MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: cobbledik on December 03, 2012, 09:52:37 PM
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With the lady in Utah and the freeze coming into the valley, it looks like lonely pinnacles aid soloist is back in business.
I'm thinking of heading up to aid-solo Icarus this weekend. My main goal is to see if pitch three will go clean. No rack info in the book so I'll go with the usual thin and arrow selection but hopefully there's a way to leave the hammer and iron in the tag bag.
Wish me luck
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I am fairly sure it will go free. There are places for small aliens. Will be bold.
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Kev, a bunch of us mudheads will be down this weekend. Don't be a stranger. My Limes are your limes. I'll probably be over near premuditated.
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I'll keep an eye out for you guys.
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Kevin, this route is very, very high on my list (I've done Sons of the West, but not clean on the 5.11, and have not done the parts of Icarus that don't coincide with it). I was going to try to get on it with Mucci this season.
If you don't get it, or if you don't get it clean, would you be willing to climb it again on the following weekend? I'll try to get Josh in on this too. Josh, are you reading this? Could you make it?
BTW, the free climbing on the first pitch is spicy, as, I expect, will be the free portion of the second pitch (I've seen it from close up, but haven't led it.. The "V" slot part of the third pitch is pretty darn physical too.
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hahaha, poor guy, not enough that he has to get on it, but now you're asking him to get on it again?
oh Brad.
- but hey, maybe it will be classic and worth a second trip up!!
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With the rains it might be a bit damp.
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I think I'd be willing to climb it again (as long as I don't hate it) and chances are that once I pass (hopefully) the crux aid pitch I'll rap because summits don't mean a whole lot to me when i'm soloing. Returning for the full route might be cool with a partner. Dixie will be leave for a North Carolina trip after that weekend but I think she'd be keen to spend one of the days at the Pinnacles so I'll talk to her about that. Maybe I'll entice her with dreams of BLL...lol...blech :)
I'll have my silent partner in full effect so whooha for spicy damp climbing. Blech. So I'm assuming I should not attempt the free climbing in my approach shoes? double blech.
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Also Brad, I can't remember offhand, have you guys led the full center arch aid line on Machete yet? I know you asked me to hold off so you guys to get on it after you did the work to restore it, but can't remember if i saw anything later about that happening.
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No, we didn't get back last spring (and thanks for holding off). Get on it if you want. I plan on doing it after the closures this season.
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I'm not planning on the arch anytime soon, but have in on my list after the one you told me about with the hundred micro ballnut placements over a death fall of sharks with lasers on their freaking heads. (I might have made it sound more threatening in my head over the course of time.
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Need some Trango Ball Nutz? Was thinking about selling mine. The BW forum guys almost have me convinced to hold onto them. gah!
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You're both nuts. That roof isn't going clean. It will take Knifeblades driven straight up; at the outside edge it'll take some Lost Arrows. Ask Mucci, he's been on it. Ball nuts will look pretty on your rack, that's all.
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I have ballnuts Munge, hate'em.
I'm not talking about the roof for the ballnuts, I was talking about Jingus.
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I have ballnuts Munge, hate'em.
I'm not talking about the roof for the ballnuts, I was talking about Jingus.
That makes more sense. Sorry to second-guess you.
Jingus is pretty cool in that the moves go from ball nuts to a #4.5 Camalot.
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If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.
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If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.
Munge does.......he will trade for BLL
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If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.
Oh no, he's lost his nuts again!
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I'll purchase the ballnuts. Munge, they're worthless hand them over!
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Munge does.......he will trade for BLL
BLL isn't that bad..
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BLL isn't that bad..
Nit that good either ;D
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I used to drink Tequiza back in the day. I'd like to go back in time and slap that version of me.
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I thought BLL was a joke, but Munge gave me a few and I was quite impressed. Sure beats normal Bud. Of course hand drilling may have influenced my opinion....
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I'd like to go back in time and slap that version of me.
:D
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I thought BLL was a joke, but Munge gave me a few and I was quite impressed. Sure beats normal Bud. Of course hand drilling may have influenced my opinion....
I hear you Adam. It is way better than regular Bud but its still, well Bud.
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Muds, bring your cash this weekend. Word on the street is you may not show. Say it ain't so.
How are we keeping BLLs cold this weekend?
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Will not be there. Will be spending the weekend work on cabinets.
I do not drink BLL
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Will not be there. Will be spending the weekend work on cabinets.
I do not drink BLL
BLah, that house is starting to make you boring Mr Mud. At least let mudworm come out and play! Seriously though, good luck and be safe. You need those thumbs for thumberclings.
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yeah, looking forward to getting out. Getting close. Floor is done.
Had to rip out some more drywall. When the living room was done some 20 years ago they put a drywall nail through a water pipe. It did not leak much till recently, then when I pulled the baseboards off so the flooring could go in the nail come out followed by a bunch of water. That part of the sub floor has now been replaced, pipe fixed, but still need to do some blocking and patch a large hole in the living room wall. That was not in the project plan but I am gaining confidence in sweating pipes, blocking, laying down plywood and fixing drywall.
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Come over to my place. Need to pick up them skills...
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Another wall???
Keep replacing them walls
Could have been worse... Through an electrical wire & you touching it.
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BAM!
(http://budlightlime.ca/assets/images/mojito-logo.png)
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BAM!
(http://budlightlime.ca/assets/images/mojito-logo.png)
Not bam, more like ssssssssss
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what ARE you talking about?///
so clearly BAM!
LOL!!!
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Blech, woke up at 4:30am and sorted and prepped the rack and I'm missing some items. Not sure if I'm going to postpone to another week or if I'm going to head out Sunday after getting new fifis and such. But yeah, exhausted, blech.
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Dude, come down. Free climb with the crew...
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Well???
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Gonna do it next weekend with Brad (weather permitting) My girl is going to return from LA (she's shooting down there) on Friday and drop a line over the route to video and photo the ascent for her reel. Sooooo yeah.
There really is nothing like putting on a haul pack packed for soloing. So heavy. It's like getting a tattoo, you forget the pain until you hear the drill, then it all comes rushing back. ugh.
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aaaaaaaand weather bail. We have plans to jump on it in Jan weather permitting before the closures.
Man, can Brad put the fear of God in you about a damp route, but had a great convo with him over the phone. Super stoked for this route. This weekend will be another stay home and grade/cuddle weekend.
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Man, can Brad put the fear of God in you about a damp route, but had a great convo with him over the phone.
Didn't mean to put fear into you, but you can see the storm coming in for today and the route's going to be wet tomorrow. The thought of climbing the first and/or second pitches on damp lichen makes me very scared - I've been there and seen the runouts. The third pitch is a water-channel (which creates the water streak that makes up Sons of the West - it dumps right into it). And then more is coming in Saturday night.
