Post by: mudworm on June 25, 2013, 04:29:41 PM
Just wanted to post in case others are interested in joining the party.
Post by: squiddo on June 25, 2013, 05:03:15 PM
I've been several times and plan on going back. yes, its epic. Incredible area and also some scary run outs. Consider the double set of small tricams to be needed. Never seen a place where one piece of gear is the difference between pro and solo.
I also know you have seen this as well- http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/896court.txt....clint has a few points but I'd like to add: Great rock, no regulations or PoPo, amazing views. If its hot YES its hard to find shelter/shade.
The Mike A book at PG has been blasted by the locals as being incorrect and possible dangerously so. Please note that I cant attest to that but the thread speaks to it on ST.
Power Dome is amazing
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-4hGKXkz/0/M/IMG_0121-M.jpg)
View down one PD route
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-n6bFDvB/0/M/IMG_0048-M.jpg)
And up one
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-6PbZF5R/0/M/IMG_0033-M.jpg)
THE VIEWS!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-zJzCp7n/0/M/IMG_0052-M.jpg)
That backdrop
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-gS3bhRK/0/M/IMG_0074-M.jpg)
Add some minor approach while you are out:
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-sNcz44P/0/M/IMG_0071-M.jpg)
Endless Rock
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-LT5jzdQ/0/M/IMG_0012-M.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/19129130_X4VjTm#!i=1489630955&k=29BQWqn)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/19129130_X4VjTm#!i=1489631245&k=VWMr9r4)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-F5bDwML/0/M/P1070036-M.jpg)
Post by: mudworm on June 25, 2013, 05:12:54 PM
Clint's link again: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/896court.txt . And here is his assessment:
Quote
My conclusion is that the place may be worth one trip in May or October, if you like 5.9 slabs, but it's not as good as Tuolumne Meadows. It's about a 4.5 hour drive -- more than Tuolumne (TM), less than Needles. Basically, I'd say it's not as good as TM; most of the people we saw there were Fresno locals. The domes are not very steep like TM, and the holes are not present on the steep faces. Trapper Dome is steep, but it's short -- both Nosferatu and Orgasm Addict are < 80'. Most of the routes at Courtright are in the sun all day, so you get roasted; in TM you can always choose shade or sun depending on the air temperature. It's hard to believe that most of the FAs were done in July and August.
Hmmm... almost sounds like a bad idea to visit this time of the year. Hmm...
Post by: squiddo on June 25, 2013, 05:19:38 PM
Thanks Marc! Good info and great photos.
Clint's link again: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/896court.txt . And here is his assessment:
Hmmm... almost sounds like a bad idea to visit this time of the year. Hmm...
Yes I didn't want to say that- its better than the Pinns now!!! It's better than winter? I'm planning a Fall trip:-)
Post by: mudworm on June 25, 2013, 05:24:10 PM
Yes I didn't want to say that- its better than the Pinns now!!! It's better than winter? I'm planning a Fall trip:-)Thanks for making me aware. Haven't had time to do research.
Post by: F4? on June 25, 2013, 07:32:51 PM
You should check them out.
I heard some guy just put a guidebook out.
Post by: mudworm on June 25, 2013, 08:39:48 PM
Post by: squiddo on June 25, 2013, 08:42:36 PM
SPH... do we have a group there? Mainly, it's the first week my nephew is here, I want to throw him into a group setting. Total immersion style.
The only "we" F4 has planned are some empty green labels
Post by: F4? on June 25, 2013, 08:44:14 PM
Little me? I'm working....no holiday for me.
Post by: mungeclimber on June 25, 2013, 09:44:58 PM
Post by: Brad Young on June 25, 2013, 09:48:23 PM
Post by: Jim on June 26, 2013, 08:35:23 AM
I've been to Courtright several times and found summer the best due to elevation. I'll check with the girls about heading there this year for the holiday weekend if you guys are still going. Have really enjoyed climbing there for quality of rock, locale, views and no crowds.
