MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on June 03, 2013, 12:27:28 PM
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Well, if you know me and KC - you know we're not scared of a little heat. We got up at the crack of "WTF am I doing up this early on a Sunday" yesterday and headed to our beloved Pinns. We were amazed to see other cars in the lot, since we passed through the gate at 7:32. We talked briefly with a pair of climbers getting ready to go do Son of Dawn - whew...no competition for our objective. We were shocked again when we started up the approach trail and saw packs stashed below Alias Bandit Bench. There was a male/female couple on route as we wound our way along the base of the Machete - not sure which route they were on - maybe Desperado Chute-Out. The man waved and I said good morning but I didn't hear a reply from the woman belaying.
Old Original is a route I have been clamoring to onsight for over a year. When I started climbing again and pouring through the guidebook, I was drawn to it like a moth to flame. Then we met Brad a few months later and discussed the route a little over dinner in Soledad. KC was very hesitant at that time, especially concerning the exposure and the descent. Brad suggested we do the descent in reverse so we'd be familiar with it. Sound Advice. Well, we took care of that problem a few weeks ago with my onsight of Fish Breath Arete. Now it was time for KC to conquer her fear of the scant protection and exposure on Double O. I think we both imagined pitch 4 as a sidewalk width of ridge with vertical drops on both sides - especially since the guidebook said unbelievable exposure. I have to say that some of the other pitches felt equally or more exposed - especially with the near total lack of protection - a lone bolt or two to keep you from going "all the way". As I started pitch 2, I called back to KC that she might want to lead this one - since following with that much rope out would essentially feel like a solo. She assured me she'd be fine despite my repeated "holy shit!" comments upon seeing what was ahead. I have to say that this climb was an absolute blast! - better than any adventure I've ever been on :)
We knocked off the first 3 pitches in short order and when I started up and over pitch 4...well...let's just say that what I had been imagining in my mind for over a year was much hairier/scarier than what was in front of me.
We did have one unexpected thing happen on pitch 4. I was about 30 feet from the anchor when KC yelled that I was nearly out of rope. I stood still while she removed her anchor from the manzanita and moved up enough for me to finish. I let her know that I was totally comfortable at that point and a sitting body belay would be fine.
If anyone is curious about the rappel stations for pitch 5 - anchor 1 is 63 feet down and anchor 2 is 95 feet.
From anchor 2 it is a full 60 m rope rappel if you don't want to do any scrambling to get to flat ground to pull your rope.
My tape was at 98 feet on that one. Why was I measuring? Someone at the AAC climb-in asked me if I would.
I suppose you could use a 50m for that 2nd rappel but I wouldn't recommend it - since you'd have to scramble down about the last 30 feet and it would be precarious to pull the rope from the top of that scramble.
Does anyone buy 50m's anymore?
We had one mishap on the route. KC managed to bang her left knee on a big block climbing the South Tower, so I was glad she had asked for a belay. Luckily the cut was small but I swear the banging echoed - ouch! She rapped down the other side and I downclimbed. I needed to warm up my climbing muscles for the Middle Tower.
The Middle Tower rock was blistering hot! Everything else before that had been fine.
I didn't need any chalk since my fingers seared onto each hold - in fact I never used any chalk at all on the whole route :)
We thought this might be the last pitch for us - but when we both got to the top and looked ahead, it was too good to resist.
I initially went all the way to the base of pitch 9 but then "climbed" back up to the notch below the short headwall where I thought KC might want a spot. She downclimbed that short section just fine - but it made both of us feel better to have less rope out - especially since there is no pro.
I proceeded up pitch 9, trailing the rope for KC and we summited the final pitch - yea!
I couldn't resist going to the top of the boulder on the North Tower for my finale.
We were getting a weird echo from the surrounding rocks and swallows darted past us several times.
It was a special treat to see Fish Breath Arete from our final summit vantage point.
KC single-rope rapped off my ballast and then I downclimbed pitch 9 so we could reverse pitch 8 and start the descent.
