MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on February 11, 2013, 04:21:57 PM
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I am finally - after 9 days - emerging from the moaning cavern of mucus to hopefully be feeling like my old self or at least a close facsimile by the weekend. Providing there is continuous improvement, KC and I are headed to the monzonite for the long weekend. With any luck we should be climbing Fri, Sat and Sunday.
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Sat thru Mon for us.
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Nice- solid Valley granite for me son >:D
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Pinnacles???
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Pinnacles???
That's a different site/forum ;)
We shall return after a brief respite - got a whole list of onsights to draw down on :)
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Onsights where? You out of routes you haven't done at Pinns, so you must be talking about onsights at the Alabama Hills?
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Onsights where?
wide open on all fronts!
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*like*
Forecast is looking good!
Mtnyoung, you should come over too.
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Okay I have to know. We have been in the climbing shop here in Lone Pine twice (both times we've been here) and the owners want absolutely nothing to do with us. Getting info about the Hills from either of them is like pulling teeth. I jokingly asked about a secret guidebook today since they only sell the same one we already have. He said there are over 1000 routes out there. Our book is obviously a greatest hits with only 275 routes. I was trying to share our experience on one climb today where the bolt count was off by three and the lower off listed as 115 feet was about 140. My 70m rope is able to lower 125 feet(they cut it long at the factory) and we still had to stop and add 12 feet of runners to the end for a successful lower. There was also another route that went straight up the face from where I diverged to the mussy hooks for the route I was on and it looked cool but of course there is no info. He said there was some kind of an app you could get for your phone but offered nothing further. He had no comment on anything else we said. I asked how the gear climbing was...nothing. How these people stay in business is a mystery to me!
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I've never heard of a climbing shop there, what's it called and where is it?
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The internet shows an Elevation Climbing, is that them? They have a web site and that says they're on Facebook. You should post up - they should hear that they've got a problem.
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The internet shows an Elevation Climbing, is that them? They have a web site and that says they're on Facebook. You should post up - they should hear that they've got a problem.
That is them. The shop is right on the corner of main street where the only traffic light is situated.
You are right - I should post on facebook. I was just curious to know if any of my compadres has had a similar experience.
We had a blast climbing today and plan to keep after it over the next two days until our fingers are raw :)
I may try some of the gear climbs if the rock looks solid enough - not sure I trust it here like I did in Jtree.
Supposed to get together with Rob and his crew tamale for dindin.
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The app is a mobile version of mountain project. You can download all the climbs for an area and use it with no cell service. It has come in handy for me many times. And you can post comments about climbs, send out a search party for a lost helmet, Etc.
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JC and I chatted about this while having dinner Sat night. No idea. We've never had an off-putting experience like that in the years we've been visiting the area. Before dinner, the guy in there even gave us the 411 on discounts. ???
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In other news...
We got in a few this morning...
Sorry we left so quick there. She wasn't feeling good after the nosebleed.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8488598032_3388b8fa64_c.jpg)
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Sorry we left so quick there. She wasn't feeling good after the nosebleed.
No worries brudda - we had a blast climbing and hanging out with you two!