Jim
Post by: mudworm on June 26, 2013, 09:35:31 AM
My friend Jeanne said they had been there three years on July 4th and it had been perfect everytime. So maybe the hot summer does not start there until after the long weekend.
Post by: mynameismud on June 26, 2013, 09:53:47 AM
Post by: Aaron McDonald on June 26, 2013, 10:04:40 AM
Post by: mudworm on June 26, 2013, 10:14:40 AM
Talk about campground... So, is it not all dispersed camping there? Would you recommend any camping spot or should we make reservation?
Any references (online or PM)? Marc mentioned MA's guidebooks. I remember flipping through his Shuteye book a while back and was disappointed to find very little logistics information, so I'm not very optimistic on finding info in the Courtright book.
Post by: F4? on June 26, 2013, 06:04:18 PM
Watch out...Mungie might just appear @ your campfire.
Right Squiddo?
Post by: Aaron McDonald on June 27, 2013, 03:23:55 PM
The best guide is "Southern Sierra Rock Climbing Sequoia Kings Canyon" it is about $200 on Amazon or if you have an AAC membership you could check it out from their library(might be a little late). I also have Mike Arechiga's Courtright guide but had a hard time reading the topos. PM me your email address and I will send you the info I collected before our trip. I have some photo copies that might help. Trapper Springs camp groud does not take reservations, but I doubt you will need any. Wasn't even half full over Memorial day. I wish I could go! If you get there in the day light there is a camp site where you can almost belay someone on Spring Dome.
http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c5/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gDfxMDT8MwRydLA1cj72BTSw8jAwgAykeaxcN4jhYG_h4eYX5hPgYwefy6w0H24dcPNgEHcDTQ9_PIz03VL8iNMMgycVQEAIzTHkw!/dl3/d3/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnZ3LzZfME80MEkxVkFCOTBFMktTNUJIMjAwMDAwMDA!/?ss=110515&ttype=recarea&recid=64891&actid=29&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&navid=110130000000000&pnavid=110000000000000&cid=FSE_003705&pname=Sierra+National+Forest+-+Trapper+Springs+Campground
Climbing Info
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Western_Sierra/Courtright_Reservoir/
Here is some more beta to read through and print.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/courtright-reservoir/106032767
Trapper Springs Camp Ground
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106842285
Successful trip Photos
https://plus.google.com/photos/118417619768789961879/albums/5883436837398996609?authkey=CKLOnr-vnMjsHw
Post by: mudworm on June 27, 2013, 04:19:42 PM
Post by: F4? on June 27, 2013, 07:30:36 PM
No guide needed.
Post by: Brad Young on June 27, 2013, 07:33:47 PM
Sheesh, just have Mr Mud lead up what looks nice.
No guide needed.
Ludicrous thought! Why climb if you can't know exactly what you've climbed and then mark it off with orange highlighter?
Post by: squiddo on June 27, 2013, 07:45:14 PM
Ludicrous thought! Why climb if you can't know exactly what you've climbed and then mark it off with orange highlighter?
HA can I borrow your highlighter Saturday?
What time you heading up the hill Saturday? Looking forward to having some climbs and laughs with you all.
Post by: Brad Young on June 27, 2013, 07:49:42 PM
HA can I borrow your highlighter Saturday?
What time you heading up the hill Saturday? Looking forward to having some climbs and laughs with you all.
We'll head up at the usual time - after coffee. Cool to have you along.
Yes, you can borrow my highlighter. Do you want to use the one dedicated to Pinnacles routes, Joshua Tree routes or the one for SPH routes (if it's for contemporaneous marking, I assume you'll want the last one listed)? It would be honored to mark in your book.
Post by: squiddo on June 27, 2013, 07:54:12 PM
We'll head up at the usual time - after coffee. Cool to have you along.
Yes, you can borrow my highlighter. Do you want to use the one dedicated to Pinnacles routes, Joshua Tree routes or the one for SPH routes (if it's for contemporaneous marking, I assume you'll want the last one listed)? It would be honored to mark in your book.