The shade of the gully was a welcome relief and we stopped briefly in the meadow to snack and hydrate before crossing the 4th class ledge. We packed up at the end of the ledge and then proceeded to weave our way down the lower gully, being extra careful of the PO reaching out for us in multiple places. It was a great feeling getting into the caves and we hooped and hollered a few times as we worked our way through those last sections. We stopped to talk briefly with several groups of hikers on the way out. It was 96 when we started the car around 3:30. We'd started from the parking lot at 8:05 in 70 degree temps.
I just want to say how proud I am of KC for following me on all these pitches - YOU ROCK woman!
This was one fine day!!!***
JC checking the route description along the way on pitch 3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dNx7WLBYtOOkbVV__iXb5UDhVZgjuXzu5BwnPBiWoDl98oNSuNYXPY65dPxjEuiCwXb7PaH991KnArWphxNGpBXSkCUrPQBopXqDRs3Y5YEETr_E358bKSmDbKJ4g8Zrkb8TGD7YTgM0Pl04-wc7x6=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows pitch 4
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fD82D5vt8MV_hWUT38-q5yTRoTOud6fsoT4ARX48xJ9K7Dqkv0po3eB49tCOjeOc1zjCOSTTcpK6jkwCwQybj4HyctRiPW0MAOWGDLNqlvLWENbxkKdQu8wqT0zAUmuDT4mXbdRSaA5pFEjevXmnyK=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC belays KC to the end of pitch 4
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ewdRPCVU_7folJdtn8vLnc7XG0vn_Ao6YaWtFK1MksMMz74X8XKpypcaS1vQF4yjg3lOR8m7urmkzh2Fyw-1JzDUZ6EdZbP0SK6i3CgLPfIqDBw68mmj3hO1UuK-DemNvRghX2xVSKe4a4TRQHellO=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows pitch 8
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f1wyQNYzhyV-ShKdlG3LbxMVJqJps-BnJgVu6RCnrGryW9d7ZdF9XLScM1_7YFXinFOi0qvHmnBfsZ58Q7AKB9UsbNFLD0PeXfW5LAy7yztZDjG9xqCPm12ga8Se3XZojGbmTf6hDb04Dag-rhm_5f=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC with the 9 finger salute on the summit boulder of the North Tower
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cg-LWa-tYzhK50RnHNA4MKlZ1p4Oo41IPTNvjvF4B1e_bs6Z22buM27yKOUJy717N7jfJX112lnJJS6Rr14YD4xBc8u3aiUrIDal1eQkJ4c7_Bz5l_42ptwnbR7eS-66QHxCXWzhxZYJDQuTQz43Je=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC raps the Middle Tower so we can start the descent
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dfq-sNAzCGMx8vJkaa7tSH8_cTs2cqx54aYYAhyiZnGFt1oyV3Iduw0hEFXbtRDU7ehxODS010RiQ8t4TKci3z8N4kSesxhvsT9a6I6AvTCDkM_Zfx7qYc3OnM0bfTcKT6OilYcFtIw4wz-sPOrM7a=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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you two are fanatics! :)
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You're nuts. Congratulations on finally doing this dream route. But what you accomplished doesn't change the fact that you're crazy. You two may be the nicest presence on this forum, but that also doesn't change the fact that you're both looney tunes.
NINETY SIX DEGREES?!?! WHAT IN THE HECK WERE YOU THINKING?
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Cool, uh wait...
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...weave our way down the lower gully, being extra careful of the PO reaching out for us in multiple places.
This is a truly great line - we've all had that experience.
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you two are fanatics! :)
You're nuts. you're crazy. you're both looney tunes.
I resemble those remarks :)
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This is a truly great line - we've all had that experience.
It is a cool maze of a problem. I can see where the PO might be more of a problem in rainy years. We definitely did our share of dancing around, between and over it. It was underfoot, alongside and even overhead. KC kept me entertained by telling me she needed help through some of the 4th class "drops". I'd say "use this for your foot, this for your hand, hang off here, stretch to here, etc. and then she would do it her own way and be just fine.