Absolutely not a route to do when it is damp.
No grading for me this weekend, I've got a 70 foot ponderosa pine to drop and a bunch of burn piles that have been waiting for wet weather.
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Oh, don't get me wrong Brad, I like having that element of fear. The threat of failure and insecurity is where one can grow. Plus, it allows me to enter into the equation with more respect for the climb (as if one needs to figure out a way to have more respect and awe for clean aiding at the pinns)
This route will be epic and now I'll have more time to get stronger in the gym after my rotator cuff injury that I got from climbing too hard with mucci. Nothing like a gym to fix the problems you get from climbing in a gym.
Munge! I'm looking forward to climbing with you out there too. Not necessarily being a stranger but the end of the school semester means I get exhausted and such, then I'm heading out to North Carolina for christmas. Might do a winter wall in Yosemite with Dixie once we get back if the weather permits, but I'm off for two weeks in Jan so hopefully we can rope up then.
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Saturday A 30 percent chance of rain, mainly after 4pm. Partly sunny, with a high near 56. Southeast wind 3 to 7 mph.
Saturday Night A 50 percent chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 39. East southeast wind 9 to 14 mph.
Sunday A 30 percent chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 56. Southeast wind 6 to 8 mph.
Good weekend for aid and projects though. No worries K!
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Two people have asked how Kevin and I did on Icarus.
We didn't finish Icarus, but we learned a lot.
I was totally impressed when Kevin led the first pitch - which I've led and which I consider pretty tricky 5.9. He led it with a huge rack and pronounced himself "comfortable" with it all. That went quickly.
Things slowed down after that. We had a tough time figuring out where Glen and Gary went for sure on the last half of the second pitch. At the end of the day we concluded that it could only have been where I drew the topo (which is what I concluded when I drew it), but that they grossly underrated the pitch. Glen and Gary - the first ascentionists - called the route "5.8 A3," but I'd done a few of their 1970s routes before the book came out (they reported this route and about ten others one year before the book was done); enough to know that if they called the route "5.8" that I'd better bump it up to 5.9 at least. Factor no doubt recalls doing Daedalus with me and how bold it was and relatively hard for the rating.
So, on the second pitch, after trying various ways and being totally stumped, I avoided the dirty, loose, hard looking, but in hindsight obviously correct part by climbing up Sons of the West before moving right to Icarus' second belay.
Kevin then tried the third pitch before concluding that there's no way it will go clean. We realized at 2:00 that we were not going to finish, not even close, so we bailed off.
We'll go back, but before I try the top of pitch two the correct way, I will need to replace some bolts and scrub off some dirt and lichen (and maybe even try the free moves on TR - they look hard, run out and really friggin' scary; Kevin thought maybe 5.11, but they can't be that hard, they've got to be 5.10 something). Replacement bolts would make trying the really scary section a little less mental (at least the first ascentionists got to do their leading on "new" bolts).
We got back to the car at 4:00, waited for 20 minutes for other riff raff to show up, and, when none did, we took off.
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Two people have asked how Kevin and I did on Icarus.
We didn't finish Icarus, but we learned a lot.
I was totally impressed when Kevin led the first pitch - which I've led and which I consider pretty tricky 5.9. He led it with a huge rack and pronounced himself "comfortable" with it all. That went quickly.
Things slowed down after that. We had a tough time figuring out where Glen and Gary went for sure on the last half of the second pitch. At the end of the day we concluded that it could only have been where I drew the topo (which is what I concluded when I drew it), but that they grossly underrated the pitch. Glen and Gary - the first ascentionists - called the route "5.8 A3," but I'd done a few of their 1970s routes before the book came out (they reported this route and about ten others one year before the book was done); enough to know that if they called the route "5.8" that I'd better bump it up to 5.9 at least. Factor no doubt recalls doing Daedalus with me and how bold it was and relatively hard for the rating.
So, on the second pitch, after trying various ways and being totally stumped, I avoided the dirty, loose, hard looking, but in hindsight obviously correct part by climbing up Sons of the West before moving right to Icarus' second belay.
Kevin then tried the third pitch before concluding that there's no way it will go clean. We realized at 2:00 that we were not going to finish, not even close, so we bailed off.
We'll go back, but before I try the top of pitch two the correct way, I will need to replace some bolts and scrub off some dirt and lichen (and maybe even try the free moves on TR - they look hard, run out and really friggin' scary; Kevin thought maybe 5.11, but they can't be that hard, they've got to be 5.10 something). Replacement bolts would make trying the really scary section a little less mental (at least the first ascentionists got to do their leading on "new" bolts).
We got back to the car at 4:00, waited for 20 minutes for other riff raff to show up, and, when none did, we took off.
Thanks for sharing Brad. Incredible position that one is.
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Got some great shots of you guys, between the showers of choss...
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most of them didn't come out very well. :(
Posted one in FB.
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Got some great shots of you guys, between the showers of choss...
where are they?
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and maybe even try the free moves on TR - they look hard, run out and really friggin' scary
You can borrow my stick clip since I've never used it.
I gotta warn ya though...there could be a loss of respect :)
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We got back to the car at 4:00, waited for 20 minutes for other riff raff to show up, and, when none did, we took off.
Nice cya by inserting the word other before riff raff - although I have no idea who you are referring to!
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Two people have asked how Kevin and I did on Icarus.
Nice TR. Wish we would have been somewhere closer to see you two on the wall.
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JC...
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/16611_399592610129658_33607989_n.jpg)
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/16611_399592610129658_33607989_n.jpg
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I dig this shot and the route is such a cool location. I can just see the munge from here. We need a digital schmear of that Munge.
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I can just see the munge from here. We need a digital schmear of that Munge.
No, he was across the canyon when these shots were taken.
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You can borrow my stick clip since I've never used it.
I gotta warn ya though...there could be a loss of respect :)
No stick clip, we're talking way up on the second pitch. If we get the route done, including freeing the mandatory free parts, I'll live with the loss of respect.
Funny thing is, out of 450 or so feet of this route, I've led over half of it, and toproped a lot of the rest. There's a few parts left to do, and we'll get them done.
BTW I'm pretty sure it hasn't had a second ascent.
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No, he was across the canyon when these shots were taken.
Ha I meant "munge" like crud
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that's a bad pic for a smudge.
Need color and sky. One of the JC pics would be cool with the Orange.
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JC...
Thanks brudda - KC showed me that one on FB - I thought Mucci meant he had some too...
Looks like a long way to the deck!
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I'll live with the loss of respect.
BTW I'm pretty sure it hasn't had a second ascent.
That was a joke my friend - made with regard to a comment you made to me a while back that prompted me to stop carrying da pole. You'll always get props in my book!
I had no idea that no one else had been up that route - pretty cool!!
