those routes too ;)
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And John, where does Fungusamongus fit on you schedule? Now that's an exciting route.
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Any other routes that you've led clean, but not onsight? 'Cause you've "done" those routes too ;)
Elephant Rock Reg Rte - I made the mistake of "being nice" and followed Aaron on that one - then went back another day so KC could climb it.
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And John, where does Fungusamongus fit on you schedule? Now that's an exciting route.
KC says no way on that one. Maybe you and I could go do it some time. There are a number of routes I want to go back and do on the WF - we have only done Cat and Mouse.
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make that 172 - I completed my last onsight on Tuff Dome yesterday - Tuff Dome Traverse 5.6R.
This was a great way to almost die of a heart attack before lunch. I haven't hooped and hollered at the top of a route in quite some time. When I started screaming toward the top and KC and Rosie asked me what was happening - I said I was having a knob-gasm after gaining/grabbing a joy knob near the exit moves in the runout...
leaving my gear...little did I realize the fun was just beginning :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eZ-Mhkmt_4TkK_KN7qY8z83V4uxPfl_GkiN7jft1QcbEWL-XxMlY_7qWpJgzt-_Ej69aalPF9g_OfG-Rid2zm1RKWYyO65jECBWBiAv3f6RcFwLtIGGYMQcumItpgVjwqed3M3CMVnRKpzYHpztoK2=w450-h600-no?authuser=0)
bolt 1 - you gotta be kidding?! FA 1973 - better have yer bold on when you step away from this POS
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d-_zH6OcRLozKkCwmd8fG4EojgEKU-pQwI76d1kTYS7MY3sj6AHGmT3AvHckkI7OKwFEapYlSQm2mLf-LMUos3XDcRH2B5t1QzBnmF8U0MtgakdP2wQ14mtGvEaUmO6_lKsAGXhxsMABZSr-d0CWwB=w400-h418-no?authuser=0)
beyond this POS there is another just like it - but thankfully it is only about a foot away from a modern smc on a star dryvin - neither of which is showing any rust. now run it out to this (last bolt on the route)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fuURhhcT5obPF4Egn_nIx3hWzKoVC4Fla8yOEYuhwAb_SDW6Pmt2g0jKQydH1Q72LFytgXB9jZAhcjGX2CRxJj6XwoYsjF_COfoN9K9Q9BsyIgd7zKLwgvgqIJHqqBSQIRc09I3MSFNwUeLvfBerYb=w350-h529-no?authuser=0)
and run it out to the top while carefully picking and choosing your holds and praying to the Gods of choss...
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That route scared me - I recall leading it with Dave Harden as a belayer/follower. I drew the topo the same day I led it. I recall having no confidence in the bolts. I don't remember anything else about it though.
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That route scared me - I recall leading it with Dave Harden as a belayer/follower. I drew the topo the same day I led it. I recall having no confidence in the bolts. I don't remember anything else about it though.
No worries. Thanks for sharing. I was just curious why the old bolts/hangers aren't all the same unless FA'ers are like Santa Cruz contractors - they just use whatever hardware they happen to have in the bolt bag that day...that star dryvin and smc are obviously fairly new as neither had any rust - or could those be stainless?
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They used what West Marine had in stock.
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I think I lead that the best way possible. By a full moon. That way I could not see the ground. It was scary at night, cannot imagine leading during the day.
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a couple of real comedians! both good for a laugh with best in show going to Mud :)
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with best in show going to Mud Smiley
That's why we keep him on the forum. The good looks are long gone....
I'd be up over 500 if I could count repeated routes!
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Everyone knows I am the best looking guy here.
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I was before my hair fell out, likely due to leading that route on Tuff.
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Mungie, did we lead that route the day we clean up on the high peaks (my 1st try @ Piglet)..Jan 97?
I can't remember.
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Everyone knows I am the best looking guy here.
damn handsome
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Got out for Veteran’s Day to the Smokestack and added two more onsights - now at 174.
KC was feeling a bit under the weather but was a good sport about it all.
I thought for sure she would be cussing me as she followed the Regular Route 5.3R.
This climb is full of surprises since you cannot clearly see what you are getting into from the ground.
FA 1957=big cajones :) I couldn't resist taking a pic of the original summit anchors.
It was a battle of wits, brush and rock. Another one that’s definitely not for beginners.
