MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on November 26, 2012, 08:01:57 PM
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On a whim I put a couple of these together when someone asked me what they should climb at Pinnacles for their first time there. This was several years ago.
Pinnacles Tours
These are just collections of routes I've put together as a 'select menu' for what some folks may want to hit.
Pinnacles is a dangerous place to climb. You do so at your own risk, regardless of what is described here.
East Side
"Beginner's Tour" - Hit these if you want to hit the main classic east side easier climbs.
Rat Race - 5.7
Thrill Hammer - 5.8
Ordeal - 5.8
Swallow's Crack -5.6
Portent -5.6
Direct Route - Monolith 5.6
First Sister - 5.5-5.7
Nodal Line -5.6 R
Mr. Hugh G. Rection -5.8
*May want to reverse the order though and start at the top and work your way back to go from easiest to hardest.
"Moderate Plus Tour"
The above climbs, and add the following
The Wet Kiss - 5.9
Nailbox Crack - 5.8 to bolt belay
Jorgies Crack - 5.10a (first pitch. essentially a short crux section)
Stupendous Man -5.10a (pumpier with mantle crux too)
Limp at Last - 5.9
Wet Willie - 5.10a
Terranean Tango -5.10a (which is just a short version of Subterranean Tango)
Coyote Ugly - 5.9
Sound Chaser - 10a
"Moderate often overlooked lines tour"
NE Corner of Monolith -5.7
Piton Traverse Monolith - 5.5
When in doubt, run it out - 5.7 R/X (unless as a TR)
Japanese Water Torture - 5.7 R (unless as a TR)
"Looking for a Clue" - 5.7 R/X (unless as a TR)
Side Saddle - 5.7
West Face 4th Sister - 5.5
West Side
"Beginner's Tour" - Hit these if you want to hit the main classic west side easier climbs.
The Big Bad West - 5.4
Passion Play - 5.7
Elephant Crack - 5.7
Costanoan - 5.4 (multi pitch)
Rebecca's Sailing - 5.8
Tilting Terrace first pitch to "Cool Daze" 5.8
Crowley Tower #5 - second class route
Smiling Simian - 5.8
Sombrero - 5.8
Chockstone Dome - 5.3 to 5.7
Twinkle Toes Traverse - 5.5
Dos Equis - 5.8
Corona - 5.6
Old Original - 5.5 (multi pitch - high adventure quotient)
High Peaks
From the East Side Moderate tour of the High Peaks -
The Carousel (as a TR area for novices, otherwise just do the boulder problem called "A Trip to the Fair"
The Anvil 5.4 (if only for it's novel shape)
Pipsqueak Pinnacle - 5.5 and 5.8
The Unmentionable - 5.7
Photographer's Delight - 5.2
Flatiron - Regular Route 5.4 A1 or 10a
The Sponge 5.2 or 5.6, then TR the "Holes" route 5.6
Burgundy Dome Rappel Route 5.7 (but short)
Tuff Dome Regular Route 5.6
H & L Dome Regular Route 5.5
Bynum Spire Regular Route 5.2 and Rock Steady - 5.7
Dragon Fly Dome Regular Route 5.6 R
Cinder 5.7
Don Genaros Waterfall 5.4 (if it is dry, and you have time after doing the above)
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Want some unsolicited feedback?
If you are going by theme I'd separate by trad, bolted or mixed.
Many of the ratings are not current.
I don't think 5.10 is moderate and in many cases in my limited experience neither is 5.9
Definitely include the Regular Route on the Monolith.
Is beginner aimed at beginning climbers or just Pinns newbies?
The reason I ask is some of those beginner routes are pretty tough.
I love the Bullseye Derringer linkup for another multi pitch.
Alias Bandit Bench to Redline is another nice linkup.
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Say Mungie, these are great lists...
Add in a few more to the high peaks...
Piglet Pinnacle
St Val Mass
Egg Dome
Burgendy Rappel route
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Say Mungie, these are great lists...
Add in a few more to the high peaks...
Piglet Pinnacle
St Val Mass
Egg Dome
Burgendy Rappel route
Burgundy's on there.
Piglet? Why would you want to tell them about the best climb in the Monument?
Depending on your mood (evil grin) tell or don't that the start of St Val is a sandbag!
Which route(s) on Egg?
Where are the captions for your photos brah?
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The Exhibitionist
Gutter
Pistol Whipped
Gladiator
Nailbox Crack
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Hard Variation
Hawaiian Noises
Blister in the Sun
The Gag
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The Exhibitionist
Gutter
Pistol Whipped
Gladiator
Nailbox Crack
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Hard Variation
Hawaiian Noises
Blister in the Sun
The Gag
I'd guess the 'theme' of that grouping is 5.10s that are challenging, but Nailbox doesn't fit the theme, does it?