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Yes, I thought it was a poke in the ribs, but I stand by what I said: If we can get it done (and I'm sure we will), I could live with it (that is with a loss of respect if it really came).
Unfortunately it'll likely have to wait until next season now, with the closures coming on fast.
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So whats the few lines-paragraph story of this Icarus route? I vaguely looked at the guidebook earlier while at the gym, but couldn't really comprehend the story or supposed restoration project. It's A3 but would it go free?
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All but the second pitch. Well the second might go free but it would be way hard (13 or 14).
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Two people have asked how Kevin and I did on Icarus.
Thanks for the TR.
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So whats the few lines-paragraph story of this Icarus route? I vaguely looked at the guidebook earlier while at the gym, but couldn't really comprehend the story or supposed restoration project. It's A3 but would it go free?
Adam, too long and complex a back-story to keyboard. Call me if you'd like to say hi (and I'll tell you the story then), or we'll catch up next time we see each other.
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Saturday Joel and I had intended to get on a climb that turned out to be running water. So, after he led a route in the sun, and since we had the bolt kit along, we went over to rebolt a bit of Icarus.
I'd brought only a very light rack, so he also led Shortly Tooloose to get up onto the top of the Machete first tier (this route takes less gear than the real first pitch of Icarus). It's been a long time since I've done this route, and I'd forgotten how loose it is at the top (just like the first pitch of Icarus). He did well, and we then did the easy, but also very loose traverse left to the base of Icarus' second pitch.
I hadn't brought aiders or any other aid gear, but I rigged slings to work. I got up to the fourth bolt and hung on that while I stood on the third bolt with my "aiders."
I then proceeded to start the rebolting process, which is the entire purpose of this post. Glen Denny is very tall and his bolt ladders (this one included) require wicked-long reaches. These reaches give this bolt ladder interesting "character." I had previously replaced the second bolt in this ladder, and, to protect this character I'd carefully placed it at the same level as the replaced bolt, 10 inches to the left. Yet when I started "tap tapping" to find good rock for this new replacement bolt , all I heard was "tunk tunk" sounds - like hitting styrofoam with the hammer. Every place I tested at or near the same level as the bolt sounded dicey for a new bolt. I even tested the rock an inch from the bolt - and scared the crap out of myself: "yikes, one more hit and the whole chunk of rock will come out!"
I'm never willing to put replacement bolt in questionable rock. What's the point of replacing an old, reaching-the-end-of-its-lifespan bolt with a new one in poor rock? But I also didn't want to alter the long reaches on this ladder. What to do? I didn't see a choice: I decided to place the replacement up and right 18 inches in good rock. But this new bolt would be impossible to reach (I had to really stretch to clip the original from the bolt below as it was, and there's no way anyone could reach 18 inches more). When I made my decision I knew I would also have to place a second replacement bolt lower. I did this. So I replaced the third bolt with two bolts, both in good rock, both less distant from the bolt below. When I replace the old fourth bolt, I'll likely go up several inches above it and in the process fill the distance once taken up by two bolts with three (but three in good rock).
Long explanation for a hard compromise. I'm comfortable that I made the correct decision, but thought I'd post up so it was clear that what I had done altered the route slightly (but doesn't most Pinns rebolting alter the route slightly?).
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Sound logic in my book. Great seeing you Saturday Brad. Wish my best to Vicki and the girls.
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Sounds reasonable.
I wonder what the ASCA approach is to similar situations? Probably no hard and fast rule, other than aim for what you have tried to do here. thx for doing the work!
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Sounds like you made a good decision Brad.
I would have just drilled a fat hole, right in that choss, and slammed a euro toothpick in and called it good.
:P
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Sounds like you made a good decision Brad.
I would have just drilled a fat hole, right in that choss, and slammed a euro toothpick in and called it good.
:P
Yes, maybe you would have. But I must be more careful since I outweigh you by 50 or so pounds. Euro-toothpicks and I don't get along well.
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Well I've been silent for a while because Dixie and I broke up days before Brad and I got on Icarus. It came out of the blue and I've had to completely scrap my entire picture of my future and figure out a new direction for my now abandoned and untrusting heart. After climbing with Brad I've been drinking a lot and dealing with the issue, now that school is back in session, I can see straight again. Well, as straight as the world bent through the curve of my tears can be. (super emo I know)
So the first pitch was quite enjoyable for the first 2/3rds of the route. You clip off a tree branch that looks secured to the wall but as Brad learned, it slides about if you're not prepared for it. At this point, if you're small and light like me, you can climb into the tree to take a rest and gather yourself. The protection in the first pitch is Pinnacles good, R anywhere else. The belayer should NOT stand beneath the climb as massive rocks exploded from the upper section from mere brushing of the gear and feet across the face of the rock, showering down.
I had no sight of Brad during the 2nd pitch and failed to tag up the rack along with the iron once he made the single piton "belay" station. Dumb mistake but I was starting to get fried already from the crappy crappy rock quality at the top of the 1st pitch and from what rained down periodically from the 2nd pitch.
On the third pitch I headed up, but the protection was murky at best, set a nest of marginal pieces before a buldge that i'm sure is a free move to reach the base of the obvious A3 section which itself looks like cornflakes sprayed onto the rock with a stucco gun. I couldn't commit to the free move because of the crap rock everywhere. Would it have gone? Definitely, but i couldn't get the head for it. Tried, came down, tried came down, tried came down. Brad suggested a piece of aid, but I didn't see anything that made sense in that section. So bail we did with the waning light, there wasn't time for Brad to have a go. took a bit to figure out the descent but at the bottom we talked it over and rebolting and a bit more figuring out of the sequences are definitely in order.
Need to get back on it but will have to after the closures lift.
Woohoo. failure is nothing more than a step towards success.
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Yes, maybe you would have. But I must be more careful since I outweigh you by 50 or so pounds. Euro-toothpicks and I don't get along well.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH better get some ointment for that burn skinny boy!
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sorry to hear, seemed like a good thing. It seems folks typically do not expect stuff to come loose, I didn't. Rock heals a lot of wounds or a least numbs them well. The gym is better than a bottle and just as easy to crawl into and get lost.
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PG tonight.
Uber is going to make me and Squiddo into honed bad asses! LOL
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It seems folks typically do not expect stuff to come loose, I didn't.
best life metaphor ive seen on a forum in a long time
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Brad and Kevin got a great start on Icarus today. Brad led the upper free half of the second pitch and felt it was the scariest 5.9 pitch he'd ever led at Pinnacles. Kevin is 40% of the way up the A3 section. Now the weather is moving in early, and they're worried they may have to leave their ropes fixed in place.
-- Vicki
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Thx for the update Vicki!
Hope it stays good for them.
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Wow great
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I think the weather will hold until tomorrow night, barring a sprinkle or two.
