MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on June 08, 2013, 05:48:07 PM
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It was 105 when we left the west side an hour and a half ago and now it is 60 at the house in the fog. We knocked out two onsights today on the Tunnel Wall. It was 76 when we left the parking area at 8:20. I thought Tunnel Wall would be a good spot on a hot day since it's usually shady when we pass by there and it is covered with thick moss and lichen. It was about 3/4 shaded when I started up the Tunnel Traverse. I have spied the first bolt on several occasions and always thought it looked old but okay. It's pretty high up so I was definitely wanting something solid for that first clip. I placed my lucky yellow alien in a slot out to the right on the way to the first bolt. When I got to the first bolt let's just say - you can't always get what you want! The metal on the hanger is thinner up close than it looks from the ground, the bolt is either 1/4" or 5/16", everything is rust and it's loose. Comforting. Clipped and climbing for an early morning scare fest. I knew the Traverse joins Trainspotting after a couple bolts, so knowing that the FA was 1990 on that one (by the McC bros) gave me some confidence that the hardware higher up wouldn't be garbage. WRONG! Evidently they had only used modern hardware on the lower part of their route (two bolts) before the two routes merge. The climbing must have been easy enough for them that they didn't consider replacing the remaining 5 bolts - placed ??? years ago on the unknown FA of the Tunnel Traverse - I'm guessing maybe 1960's. All the bolts are substandard and rusty with what looked like homemade thin hangers. Every time I clipped one I told myself - "don't fall dude!" Brad has "possible cams" on the upper part of the merged portion on the topo so I had cams up to # 3 on my rack and an extra hanger and nut for the last hangerless bolt. I also had a wired nut to loop over the hangerless bolt if the hardware I had didn't fit. I placed two aliens in the crack and equalized them before committing to the upper bulge. Above the bulge is another bolt but of course it is garbage like all the rest. I never did find that hangerless bolt and didn't really care at that point since the moves had eased considerably.
The anchor hardware is modern/nice but it is two hangers only - not set up for a rappel.
I was relieved at the top but kinda pissed too since I wanted to do Trainspotting and knew in order to do that route I would have to rely on the same garbage hardware again. I figured if I did it once - why not twice!
I enjoyed the first two quality bolts on Trainspotting - the climbing in that initial section is sustained and balancy 5.7. After that, you merge back up with the Tunnel Traverse so it is kind of anticlimactic - although I had already forgotten the moves. I remembered what Steve said at Mr Mud's birthday celebration - at our age you can go back and do the same climbs and they are always onsights!
The sun was changing position quickly and by the time we scrambled down the second time - it was right in our faces for Babies On The Ceiling - plus the temps had come way up. Not today - oh well, I think we saved the best for last and will have to go back and hop on that one another time. It looks nice from below - AND all the hardware is modern.
We packed up and hiked down through the easy bake oven...
JC steps through on the Tunnel Traverse 5.6R...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egMm0RbFUnuk7nAHSJhmdUP4tNq3RdRcUtIuBvqtQhnskmLtOzioKZN76ARHZaow3usUpbl_mvPRZr6C1LfofdwHwmvAZ0xfWEJ7RTO9sbGiQtJwUVJlzSj50-oYzraWwDuqzk5ivzjIzcbNN-QLDw=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC enjoys the shade and the view on top of Tunnel Wall - bright lichen on Chaos Crag behind her...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fDS5kttPKWmEiYCFTeEc-AGx8f75IT3DH8JbL1qJ7qBWgjsaWklZ-uHAt7fzPOm9LoqM5uDobo48IuMzmI1ptHchqrV7dECoWGUj7o8yK3hkQOdfRoC4G6ATdK1bkFF76TdQZCGVHjEGjF7pjZKGoV=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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We'll have to get you some rebolting experience this coming season.
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We'll have to get you some rebolting experience this coming season.
I'm ready. This is a prime candidate - although no one but our little group has probably actually led this/these route(s).
I think Babies was established so Mr Mud and Munge wouldn't have to climb this crappy pro :)
The McC bros line and hardware were a nice addition to the wall.
I found the rock to be pretty reliable (in a relative Pinns sense) and there are some exciting moves.
Babies looks pretty sweet so I'm jazzed to go back and get on that.
I think these are the 6th and 7th/last bolts - I was too scared before this point to stop and document.
The 7th/last one actually looked pretty good compared to some of the others - at least it's tight.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cUiF11CQqwVlLfbr80BvMDsF5SUn8zS8j1okpPagOKJ_82fzc0wHJEz_T4B8DyYScw0D1p18hF2UGJmYMigb_NH1shqs7C_NeEwA_05vcPH1SgcFGWgP41kpChdJaJD8L-oyZRg8eGbRAIzGx_-WQN=w968-h507-no?authuser=0)
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New bolts are needed.
Maybe Mr.MC will pipe up on the FA of train spotting. Fun route.
To the left is another so-so route. newer bolts.
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That is an Uber, Munge, Sal route. I came in at the end and got all the glory.
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That is an Uber, Munge, Sal route. I came in at the end and got all the glory.
I'll probably run back up there this weekend and git 'er dun. There are several others nearby that I have been wanting to do as well. I was originally thinking of going to the granite but I don't feel like making the drive. May go back up on the Machete too and get some of those alternate pitches since we will have two days to play. It's only supposed to be low 90's :)