JC takes a no hands rest while onsighting his first 8 in the Hills - Muffy 8*** and has a chat with Munge while he is finishing up an onsight of Death of a Cowboy 7**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cbqqK16CI1ifLNy3FlIZK2XWC1gcSudTUVa0QR95FBGIEpLxbRQPfpt6Lgqz0vvnfJaCvJiJ2Hw0cFa7P1HzUofzH4ddFZf3PohQ1KDdPOt_AHlSvTeAL15kZxZ4IhOb3KbhajQFs7q0xcVNExkHBz=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Munge and Sabrina on Muffy
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eCS7oH-VhgfhOATqW0lHb3wOTviePpzPUi81Z55Ypr3FRJN5-xuFK94mEYnzjUiNpIC96YL2doNldEz3lXYR5v3658u_DA4dZwO5snJyR3jmGHVCUwLOw-A7eFPWLbHrAt31EXNHHsdlevu9LOg4Ag=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC combines a sweet undercling with a tasty sidepull on Death of a Cowboy
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dOshp70CLLOZwWnvvLHvJmwF-aMXu-XSz7_3Z-PO0LU61u_w-XLGhzBmd28H3C6VWBu61--E-QbjBiQHGOksyaZsnIRh3m5s7Pv2UmcZQ6GFHomvrM7xpWvX3zHTA1CseJ4wty1a4buNcXFPNgmtdL=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
I added 15 onsights to my tick list, including one decent gear climb. I scoped out several other gear climbs that we will definitely do next time. We climbed way higher and harder than our previous trip to the Hills. There should be some good shots of us on Shark's Fin Arete forthcoming - a professional photographer promised he'd send us some stuff...
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I've got 25 onsights in the Hills now - ride 'em cowboy!
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nice, we need to work on the 10s next trip. Really leverage the well protected opportunities there.
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Just got back from a great trip to the Hills. 21 onsights. 4 more and I would have doubled the # on my list! This trip was an early bday present from KC. We kicked it up a notch with several 8's including the only two four stars, a few more gear climbs and some onsights by KC. More later...
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We had a great trip to the Hills. Weather and temps were perfect and the climbing was a sweet treat as usual. We got to Lone Pine around 1:00 Thursday and were climbing by 2:00. I started on Hoodgie 7*** described as "sporty" in the guidebook. I knew the bolts were spacious with only 4 in about 80 feet. Routes with an R in the Hills are ridiculous from what I've seen. There is a Regular Route 6R next to Hoodgie that has one bolt and a 2" piece possible in a horizontal about halfway up. Hoodgie was enough of a scarefest for me - especially for a warmup!
Next we did Ankles Away 8**** with 9 bolts, a tricky crux and just slightly longer than Hoodgie. There are only 3 "4 star" climbs in the Hills. To get 5 stars you have to climb 10a or harder. I bagged the 7**** Rotten Bananas last trip, so that only left Ankles and Bananarama.
KC on the sweet underclings at the start of Ankles Away 8****
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fGrmEiL8ePDmiTRfoknKPluSOhZGNwg3PABx80rpKOr8wvQbsFQGZW3B7iSTTFBuSr74THMDBQS7_aJ0tPl1jz2KFs7Ml_QUi6llc7N-nlyKjkThFl5flHLXq5R2AP5iW0yESSxHPm-ftKnM4LIbQW=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
After thoroughly enjoying Ankles we did Copyright Infringement 7*. It had one bolt followed by some sweet slingable features and bomber pro. What a great way to end the day! I'd give it 2 stars.
Collage of Copyright Infringement 7*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c7PS7Edtj8o5oMubFtgfUdJVh6Ot6NdJHQ5W_0O0K0fZgwEmEANTsNy1DI9zWpO8MjrpSqpS8zARZvUbxW_exGYKyFtm_jO51p7u8wEQ1Wy-EuJgZcYL1DddIC2KxoXVLxiWefO5lK2SKq_9UIn7y7=w510-h567-no?authuser=0)
Day 2 we started at the Penguins followed by the Candy Store and on to Cattle Pocket and the Corridors. The most hiking we did was about 5 minutes at the Penguins - gotta love those bumper belays. Here is the list:
The Penguins
Goodbye Blue Sky 7**
Candy Store
Pure Cane 8**
Werner’s Werthers 8*
Crack It Up 7*
KC led Tootsie Pop 6* - solid lead!