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Just checked the sky from my backyard - the moon is shining through high clouds.
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may the power of the send be with them
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PG tonight.
Uber is going to make me and Squiddo into honed bad asses! LOL
He'll also try to get you to wear short shorts.
Soledad was pretty nice on Saturday night.
Evidently it's now the gateway to the Pinnacles.
If that's true, then what about Hollister?
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Or King City?
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Fingers crossed that the weather forecasters are wrong and the microclimate force field shields them.
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Fingers crossed that the weather forecasters are wrong and the microclimate force field shields them.
It never rains @ the Pinnacles.
Or King City?
True, true.
Maybe it can be the 2nd gateway?
I just chuckled seeing the nice signage. Good for them!
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and they're worried they may have to leave their ropes fixed in place.
Booty!
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Was starting to sprinkle as we were approaching the climb this morning so we decided to fix our "booty" and come back later.
Very fun aiding on pitch three everything is either bottoming or insipid. Brad got to see "the only camhook ever used at the pinnacles"
We ran into Waldo at the parking lot as we were leaving who had shown up to take photos of us on the route ... whoops :-/
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so glad this is posted publicly, so that I can get down there and replenish my rack. ;)
camhook? at Pinnacles? do tell!
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so glad this is posted publicly, so that I can get down there and replenish my rack. ;)
camhook? at Pinnacles? do tell!
LOL Munge lets roll! Head lamps.......
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Extraction at 1am PST with full wet wear.
If you don't see me at first, just go ahead and start extraction and stay on station.
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¡¡¡WARNING!!! gear "might" be booby trapped with poison dart frogs and rabid badgers wearing short shorts.
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¡¡¡WARNING!!! gear "might" be booby trapped with poison dart frogs and rabid badgers wearing short shorts.
short shorts are hot. its cool, game on then.
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I got the booty! It's now fixed on my new multi pitch rap bolting project. Sharma has shown me all the tricks for glueing loose rock together in an invisible manner.
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Dang it! Now you know what we use the poison-dart frogs for!
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They're also good for some erotic situations.
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Brad being Brad - Pitch 2 Bolt Ladder
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2QH8isIgN0I/UovxHkImKmI/AAAAAAAAN3I/S_Rx_i-VK1k/s400/IMG_0069.JPG)
Pinnacles being Pinnacles - Pitch 2 Belay Station
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Brqmbgi8w4A/UovxMt6rT7I/AAAAAAAAN10/w6XKjkaT-Dk/s400/IMG_0086.JPG)
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Anyone that wants to jug up in the rain on an anchor that consists of two fixed pins is welcome to go for it...
Kevin, thanks for a great day. I haven't felt that committed to a lead in a long time.
BTW, I just did what I said I would do; I looked at every other 5.9 in the guidebook, and I don't recall any one of them scaring me that much. Perhaps Cleaver Buttress - Direct and/or Happily Married Bachelor come the closest.
It wasn't the fear of dying - the replacement bolts took care of that. I think it was the length and steepness of the possible falls combined with the amount of loose rock and the totally unknown nature of the climbing (it looked so much harder than 5.9, yet the way I went only felt like stiff 5.9).
I'll never lead that pitch again, that's for certain. And to think that Denny and Colliver called the route 5.8! Talk about being bad-ass bad-asses, those two were the cream of the crop. It's a shame that so few people seem to know of their exploits there (the routes Daedalus and Denny-Colliver Direct, both also on Machete, are of the same nature).
Great work on the A3 pitch so far - you didn't have all that much to work with. I'm pretty confident that we'll put this one to rest on Saturday or Sunday.
(And those two pins at the anchor are backed up by one bomber cam and one good cam.)
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so glad this is posted publicly, so that I can get down there and replenish my rack. Wink
But it's Brad's rack right?
Best to catch him in the spring with "new" gear.
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At one point while leading the first pitch, Kevin went airborne. I thought he was off until he latched the tree branch above him. It caught me by surprise, although it shouldn't have since I think he did the same thing last time he led it. It makes sense too: the tree is directly in the way of the climbing.
I didn't have my camera yesterday, but here's the photo he took of me doing the same antics:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7371/10953944446_7e45d9208d_c.jpg)
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Brad,
Thanks for sharing the great photos and the narration. I know you must be a bit thrashed!
I totally concur with you about Denny and Colliver. I spoke with Glen at the party Royal hosted a few years ago. We shared a few laughs, but never got around to Icharus - no laughing matter in my book.
Rain's still holding off in K.C., but it's close.
Bob
P.S. Fixed pins at Pinnacles give me the willies. What sort of cams, by the by, did you leave up there?
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P.S. Fixed pins at Pinnacles give me the willies. What sort of cams, by the by, did you leave up there?
Ancient, old trashers with no remaining value ;)
(Actually they are Kevin's Trangos - nice cams. A purple and a blue.)
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Lol. Brad was calling my Totems "Trangos" all weekend.
Those cams are game changers, don't climb with them unless you've got money to spend on essential gear.
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EXTRA FUN ICARUS GAME!!!
Which of these things will you NOT find on Brad and my ascent of Icarus?
A. Brad's short shorts
B. Kevin having a bathroom issue* while waiting at the second belay.
C. A crash pad
D. Brad's echoing screams of elation an declarations to god during the second pitch.
E. Hypothermic dudes climbing in the rain.
TMI WARNING! DO NOT READ!
* (I totally pooped myself a wee bit while waiting for Brad to finish and allowing me to rap to the base)
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Lol. Brad was calling my Totems "Trangos" all weekend.
Goddammit, I can't get that straight. Hell, with age 53 coming up here fast, I suppose we should all be happy that I can even recall your name...
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And I am bringing the crash pad next time.
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lol happens to is all brad
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excellent. a poop story that always means the climbing is good.
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short shorts were the missing item!
too cold for that, no?
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Nay! We were smart ones and so no one was wet and hypothermic up on tha machete!
E is the correct answer thanks for playing! As a parting gift, you get to lead pitch 2!
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So the real question is, will this thing go free?
I spotted a new line last weekend. Chances are John Bolte and I will bolt it this weekend. I can't tell you where... Munge will say it's his.
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Munge says its all his. And if it isn't its aid
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So the real question is, will this thing go free?
No.
If you don't believe me, it's fairly easy to get up to the base of the second, bolt-ladder pitch. From below you can see that that section is pretty darn steep, and the rock quality there is so-so. And keep in mind that my opinion of the rock quality isn't based on one ascent. I've led that bolt ladder three times, and Kevin and I have replaced 2/3 of its bolts (and because of the replacement bolts my third lead of it was sporty instead of being "if one bolt pulls out right here I might die" terrifying).
The only other part of the route that doesn't already go free is the A3 half-pitch, and I think most of that would go free. There's a really steep headwall halfway up it that might not though, it's hard to tell.
