MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on December 07, 2013, 08:20:46 PM
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Does it go? Would it go? Who would go? :o
Yes, I'm bored.
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Does it go? Would it go? Who would go? :o
Yes, I'm bored.
Weird, weird post. Or at least weird timing for it.
I was talking to Kevin less than an hour ago about doing this route on Wednesday or Thursday of this coming week. And I also talked with Mucci about it earlier (it's possible his friend Steve has useful information about the fixed pins that Clint and John found on top of Crackaphobia - which is where the first pitch of Pigeon Crack ends, if there even is such a pitch).
I put it in the book because I thought it had gone (at least the first pitch). Now that I've tried to climb it, and asked around a lot, I'm not so sure.
If you don't mind, I post up my full set of thoughts about it in the next day or so?
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We'll have to let you know.
Brad and I are planning on rapping in and placing #0 copperheads with pre-frayed wires in chiseled cobblestones for pro.
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But would it go to the top?
The guano would harden the rock?
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But would it go to the top?
The guano would harden the rock?
I assume you've read what's in the 2007 book? And seen the topo? (These are on pages 328 and 329.)
While working on the book, I thought there was a route up this whole "crack" (more of a rotten, overhanging cleft?) based on what Gagner put in his book and what was on Clint's master list of routes. I don't have Clint's master list any more (I may have a paper copy of it in a big box in the attic, but I'm not gonna get it down). But I do have Gagner's book. At page 108 that book has a photo that shows the west side of Machete. On that photo is a line marked with the number "5." This line clearly designates the cleft that is Pigeon Crack. Below the photo is a list of Machete routes. Route "5" is called "Aid Route:"
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2881/11264104724_fef7389e2d_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/11264055305_ab9b2d724a_b.jpg)
When I was writing the book, it was of interest that, although Gagner lists this as a "route," there is no description of it at all in the book (his was mostly a written-description-of-the routes book).
If I recall correctly, Clint didn't have any information about this route either, other than what he'd seen in Gagner's book. But he had a distinct memory of there being three fixed pitons at the top of Crackaphobia when he and John did that route. How did those pinns get there? Neither of us knew, but that would be a logical place for a first pitch of this "Aid Route" to end.
When I talked with him, Paul had no memory of any route there and no memory of how he'd concluded that there was in fact one. Yet he'd called it a route. Had he talked to someone who'd climbed it? Had he seen evidence that it had been climbed? He didn't recall (it's no big surprise that he wouldn't remember details like that either; one of the more obscure routes at Pinns, more than 20 years later!).
So, with this little bit to go on, I checked it out myself.
It looked like someone had climbed at least a first pitch (starting from near the base of the route West Face to what are now the Crackaphobia anchors, all as drawn in on the 2007 topo). I could see where one might climb. All the bolts drawn in on the topo were there (although the "second" bolt - the grouping of two - was actually three really crappy bolts when I first saw the route; more on this below).
In the season before the book came out I tried to climb this pitch with Dave Harden. I made it to the grouping of three bolts (concluding that the climbing was only loose and dangerous 5.6 to there). Once at that point I could see no other bolts and no other pro possibilities at all until the next bolts that are drawn on the topo. These next bolts are about 50 feet, maybe 60 feet further. Yet the climbing looked no harder than what I'd just done, likely it was easier. And these upper bolts weren't more than 15 feet or so from the Crackaphobia anchor.
But the three bolts I'd climbed to were so bad that I wan't willing to go further. Instead, I placed a new, long 3/8 inch bolt, pulled (very easily) the two worst of the old bolts and then lowered off (this is why there are two bolts shown in this position on the topo - there were two when I got done with it).
Based on what I'd seen and on this effort, I concluded then that, more likely than not, this pitch had been climbed before. This conclusion resulted in this being a listed route in the text and on the topo.
But what about the upper part? This part of the West Side was the last area I needed to research for the book; I was pushing to finish, and so I had some limits to the time I could spend. I knew I wouldn't have time to try to climb the upper part, but I could at least scope it out carefully with binoculars. I did this from multiple locations on the ground, and, while making my third ascent of Son of Dawn Wall, Jeff led while I hung and scoped leftward with binos, looking for any sign that the upper part of Pigeon Crack had been climbed (I was also hanging so as to get the actual Son of Dawn Wall topo done correctly).
Keeping in mind that Paul showed the "Pigeon Crack" route meeting up with Son of Dawn Wall, I figured that I would have to see at least some sign of passage if it had actually ever been climbed (most likely I'd see bolts if anything - there certainly didn't appear to be any other way to protect the climbing up there). Even if I didn't see stuff lower, I'd have to see stuff (bolts probably) as the two routes converged wouldn't I? I saw nothing at all (and I spent a lot of time looking). I concluded that the upper pitches had never been touched, and so I wrote what I wrote about those pitches in the 2007 book.
After the work on the book was done I went back to try to finish climbing what was now a route in the book (gotta climb every route in the park). The events of my second attempt, combined with more asking around, have made me think that my first conclusion (that the first pitch had probably been climbed) was more likely than not incorrect.
More about this in our next installment...
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After the work on the book was done I went back to try to finish climbing what was now a route in the book (gotta climb every route in the park). The events of my second attempt, combined with more asking around, have made me think that my first conclusion (that the first pitch had probably been climbed) was more likely than not incorrect.
Trying to make sure I have the sequence correct. Something sounds incongruent. So I think it's my read of the timing and distance.
1.During book work thought route up whole face.
2.This looked to be "Aid Route" based on Gagner book.
3.Pinns at top of Crackaphobia pre-existed FA of Crackaphobia.
4.Right before book came out attempt on potential full "Pigeon Crack Aid Route" got you to the "three bolt" cluster. It was modified to two bolts.