Past the steep, wide crack after battling the bush.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eV0d0lP399BcEeENQft5J7c9ATO9ohZHnROSErbwrRpCiR8-VS-lOZtm_95f835EIqX388NBB8srv5-C9afW9f1LKIiX2D-oKUBFhEelfT1paryPE1_WqA7pykmcBNvGQVxZ4GiOH-cpSp9AX5bkgX=w500-h375-no?authuser=0)
The reward was condors coming in for a visit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fzHMEC0Le1mdQK_iIiJOQiHsSUU_2lxR2eQzaxBN2LMV6RrlPInyTUG1IHlesAEfblnlgTjgioCFVtk4A_ge09i6V1WgD7rIHutXGbASt1SNjjmxcNkIN6jz_fX36IBeLfoBIxOPeiyw0avY0YRmoP=w600-h537-no?authuser=0)
Repeatedly…
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d3HudgD6YwLctz-_2WRlzOqv49XCcFe8v1fIBdwRNDbx5qrdDLMTMtH19JSWiD0TQrMItsKM58TJzyBGSukkJW5TYsydT881PSbXWqmKZpdQXwAhFHdL0BZw0ZLPGZkIVy0YRTJ8frrUuP90KMjnWu=w500-h455-no?authuser=0)
Then they landed on a big flake…
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c0uJSfkTR0J_w9rU882rq4TEIJpEgsGBELbmAD2GlOiD088l84yfJNsIXuo2oy6aJA2Qba0wLtbQf3HxwzQP15cibC1UQFkSBdbbvdvDHrYBzgPoi2z39Mkma1PicsE3SN5hE9UTlidCdZ5X5njiyc=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
License to thrill…KC makes a Clean Sweep 5.8*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cd2eG93_Rs1QjVOAvXm252jUucpCHg9ApGEG1-FFRNEI-NMO3Mf8LEpMyyXZORF0oqe-bWQ_D54QMSlFY2nuo3atNJKGTycMbMtNCgvTLOHmH50i3y7u5YlawnZRx8H1dWXt0Yd--lFKbkj-2dvhLD=w500-h375-no?authuser=0)
Some folks were stopped on the road on the way out so we stopped to take a peek at their furry little friend…
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cjonUMkbTZNZDulD_YHAnruyGdAA0WncBB2uL_I_hKNN8aHzQ51nJ12-Uadsq8mGNjtiXS2a53IpCOfqsr6TY457tLJFYwGwpp6onoJrbgBWMHwyQig0C8t9qNSq3Dzw6zQC_uE30wPCxhl0tLhk-4=w400-h327-no?authuser=0)
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So you give my TR no love and then jack my thread Adam? Just for that I am going to have to go climb something using only my aliens! :)
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KC was feeling a bit under the weather but was a good sport about it all.
This seems to be the season. So many people around me are sniffling and sneezing. Kudos to the good sport!
I love the condors! Remember them being very curious birds (thus cute too).
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Thanks mudworm :)
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So you give my TR no love and then jack my thread Adam? Just for that I am going to have to go climb something using only my aliens!
I'm a huge supporter of Aliens. I have many on my rack.
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I know it's not supposed to be about the #'s but...I love #'s...
The FA of S Curve put me at 175 in the Pinns.
The FA's and other climbs in the Hills put me at 75 there last weekend.
What are the odds those #'s will sync up again?
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I think I'll go knock out Rare Ice, Squareblock Sockhop and Slicker with Liquor tomorrow...
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I think I'll go knock out Rare Ice, Squareblock Sockhop and Slicker with Liquor tomorrow...
Yeah, do that. Then you'll have a hollow spot above your thighs and below your back.
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I think I'll go knock out Rare Ice, Squareblock Sockhop and Slicker with Liquor tomorrow...
Can I join? I'm at 97 Pinnacles climbs. It would be cool to break 100 with a real Master of Mud!
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ah, slicker with liquor. For full value you need to do that in the rain.
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Agreed, has to be raining, freezing, and there must be another story for the other climb to match our seasons, no?
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What goes: "ha ha ha ha ha...... CLUNK?"
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Can I join? I'm at 97 Pinnacles climbs. It would be cool to break 100 with a real Master of Mud!
Funny - I didn't think you could count that high or do the complicated math.
Is that real or REAL?