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Pinnacles Tours
Dude - you read my mind. Love it!
Printing...
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The Theme was kinda cool routes in a popular area that do not get a lot of traffic. The routes are all some what bold or have a challenging section. Routes are in order as you hike along the trail. I guess Hard Variation does not really fit.
Like your theme. I will modify/create the list for that theme.
EDIT:
Gladiator is also 5.11
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Challenging 5.10 Tour staying primarily in the Gulch but with a hike up the creek.
Wild Berry Crack
Pistol Whipped
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Rocket in my Pocket
Hawaiian Noises
Blister on the Sun
The Gag
Get a Grip
Love Line
Carpal Tunnel
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We used to talk about a "date" tour....so maybe you start at we Kiss?
then you end at POD or Denied...
Really honey all the climbs are named like this...honestly
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We used to talk about a "date" tour....so maybe you start at we Kiss?
then you end at POD or Denied...
Now that's pretty damn clever.
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or maybe end at SOB
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Both of you must be presupposing that the "date tour" includes a visit with or by a certain 5.8 which is located at The Back Door?
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Both of you must be presupposing that the "date tour" includes a visit with or by a certain 5.8 which is located at The Back Door?
More like the 5.10c -
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And why all of these names??? Really some insight is needed...even JimMC is guilty...so there has to be a theme.
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More like the 5.10c -
8)
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And why all of these names??? Really some insight is needed...even JimMC is guilty...so there has to be a theme.
yeah it is called the climbing mind
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My virgin mind does not get it.
Must have been an 80's thing.
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5.11 Eastside Roundup
Terranean Tango 5.10b
POD 5.11a
Foreplay 5.11b
Feed The Beast 5.11c
Deapoint 5.11a
Love Handles 5.11d
Sunwheel 5.11b
Melvin 5.11b
Between a Rock and a Hard Place 5.11b
Lithium 5.11b
Verdict 5.11b
Cosmos 5.11c
5.12
Tailspin 5.12a
Futureshock 5.12b
Cataract 5.12a
Druid 5.12b
Ranger Bolts 5.12a
Punguin Handshake 5.12a/b
Vigilante 5.12c
Hard as a Rock 5.12b
Tarantula 5.12?
Trial 5.12c
Forty Days of Rain 5.12c
The Original Eastside Mega Linkup, ten .10s and eleven .11s
Terranean Tango 5.10a
Hawaiian Noises 5.10c
POD 5.11a
Foreplay 5.11b
Richnak's Revenge 5.11a
Hard Variation 5.10c
Feed the Beast 5.11c
Cantalope Death 5.10c
Rocket in my Pocket 5.10d
Sunwheel 5.11b
Black Dagger 5.11d
Pearl Sheath 5.10b
Deadpoint 5.11a
Deadpoint 5.11d/10d
Stupendous Man 5.10a
Verdict 5.11b
Broken Arrow 5.10d
Cosmos 5.11c
Denied 5.10d
Pickpocket 5.11a
Angstroms Away 5.10a
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How's about a list called "Training Wheels" for the 5.0-5.3 routes.
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That would be something, all the 5.0 - 5.3 routes, this is potentially more scary than any of the lists i suggested above. How about a Pinns freesoloing circuit....
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You're right about that. The easier they are, the less protected they are.
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Chockstone Dome (reg route?) would have to be part of the Training Wheels list.
First half of First Sister could probably be included.
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Here's a "conditioning tour," for a day when you need exercise, you need some time outdoors, but you don't have a partner, and/or don't want to rope up:
Start on the East Side:
1. Hike up Bear Gulch to the reservoir. After reaching the dam, turn to the right and climb the class four route on the back side of Tiburcio's X;
2. Descend and move to the dam and then up the Chalone Peak Trail. Take this a short distance to The Sisters, move up to their north side and ascend Second Sister by way of one of the class four Northwest Chimney routes;
3. Descend back to the Chalone Peak Trail, continue a very short distance to the climber trail that leads to The Hand and The Frog. Go partway out this before moving left up the climber trail to Gertie's Pinnacle. Climb the class four North Side Chimney on this formation;
4. Return to the trail that leads to The Frog, hike to that formation and climb the class two South Side Shuffle;
5. Descend back to the creek that leads into the reservoir, but do not turn right to return. Instead, hike up toward Knuckle Ridge, continuing to Little Flatiron and ascend that (class four);
6. From Little Flatiron continue up the ridge toward Scout Peak. Continue past this formation to Possibility Pinnacle and a superb class three to a great summit;
7. Continue to the High Peaks Trail and then hike north on that to Spike's Peak. Climb Kermit (class four);
8. Return to the High Peaks Trail, move just a little further north and then leave to trail to ascend Frothy Flake (class four);
9. Return to the trail and move to Dragonfly Dome. Descend between this and Sidehorse to Egg Shell. Continue downhill on the west side of Egg Shell, cross country to The Citadel (with care and some study, this cross country route can be done with very little brush - I've done it three times). Climb the class four route on The Citadel's south side;
10. Descend and then move around to the north side of The Citadel. Take the climber's trail toward the West Side, but divert up and left to class four Penny Pinnacle;
11. Return to the climber's trail and take this to the Balconies Trail. Take this trail past The Flumes and almost to The Balconies before taking the climber's trail to Crowley Towers. Climb the class three Tower Two;
12. Move over to the class two Tower Five;
13. Descend back to the Balconies Trail. Take this to Smiling Simian. Climb the 5.0 Easy Route on this (the only class five on this tour).