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Here are two photos Kevin sent me of the lower part of that bolt ladder. They'll give you an idea what it looks like: (although seeing it in person would be the real proof). This overhanging part of Machete is totally unlike the hard, but free sections of Machete Direct - at least on those there's enough quality rock to work with, and those free sections are relatively short:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/10954109793_566e3c45cf_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/10954046514_e52690ef65_c.jpg)
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OMG that looks gnar.
Where are the short shorts? I guess that if you have pants you need to balance that out by using really thin aiders.
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OMG that looks gnar.
Where are the short shorts? I guess that if you have pants you need to balance that out by using really thin aiders.
Those are my lightweight aiders - adequate for a 50 foot bolt ladder.
And it was too cold for short shorts. Vicki told me that someone who I'd climbed with the day before had the gall to call these long leggers my "Swiss Cheese" pants (on Bookface).
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I liked those pants.
and if it's aid, it's mine.
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Swiss Cheese" pants (on Bookface).
Get it straight, Its called "Facecrack"
Brad, I like you no matter what you are wearing.
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Brad, I like you no matter what you are wearing.
Thanks... I think :D
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Atom, it will go
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pulled a screenshot of one of my camhook placements on pitch 2 of Premuditated.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18765538/premeditated%20camhook.jpg)
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https://vimeo.com/8305166
MIG TIG THAT SHIZ!
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pulled a screenshot of one of my camhook placements on pitch 2 of Premuditated.
That's a giant oatmeal cookie propped up against the cliff right?
I think I can see some raisins and maybe white chocolate chunks...
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Good thing I'm eating dinner.
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Now I feel better about the blade that Mucci welded on Laughing at the Void. I worked on it for quite some time and ended up losing quite a bit of skin in the process.
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It's all A1 til it crumbles.
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Forgot about that video! What a fun route that was.
Icarus has always been on my 'serious' list.
Good job on both of you and I wish you sending vibes this weekend.
If my partners bail on me (light duty) this weekend, I will come out and get some shots of you two.
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Six hours of work and pitch three is still not finished…
Aid portion of the pitch is finished though. By far the most difficult pitch of aid I've ever done at the pinnacles (yes, more difficult then premeditated)
The big question now is that we have five or so pins still fixed in the pitch and we have to decide if we are going to remove them at the risk of destroying the placement or, leave them at the risk of changing the character of the route (The route has had no fixed pins to this point except for one at the pitch two anchor)
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Bolt it!
I mean leave the Pins in.'
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free it
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Free those Pinns!!!
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Sounds like the placements will deteriorate either way.
FP are bunk in Pinns, and the threat of blowing out the placement will become a reality when the next team does that route in 37 years.
Pinns are expensive, best pull em the best you can, very gingerly.
2nd and last ascent ;D
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Sounds like the placements will deteriorate either way.
FP are bunk in Pinns, and the threat of blowing out the placement will become a reality when the next team does that route in 37 years.
Pinns are expensive, best pull em the best you can, very gingerly.
2nd and last ascent ;D
Booty pinns! Grab them and paint 'em Mucci red quick!
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Booty pinns! Grab them and paint 'em Mucci red quick!
But wait, isn't Red your color Squiddo?
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I plan on doing this route at some point and I will bring a hot glue gun to secure my pins.
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Route is finished! One day recon and bail. One day rebolting. Three days of climbing.
-Pitch 3 took me 7 hours over 3 days
-Brad almost lost his thumb (and will probably still die from iron poisoning).
-Two poop issues for Kevin
-Was able to pull all but one pin with no cleaning damage. We left the 3/4 angle driven at an upward angle into a pocket
-And introducing...The Crash Pad Rock Guard Awning (used at the pitch #2 belay)
Brad says: Who's next?
Kevin says: Jump on it quick before all my aid placements fill up with mud and lichen.
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Proud. 7 hours for you on a pitch means at least A4.
How were the upper 2?
Full report please.
Bravo team
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there it is.
hot damn!
"Crash Pad Rock Guard Awning" <-- can I borrow that? I have a little something something that needs to be done and the belayer shouldn't have to die.
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I have a little something something that needs to be done and the belayer shouldn't have to die.
Is this quotable?
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just facts
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I only lost a chunk out of the tip of my thumb. It just bled a lot. Kevin seems to keep the back edges of his thin, hatchet-like pitons very sharp (I'm not naming the type of pin because it will sound very strange in context).
Icarus is certainly the most serious route on Machete. It is also one of the most serious multi-pitch routes in the park. It requires an interesting combination of frightful, stout, mandatory free climbing and hairy aid - an unusual mix. Kevin, you were the ideal partner for that combination, thanks for sticking it out with me!
It's nice to have it done.
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40 Hawks and No Kit!
That's the only thing I learned in 2013, well, that and that Icarus is bad ass.
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How were the upper 2?
Here's a more detailed description of the whole climb:
- The first pitch is routine for Pinns, one stout section of 5.9, 50 feet to a ledge, some good pro, some not so good (including a nice, tied off tree branch). It has a ten foot long, scary, very loose, traversing finish. Take a set of cams from 1/2 to four inches.
- The second pitch starts with the 50 foot, overhanging bolt ladder. This still has enough un-replaced bolts to add a little spice. From the end of the bolt ladder move up and right to an obvious (and fractured) lodestone. From the top of this lodestone clip a bolt. Move up and left to an unlikely slot that takes a good #3 Camalot. Continue up a slight right facing corner, placing two more one inch cams in slots. Belay from two fixed pins and two good cams (1 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch). The pitch is 120 feet long. The mandatory free climbing on this pitch looks very hard, and virtually everything that sticks out from the face seems loose (I used mostly things that went into the rock, slight scoops, for my feet and just pulled very, very gently on the stuff I had to use for my hands).
- Pitch three requires good loose-rock free climbing skills and really, really heads up Pinnacles (note: Pinnacles, not granite) aid climbing ability. It is 100 feet from the second pitch belay to the bolt at the top of the aid portion of this pitch. Loose 5.6 (or so) climbing then leads up and left eight feet to a large scoop (Sons of the West rejoins Icarus here). There is one bolt about eight feet above this scoop. Note, continuing with the upper part of this pitch may not be wise. This third pitch is 190 feet long as it is shown in the '07 guidebook, and that may be too much without a really serious use of runners below (Kevin set up a belay from this one bolt backed up by a rivet ten feet higher and cams ten feet above that; I jugged on this anchor. Glen and Gary certainly belayed here from one, yes one, Star Dryvin bolt). Kevin used a pink Tri-Cam, stoppers, cams to two inches, about a dozen pins (mostly thin to small angles), and a "Pika" hook (multiple uses of this hook on the pitch).