Suggesting a name change from Atomizer to Instigator :)
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Yeah, do that. Then you'll have a hollow spot above your thighs and below your back.
You forgot the one between my ears :)
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Funny - I didn't think you could count that high or do the complicated math.
Is that real or REAL?
Suggesting a name change from Atomizer to Instigator :)
Actually, I have not spent the time to count and I'd probably lose count or not even be sure of the stuff I did 15 years ago. The real number is probably in that ballpark of almost at 3 digits... thought I would instigate because your plan seemed like a joke.
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Added Toog's Terror 5.2R, Toog's Gallery - Direct Finish 5.9* and Are You Inexperienced Yesterday - current total 182.
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John belayed my lead of Flies on a Pile today. Sheesh... that's a once in a lifetime lead (one way or another!); a broken hold could easily result in 50 footer on it. A well named route too - it was filthy. That's the last 5.9 I hadn't done in the park.
Then he "led" Tiburcio's Upper (and did the mandatory down climb to finish).
While we were climbing we talked about The Inn Crowd and onsights. Obviously he didn't onsight The Inn Crowd, but he has led it clean. So how does that affect the list?
And what are the numbers now in this new year?
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Thanks for the belay yesterday brudda :)
186 is the current Pinns onsight total :)
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Thanks for the belay yesterday brudda :)
186 is the current Pinns onsight total :)
But how do you "count" The Inn Crowd for example? It's a nice route and you were a major part of it, but, because of how long it is and the need to drill, it was a multi-day effort and not an onsight. You've led it. Is it 187 routes, of which 186 were onsights (or some such numbers)?
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188 then - of which 186 were onsights :)
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188 then - of which 186 were onsights :)
Impressive.
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I noticed from my climbing log that I did my 100th onsight the weekend before the closures last year.
Brad belayed me on my 101st in the Crowley Towers on MLK Day.
I'd have easily made 200 this past weekend had I not been bitten by the FA bug a few months ago - no regrets coyote - wouldn't trade that experience for anything.
I'll need to find something easy for my next onsight - something I can absolutely MURDER - onsight 187 :)
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BATTLE HAMPSTER
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BATTLE HAMPSTER
Josh - appreciate the suggestion but 5.9 and easy don't naturally go together for me - I did Supply Side Hamster, Hamsternomics and Crampster but didn't get to that one - did Spanky instead - skeery!
Will have to go back to the east side someday :)
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Two words
Battle Hamster
short crux
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BATTLE HAMPSTER
Two words
Battle Hamster
short crux
So let me get this straight...you guys want me to MURDER Battle Hamster?
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Do it! Fun route
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Kill it.
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Kill it.
solo, like only Mr Mud would
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Kill it.
beauty in a true and simple statement.
++
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Entertaining read on the Tuff Dome Traverse. I was up there with a large group over 25 years ago, I remember because I still lived in Socal. We had a big lunch party, more ropes than you could hang from El Cap, all sorts of fun and goodies. So Dave was leading the regular route to get a bunch on top. Knowing this little conga line was going to take some time I decided to go up the traverse. I think it was my third or fourth trip to Pinnacles , but I loved the environment, even though the rock was not what I was used to. I remember what I think were 1/4" bolts, looking like hell, but I just ran up it thinking it is what it is. When I got to the top I thought 'Well that was a long way sideways on funny rock, I better watch this place'. I think there were two bolts after the shallow crack or lieback. Did not look like a good place to fall.
Well sure enough, my follower unclipped the last piece, took a step and let fly. At his request, I lowered him. Couldn't understand why he did not want to finish. When I got down, he was a bloody mess. Strawberried from elbows to ankles. I realized then, I better not treat this place like the smooth face climbs of Suicide and JT.
I'm sure I would not lead that today and only follow with long pants. Glad to hear the bolts are getting upgraded or have been upgraded.
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great story
RCS trip?
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Topanga Reptile...long pants are a good bet.
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Wow, you've done a ton here! I'm trying to just have 100 different routes under my belt by the end of summer. Great work, that's awesome that you get out so much and do what you love!
-Andrew
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199 as of this weekend.
Looks like that***200th will have to wait if the forecast is accurate.
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199 as of this weekend.
Looks like that***200th will have to wait if the forecast is accurate.