1st Boulder Unknown 8
Cattle Pocket
Jackie’s Rack 6**
Corridors
Rider of the Frontier 7*
Ride Lonesome 3●
Here's a few of my favorite pics
Placing bomber gear on Crack it Up 7* - pretty mellow for the grade and worthy of more than one star.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fQVZHKpWPd41wvEu2kpj-TKch-IXMkxUyzAW79iZOzkIjeHMMalHaE7-MQdlo_Fi6xkLGP2LGZjNrHUIWh497nr_HhvvQHmBbbmI6rMQC4ZuyhfwtNqhpFqdqQCEuCbjxz3fGzdwugl9lxbgrxduZD=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC on the Unknown 8 at the Candy Store
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fP9UzbQnhNRBZsgvAOSvWETpy28mDGxebhe9FC1pT0ZQgFrSZv0m4JWK0pZtvtyTbFIZoglVvnjyHpUumeYQFlPayiai1B9dR4omzI1CISSqYNGaBAcb15CFAo9JIHHTgUEf5CcjqMgoEHSxv3HEod=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Caressing Jackie's Rack 6** - definitely one of my favorites this trip.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3emogQ1gdNL0WgBW2BeTQPXdpFo8hETTn58kpTxxnuAd8oWIWPbJjy27gjnFYQ-ORSnlgCZnTIrqK6Uns5koA_kv0rxPpWed_zCQWSg8sn9sF5I9KQdmvpyJVoEOz0VLEf7rJ15rCSzqDgUnFfkvRxZ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Day 3 we continued gettin' after it. We started with a couple of great climbs at the Hideout to warm up. I would have liked to do a few more there but we wanted to save some strength and energy for the Shark's Fin and Bananarama.
The Hideout WestUnknown 6**
Snowball 7**
Shark’s Fin
Coral Sea Adventure 7**
Tall Wall
Bananarama 8****
Lost Eye to the Moon
KC led Eye For An Eye 6** pitch 1
Corridors
First Corridor – Unknown 6*
Sand Flow 7*
Paul's Paradise
The North Face 8*
Snowball is a great climb with slabby unprotected moves up a boulder to a bolt just above the overhang - now crank a fun power move to a delicious face above.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fghGJ2NaFnu3BWuv7J-BsIZeMt8lNqiLQyMaCaSkCR4jMimNjwigCmhb2IG-zpJFoz308QHdGRGU0M084OEPqQjGdoop5UxikRh14JscJLg6TSFNqlJmdrhej4duxh22USUMxnsx0aXckQNfz0OZem=w371-h497-no?authuser=0)
Committing to the steep on Bananarama
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cyrGu540UGquErOWJO1ITXDmDfM-G7xrd7kr7_WTjVdxllMSrJJ3w2-I_nszbbmlNInpFLD5odz8fLazizCKZZbiLZ6yaxQ2ansamQbMHe6zo2qwiVEIPOT1WABIfERPoHdjgVv45837w-SgLfRdH6=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Our last day we cranked off a few more fun routes and then got on the road to get home by supper time.
It was a windy morning. We drove down Ghosts Road to look for the Totally Noobular Tower. We found it easily and hopped on Burnt Bacon and Beans. We both onsighted this one. It's a new route that needs just a little cleaning up and is well protected - a great warmup. We walked the wash from there to the Leaning Tower of Pizza and jumped on Deep Dish. I definitely want to go back to this area and do some more routes. Deep Dish was an interesting mix of slab and face. We wrapped up the morning on an Unknown 2* at Paul's Paradise. Great cool down route with slabby moves to thick dinner-sized plates. We both thought this one should be named Platy Galore.
Totally Noobular Tower
Burnt Bacon and Beans 5*
Leaning Tower of Pizza
Deep Dish 6*
Paul’s Paradise
Unknown 2*
KC threads for a rappel after onsighting Burnt Bacon and Beans 5*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3drdvHwfSv-rLN20wq5Z0x2ej5zS3-FmgX4b2cvvyPkVk9CUMza6gpwoQv6NAHC0cPqVHC_AyFwNoWfclNJWxY2Z9dZAKG0IC1ah1tzXgrKKTy4A8JM7ssrIyuJjsCN6wYLDYIoo-5bv3pwepIZpTJx=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
With raw fingertips and satiated souls we reluctantly climbed in the vehicle and hit the dusty trail.