- The upper part of pitch three (call it pitch four) is the "V" slot. This protects fairly well with a few large stoppers and cams from 1/2 inch to 4 1/2 inches. When I led it I thought it was very physical, that it had one distinct crux at a desperate-looking overhanging spot, and that it was otherwise fairly straightforward. Kevin led it on this climb, and I think he would agree with my assessment (I heard some grunting from him, at least).
- The fifth pitch is about 170 feet long and is protected with bolts only. The first 135 feet are sustained 5.8, with several 20 foot runs between bolts. The climbing then gets easy to a two-bolt anchor.
- The last pitch is 60 feet of very easy fifth class to the top.
I think the funniest moment of our ascent was when I said to Kevin "I think the FA was in 1976." A long pause was followed by his response: "That was three years before I was born." That's a long gap between ascents.
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2016!
er, probably not. Doesn't sound like much fun, all in all.
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Thanks for the write up Brad.
I will live vicariously through you on this one and probably avoid Denny/Colliver routes like the plague in future excursions.
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No, not a fun route, all in all. But a fun experience; one that is already getting better as it recedes in time.
Perhaps the best part was getting to know Kevin better. I still recall the first time I met him (in the West Side parking area; when he told me he intended to do Premeditated "clean," I thought he was either a lunatic or totally inexperienced. I learned on Icarus that he's definitely not inexperienced).
The more I think about it, the more my admiration for those two (Denny and Colliver) grows. Although part of me questions their state of mind: on several of their Pinns routes they belayed on single, 3/8 inch Star Dryven bolts. Yes, they were newly placed when they did this. Yes, they modified the bolts and yes they placed them well. But one bolt? In Pinns rock? I was kinda bent jugging on a single (modern but rusty) 3/8 inch bolt that was backed up by a rivet and cams up higher. And their run-outs? Bold is a good start for describing their Pinns climbing. And with so little noise too - more than half of their Pinns routes went unreported until 2006.
I think that, if I was to do Icarus again, I'd first replace the bolt at the end of the A3 section, the bolt where Icarus and Sons of the West join, and the rivet ten feet above that (I'd replace all three with 3/8 inch stainless). I'd then definitely belay where we did, where Sons rejoins Icarus (BTW, we belayed as indicated but then used the Sons of the West belay anchors to back up our fixed ropes as we descended - yet another way that we weren't as bold as Glen and Gary - but it would have been dumb to not use these as backups since we were rapping right over them).
Now, I'm off to get a tetanus shot; it turns out that the booster isn't good for 15 years, but only 5 to 10.
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congrats!
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Boom, there it is.
Kevin is Solid all around, the kind of guy you want around when the shit goes Bagalaar.
He said the free climbing you did up there was very real.
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I've seen Brad's free abilities on granite too. 10d R valley potato chipping shit.
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10d R valley potato chipping shit.
Quotable
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Great work, gentlemen! The Icarus club is small and most distinguished.
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Some pics
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ibf4MOT7484/UpjagwMGH9I/AAAAAAAAOCs/hygUAo4snIY/s640/2013-11-25%252014.13.27.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6LGZ5_kfYJA/UpecRwuuabI/AAAAAAAAOB4/Zwz-qbg6yn0/s640/2013-11-24%252010.54.16.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JOfazOFJQYI/UpecUOCtW-I/AAAAAAAAOCA/GOWIFzCAMc0/s640/2013-11-24%252010.54.31.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-StiBfFywVPY/Upjaf24j0OI/AAAAAAAAOCc/1RF0XWbbq6s/s640/2013-11-25%252014.12.58.jpg)
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That's the stuff
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Wait a minute... Brad called me a lunatic! WhyIautta...
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Hey, I'm suffering over here. I'd forgotten how tetanus shots ache. And, since I was going to pass out from the sight of one needle, I had them do a flu shot too, so I would just already be unconscious. So I've also been wiped out with "mild" flu symptoms.
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get well soon.
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Got the sniffles and sneezes going darn strong over here too.
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Lol, you guys just did heinous "pinns A3" and pinns run out 5.9 loose free....and now you guys are posting about sniffles and sore arms?
buahaha
*irrational fear of needles is fully justified tho. Hate em.
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Icarus Postscript:
- Quoted material posted with each author's permission.
- As demonstrated below, Kevin is one tough dude. Like "holy crap" tough.
- Warning: some of what appears below may turn your stomach.
When Kevin and I launched up our fixed ropes on our final day on Icarus, I lost a purple handkerchief. It had been in my pocket, and I think it snagged on something.
As he was rappelling after the climb we saw my missing, well-used "snot rag" about 30 feet up on the wall, stuck on a little bush. I was bummed to have littered, if only by accident.
Two weeks later Kevin and I linked up to do a first ascent up and right from the base of Icarus ("Are You Inexperienced," finished yesterday). Alas, my handkerchief was still there, 30 feet up the wall. Kevin's friend Sammy joined us for the day yesterday.
This morning I emailed Kevin and thanked him for a great day. I also asked how Sammy had done on her own later-in-the-day lead of Corona. Here's the email exchange that resulted (appalling, stomach turning parts in bold):
His first reply:
Sammy did fantastic on corona, I led it and she followed. Then she sailed up Corona on lead nice and methodical, no hangs, no freaking out, and moving solidly all the way to the chains.
I was quite proud of her.
You'll be happy to know that when I cleaned Are You Inexperienced I traversed to the chains above your handkerchief and retrieved it. I'll get that to you when I can.
Sami says to tell Tricia merry christmas!
My follow-up:
Good for her!
And good for you for having the courage to handle my used snot-rag (yuck). Thanks.
Oh, and for obvious reasons I missed getting your signature in my first ascentionist's guidebook. Let's not forget!
And his second reply:
It's worse than you thought, I needed both hands to keep from swinging back into the corned to the right so I had it in my mouth for a bit. Here's hoping the rain gave it a good rinsing.
Yep, that's one tough hombre...
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Eeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
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I actually think that I had a more last taste in my mouth from putting the wrong end of the blow tube into my mouth when I was drilling the anchor bolts at the top of the new climb. Maybe that was the best thing, rock dust to protect you from the future snot possibilities.
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I just went and did the first two pitches with my buddy Nate this past Sunday. I had no idea what to expect of the route but planned on looking into the Sons of the West variation since aid climbing is totally not my thing. This first pitch was heads up for me, it had been awhile since I got on some choosy 5.9. I was excited I brought the tricams and the tree rest was most welcome. I then led the second pitch bolt ladder with just a quick draw and a double length sling with some knots tied in it, plus runners for pro. I didn't find it reachy even with limited gear, although in a few spots I pulled on some manky body weight kind of pieces and made one 5.10+ free move. I aided all the way to the start of the Son of the West variation. We rapped from here after Nate struggled up behind me. I was kind enough to not bring him gear for ascending the line. This is typically how I haze new climbing partners. I like Nate. He smiled the whole way despite the lack of equipment. Now he's a certified ninja aid climber. At this point Nate was pooped and the heat was coming on quick. We rapped and then we went and did the first two of SOD. I linked the first two pitches. I went form the ground to having Nate on belay in under ten minutes. I joked how I felt like Honnold and that I should go for a NIAD. Ironically another climbing partner called me for a NIAD attempt next Thursday. I quickly felt my rack of nuts shrink and declined, not feeling like Honnold much anymore.
