MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on June 16, 2013, 12:13:37 PM
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KC and I had two days of fun adventure at our home away from home. Friday we headed back up to Machete to do some of the alternate pitches. We started with The Hideout 5.4**. You realize why it is called the Hideout when you get there :)
I was expecting to find some ancient hardware since the FA was 1940 and there is no mention of a rebolt. I was glad but almost a little disappointed to see the bolts had been replaced. The route is far better than the standard first pitch of Old Original. The "new" first pitch is a means to an end but little more. KC followed the Hideout and then led through down OO's p3. Next up was the Rappel Bypass. Looking at it from the top I thought it looked pretty mellow after about 20 feet. When I got down to the first bolt, the next section was steeper than it looked from above. It's also covered with thick moss and lichen. The initial downclimb to the first bolt is by far the thinnest section and the first bolt was much lower than I would have expected. KC belayed me from the tree as I downled the pitch. I quickly realized that this route would be especially scary for the follower. IF we ever do it again, I will send KC down first and I will be the one to follow. The second bolt is close to the bottom of the waterchute where you start slanting down and across with no more pro for 300 feet of some scary 3rd class. Maybe it was the exposure, height, moss, lichen, some loose rock and dirt in spots...or a combination of everything - but I was not particularly enjoying the experience.
Even though Brad says it is 300 feet after the chute, I kept going until the rope ran out – which put me onto some pretty easy ground – minus the exposure. I untied at the end of the line and tied my pack to the rope so it couldn’t blow away while I was finishing the rest. The last part is pretty mellow and before long you are at the last little downclimb that leads to the base of the rappel. KC wasn’t “feeling it” so I knew she would probably not enjoy doing this pitch. After downclimbing that last short section to the base of the rappel (about 30 feet on good rock) - I started climbing back up. I called up to KC to let her know I was on my way - thankful that the wind wasn't blowing too hard. I imagined that time she spent waiting while I finished unroped might seem like an eternity. She said it actually didn't take me very long. I tied back in and scrambled/climbed back to the top – with the sun right in my face for the last part. Kat led p4 and we rapped down p5. After the rap I led the Rappel Reverse 5.7R with the sun in my face. The first bolt is pretty worthless (way too low to be meaningful) but the 2nd is right where you want it and the crux moves are pretty decent. I slung one knob as I traversed up and right to the lower intermediate anchor. We rapped off again and then rapped down into the upper gully so we could do Barber’s Backside 5.6. For some reason I did not enjoy that route. The climbing in the mossy water chute seemed better than the face to the right – big knobs sticking out from the moss - so I used a combination of those and the face holds to the right described in the guidebook. The sun was at a lousy angle too (right in my face) and that always detracts from the enjoyment of leading for me. We headed down the descent afterwards and I cleaned all the old dry rotted slings and cords from the small tree that we use to belay the 4th class ledge. I did not see any slings or leftovers on any of the other trees. Maybe that will discourage people from rapping off instead of following the standard descent.
We stopped at Big Bad West on the way out so I could do a quick solo just to say hello to my old friend and feel some nice movement before the drive home.
It was about 95 when we got back to the parking area around 4:00.
Saturday we headed straight to Tunnel Wall and roped up for Babies on the Ceiling 5.7R*. I had a little slip at the start a few feet up but caught myself and tried to regain my composure on the way to bolt 1. I found the initial moves off the ground a little bouldery and decided this climb was a bit stiff for a warm up, but I wanted to get on it before the sun drenched the face. It took me a few minutes to figure out the crux at the top and commit to the move(s). I thought this one was definitely on the hard side of 7 - bordering on 8. I'd be really curious to know who else has climbed this route. I also want to know the history of the name. Seems like that last bolt at the ceiling would have been a real challenge.
After Babies we went up to do Case Pinnacle. I was curious about Owl Be Back as well, so we stopped at The Owl along the way. Evidently I didn't listen very well as KC read the description of the ridge that hosts this short route. I was focused on the small pinnacle that sits just to the right of the Owl as you face it. I proceeded to scramble up along the base of the Owl to avoid some poison oak and then traversed right over to the notch between the Owl and the small pinnacle. I proceeded to climb the arête about 15 feet to the summit and then straddled the top before downclimbing. I didn't realize my mistake until we got home and I reread the description. I wouldn't recommend climbing this pinnacle - the rock is loose and hollow sounding - and I accidentally knocked off a big chunk with my foot (barely touched it) as I topped out.
I am curious about the history of the Owl since Spiral Deathcase isn't in Rubine's book. Who climbed Spiral Deathcase to discover the summit anchors? Was Who Who? bolted from free stance? - looking at it from the ground it seems like that 3rd bolt would have been awfully tough to drill. Can you help me out here Brad?Clint?Bruce?
Case Pinnacle was pretty cool. I have looked at it many times and was pretty sure I could arrange a Pinns rappel to get down without having to downclimb it. The book says it might be possible to protect with large cams so I figured Brad probably soloed up and down it. I took a 2, 3 and 4 camalot. I also had green to red aliens just in case there was any need on Tunnel Wall. With all the moss initially, I decided to climb this one in my approach shoes. I found a nifty slot for my lucky yellow alien early on and a decent spot for my #3 a bit higher. From there I slung the tiny tree at the top of the initial "ramp"(mostly to guide the rope), rounded the corner and surmounted the short water chute without pro. Above the water chute the climbing was more like 3rd or 4th class but I placed my red alien just because I could. The views from the top of Case are excellent! KC followed and then rapped off my body weight and I arranged a solid Pinns rappel for myself. Fun climb.