Lol your choice. Bringing my buddy Dan who very recently bought he guide and is curious. Gonna be a fun weekend. See you Sat AM, I'll bring the quick draws:-)
Post by: Brad Young on June 27, 2013, 07:59:28 PM
Lol your choice. Bringing my buddy Dan who very recently bought he guide and is curious. Gonna be a fun weekend. See you Sat AM, I'll bring the quick draws:-)
Call on the way up so we can coordinate?
With this coming heat, I'm going to try to convince Alan and Tonya that Burst Rock is a good choice for Saturday. Sunday the plan for FAs in Luc's honor is still on (we'll survive the heat).
Yeah, quickdraws.... Good idea to have some along.
Post by: squiddo on June 27, 2013, 08:07:35 PM
Call on the way up so we can coordinate?
With this coming heat, I'm going to try to convince Alan and Tonya that Burst Rock is a good choice for Saturday. Sunday the plan for FAs in Luc's honor is still on (we'll survive the heat).
Yeah, quickdraws.... Good idea to have some along.
Yep I'll ring you for sure
Post by: F4? on June 27, 2013, 08:59:19 PM
Squiddo along with the quick draws, you'll need your capris as it will be hot.
Post by: mynameismud on June 28, 2013, 03:55:40 PM
Now a days I can't lead anything. I usually stumble around and look for Joe, Gavin or Steve, then end up passing the rope to mudworm. It is a sad state of affairs. I am solid second class....
Post by: mungeclimber on June 28, 2013, 04:10:21 PM
Ride that wave. Do the enjoyable.
Post by: Brad Young on June 28, 2013, 04:27:55 PM
I am solid second class....
Gotta disagree on that one. Dude, to me you'll always be solid first class, one of the very best.
Post by: squiddo on June 28, 2013, 04:53:47 PM
Post by: F4? on June 28, 2013, 06:34:56 PM
Post by: waldo on July 02, 2013, 07:41:54 PM
Post by: mudworm on July 02, 2013, 10:51:14 PM
Hope your hamstring recovers fast. Injuries are no fun!
Post by: waldo on July 03, 2013, 05:27:03 AM
The big slab just before the E Face of Trapper Dome is perfect for new climbers and is less than ten minutes from any campsite. Bucket Drop on Spring Dome is great, too, three pitches and good belays.
Post by: mudworm on July 08, 2013, 09:01:28 PM
Our friends Jeanne and Iztok invited a few friends to join them at Courtright for 4th of July, and friends invited friends... when the day arrived, we apparently got an Occupy Movement going. Okay, not quite, but we got 15+ who showed up taking up four campsites along with the hardcore dispersed campers.
It was my first time to Courtright, but for Mud and I, our main goal of this trip was to introduce my newly-arrived-from-China nephew, Aldous, to camping and climbing. Actually his name is Ran, which could sound funny in English as in "Ran ran a race." But when his mother went down a name dictionary, she ran out of patience too quickly (it runs in the family) and that's how they landed on Aldous. I knew he had never camped before, let alone rock climbed, but who would have thought even the clear blue sky and the ants moving around on the ground turned out to be things that he marveled about! But considering he came from Shanghai, maybe I should not be surprised. The trip was a great success. We were happy to provide him with a unique experience with the help from our fellow welcoming campers, esp. our camp mate, Jim. Once a La Honda neighbor, always a neighbor. I doubt we can afford a house in Paradise though.
My photos are posted to our album, and following are a few highlights. Click on the thumb nail to see large version (and full size).
This is indeed a beautiful place.
It was the first time Aldous touched a tent and he was happy to be in one. However, he was, and still is, very nervous about all bugs, but he said that he slept better than at home.
First climbing excursion is about to start!
Our good friend Jim led our first route up on Trapper Dome.
We sent Aldous as the follower after Jim finished the lead, and Mud led right behind him to provide guidance.
The way down sometimes can feel even more scary than going up, so Mud descended with him while Aldous was being lowered by Jim.
And don't forget to enjoy the view, Aldous! But of course, all Aldous could see was how high off ground he was.
All of you were so right about this being a beautiful place!
And even I marveled at how blue the sky was!
