MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 20, 2013, 04:58:41 PM
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suggestions?
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You can borrow my Pika drill, but you'll need to find your own hammer. I'll include some hardware.
If you want to purchase a drill check these out:
http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/anchors/anchor-accessories/rocpec-0
I've used these, but Dave and Scott had one fall apart while bolting Blister in the Sun. Some critical part fell out... not good. Its a cool drill but that has got me scared to use it. And the wrist loop won't hold a fall.
http://shop.runoutcustoms.com/D-5-Hurricane-Drill-D5-HURR.htm
Its expensive but I love it. Works great and is solid, but the glue that holds the grip on is suspect.
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suggestions?
Here's my suggestion:
Maybe Sunday wasn't such a good idea. There is, however, treatment available.
Signed,
Doctor Frankenstein
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Go for it Ahab.
Definitely ping Luke at Runout Customs for his "Heavy Duty" bolt bag. Don't get the light duty one.
I prefer the rocpec drill since bits can be changed out on the fly (on stance), if you break a bit en route.
blow tube length - DO NOT MAKE A SHORT FACKING BLOW TUBE! You guys know who are who still have blow tubes. F4, I'm throwing yours away one of these days. Get small cord to make tie offs with. Probably available at hardware stores.
Brush for the hole. Fixe hardware sells them. I find it hard to use them while on stance.
Wrench... I like a fixed box end. Very light. Others like a ratchet. For a few dollars more, they have ratchet box ends too that don't weigh too much. Very swanky. Whatever you do, make sure you have the right size (or an adjustable wrench, for the type of bolt you are using. Fixe wedge are different than Powers 5 piece. Also, keep in mind that if you want to wrench down screw gates, the big ones are different from either Fixe or Powers.
Hammer - Yosemite Hammer by BD is a good way to go. Not too heavy, but heavy enough.
Hooks- stance everything and you won't have to worry about the cheating that using a hook is.
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I think the hole brushes are a waste but other like them. I agree with have a long tube. I like the hard plastic tubing versus the floppy surgical tubes.
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I think the hole brushes are a waste but other like them. I agree with have a long tube. I like the hard plastic tubing versus the floppy surgical tubes.
Likes... hard.... and long tube... instead of... floppy... must...... control..... need..... to.....make...joke......
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I got something long and hard for ya
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Hey!
It had better not be the holy blow tube Jim passed to me?
I want it back if so.
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I got something long and hard for ya
ha ha haaaaaa
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Nope had mine since back in the day
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Go for it Ahab.
I prefer the rocpec drill since bits can be changed out on the fly (on stance), if you break a bit en route.
Munge- did you ever try the Bosch SDS bits? Curious how they are holding up?
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Pretty well. I'm pretty sure most of mine are the Bosch. That's all they have at Lowes.
Admittedly I'm ditching any bit after enough holes so that I'm working with sharp bits most of the time.
Make every hammer blow count.
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Pretty well. I'm pretty sure most of mine are the Bosch. That's all they have at Lowes.
Admittedly I'm ditching any bit after enough holes so that I'm working with sharp bits most of the time.
Make every hammer blow count
Yep about $7 at Osh as well. Curious how many good holes you can roughly count on in solid granite.
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So to summarize all the suggestions it sounds like I need:
BD Yosemite hammer
Petzl Rocpec or Hurricane Drill
A heavy duty runout customs bag - price? other options?
A bulb or blow tube - I think I like the bulb better
SDS Bosch bits from the hardware store.
The hurricane seems like the smarter choice given it's beefiness - it's been my experience that with tools you get what you pay for. Sounds like the difference between Home Depot's house brand and Snap On.
How much of an issue is the pinching on the Rocpec? How do you tighten the bit on that one? The spec sheet online just shows a twist arrow - reminds me of IKEA.
Bob and Brad - what kind of drills were we using?
Jim or Bruce - wanna chime in here?
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So to summarize all the suggestions it sounds like I need:
BD Yosemite hammer
Petzl Rocpec or Hurricane Drill
A heavy duty runout customs bag - price? other options?
A bulb or blow tube - I think I like the bulb better
SDS Bosch bits from the hardware store.
The hurricane seems like the smarter choice given it's beefiness - it's been my experience that with tools you get what you pay for. Sounds like the difference between Home Depot's house brand and Snap On.
How much of an issue is the pinching on the Rocpec? How do you tighten the bit on that one? The spec sheet online just shows a twist arrow - reminds me of IKEA.
Bob and Brad - what kind of drills were we using?
Jim or Bruce - wanna chime in here?
HD Bolt bag was $45 plus shipping ($50 OTD) and it is buurl. Email Luke....he had a couple more in Oct.
Luke Malatesta <runoutcustoms@gmail.com>
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I have hundreds of bolts on my Rocpeck. It did break as Atomizer mentioned after around 100 holes. I took off the collet system and fabricated a key lock to hold the bit in.
