MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on December 15, 2012, 07:37:55 PM

Title: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: mungeclimber on December 15, 2012, 07:37:55 PM
The first time I top roped this line I thought it was pretty good. It has some length to it compared to the other bolted lines on the wall. It is fairly steep, especially the bottom. The rock quality (IIRC) wasn't as good as No Smiles, but wasn't bad. What do you think about establishing it as a lead line (ground up, of course)?

- I'm probably not the right person for the actually placing/redpoint because I've rehearsed it. If I put the bolts in, it might rob someone else of the opportunity to get it clean.

- With that said, I'd like to climb it again as a well protected lead line so I want to encourage putting in good pro on it.

- Is there someone that would be interested in doing this?  If so, let me know, I'll belay and run ground control.


-M
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: cobbledik on December 16, 2012, 07:16:18 PM
I could be your huckleberry. Based upon your TR, would this be stance or hook drilling?

But mostly, I noticed in Brad's book that the FTRA is unknown, is it that
#1: those that found the other routes there choose not to lead Bad Ape
or is it that
#2 those that found the other routes there choose to leave Bad Ape as a TR?

I wonder if "unknown" sometimes means, "we don't know exactly, but we heard that the general feeling about the climb by whomever actually did it is......."

I'm overthinking it. bah! I'll get the bulldog fired up, you mix the epoxy and sharpen the chisel.
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: mungeclimber on December 16, 2012, 08:22:57 PM
Quote from: cobbledik on December 16, 2012, 07:16:18 PM
bah! I'll get the bulldog fired up, you mix the epoxy and sharpen the chisel.

LOL
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: mungeclimber on December 16, 2012, 08:32:18 PM
oh, and either style, I think.

maybe k-man or Tom D. know more?

Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: Atomizer on December 16, 2012, 09:46:51 PM
Sounds like a a one or two bolt lead. Should be cake for whoever goes up there. I've got some of those new instant glueons, so you won't need the bulldog. Cobbledik, send me your address I'll mail them over.
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: cobbledik on December 16, 2012, 10:02:59 PM
Send them to:

David “Pelut” Palmada
4th Ladder Step
Bashieville, Spain
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: F4? on December 16, 2012, 10:51:59 PM
Quote
I've got some of those new instant glueons, so you won't need the bulldog.

Give me a few. I'll add a few to Peregrine when replacing the bolts.

This could open up a new front.
Title: Re: Putting Lead bolts on Bad Ape 10c?
Post by: Atomizer on December 17, 2012, 08:30:14 AM
They are kind of siimilar to the glueons that you see all over castle.