We stopped by Palisade Pinnacle on the way down. We had a taken a few minutes to decipher its location on the way up earlier. Ironically I had looked at this formation on many occasions thinking that the water chute might "go". I roped up just in case I could find some pro up in there somewhere. I did find and sling a juicy knob in the undercut below the headwall. The guidebook says to "boulder" through the notch to the top. Now I have to say that bouldering really is not my thing and it took me a few minutes to figure this one out. It seemed a bit difficult and very committing for 5.5 without any meaningful pro.
Forgive me for saying but I don't understand how this climb doesn't rate an R. It's 25 to 30 feet with no pro (other than the one sling knob - which isn't divulged - oops - spoiler alert!). At any rate it was an exciting move - probably not done in the best form - but hey - I got up the sucker :)
I was proud of KC for getting up this one clean.
We used the old bolt on top as an anchor but backed it up with body weight and set the rope for a Pinns rappel. The bolt proved to be solid and tight - an old Star Dryvin with a rusty, thin Leeper or maybe homemade - Is there a way to distinguish between the two? I always call them Leepers if the corner is cut off.
We both rapped a single strand and then I ran up the 4th class route and KC followed.
I am curious about the history of this pinnacle since it does not appear in Rubine's book and both FA's are unknown.
The light was perfect for some scenic pics from the top.
Another fun day for the memory cache.
JC on the crux of the Hideout 5.4**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fD-UOzjFA5NDibJmMjOld9Z5GJVjSd59-uCkjGQxf_UM1qAQmneyOe4hK3TfqS9khX8ku5VqYTVQ13AT88dl-ha1Zvuc_m5BChrcPfgbjlgyWprE2ZRPv73v7L1x3v1cx5QB1gJBAZIVRnxyIgEX39=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC leads through onto P3 of Double O after following the Hideout
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3em3zZcc1o1eIahLtQI2NMJqEJRUDOeJxh20R0uB6TojJIBXns3W7K7RnqS_yYk-ZDfrjnzwhMbb3D4tpRv7T9uWsc08zGkYHR-F8wKCf1EhE-gNDv9y1QPbvlzuzxj09ch2YVj5Z9Wc11VIXNa2O0R=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Looking back up the long Class 3 on Double O's Rappel Bypass
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3diKf_sGosOmv1qWR44H_4ckXsn60bG0QZNt41-YdC-nOxNS_jlXp0X9DXgrha_87HHb2s9xPoyq4UY48XG-YgIchY0fbI90fWoPo_YkBCAvNrf0YL0nbTTxmNtFYIlonfgX9RJ6N3M646XwygmlqtB=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Looking back up the Rappel Bypass after unroping - my pack is visible at the end of the line
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fRBued8-_a85BIAMAkunnQ_GJqDZ20ZAScfryDflrml8_u_VC7G4a4QQCfeXApkqkfwsVUtPKH2--On0_yJyK5EBf5J2BWoLhL9T5b8mPi2iNxit8hAQApZv3NvkJA0ZX75EMk_qYWjL3OfHSCFN-P=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leads the Rappel Reverse 5.7R
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d3pFIme7K_23BKdLXMgoGbA9wjiJTVDKmI2FCThtwIV7oc3u1WSneoJcyL-CGFuyo3PM0K3toUEI7TK_4IZuSypXGdhBpKZ3miHoz3cpoAVhdjAvsiiD5lGPKBDkLJ5PeOomy9uQ4v_3YtfdwtxvFb=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC on what he thought was Owl Be Back - evidently he will be! (Owlsley Oops)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eC6YYGdmfxfnxszwXvssuhgqQpjt6mCe0WPvKizFrrgvtQup5bd9Z7__tjWii23qxSiKwZWs2wUXln5zXLEibRpva2aA2veiM68n7wb7xVqfYhe8Ei5_DNrxA9jF_lmI83Di1PPGk20ycz5R1YkcRs=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leads Case Pinnacle 5.2* - decent gear, fun climb, climbing shoes NOT recommended (I did it in approach shoes)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dpm8lpz0ioaVlYgmB1-vqN-6sTw9X2Ky0KmG-XRvkcaRhEWB6TLNyot5qnOZ2uHVkpo0BhDBrIyd4Gn5RgiFuIUk6q1mNddbxxi7HPoSU5WzE-E0FseYhYA-bVKKHADI2TB59USTZB5-8-UYo4N18M=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Nice additions, John.
A lot of the routes that appear in the 2007 book and not in the 1995 book are "discovered" routes. Jeff Lane, Rob, and Clint Cummins helped me a lot with the High Peaks part of the book. While working on it, we climbed most anything that looked like it might have been climbed before to check it out. this resulted in the discovery of several of the routes you've asked about.
I have no idea whether your FA is an FA; your description of it was too brief for me to tell. On the other hand, if you're standing right at the base of a rock and what you just climbed isn't in the book, it's likely a new route. Would you email me a copy of that photo and could you give a better description (maybe relating to other, nearby routes), and I'll add it to the list of routes to start making a description for eventual posting in the sticky thread.
In other news, it looks like a good crew is coming up here for next weekend. Wanna join us (and pick up you replacement book in person so Vicki doesn't have to mail it)?
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Babies on the Ceiling came from the movie of the same name as Train Spotting.
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10-4 Brad.
Thanks Rob - it's been a loooong time since we watched that movie - we imagined some other source of inspiration.
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Was Who Who? bolted from free stance? - looking at it from the ground it seems like that 3rd bolt would have been awfully tough to drill. Can you help me out here Brad?Clint?Bruce? FA Bruce and Clint.
The bolt proved to be solid and tight - an old Star Dryvin with a rusty, thin Leeper or maybe homemade - Is there a way to distinguish between the two? I always call them Leepers if the corner is cut off.
A few unanswered questions remain...