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Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Atomizer on November 11, 2013, 10:45:14 AM

Title: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: Atomizer on November 11, 2013, 10:45:14 AM

Haven's write up from our recent misadventures on Zodiac.
http://wavehaven.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/sign-from-the-zodiac/

Title: Re: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: mungeclimber on November 11, 2013, 11:01:19 AM

Quote

Sleeping on a portaledge is an uncomfortable situation in the best of circumstances

I've not found that to be the case.


Epic tale in any event. As long as everyone comes home alive, it's all good.

Title: Re: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: Brad Young on November 11, 2013, 11:19:54 AM

Haven's always been a good writer, but this one is excellent, not just good.

Sorry about your misfortune. But she's right, nothing permanently bad happened.

Your story reminded me of a similar event I saw happen during daylight while Forrest and I were doing South Seas. Two Spaniards were what, 500 feet to the right of us on Sea of Dreams. We climbed near them for two days. They didn't speak English and we didn't speak Spanish so our communications consisted of waving hellos.

At about 1,500 feet up we both heard a scary/weird noise and looked right quickly. Both of their haulbags were airborne; airborne (like yours) on an overhanging wall. I've never been able to forget their impact: first they hit, then immediate concussion waves flew out - totally visible, reminding me of movie documentaries where bombs explode on impact.

Then there was a five second pause, total silence. Next we heard screaming, loud, angry screaming. Our gaze moved quickly to the two Spaniards; nose to nose they were screaming at each other, four hands gesticulating wildly. They must have screamed for ten minutes straight.

Title: Re: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: F4? on November 11, 2013, 05:57:44 PM

Quote

Sleeping on a portaledge is an uncomfortable situation in the best of circumstances

Ahhh fond memories of doing a wall (weak attempt) with Landshark. We were sleeping in his Fish ledge that has plastic tensioners...

So I'd relax and lay my head down...then slowly my head would go below my feet!

Damnit Jake, I can't sleep like this, upside down! The response was laughter....

A short fix was made with draws and I got to sleep level.

Title: Re: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: squiddo on November 13, 2013, 01:15:49 PM

great article

Title: Re: A Sign From the Zodiac.
Post by: mynameismud on November 16, 2013, 12:18:58 PM

Just read the write up.  Very good, thanks.

Salathe was my nemisis.  Took three tries.  I do not think that I relaxed on the last attempt until about four pitches from the top.