You are still skyrocketing through the numbers, but, it can wait. It sure would be nice to get some rain...
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Went to try and finish some hanger replacement today but the damn bolt still wouldn't come loose - even with a bigger handle - I think they're meant to stay - got 3 out of 4 done (will post on RB thread when I get time). Consoled myself with #200 5.6X
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Mr Mud needs to get back on the program we had designed to put him back in the lead as the most routes.
He'd need to climb 3days a week down there and do at least 3-4 new routes each day for just 52 weeks. That would give him 450-500 routes...+ or -.
Then he mentioned this thing called work. Sheesh.
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I need to close out the 10's and do a couple of 12's. That is my new goal, to see how many new 10's I can do each year.
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Consoled myself with #200 5.6X
Congrats man!
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yes, congrats
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Congrats man!
yes, congrats
Hey thanks ;)
Here's a couple shots from the X games. It says there's no protection, but with a little creative thinking I had things rigged to keep from going "all the way". Then the trick was not to exit stage right...or exit at all for that matter...
Why it's X
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3coVhseObFesqD0UuQ8WzMhxB7AVV6NhQnLuqZXMDvVOhJmvJpWlJIrHSg9eNtuIjI074qoBGryqrwviRTuG1xhAR3DitaGS4nYCoJNGZWwAXlmNVXwkItUWKcqriNr_j8Xs_0ucGLOeoWmIph1QMqC=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
Cool view of Little Sister from the summit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eu3_q5xV7z4wUqi7-JGQoFksaka_fzm6uIopO_rxd2LnOaBFcwPVXm5H8XloP_Vf713RwNaFajF0jYB9wpo7yw-SPtISHkWj-JabTb5ywc3x8MyTPfJa82kw45goRjWbm58oeqdiJ3lARW-NYm3DST=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
From the summit I could also look past 4th Sis N Rib to the Flatiron - what KC and I affectionately refer to as "the scene of the crime"- where it all began :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eTFe0nT4Q9rxV4SoA206c_Z2BwzPddcyrmlAaZZQpGasTVK7CxtMJUiipXssf3gzH7IJRpMYIfxJEwWPETLZt0gxh8yaH38z9y-5zEqCQDy9shJORTJMak1fzA-zK_pbRQsBJbqBrTEG8Kc15BlJdW=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Busted over 200 yesterday with two onsight first ascents.
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JC crunched off two footholds in a row and had me thinking he was going to bust his asp on snake charmer, but he sent it like a pro not a gumby.
No Darwin awards, just fun. Except that Brad has staged a brutal, yet to be placed, stem placed water-chute bolt.A chute is a vertical or inclined plane, channel, or passage through which objects are moved by means of gravity. Resist the gravity.
Kathy tried a harder bouldering start to snake eyes, many times, How did she finally go, right or left?
Rachel, my daughter, established a new high point for her outdoor climbing.
Tricia is the real deal, a pro.
Gavin sauntered by for a moment.
Things I learned;
When in doubt, shove a cam in it.
Everyone wants some traffic cone.
My 14 year old is bonding with a cool group of people in a way I did not expect.
Yesterday was the best of days.
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Yesterday was the best of days.
Agreed.
Can't wait to get back out there and start work on Forked Stick - although we may decide on a name with a little more bite!
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Climb it with one of two lawyers I can think of and call it Forked Tongue Poison. >:D
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Climb it with one of two lawyers I can think of and call it Forked Tongue Poison. >:D
Mmmmm...Tonto not like name...maybe ask Tarzan or Frankenstein make better name...
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Well, you asked for more bite.
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Mmmmm...Tonto not like name...maybe ask Tarzan or Frankenstein make better name...
Old SNL skit - very funny.
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Well, you asked for more bite.
Deadly Venom, Black Mamba, The Fang if the other lines are hard.
I think Brad's should be Pit Viper since you go up into and then climb out of a pit.
That one is definitely going to have some bite!
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While we are counting:
I think I'll finish this season with a Pinnacles route count of 875 to 880. Of course that is only redpoint or better (not J.C.'s standard of onsight).
I'm down to three routes at Pinns that I haven't done that are easier than 5.10. That number is likely to go up before it goes back down though (since two of the three are on Goat Rock, which is closed, and the third is a route that scares the crap out of me).
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Busted over 200 yesterday with two onsight first ascents.