Return to the Balconies Trail and take this to the Chalone Creek Trail which can be followed to the Chalone Creek maintenance area on the East Side. Continue back to the east side parking areas.
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^^^ when the closures are not in effect
damn, have you done that link up in a day before?
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That would be something, all the 5.0 - 5.3 routes, this is potentially more scary than any of the lists i suggested above. How about a Pinns freesoloing circuit....
this was one I enjoyed
Cleft up then down
Ordeal down Cleft, optional down Ordeal
Swallow Crack down Cleft
Wet Kiss Down Portent
Regular Route up then down
Direct up then down
Terrainian Tango down Direct or Regular
Upper Crust various depending on the day
Sisters various depending on the day
Nipple Jam
Rat Race
On occasion I would do additional routes on Discovery or go up to Marmot. But listed above was the basic circuit. Venturing out to outlying area’s was always interesting since the rock can be a bit more active. Rope soloing is a good option and makes for more diversity since getting down can be easier and there is a possibility of a catch.
@Brad I like your tour. Looks like fun is moremy speed at this point in time.
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Here's a "conditioning tour," for a day when you need exercise, you need some time outdoors, but you don't have a partner, and/or don't want to rope up:
THAT is by far the most awesome of all the lists!
Thanks for taking the time to put it together Brad.
Superstitous types can leave off one step.
I've done 1, 7 and 13.
Although I am okay with it, several of my partners probably would not want to downclimb some of those.
I guess they could carry the rope!
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I guess they could carry the rope!
She already does! :P
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She already does! :P
Let's go!!!
we'll call it the scramclimbsolofest
we might want to take an inflatable and a paddle for this weekend :(
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damn, have you done that link up in a day before?
No, but it would be very doable. I've done all the routes and all of that cross country travel.
We should get a group together and do it this season, before the closures. We'll have three weekends in January during which we could set aside a day.
I like the idea of a rope for a large group; with a rope I could take Tricia along.
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No, but it would be very doable. I've done all the routes and all of that cross country travel.
We should get a group together and do it this season, before the closures. We'll have three weekends in January during which we could set aside a day.
I like the idea of a rope for a large group; with a rope I could take Tricia along.
Yep- good exercise and a way to see some formations I have no yet seen.
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Let's go!!!
we'll call it the scramclimbsolofest
we might want to take an inflatable and a paddle for this weekend :(
I was referring to your "she". ;)
Does sound like fun tho!
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I was referring to your "she". ;)
Does sound like fun tho!
yeah, that "she" will have to learn to downclimb :)
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>:D
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this was one I enjoyed
Cleft up then down
Ordeal down Cleft, optional down Ordeal
Swallow Crack down Cleft
Wet Kiss Down Portent
Regular Route up then down
Direct up then down
Terrainian Tango down Direct or Regular
Upper Crust various depending on the day
Sisters various depending on the day
Nipple Jam
Rat Race
The 6's I can comprehend - although I'm not sure I would ever want to try downclimbing them - but above that grade? Sheesh!
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Nice Brad, very nice
I always wanted to do this link up of all the major formations in the monument...
Start on the East Side @ Bear Gultch > the trail to feather canyon > Topout, do Tuff Dome > over to Condors > St Vals > Down to the W side> Coastanoan> up Machete say via Old Original> balconies (gulp)> rappel down
Somehow Discovery wall & monolith need to be included. So maybe exclude Feather and start on Discovery (Ordeal) then over to Monolith, then over to the high peaks then to the Wside. Finish on the Balconies (kinda sucks). Piglet Pinnalce for bonus points.
The idea is you'd do this link-up over +12 hrs.
All while carrying a coconut, 2 beers & a bag of cheetos.
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I think you killed the thread Factor!