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A classic day for sure!
Does anyone buy 50m's anymore?
I don't buy them but many of my ropes eventually become them.
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I go up there in late November before the rains come and wait for late light.
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Had a great relaxing day today on OO with KC and Rosie
We were at the gate at 7:25 and on the approach shortly after.
We did all 9 pitches with Rosie leading 2,3,4,7 and and soloing 6 and 9.
We soloed the North Tower together while Kat took pics from the Middle Tower summit.
Warm and breezy on top.
Car gauge only registered 92 when we got back around 3:00.
Lots of hikers and a clueless group of climbers at the Flumes.
Kat leads p2 Old Original
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fP1iDuxWTAVm0ol0TRbLY4MIHarH1YMDCiLT-2RM8OJlO0x_7tlUIzErUvkzQmU_eqDuHHSLuRGJSKsyOEFTqkwL16aCK65Ftv0b0jg0vzJZHuYdV-I2o-zcbEw25cTpEhT7z45G8V5CYiReqsyH4c=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
Rosie on the North Tower Old Original
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cDHtdGo0CeNPSg-ddBUNI2ROinpPX-pfyVRfJfAyO-NFa1cFKFNYYe8B7uimwGi-Ln9z3xX_nnagrZM_JZWaZFl8PGE1ZrXd_vrvt-Cm_J1Znbz6RXrqjugrEcmIBC7fIZXAt-rd3tIk1OFTTnXu8H=w700-h582-no?authuser=0)
Rosie and Kat on Middle Tower Old Original
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cDHtdGo0CeNPSg-ddBUNI2ROinpPX-pfyVRfJfAyO-NFa1cFKFNYYe8B7uimwGi-Ln9z3xX_nnagrZM_JZWaZFl8PGE1ZrXd_vrvt-Cm_J1Znbz6RXrqjugrEcmIBC7fIZXAt-rd3tIk1OFTTnXu8H=w700-h582-no?authuser=0)
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We were at the gate at 7:25...
Yuck.
...and a clueless group of climbers at the Flumes.
What were the obvious signs?
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What were the obvious signs?
How 'bout someone being belayed on Adam's Apple from the bottom of Tilting Terrace and that leader calling down "hey...could you lower me? I need to get a clip"
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How 'bout someone being belayed on Adam's Apple from the bottom of Tilting Terrace and that leader calling down "hey...could you lower me? I need to get a clip"
But what guidebook did they have?
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gear is expensive
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But what guidebook did they have?
classic
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But what guidebook did they have?
Didn't have my binocs but I'm pretty sure they all had their cell phones out...later I wasn't like ya know paying real close attention ya know as I um was like texting while I um reversed pitch 8 unroped...
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Crux Luv and I left the parking lot at 9:00 this morning to climb all nine pitches of Old Original. It was a little toasty but we did it. I led pitch 1 and 2 for the first time as well as 7, 8 and 9. Crux Luv led 3 and 4. We were tired hiking out but we had big smiles on our faces. ;D
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a little toasty
we were tired
big smiles on our faces. ;D
Understatements of the day. ;D
Such an awesome adventure!
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Nice job tuff chix! As for me...ribit...:)
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Nice ladies.
:thumbup:
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...ribit...:)
You ended up being the frog in the toilet??
Poor baby.
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As for me...ribit...Smiley
Apparently stupidity comes in threes. (You making the third solo of an obscure route)
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Congratulations.
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Apparently stupidity comes in threes. (You making the third solo of an obscure route)
No route is completely worthless - it can always serve as a bad example.
Particularly relevant in this case. Insults abound - obviously mostly unrecognized or ignored as per the norm.
Now I also realize that this thread has also officially been jacked - but clink started it...and after all...it is my thread.
Part of the problem is he can't distinguish between 28 and 30 :)
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...and after all...it is my thread.
THEY only let you think that munchkin.
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THEY only let you think that
the voices in my head?