But what's the total count? It seems like not including The Inn Crowd (for example) in your counts is silly.
202 onsights and?
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But what's the total count? It seems like not including The Inn Crowd (for example) in your counts is silly.
202 onsights and?
Still +4 and not likely to change.
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Still +4 and not likely to change.
So the count is 206 routes done in good style (redpoint or better)?
And I guarantee that the "+4" number will change. Don't forget that now-closed area I told you about for next season. There will be at least three FAs there that will be long enough and/or hard enough that they aren't likely to be bolted in one push (or even in two pushes).
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what s the route that scares the crap out of you?
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So the count is 206 routes done in good style (redpoint or better)?
Correct.
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what s the route that scares the crap out of you?
Leading The Embarrassment of Riches.
As recently as one year ago I had six "sub-5.10" routes to do that scared the crap out of me. Embarrassment is the last one I still have to do. (The ones I've already done were Flake Don't Break - done with Gavin, Icarus and Pigeon Crack, both done with Cobbledick, and Arch - Up the Center and Flies on a Pile, both done with J.C.)
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I think you will do fine. You have been on much worse
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I think you will do fine. You have been on much worse
As much as you've climbed with me, and as much as you've climbed at Pinns, that comment is a huge help.
I hope to get it this season (that would have to be in April).
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It is nothing like fly's on a Pile, which I have not done but have heard a bit about it.
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Leading The Embarrassment of Riches.
As recently as one year ago I had six "sub-5.10" routes to do that scared the crap out of me. Embarrassment is the last one I still have to do. (The ones I've already done were Flake Don't Break - done with Gavin, Icarus and Pigeon Crack, both done with Cobbledick, and Arch - Up the Center and Flies on a Pile, both done with J.C.)
I was just talking with Kelly about this route and it is deffinately on my short list. Kelly recommends bailing at the rap station and not topping out.
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I was just talking with Kelly about this route and it is deffinately on my short list. Kelly recommends bailing at the rap station and not topping out.
Yep, he's told me that too. But have you done the route if you bail off early?
Keep in mind that he was very careful to make sure that I put the route in the book as going to the top, and not to the Melvin rap station - to the top is the "real" route.
I won't consider that I've done it if I don't do all of "it."
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once your at the rap anchors you've done the meat of it.
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once your at the rap anchors you've done the meat of it.
I've heard that.
And Aaron, what I wrote is how I look at it, my own sense of style if you will. Others may not feel the same way.
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I figure I've done something in great style if I get back to the beer under my own steam.
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Crux Luv took these shots of me on pitch 1 of Going the Wong Way
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e20MkiDMF8DdqgdK0fpPWs01JMpLvWvlqoL4mU2RQ3Z0dfJiYoEHOXwc9DW5pkYde8xNHPLyQUvif4zZtBEpp86NCwwExXuDm3AqexhYidxkEIUBsSsseV_TOKmi5GGmKRX-Ql838IdCbUtecgo5YK=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fZw2QM5mPYezitWGwp5n0SLC1PIIZtTKaJUnnUrjAPwqRxdq2XiJQdf8HwzW4mAk-anaypXnE64vJUZ1mlsCJx2vEo98Dg3pWgPkLixxDDx4OGVdmP7dvbj_9OQgUWWcGLKiGOXlVJAZJfLvQ0GSMP=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d0HmCPwIq553iZ9Gsi9uwHaUyswJ7Cu_f1zM6wNfbroneWv0OqJ2iaqT0A8WYGzguKcvzbt9iQSu4EpMB-FA21ZNvQRHywTDRAeHCEjLj_BMou8i_0RiqeiCvIXx2PIwpJO1_tB4tY4Ux6pKHfoyWn=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Really fun watching you - great job!
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Silly wabbit, you went the wong way.
Nice pics.
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Clink, would you happen to know if the "Wong" way finishes around the back up the regular 5th Sister route, or takes a hand traverse back onto the south side? Big cams would protect, but it's got to be 5.8/5/9. I've done it a couple of times the first way, but not the second.
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back side? I thought it went like JC climbed it. Step up onto the shoulder (south facing arête) after topping the streak. Least that's what I recall.
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Waldo and Munge,
I wouldn't know much about the sister's backsides, the views on the front side are better in my opinion.
