MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: mungeclimber on December 17, 2012, 11:55:33 PM
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I miss that place sometimes...
ye old tyme 10c/d somewhere in the Calico Hills/probably close to the Gallery
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8079/8282765803_d31898fcef_b.jpg)
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Well, seeings how the place has come up in other threads and I have a bunch of photos.....
1st pitch of Ginger Cracks, no he is not stuck....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Red-Rocks-08/i-Q2jLKSD/0/L/DSCF2320-L.jpg)
Can't remember where this is from.....our '08 trip
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Red-Rocks-08/i-2XJfJ8m/0/L/DSCF2316-L.jpg)
Y2k
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/RedRocks10/i-LqnMqrK/0/XL/DSCF5241-XL.jpg)
Unimpeachable Groping (sp?)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/RedRocks10/i-dxkcfTR/0/L/DSCF5240-L.jpg)
The official "Honey wagon"
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/RedRocks11/i-GfpCbPb/0/M/P1000144-M.jpg)
Black Orph..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/RedRocks11/i-cMdqkTj/0/L/P1000155-L.jpg)
This was a Mullet free posting.
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Bump!!
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Looks like weather is perfect for Brad - lucky stiff!
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Meh, it's only in the 70s. That would be freezing in the shade.
But good for climbs in the sun...unless the wind comes up.
Hope he as a good time.
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Meh, it's only in the 70s. That would be freezing in the shade.
But good for climbs in the sun...unless the wind comes up.
Hope he as a good time.
perfect temps
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Just arrived back to the coast from RR. Very awesome trip visiting Dave Allfrey.
Highlight #1
Jetstream Wall.
This may be the best climb in Red Rocks. Amazing rock and continously sustained for 6 pitches. Very impressive send by Dave. One of those special days with just the right partner that makes the difference between success and a return trip. Ill be back for this one.
Pitch 2 5.13-, 25 ft boulder problem crux.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/D515F884-A93F-4FB0-AE29-5D80957679A2_zpsg2mlvhep.jpg)
Pitch 4 5.12B, 000 cams and Ball Nuts
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/1F3D2CFB-9FC7-46E9-BAFE-733882D53234_zpsdkjmwity.jpg)
Pitch 6 5.12A, funk roof to finger crack roof finish.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/D147DC59-10B8-41A1-BA71-4EB0B680FF50_zpskgzahdaa.jpg)
topping out
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/1920446_10101161162138628_1739979276_n_zps08c9849f.jpg)
Highlight #2 Resolution Arete and Dogma in a day.
It took 4:25 to simul climb up Resolution. Super fun route that is mostly 5.8 with a touch of 5.10 and 5.11+
I think it was something like 4 or 5 pitches.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/01ebd575-a3c7-4844-ba62-cb1a1d83d6f1_zps7383f1b7.jpg)
Then we dropped the extra gear on the summit and descended Dogma.
Super cool position and intriguing climbing.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/423f66f2-5b65-48eb-875d-090ce03befa5_zps9edb5a41.jpg)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/1779858_10101163797023298_773739847_n_zps43d97d51.jpg)
Then we just went sport climbing. Took a a week to recover from these two days. Good times! Super inspiring to climb with Dave, who has really turned on his game. Eventually Honnold showed up and I lost my partner... they are training to do 7 El Cap routes in 7 days.
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EPIC EPIC EPIC.....inspiring Adam and a great trip. I need to get back out there and get on RA. Maybe Fall.
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Jeezus Atom...spray much?
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Jeezus Atom...spray much?
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D TROLL
Its a TR, awesome pictures right? Nice stuff
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Nice Atom!
Ball Nuts? Yuk
Guessing Dave doesn't need the thin gear I had for sale anymore.
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nice trip! those look like super routes.
7 in 7, that is friggin burly.
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Guessing Dave doesn't need the thin gear I had for sale anymore.
Selling yer small nuts?
Nice pictures!! This is what we've been needing.
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Jeezus Atom...spray much?
Just trying to keep up with you bro!
I've been on a Pinns sabbatical (unemployment)
I have more cool pics if interest is expressed.
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Just trying to keep up with you bro!
I've been on a Pinns sabbatical (unemployment)
I have more cool pics if interest is expressed.
More picts
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7 in 7, that is friggin burly.
It's going to be impressive. They plan on doing a number of first one day ascents and a couple of rest days on routes like The Nose and Lurking Fear.
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.......and a couple of rest days on routes like The Nose and Lurking Fear.
Amazing.
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More picts
Here's another for you Squiddoman.
The 5.9+ traverse. Definitely not 5.9+ by my standards.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/jetstream003_zpseb73dfcd.jpg)
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Nice and I second the motion for more pics
dang, the Nose is a rest day. Jeepers, I definitely am not worthy.
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Why does it matter to me if anyone knows about what I'm doing? And does anyone really care what I'm doing? Should my experience be based on what other people think of me or what I feel? I keep it personal, so you won't see me posting about and spraying about my surf trip, or the week I spent Bouldering and climbing Smokes Rock Course in Bishop after, or my last few days in a sunny 65 Yosemite Valley.
From no more spraying to shameless name dropper!