Anyways. Icarus, via SOTW, looks pretty cool. Looking forward to going back. The V-slot looks pretty rad. The aid climbing looks scary. I will not be repeating that one.... ever.
Congrats to the 2nd ascent party.
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Rad.
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The climbing from the SOTW bolts up to the aid pitch was def heads up and I'm glad that Brad led that section. I'm actually glad I couldn't even watch him from the ledge below because everything feels easier when you don't have to watch all the flexing timebombs beneath your partner's hands and feet.
Good luck if you ever do decide to try to aid pitch. It's all there, barely; hard but not that dangerous because you either find the placement and go up, or you don't find it and head on down.
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Rad.
Totes!
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The climbing from the SOTW bolts up to the aid pitch was def heads up and I'm glad that Brad...
Typo? Deaf, and other impairments? You guys probably watch AFHV and mutter to yourself "I can do that" after all the really painful wipe-outs.
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Your old man is showing.
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Embarrassing.
Speaking of old men, where's Brad?
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Tahoe
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Totally OT but I remember watching the British version of AFHV in England and that show is much more vindictive over there. I distinctly remember one video that was a baby walking on a diving board, slipping, hitting its head, and falling into the pool. Not really in a funny pratfall sort of way, more of a holy shit that baby just died sort of way. My English family just laughed and couldn't understand the difference between funnyhaha and cringyomg.
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Hilarious take on that one Cobbledik.
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Nice job getting on it!
...I then led the second pitch bolt ladder with just a quick draw and a double length sling with some knots tied in it, plus runners for pro. I didn't find it reachy even with limited gear, although in a few spots I pulled on some manky body weight kind of pieces and made one 5.10+ free move. I aided all the way to the start of the Son of the West variation...
Curious, did you use aiders; it almost sounds like you just muscled up it! Did we leave enough old bolts on the ladder to provide a little spice?
...We rapped from here after Nate struggled up behind me. I was kind enough to not bring him gear for ascending the line. This is typically how I haze new climbing partners. I like Nate. He smiled the whole way despite the lack of equipment. Now he's a certified ninja aid climber...
And maybe a budding Master of Mud too ;)
I joked how I felt like Honnold and that I should go for a NIAD. Ironically another climbing partner called me for a NIAD attempt next Thursday. I quickly felt my rack of nuts shrink and declined, not feeling like Honnold much anymore.
Reminds me of how bad-ass we thought we were, doing thirty something pitches on Dark Star by late afternoon one day. Until we saw the summit entry by Peter Croft!
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Curious, did you use aiders; it almost sounds like you just muscled up it! Did we leave enough old bolts on the ladder to provide a little spice?
Didn't he say a quick draw and a knotted sling?
I thought you and Cobble used dental floss and paper clips :)
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No, he wore dental floss, and I pounded paper clips into the rock.
It sounded to me like the "knotted sling" was a daisy chain, but, you're right, maybe he used it as an aider.
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That means it is now A0.
:)
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Nice job getting on it!
Curious, did you use aiders; it almost sounds like you just muscled up it! Did we leave enough old bolts on the ladder to provide a little spice?
And maybe a budding Master of Mud too ;)
Reminds me of how bad-ass we thought we were, doing thirty something pitches on Dark Star by late afternoon one day. Until we saw the summit entry by Peter Croft!
Brad, I didn't use aiders and I didn't feel like I muscled up it. I simply used the quick draw much like a fifi hook allowing me to stand up tall, kinda like top stepping, in a sling I had clipped to the same bolt then clipping the next bolt with a quickdraw then choking the cobra on that draw while I would move my tied sling up and match the new bolt, pop off the quick draw below and climb up until I could clip my fife draw into the quickdraw. There were enough foot holds on the pitch to allow me to do this. And if any of the cobra choke moves got too hard I could simply clip the lead line and pull up on the rope, just like I do when I'm hang doggin.
It sounds confusing when I re-read this. Hopefully it makes some kind of sense to you. It's just a whatever works style. Definitely helps out in a pinch.
Oh, I also don't worry about those old bolts too much. I'm 140-145 lbs. I assume if they hold everyone else they'll hold me too.
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It's as hard to follow what you wrote as it would be to write it myself.
But now that I understand what you had with you, it's easy to visualize how you did it.
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Brad, I didn't use aiders and I didn't feel like I muscled up it. I simply used the quick draw much like a fifi hook allowing me to stand up tall, kinda like top stepping, in a sling I had clipped to the same bolt then clipping the next bolt with a quickdraw then choking the cobra on that draw while I would move my tied sling up and match the new bolt, pop off the quick draw below and climb up until I could clip my fife draw into the quickdraw. There were enough foot holds on the pitch to allow me to do this. And if any of the cobra choke moves got too hard I could simply clip the lead line and pull up on the rope, just like I do when I'm hang doggin.
It sounds confusing when I re-read this. Hopefully it makes some kind of sense to you. It's just a whatever works style. Definitely helps out in a pinch.
Oh, I also don't worry about those old bolts too much. I'm 140-145 lbs. I assume if they hold everyone else they'll hold me too.
Attach sling to bolt, step into sling and clip one side of a draw into the bolt and the other side of the draw into the belay loop. Use free moves while connected via draw to bolt until you can reach up and clip the next bolt. Rinse and repeat.
A lot of the confusion in writing this process seems to be in explaining the process of moving a single sling from the lower bolt to higher bolt. The whole thing can be eased by using two separate slings. I'm assuming you tied knots in the sling to give yourself more "steps" in the sling; if you didn't, consider that next time, especially if there's not a lot of features to use or the bolt ladder is overhanging.
If you're going to do more routes at the pins with bolt ladders, consider getting a pocket aider (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pocket_aiders.html (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pocket_aiders.html)). Only 6oz and packs up small in its own pouch. You only really need one in conjunction with a long sling used as a daisy on your belay loop to hang off off while transferring the pocket aiders from the lower bolt to the upper bolt. Even better, make your own ladders from webbing (http://www.climbing.com/skill/tech-tip-aid-cheap-aiders-and-daisy-chains-2/ (http://www.climbing.com/skill/tech-tip-aid-cheap-aiders-and-daisy-chains-2/)) I've made a pair of these for fun. They're not comfortable but they're cheap and get the job done. Plus you get hardman cred from the crusty old dads around here. ;)
Be careful trusting your weight to the idea that manky bolts (or fixed pins and heads) have held heavier climbers before you. The failure is less likely to come from extreme weight than it is the degrading metal and freeze/thraw effects over time. What might hold 200lbs one year might fail under 100lbs a few years later. This is why early spring ascents of wall routes with fixed gear in Yosemite are inherently scarier than the rest of ascents later that year.