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Clink, would you happen to know if the "Wong" way finishes around the back up the regular 5th Sister route, or takes a hand traverse back onto the south side? Big cams would protect, but it's got to be 5.8/5/9. I've done it a couple of times the first way, but not the second.
Waldo - you can see the pedestal and the "improbable" looking traverse/crack in the first of those 3 pics I posted. It is very deceiving/unlikely looking. I had 3 cams in the crack. That is definitely the way and I found it to be quite fun. It is much better protected than the 5.6X route - although I also found a way to "protect" that one to a small degree - enough to keep you from going "all the way". I would give the GTWW route a star.
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Waldo and Munge,
I wouldn't know much about the sister's backsides, the views on the front side are better in my opinion.
I thought that was in the other thread.
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I thought that was in the other thread.
Nice one Dmud!
I added a redpoint today after Brad and I finished the bolts on a new 5.9.
I think it may have been 10a for KC - it's slabby and thin with stretched-out footwork and reachy.
Yer gonna dig what we did clink :)
I got the first bolt in on a new one that may go as an onsight.
I downclimbed from the bolt to preserve that possibility.
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Banged out a few more over the weekend - Where's Dave, Both Watchman with Adam and Jury Duty with Brad. I'm going to count Topsy Turvy as a route done but not an onsight - even though it was mostly jumaring. I think the reverse Houdini and fact that I had to be lowered kind of negated that one - not to mention all the instruction from Brad that I evidently wasn't listening to!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2Za6ZdDzse2MV3yM4XTIdIjEavw9ZHDSMa6VK_XnAjbwnSn45HIK3tJ2TsJ40I8tmSrn2TAuFsh4nXW8uOsU4PP5MbbgZmMv1JYDEwSgXSZ7Hz_iQA-1SkaG_AJdOXFM-jI1KDq8292POOy8WZFLJ=w596-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Oh snap, jugs!
Let's go aid some shiz!
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Got The Knight's Watch finished today and also got a sweet onsight of Heaven's Gate.
It seemed a little warm when we got to the base of the first climb but there was a nice breeze up high to drill the last bolt and again when straddling the arête on Heaven's Gate. Turned out to be a great day :)
JC tops out on The Knight’s Watch after getting the last bolt in
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fq64s_nuSkoG127JzD87kHkEhRZS6Zt82ueA_TB58zCJyPhIfJ4Q8mZcdats8h5JL71D0miucdWu7rQabXypSfnNF6pSgsGoo00D6KJfKMR7KQKT8B1umakFd4L5FKwqm9Eqoj5hzJnNVGRLfubJBf=w764-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC tops out on The Knight’s Watch
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3car6Wq_4Gi_Mbkd6Vrf6vaCWymUHkglu-2Kh7TXIgUXoxy2feLpOECyO_x0NVcBg0R4meoLRdd15t8C6RlC3gIAD84Dz8p6MUo2lAugO5hr-6HiVCXFo2AuD6uwRGGG04nYlCkOKBBSfiPOsWJx3iU=w600-h574-no?authuser=0)
JC craning his neck for a “holy crap!” moment while looking up the arête on Heaven’s Gate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cYECn7DO92to9SAztO4es53y5KX1Od8risw7-RlpcDoO0SGjiaukcRYSP1-xxtiUG4OxcIhd1DMDYkm6UEi5ivEglF8WiyL0FNdQof_yo-QFP4kDQdtA-UFbTfakmX-aNCI_Zmcwwz_ryiJiajNLUK=w509-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC tops out on Heaven’s Gate and getting the buh-geezus scared out of her :lol:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fcU38S2s2Q6jkf0lgNQUbcIg8GUcCmGb1xFN7IrtWBtCnJOkzrxJ1Xb1kMNuGVUwQjrBxFhC4QRYxKSuZT0L7GjkG1EaE6JhtvZPvI7x16h6jMcnr3pcFMM8fy6eMJ3BlRdb5OtEbz5rZeIBp9O7OF=w638-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Nicely done. Good numbers.
I assume the Crux of The Knight's Watch was down by the low bolts at 5.8?
And I haven't been on Heaven's Gate since we put it up. Are all the bolts as "unrusty" as the one in your photo? That looked pretty rust free.
Gorgeous up here, although we've been forced to climb on good quality granite.
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Bolt needs to be moved out to the arête.