That 5.9+ traverse looks awesome :)
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From no more spraying to shameless name dropper!
All I can say is, things change... as all real Pinns climbers know.
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All I can say is, things change... as all real Pinns climbers know.
Long-term loss of short term memory...
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Long-term loss of short term memory...
That's a good strategy... its better to forget you are runout on choss.
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That's a good strategy... its better to forget you are runout on choss.
If I wasn't runout on choss I wouldn't know how to act!
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If I wasn't runout on choss I wouldn't know how to act!
you are runout choss...
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you are runout choss...
DIE!
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you are runout choss...
That's why he's got the orange shirt on... so if he craters nobody will be able to tell the difference.
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Buahaha
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I miss that place sometimes...
ye old tyme 10c/d somewhere in the Calico Hills/probably close to the Gallery
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8079/8282765803_d31898fcef_b.jpg)
Rob, I led that line yesterday.
The route is American Sportsman, and it's at The Wall of Confusion, just left of The Gallery. Handren's book calls it 5.10c and gives it two out of three stars. It felt easier than the 5.10b I did at The Gallery itself though, and how this route can get two stars when the several nearly identical sport routes near it get none is beyond me (those nearby should get at least one star, in my always humble opinion).
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Brad, How was Rainbow Buttress? I saw your car at Oak Creek on Saturday when we planned to do rainbow wall. It looked too cold and we never left the car. The clouds looked a little intense that day...
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Brad, How was Rainbow Buttress? I saw your car at Oak Creek on Saturday when we planned to do rainbow wall. It looked too cold and we never left the car. The clouds looked a little intense that day...
That couldn't have been my car - I did the drive on Saturday and we didn't start climbing until Sunday. (If you see a brown Subaru like mine, check the license plate - mine is VI511A4 - as in "Grade Six, 5.11, A4".)
We did Rainbow Buttress on Monday, nine hours car to car, of which probably 3 hours were taken up in climbing its eight pitches. Handren gives it three out of three stars in his book. We thought that, if it was closer to the road, it would get two. Build in a long approach and a really, really long descent up, over and then down some remote and gorgeous Red Rocks back country, and it's three stars for sure.
We were both sore the next day from the huge elevation gain and then loss (wait until your knees are over 50 and you'll better understand that last part).
Nice on Resolution. When you were done with the day did you walk off?
Great weather.
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I meant to say that Sunday was the day we saw your Subaru.
That's a really beautiful wall up there. I have contemplated doing Rainbow Buttress. I suppose a good option for the descent would be to rap Leavitation if you can find the anchors, but I hear that is challenging. That trudge out of Oak Creek from the very top is not so pleasant. Yet that trudging is the trademark of those canyon routes that top out.
It took us three hours to descend from Mt Wilson down Oak Creek and we were really psyched to get the mysterious and technical part out of the way before it got dark. The guide doesn't say anything about this descent so Dave resorted to a number of longtime locals for beta, which was pretty key to getting down. There were a number of gullies that cliff out which we were advised to avoid. I guess a lot of people descend south into First Creek but I've heard the boulder hopping is ridiculous in that canyon. Luckily my knees were partially saved for the future by Dave, who insisted on carrying the rack and rope on the descent. Something about training to keep up with Alex... That made it a lot easier for sure. It's nice to climb with a certified badass who needs to train.
As for Resolution Arete. I think it is absolutely a 3 star adventure route. An amazing location, varied climbing, intriguing line, fairly small rack required (I don't recommend skipping the #4cam like we did), a Stellar summit which is the highest in Red Rocks, no chance of crowds, and just an all around good day of fun. The crux 5.11 roof felt hard and bouldery, but is easily aided on a couple solid cams. The 5.10+ pitch just after was very challenging for me. Dave led and linked those pitches and as a result they probably felt harder than if I was leading. The route gets a bad rap for rock quality and quality of climbing plus the long descent, I would put that aside and do it. It was refreshing to climb a RR route what didn't have any bolts. Lady Wilson's Cleavage looks cool too but to me Resolution is THE line on Wilson. That said if I didn't have a solid partner who would simul behind me up into the 5.10 range my opinion might be different. Pitching it all out would be pretty time consuming eventhough a lot of the belays would be terrain or tree belays.
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I meant to say that Sunday was the day we saw your Subaru.
Yep, that was us. We did a 5 pitch route called Solar Flare. And it started out warm enough to hike in shorts (even in short shorts). But it did get a little chilly toward the end of the day.
The walk off from Wilson sounds epic. Someday, someday...
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I think it was Lev29 where you stare out at Resolution all day long.
That route is on the list for sure.
BTW, is that a mullet I see?
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8079/8282765803_d31898fcef_b.jpg)
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I did Rainbow Buttress a few years ago and also felt that the descent bumped the climb up a star. One of the highlights of the day was sliding down the pink tiger striped slabs in the wash. The top part of that canyon is beautiful. Cool to see so many folks on here have an affinity to Red Rock. I'm going week after next. I'll try to post up some pics.
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nelkins, post up pics.
From a desert trip some time in the 2000s
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/16490596950_3384d5afd3_c.jpg)
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(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/16490596950_3384d5afd3_c.jpg)
Sans Mullet?
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definitely. These are years apart.