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I have got to get down there again. The problem is I get down toward the south and Joshua Tree juuusssstttt puuulllsss me in. Maybe after the pass opens.
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I have got to get down there again. The problem is I get down toward the south and Joshua Tree juuusssstttt puuulllsss me in. Maybe after the pass opens.
I had to pull the wheel hard not to head there myself. I love them both - JTree for gear and nice cracks, the Hills for bodaciously featured, well protected bolt climbs AND let's not forget film history.
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when the Pass opens it's too warm in the Bamas
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Yep- and then that pesky Whitney Portal calls you to real granite and alpine
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when the Pass opens it's too warm in the Bamas
We'll be there chasing the shade - another skill we learned in Pinnacles climbing during the supposed off season.
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Yep- and then that pesky Whitney Portal calls you to real granite and alpine
We prefer faux granite, warm weather and reasonably low altitudes :)
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We had a blast in the Hills for the long Weekend. I got 17 onsights and KC led something each day. Thursday afternoon we did Burnt Penis 7* and Yaum 7***. Friday we started on Ted Shred 8* - a nice gear lead, Split 8*, Magic Pig 8** and KC led the unnamed Slab 6* at Paul's Paradise. We ended with Panzarotti 7** and Crone 7**. Saturday we started with a new route at the Hideout - Little Miss Sunshine 7* followed by Whippersnapper 8**, Escargot 8*** and Back Trail 6**. KC led Honey Bunny 7* and we finished the day with Cowabunga Baby 8*. Sunday we did Chocolate Mice 8***, Haf n Haf 7* (a gear lead until the crack runs out - then one bolt on chossy slab) and KC led Sweet Pete 6**. We finished the day with DXM 8*** and Ghost Dance 8**.
Monday I got one last onsight (another new route) - Chalk-A-Dile Dumb Deed 7* and then KC led the unnamed slab 2* on Paul's Paradise we call Platy Galore. She also led and got to the last bolt on Ranger of the North 6**( a SOLID effort!). I remembered the exit moves being above grade on that one. I have led it three times and this time I tried a different line that still felt like 5.9 to me. There are a number of climbs in that area (the Corridors) that are off - grade-wise. They are all FA's by Tim Standing. It's perplexing to me since I have climbed many of his other routes that are both fun and accurately graded. Maybe he was "goin through a phase". We had a blast regardless. We both cooled down by leading Rhythm on the Range 5**. Temps were perfect and other than some gusty winds on the last two mornings the weather was amazing.
KC on Crone 7**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c3y8qgYZyMxNRLEj8afkNSNmHZ3_dKKhKW8K4niT2ImEQXi5ryOPJQhw6D71UC6-cO96dKWTihpUGSvVLh9xiQ912MtuAaJ6lFgevLbvjGKY-n70yD_riL0W0_EFqmogqPspwEonHFb47OC49aGXon=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC with his needle and thread on Haf n Haf 7*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d2HO3yOjLOFswSjKIW7GGWo9mZkNpc-ZEV0KQbKFzpMyC4cy1DUFGwOtiItazjqZJJ38LPOgRip4eAq-emAijjHI9OeyQIxhErznfPfNOuy4htPDR9UVWjYeCfL2l8OkDmp9-f2PWqXAEqC_gW3wCV=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Money shot of KC starting Escargot 8***
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbp247Bsx0OS9qjHW8DYLkQROdmZY6xmuvSpMUU6KrsPMpKtZk1WpK6m9PV_QyZLg4ZYuf13HNOAbqCZiaZrNDeZyLEvibeojVU8ixS8MI0_bgmHvJp6u1sJy511Jmvy4z_pMH-IRFI1rHbMpeRHfB=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Congratulations!
ALABMAHILLSCLIMBING.COM
is available. Snap it up before someone else does. Just $10.99*
Just saying ;)
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Just saying ;)
Why in all caps? Do you need to yell to have someone hear you in the 'Bama Hills?