Still a **** route.
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Nicely done. Good numbers.
I assume the Crux of The Knight's Watch was down by the low bolts at 5.8?
And I haven't been on Heaven's Gate since we put it up. Are all the bolts as "unrusty" as the one in your photo? That looked pretty rust free.
Gracias.
Correct - toughest moves down low - KC concurs 5.8.
Bolts on HG look good.
Bolts 5 and 6 seem oddly located - tricky getting to 6 on lead but still doable unless you're a shrimpo.
Should get at least a star for position and exposure - nice line - induced a "gulp" response when moving past bolt 3 - shoulda anticipated the angled bend there with a long runner. Definitely the superior line for getting on top of lil' sis.
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Bolts 5 and 6 seem oddly located - tricky getting to 6 on lead but still doable unless you're a shrimpo.
Yeah, that's what Bratton is saying - it wasn't oddly located when we placed the bolt, but, alas, the holds have changed (I know, SHOCKING).
Is that bolt number 6 in good shape? Is it worth moving it?
I may have to do that route again one of these days.
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Yeah, that's what Bratton is saying - it wasn't oddly located when we placed the bolt, but, alas, the holds have changed (I know, SHOCKING).
Is that bolt number 6 in good shape? Is it worth moving it?
I may have to do that route again one of these days.
All the bolts appear to be in good shape. Kat asked me if I'd ever repeat the route and I certainly would. Once I was on the arête it didn't make sense to move left to get to those bolts - it was more fun staying on the arête. There are still a lot of holds on both sides. 5 is a bit of a reach and 6 is way out. I hung off my right hand - from a good hold on the right side of the arête and stepped onto a prominent knob with my left foot on the left side of the arête - stetching to my limit to make the clip for 6. I imagine that knob I had my left foot on may have been part of the stance. You guys probably stood on that with your right foot and maybe whatever you used for the left foot is gone. I was afraid Kat would have difficulty getting the draw off 6 but she made it look easy.
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The route has changed.
It was fun yarding on the knob. But now you use the Arête.
We could add back the key hold back by getting a hold from the gym. The stud would have to be a glue in.
Just paint the hold tan.
Ask tom if he has an old hold.
Edited for more humor.
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The route has changed.
It was fun yarding on the knob. But now you use the Arte more.
So the route has improved.
Was my yellow sling still there?
Musta been a yard ape that tore the knob off :)
Did you sling a knob with yellow? I didn't see anything.
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Yellow sling was on top.
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Yellow sling was on top.
Anchor has been replaced (see rebolt thread). Two bolts with chains. Lead bolt on the 5.6R has also been replaced. I led up the 5.2R to the 5.6R a while back and it was fun - not as exciting as the arête but pretty cool from an old school perspective and definitely worth doing.
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Well, that proved decisively that I am not currently in shape for 5.11, granite cracks.
(But I'm closer after that burn than I was at this time yesterday.)
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random granite post?
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Kinda related to the post above:
...Gorgeous up here, although we've been forced to climb on good quality granite.
And not worth its own thread. Have to keep it short here - the forearms are throbbing ;)
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Have to keep it short here - the forearms are throbbing ;)
What's that? I can't hear you. My calves are screaming!
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the forearms are throbbing
Poor little granite man.
5.8 cracks would destroy me for starters.
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What about the right variation on the watchman JC? No on site?
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Jc is waiting for me to do the right side
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What are the final moves rated?
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10a mantel. Kind of like Stupendous Man.
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All right, all you "year-rounders" and early posters have me thinking about the imminent Pinns season. Even though it still seems early.
As we get rolling, could we get an update on J.C.'s numbers please? Feel free to include more than just yours Pinns information too. And, would you add in the amount of time you've been climbing? I'm prepared to be impressed again.
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Onsights redpoints
Pinnacles 218 8
Alabama Hills 85
Lover's Leap 8
SPH 63 5
Red Rocks 4
Castle Rock 3 1
ttl 381
Looks like the total done in good style is 395.
I did my first lead ever on 12-23-11 - at Pinns of course :) 2 years, 9 months and 2 days
Kind of embarrassed by how much I've slowed at Pinns but I had some set backs - physically and mentally.