Aldous must be nervous by the look of his grip on the rope, but he maintained a big grin. I think he was having fun! BTW, his main, maybe only, concern about climbing on this trip was he had to wear Mud's smelly climbing shoes and was worried about being contaminated even through his socks. At the time of my typing, Mud is having all his climbing shoes airing outside all sprayed with the shoe deodorant or whatever that's called. Haha, nothing like having a teenager tell him (through me) that your shoes stink!
The second day of climbing, Jim led us to this absolutely gorgeous side of Trapper Dome (west side?). You first go up this expansive slab.
This wall has some striking colors and patterns. It is very photogenic because one can easily get the climber as well as the lake in the background all in one shot.
This was a 5.9 that Jim led and Aldous wanted to give it a try. He got up some distance before getting stuck, but he fought hard. I think he is a natural!
I think Aldous's mother would get a heart ache when she sees her son eating such simple food sitting on a rock, but I think that's a wonderful experience for him! He is surrounded by the nature!
After climbing before taking off for home, we all decided to pay a visit to a nice beach only 10 minutes of a walk from the campsite. Only upon getting there did Aldous regret that he admantly refused to change into his swim trunks. He simply did not expect to see a beach so accessible, yet so peaceful and beautiful.
In this photo, Jim is already in the water, Mud is about to get in while Aldous looked on with envy.
That concluded our trip. On the way home, Jim and we stopped at Eddie's Restaurant in Los Banos (right on Hwy 152) for dinner. What they said about the great service in Yelp was very true!
Fast forward two days... Mud and I just returned from dropping Aldous off at his summer camp in Watsonville. It is a wonderful campus. All the student counselors, teachers, and staff are extremely friendly. I'm so excited for his opportunity to participate and begged to stay myself. Unlike many, if not most, other spoiled rich kids from China, Aldous is a very pleasant and considerate young man. When Mud started the engine when we were leaving the campus, he said "we only had him for one week and it already felt hard to part." Well, I do look forward to spending time with him on the many school breaks to come.
Beta : As far as I can tell, this thread has a great collection of information on Courtright.
And I promised the people around the campfire that I would send the link to Mud's wonderful story on his first wall, Nose on Al Cap among other great stories shared by friends. Here is the link: The Early Days.
Just a note to myself since I'm so forgetful of names. The people who joined this year included: our campsite: Jim and us; next campsite: Steve Curtis, wife Donna, dog Daisy, Johnathan (Mt Biker too), wife Nina; next campsite: Emmanuel and partner, Nate (he bikes too) and friend, Erin and Sarah(?); next campsite: Jeanne, Iztok, Anja, Timm (the Olympian) and Viera (?) who flew straight in from Russia; and dispersed campers: Martin and Janice.
Post by: Brad Young on July 08, 2013, 09:09:13 PM
What a difference between Shanghai and the Sierra Nevada!
Post by: mungeclimber on July 08, 2013, 09:51:39 PM
Post by: F4? on July 09, 2013, 05:44:00 AM
Post by: JC w KC redux on July 09, 2013, 10:08:13 AM
You inspired me to borrow the guidebook from the AAC - got the last copy :)
So much granite - so little time - so many choices!
KC and I will have a few weekends and possibly almost a week in August.
I want to spend some serious time on SPH, maybe Tuolumne and the Res - and depending on the heat - the Hills.
In the meantime...back to the moss and choss...I hear previously closed raptor formations calling...
Post by: mynameismud on July 09, 2013, 03:00:35 PM
Very nice, makes me want to go check the area out.
What a difference between Shanghai and the Sierra Nevada!
Quite the difference. He mentioned blue sky's more than once. He is gone for a Month, I mentioned when he gets done with the summer session we would take him climbing and he got noticably excited.
Maybe we get him to join the forum...
Post by: mudworm on July 09, 2013, 03:32:32 PM
Maybe we get him to join the forum...No, no, no!...
Post by: mynameismud on July 09, 2013, 04:51:05 PM
Post by: Aaron McDonald on July 10, 2013, 02:15:54 PM