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All while carrying a coconut, 2 beers & a bag of cheetos.
Factor, try editing your post: instead of saying "beers," change it to "Bud Lite Limes."
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I think you killed the thread Factor!
good reply.
@Brad Just say no.
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why me??
Or how about a link up of Discovery > High Peaks > Machette>
BLL for hydration!
Or back to date routes...
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Lava Falls
Shake n Bake
Cuidado
Powertools
Condor crag
Resurrection Wall
That's going down soon...
Brad's conditioner looks amazing
Mud you are or were crazy!
F4, I'd do it with a watermelon of you carry the coconut.
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African or European???
I'm back in PT, again so I might have to start with Brads deal. That and walking the fence.
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African or European???
Im not sure what that means.
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F4's coconut is between his shoulders so I guess it is of the European variety.
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I'm at Super Taqueria in Holister after completing Brad's "Conditioning" Tour. I'm thoroughly wiped and barely alive. The parts of my brain that corespond to 2nd-4th class, bush whacking , and route finding are unconscious. Not to mention my feet and legs, back and neck , etc. I think I've now officially been everywhere in the Pinnacles all in one day. I will post a trip report at a latter time, but right now I will say this tour would be better off done in two days. Yet it was still amazing in many ways.
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to cool. looking forward to the TR since you are the first person to do this.
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Insanity----that was a dare!
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Nicely done. I was hoping to hear from you and not SAR.
I'm very curious to hear what time you started from the parking lot. When I do this tour about next November (and it sounds like I will have to), I'll start two hours earlier.
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Brad, I started at 9AM and arrived back at the car at 630PM. I had to hustle really hard, but I guess having done all those cross country routes and approaches would be a huge benefit of your experience. And Damn! Crowely Towers was pretty far up there. what a cruel joke for the end... I've got many questions but I will save those for the TR.
I'm glad SAR didn't have to get involved. A fall on or near Frothy Flake could have been especially disastrous. There's much loose rock out there, but luckily the ice moss and ice lichen was holding it all together. This was pushing the limits pretty heavily, especially with only having the Rubine Book.
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And Damn! Crowely Towers was pretty far up there. what a cruel joke for the end...
Mungie has that approach dialed. the log book used to say he was there all the time... ???
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do a TICK CHECK!!!! OMG!!!
and hell of nice job. Rest up.
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Brad, I started at 9AM and arrived back at the car at 630PM. I had to hustle really hard, but I guess having done all those cross country routes and approaches would be a huge benefit of your experience. And Damn! Crowely Towers was pretty far up there. what a cruel joke for the end... I've got many questions but I will save those for the TR.
I'm glad SAR didn't have to get involved. A fall on or near Frothy Flake could have been especially disastrous. There's much loose rock out there, but luckily the ice moss and ice lichen was holding it all together. This was pushing the limits pretty heavily, especially with only having the Rubine Book.
Hell, I can start earlier than that. Yeah, knowing the cross country parts of the route will help. Like from the High Peaks down past Citadel.
Hey, if you actually did all 13 summits (completed the "tour") can I ship you a (no charge) copy of the newer book as a way of saying "nice job?" If that works, email me your address and I'll get that shipped out to you.
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I missed out on one of the Crowley Towers... because my guidebook sucked, and I was delirious. Not quite sure what I was on but I think it was number two. I thought having two routes so close was was a little contrived because all the other routes ended up being at least 30 mins apart. Ann this tour really is about the in betweens and the view. Also, I took JC's advice to skip one to avoid the dreaded 13.
Can i still get the guidebook?
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I missed out on one of the Crowley Towers... because my guidebook sucked, and I was delirious. Not quite sure what I was on but I think it was number two. I thought having two routes so close was was a little contrived because all the other routes ended up being at least 30 mins apart. Ann this tour really is about the in betweens and the view. Also, I took JC's advice to skip one to avoid the dreaded 13.
Can i still get the guidebook?
Yes, of course. If you get me an address.
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Trip Report first! ;)
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Also, I took JC's advice to skip one to avoid the dreaded 13.
Can i still get the guidebook?
Damn! I wouldn't have said that if I knew there was a reward/prize involved - plus since it is now 2013, does 13 really matter anymore?
Now I have people telling me they think 13 is a lucky number.
Really awesome that you made it to all the locations and climbs - major props!
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Awesome Adam, I have been to all of those places.....over the past 7 years.
I feel worked just knowing you finished with the Crowley approach.
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It was 3:50 PM when I neared the Balconies. That special extra reserve of energy that hits when I'm that close to the end started to pump through my veins. I dropped the pack and booked up that thing. It felt kind of effortless in an odd way. I had to beat the sun.