On the plus side I got a bunch of new routes on the Pass - "shhhhhhhh...Pinns will hear you!"
and I got clink to stop bugging me about gettin' CRSPy in the mountains :)
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Dude, "slowing down" happens when you've done so many of the easy and/or easy to get to routes that you have to work harder to keep adding to the total. You have around that many now ;D
And BTW, I love your use of the phrase "in good style." Sounds like you're less wedded to the "onsights only" thing. That may be healthy.
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And I gotta get caught up to you at Alabama Hills.
Maybe this year the Young family can head to Thanksgiving by way of the pass and Highway 395 (with a couple days stop...). What are you doing for Thanksgiving J.C?
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Add another onsight to the list. Frothy Flake
Does this start look familiar to anybody? I wasn't sure it was the right way but I couldn't see any other choice that was even close to 4th class. Felt like easy 5th class to me and it's crappy rock.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fgLaFB_edmxIQ7U56Ln23biqTeT0jPiiE5hqk-pTDh2OhK7wzfjJiD7S4GtFI4k5LDEFiJG5QoUDANHUVGNJQ68xh2AgNqR1mlMS6wUQKgOkYaOc3MXl4id3H2dYIZLvRrny9fCvXEn7Q9e5rs7Q2Z=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
I need to go back with a trail photographer so I can replicate Brad's guidebook photo
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3caq2CpGndJD7-FXMIXIQRvSdnG9Og2QZj2q5eSbGUYFqc77l4Y81Wh7heGm2p-52vifG57hln9MPgkKu7-vAmUWZ8HWjiMpI2LMltybrQz-UutVMmexZmyw48MOFpe0z4VvUOyZUuM_-hEU455q729=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Always my favorite part of the day :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fMnntCqwMBqGKdFU2kvUKL-rgPBxbdrsMLBedQZ3cUKUr2H1wlYkaGOalNqjyvPp3hEpTtB32keZGqWpTe0XHo5StHjzlf0U1RLRcg9DdFM2xLk6PXcmLD8a2sPgQQjLgJDwOSImxm_PMUw_r8ZqbO=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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You damn fanatics keep working on this Pinnacles thing. Yer all a bunch of low life's who are starting to get me interested in the place for the season (but way too early).
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Is that cam upside down?
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You damn fanatics keep working on this Pinnacles thing. Yer all a bunch of low life's who are starting to get me interested in the place for the season (but way too early).
Brad hasn't seen the weekend forecast yet.
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Is that cam upside down?
It wasn't great when I placed it (only pointing slightly down) and then got discombobulated when I climbed past it.
A #5 might work. The 4 was too small so the only place for it was really too low - more of a mental piece :)
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Brad hasn't seen the weekend forecast yet.
mmmmm. Mongo like that forecast :)
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Brad can read you know.
That cam looks like a #3.5, not a #4 (unless someone has only pretty little new cams ::) )
Now I'm almost ready for the season to change. I had three routes up here (two 5.11a and one 5.11b) that I just had to get redpointed once the weather was cool. My favorite belayer went out with me this morning (damn she's good looking, and good luck too). It was downright perfect at 8,400 feet and things went just right. One more 11a to go ;D
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pics on sph.com or invalid!
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Congratulations
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Granite spewage spill.
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pics on sph.com or invalid!
No photos here or there. What, It's me and Vicki and the dogs; you want photos she manages to take of my ass while she's belaying? I didn't think so.
I wasn't even wearing short shorts.
We got a sprinkle of rain here last night.
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I wasn't even wearing short shorts.
?
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?
Clink, we have this thing up here called "elevation." Flatlanders sometimes don't understand it.
At this time of year, at "elevation" things are chilly. Sometimes there's wind too and it's actually cold.
Yesterday we were in a wind sheltered location, but it was still chilly enough to wear jeans.
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Good, I was afraid of nude pics of you sending granite 5.11s.
No further elaboration needed.
We have campsites in the Valley Fri and Sat.
JC, apologies for contributing to any desecrating of mud.
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Granite spewage spill.
Make that sewage - get this plutonic crap off my volcanic thread - this ain't SPH :)
and speaking of threads, who the he!! wears JEANS to climb? (sorry Waldo)
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We have campsites in the Valley Fri and Sat.
JC, apologies for contributing to any desecrating of mud.
Valley on traitor.
Your respect for the mud is much appreciated :)
although...you'll probably be missing a perfect Pinns weather weekend!