It is now way better than original, and is holding steady with a bit of tape.
The D5 hurricane is a more complex system, involving collets and 2 wrenches. The good part about the Hurricane is that you can use multiple sizes of bits for different applications.
I have a hurricane you can try out for a while, see if you like it.
I agree with munge on the runout customs beefy bag, and long blow tube.
The brush in MANDATORY. It will ensure that you have the best chance of the sleeve sticking. I have had many spinners when I have not had the brush. More often with the wedge bolts, but at pins you will be using 5 piece so it may not be that big of a deal.
The Pika I had kept coming loose at the set screws, not a great drill IMHO.
Take Adam up on it though, use as many drills as you can before you commit to purchasing one.
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had
I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.
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I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.
HA HA-you need Luke to make you a bolt bag for your bolt bags....
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an Uber Bolt Bag to rule them all?
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I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.
Just got a message from him that he has both in stock - yeehaw!
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an Uber Bolt Bag to rule them all?
Yeah! I want light one.....
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As far as drill holders go, I like either the Rocpec or the Hurricane. I wear a leather glove on the hand which holds the holder when using the Rocpec to avoid pinching. The Pika is junk. No reason to have to fiddle with small set screws! I like the BD wall hammer.
As far as a bolting bag, I use a chalk bag with fleece lining preferably with a cordura outer fabric. Sear Craftsman makes a 1/2" and 9/16" box end wrench(you can order it through Granger) which is about 5" long and is just about perfect for tightening bolts as you can't generate too much torque. For removing old bolts I use the same wrench, but in the 9" length to get more torque.
I hope this helps.
Bruce
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Okay, this is the funniest damn thing I have seen in quite some time.
from my friend Jon Cochran:
John ,
For your Pinns bolt kit, if you plan on stance placements, make sure to include the following items;
The Higgens distance reducing glasses. The runout to the next stance will seem like nothing with these babies.
The Holmgren XXXL jock strap. It's bigger than your bolt bag, but as a by-product of not using hooks you will be surprised at how fast you'll grow.
Waltons nerve cream. Try to remember to apply before the ascent, it will keep you calm and focused. You might forget to use it and freak, running out the upper half of the route without pro. In that case use generously to help control convulsions, dry-heaving, and the shakes.
Do not fall.
Also remember as the first ascentionist of a Pinns route you were able to touch all the holds that won't be there for future generations.
The stupid name chosen will be forever, so name it well.
Jon
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I'll keep putting this up front so it doesn't get missed :)
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I'll keep putting this up front so it doesn't get missed :)
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I'm confused are you expecting a kit for Christmas or are you buying one?
Have you realized that bolting might get in the way of your onsights?
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I'm confused are you expecting a kit for Christmas or are you buying one?
Have you realized that bolting might get in the way of your onsights?
I'm confused too....on the "bumping" :P
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I'm confused are you expecting a kit for Christmas or are you buying one?
Have you realized that bolting might get in the way of your onsights?
I'm buying one :)
and yes - it is getting in the way - but all things evolve :)
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I'm confused too....on the "bumping" :P
Okay, this is the funniest damn thing I have seen in quite some time.
from my friend Jon Cochran:
John ,
For your Pinns bolt kit, if you plan on stance placements, make sure to include the following items;
The Higgens distance reducing glasses. The runout to the next stance will seem like nothing with these babies.
The Holmgren XXXL jock strap. It's bigger than your bolt bag, but as a by-product of not using hooks you will be surprised at how fast you'll grow.
Waltons nerve cream. Try to remember to apply before the ascent, it will keep you calm and focused. You might forget to use it and freak, running out the upper half of the route without pro. In that case use generously to help control convulsions, dry-heaving, and the shakes.
Do not fall.
Also remember as the first ascentionist of a Pinns route you were able to touch all the holds that won't be there for future generations.
The stupid name chosen will be forever, so name it well.
Jon
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LOL BUMP!
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Ground up, onsight, drilled from stance.
Nothing more proud.
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Insert Quote
Ground up, onsight, drilled from stance.
Nothing more proud.
Of course...
But at some point there will a be route where they need to lower down between bolts.
And that would not be an onsight.
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Of course...
But at some point there will a be route where they need to lower down between bolts.
And that would not be an onsight.
Yep, it's pretty normal to put in one or two bolts and then lower off out of exhaustion.
J.C. solved that though on S Curve by carefully downclimbing from his drill stance. He then went back up to drill the second and third bolts from stance. He never weighted the rope.
But S Curve was only 5.7...
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My nerve cream comes in several brands, but I prefer Tecate. I apply it internally after a climb and repeat application as necessary.
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The stupid name chosen will be forever, so name it well.
Priceless!
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My nerve cream comes in several brands, but I prefer Tecate. I apply it internally after a climb and repeat application as necessary.
I've had the good fortune to share some of Bob's nerve cream with him after climbing days, in the parking lot. Good stuff. I always hope some of it will rub off on me.