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copy and paste from godaddy.com results.
shows it's real and possible.
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Just saying ;)
what would I do with it bubba?
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Microsite!
load an SMF forum.
Wave of the future.
The overarching Supertopos are dead to real climbing content. RC.com? what's that?
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Can create a hills forum here if people want one.
Should we?
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No way- munge wants a other micro site. Another site means another post count, another persona, etc. :-|
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load an SMF forum.
What's SMF brah?
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Nice, John. All of your trips there have inspired me to get back. We're taking a family vacation over the second week of June and we'll spend two days in them hills.
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Hills in June? = hot
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Hills in June? = hot
I've climbed there in early June and been OK.
I'll make you a deal: you try not to roast on El Cap and I'll try not to roast in them Hills (we'll be there the same time).
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Nice, John. All of your trips there have inspired me to get back. We're taking a family vacation over the second week of June and we'll spend two days in them hills.
Thanks Brad. I seem to push a little harder each time we go and it has been great for my climbing. I can't wait to go back. Kat and I went there in August last year and still had a blast. We just chase the shade or sun depending on the temps - just like Pinns :)
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The Hills were fine for two days as long as we stayed in the shade (actually it was one evening and one morning). Some of the ratings there seem way off though. I led one 5.10a that felt 5.9 and another 10a that felt 10c. On adjacent rocks.
Here's Katie following Hoodgie:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/9043333796_faf3c74fa5_c.jpg)
We then headed south to camp near the PCT before climbing the San Bernadino County high point, Mount San Gorgonio. Katie is working on her knee, so just Tricia and I did the 17.4 mile round-trip hike to bag this highpoint (in the second photo, that is Mount San Jacinto in the background):
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5493/9035492964_754db16d5e_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/9033286259_7f0cf10da0_c.jpg)
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nice!
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The Hills were fine for two days as long as we stayed in the shade (actually it was one evening and one morning). Some of the ratings there seem way off though. I led one 5.10a that felt 5.9 and another 10a that felt 10c. On adjacent rocks.
Here's Katie following Hoodgie:
We then headed south to camp near the PCT before climbing the San Bernadino County high point, Mount San Gorgonio. Katie is working on her knee, so just Tricia and I did the 17.4 mile round-trip hike to bag this highpoint (in the second photo, that is Mount San Jacinto in the background):
Thanks for sharing. Did you guys do Ankles Away right next to Hoodgie? I love how the term sporty is used for "spaciously" bolted routes in the Hills and R is reserved for the really crazy stuff. I love the pic of you and Tricia on the peak - did you guys carry that sign all the way up there :)
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No, the sign was there, we just held it up.
We went to Hoodgie and I led all five routes there, starting from the left and moving route by route to the right. This included Ankles Away. We then went over to the 5.9 and 5.8 two rocks over (the intervening stuff was in the sun).
The first day I led six routes on Tall Rock.
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No, the sign was there, we just held it up.
We went to Hoodgie and I led all five routes there, starting from the left and moving route by route to the right. This included Ankles Away. We then went over to the 5.9 and 5.8 two rocks over (the intervening stuff was in the sun).
The first day I led six routes on Tall Rock.
You mean you didn't make the sign?
We love the routes we've done on Hoodgie 1-3-5 from L to R. I still need to lead Holy Shiite Muslim and the Original Route - that's an R and I haven't done any R's in the Hills yet.
I also need to go back and lead Escargot again without the sun right in my face - then I'd like to try Mon Cherie too(those are the two you did after Hoodgie).
I've done 3 of the 6 on Tall Wall - Rotten Bananas, Bananarama and Spur - loved those arête upper moves and the giant sling feature at the top! Love those **** bananas too!
Sounds like you got sandbagged on a Tim Standing route(10b that felt like c) - join the club! and enjoyed a Raleigh Collins route(10a that felt like 9).