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Saturday was another great day questing for mud. Cole and I did Icarus, which was another great experience overall.
Cole always said Icarus was the most obvious line on Machete in terms of a long route up a classic face. We are hoping to get more aid experience and it seems Icarus is the only aid line in pinnacles that isn't a bolt ladder and actually goes somewhere. I always thought Son Of Dawn Wall was the most obvious, and Icarus looked too hard.
On Saturday, we got the good weather window, as it seems to rain every weekend this winter.
We got to the parking lot around 7:45 AM and to the base at 8:30.
The rock-paper-scissors gods did not smile down upon me that day and determined Cole lead the first pitch.
We racked up, flaked the ropes, and realized we were at the base of Shortly Tooloose 5.8 R.
Once at the actual first pitch of Icarus it was 8:45 and Cole headed up the first pitch. It started off really secure rock for the first 30 feet then once on the slabby section the rock was less than bomber. Cole made the mistake of looking at a flake wrong and a couple foot section of rock came down. He got up to the belay and I followed wondering why I had only heard about how spooky other pitches were. If this was the chill warmup pitch, we were in trouble.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917921_3311b3846c_c.jpg)
Cole on P1
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554066182_755abf697d_c.jpg)
Looking down P1
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554066037_d49a7a1798_c.jpg)
At 9:30 I was leading the 2nd pitch and that was the most reachy bolt ladder I have ever done. There was a black totem I had to high-step somewhere on the upper bolts but that was the only gear in the bolt ladder. After pooping my pants for 15 minutes getting out of the ladders I climbed past a bolt or two and a #2 before getting up to another bomber anchor beneath the A3 pitch.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917896_74082ed4f3_c.jpg)
Super convenient anchor ^ definitely would suck if it was bolted. Obviously, it was not in the comfortable-looking pod with no gear 5 feet higher.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555256794_e7ceb8482f_c.jpg)
Cole arrived at the anchor at 10:45.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917861_e9befb5f99_c.jpg)
He set off leading the A3 pitch at 11:00. Aside from the usual rack, 2 LAs and 3 beaks were needed to get through the seam. Plus some fixed pins, I think 3 - I assume have Brad or Kevin to thank for leaving those. All the fixed pins seemed welded in and had no chance of being bootied.
The one bolt on the pitch was a stardrivin which Cole said he was stoked to have. Worth noting the 3rd pitch belay was just one modern bolt backed up by a mediocre #1 15 feet higher. It took about 2.5 hours to lead and clean the pitch and at 1:30 I was leading the groove pitch.
I found this to be the best pitch by far and while I got a lot of gear in I wouldn't have wanted to test much of it. I found the varied stemming and chimneying on this pitch to be very fun. About half the pitch was pretty solid, the left side, the right wall was somewhat loose, especially at the beginning.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917851_05df662e00_c.jpg)
Looking down on Cole after the crux of the pitch.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554066137_9c25147e2e_c.jpg)
Just over crux of P4
It was another uncomfortable belay.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917811_566abe8492_c.jpg)
An hour later Cole was leading the next pitch which would have been quite good except for how dirty it was. A classic case of “once this line gets more traffic it will clean up”.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555256514_9dcbd98cde_c.jpg)
Me following up last real climbing
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554917801_727a810f1c_c.jpg)
At 3:30 we were at the base of the easy pitch. The belay under the massive flake was quite nice but we had a date with summit beers so we moved on quickly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555364785_01e8cf7715_c.jpg)
Leading last pitch
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555117728_bf5eb5cc8a_c.jpg)
We both summited at 3:50 and the condors came to check us out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555364825_5e1d3f28da_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555364860_c678888952_c.jpg)
The condors were awesome and landed nearby, it was the closest we’ve been yet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555256664_197e5115e9_c.jpg)
We could perfectly see the Citadel from here and saw a pair on Power Tools. Knowing Mikayla and Gavin were there that day we cheered them on watching Mikayla climb P4. Rudely they never responded to our cheers… Mikayla later said they did not do Power Tools.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555117723_517b91a33f_c.jpg)
At 5 we were rapping off the Old Original P1 anchors, I think, we have yet to do Old Originals P1&2.
The hike back to the base went quick and smoothly. At the base we found the one piece of gear dropped on P3, a lost arrow in a pile of leaves.
It’s worth noting that we hauled a school backpack the whole way and it worked quite well. In the groove pitch and last bolted slab pitch, the follower was necessary to get it unsnagged. It was nice not to have to carry the water, rack, and hammer for most of the pitches.
TLDR^
I really like writing these trip reports as my partners are constantly asking about our past shared experiences that I just can't for the life of me remember. Maybe living in Santa Cruz has contributed to my shot memory or maybe I've taken too much choss to the dome. Either way I really like rereading through these past stories with friends that are really family. Just wish I didn't have to jump through flickr hoops to post a real story here.
Thanks to Brad for beta and rebolting efforts. Thanks Cole as always for being a badass and making sure we got it done.
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You guys are machines!
Loved the trip report - thanks for the entertainment.
:thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Proud send! Now go get on Premeditated and see if you young bucks can get the final traverse clean so that we can finally know that the whole route can go clean.
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Proud send! Now go get on Premeditated and see if you young bucks can get the final traverse clean so that we can finally know that the whole route can go clean.
We did in December, nailing both pitches. I don't wanna go anywhere near Premeditated again, much less attempt it clean. Thing had me gripped! Total type 2 fun for me, compared to Icarus' (mostly) type 1. Plus nailing is pretty fun >:D
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Either way I really like rereading through these past stories
Me too! This one was super good so I will definitely give it repeat views.
Hopefully the forum won't implode and the posts of your adventures will inspire others in the future.
So what's next?
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Great work Marco and Cole - that's an awesome effort getting through Icarus.
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Nice send
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Thanks JC, Kevin, Noal, Gavin, & mud.
Still riding the stoke wave of the climb.
I assume the weather rained out anyones plans for this past weekend. Fingers crossed for better conditions for the rest of the season.
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Still riding the stoke wave of the climb.
Those waves are timeless.
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Those waves are timeless.
Only if you're asleep for 20 years!
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Only if you're asleep for 20 years!
Gnomenclature!
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I spent some time early this month in trial and I'm only now getting caught up on some things that I had to leave alone while I focused on that.
Superb effort on this one.
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NOYCE!!!