5.After book came out, 2nd attempt on potential full "Pigeon Crack Aid Route"
So naturally, we want to know how the 2nd attempt progressed and what you saw and where you saw it in this area. :)
Also, I infer from your story, and particularly the first attempt, that the initial cluster of bolts is not an anchor to the first pitch. But is a midway point of some kind on the way to the top of Crackaphobia and the iron there. To state it more clearly for the folks back home, if there is doubt that the iron is not the top of a 'first' pitch and the route to there had NOT been climbed, then it begs the question you foreshadowed... how did the iron get there?
Prior ascent of Crackaphobia to Clint's ascent?
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The only thing I would have said differently is your "number 4." By the time I tried to climb it the first time, I'd already concluded that, if anything had been done, it was only this first pitch.
The initial cluster of bolts was confusing. Three bolts in cluster would normally be an anchor. But they were only 35 feet or so up and right from the start of the climb. So at first I reached a conclusion (which I am now questioning) that this was only a midway point.
And from what I've seen and learned afterward, yes, I'm thinking that the fixed pins on top of Crackaphobia were very likely from a prior (unreported, aid) ascent of that route.
More after I get the fires re-started and some coffee going.
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What are you a Lawyer or something...
Good investigative reporting.
Actually I put that cluster of bolts in back in 1999. We specifically put really old ones in to trick whomever would write the next guidebook
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What are you a Lawyer or something...
Good investigative reporting.
Actually I put that cluster of bolts in back in 1999. We specifically put really old ones in to trick whomever would write the next guidebook
Actually they are both lawyers - and you're a liar - I put those bolts in.
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Actually they are both lawyers - and you're a liar - I put those bolts in.
Munge is a lawyer too??? Why didn't I know this?
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Wow, what competition for having put in a cluster of crappy bolts. Maybe my memory is off and there were two three-bolt clusters? ;)
And, as for me, as far as this site is concerned, I'm a husband and father first, then a climber, then a writer, and, oh yeah, I do have a profession too (which I enjoy).
I find a lot of fun in this type of investigation into Pinnacles climbing history. I know Rob does too. And Mucci and Kevin, and...
It was 21 degrees here when I woke up. The driveway is a thin sheet of ice (we cleared 14 inches of snow yesterday, but there's always just a thin bit left that turns to ice until the temperatures are warm enough to dry it). The icicles are two feet long, and we're sticking around the house drinking extra coffee today. Tricia and I are likely to cut a Christmas tree off the back lot.
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Munge is a lawyer too???
I thought he was a DR and not a lawyer. Maybe both?
He looks normal.
This is one of the best threads in a while.
I had always "wondered" if it was and aid route and what it would be like to be way up there having pigeons bombarding you as you crept along there turf.
We all know Brad put in 110% to get the information in the guide correct. So it's cool to have at least 1 mystery to talk about.
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I thought he was a DR and not a lawyer. Maybe both?
He is truly a man of many hats :)
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I had always "wondered" if it was and aid route and what it would be like to be way up there having pigeons bombarding you as you crept along there turf.
We all know Brad put in 110% to get the information in the guide correct. So it's cool to have at least 1 mystery to talk about.
If you want some Pigeons to bombard you there is coffee shop a few blocks from my house at the yacht harbor. The world class pastries are well known by the pidgeon population. Sounds like The Pigeons of Pigeon Crack might take us as Pastries.
I'm game for some investigation if you need someone who is trained in Pigeon attacks.
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If you want some Pigeons to bombard you there is coffee shop a few blocks from my house at the yacht harbor. The world class pastries are well known by the pidgeon population. Sounds like The Pigeons of Pigeon Crack might take us as Pastries.
Guess where I grew up?? on the "other" side of the yacht harbor....
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Guess where I grew up?? on the "other" side of the yacht harbor....
Well than, I guess if you are down your experience would trump mine. But... where is you?
And I think it goes without saying, question the sanity of anyone from Santa Cruz who posts on this forum.
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My second attempt on the "route" Pigeon Crack was made after the book came out. By that point I had concluded that, if any of what Gagner showed on page 108 of his book had been climbed, it was only the first pitch. That is, the only part of this route that might have been climbed is what is shown in the 2007 book.
But before this part of the story, as a side note, there is a very thin almost-seam directly below what had been the cluster of three bad bolts (two of which I had pulled out by that point). I suppose it is possible that someone had aided this seam and left the three bolt cluster as their anchor. I'm skeptical, but it is possible. I'll show this feature to Kevin when we are there.
I made my second attempt on a Friday, the first day of one of our "Inn at the Pinnacles weekends." I remember this because Vicki was my first belayer; after a while Jim McCon showed up and replaced Vicki (who could then go enjoy herself with Wendy). And Jim and I quit early (partly because we didn't have enough time regardless, and partly because the focus of those weekends was social, not climbing, so we wanted to get back early).
This second attempt didn't go very well.
First, while Vicki belayed I climbed the "5.6" to the (now) two bolt cluster. I was very surprised was how hard the "5.6" was. "Holy crap," I thought. This section was very loose, it felt at least "R," and maybe "X" rated, and it sure as hell wasn't 5.6 (it could be 5.8 ). Basically I'd sandbagged myself!
Oh well, I carried on. I had intended to pull the third old bolt and clean it up (it certainly wasn't adding anything there, the replacement bolt I'd placed is very good). I did that. Then I tried to climb further, and I tried to see if there were any other bolts or alternative protection possibilities. I saw no other bolts (that is, I saw none that I hadn't seen before). I saw some seams in quite cruddy rock (pins maybe?), and I saw really, really loose gaping "cracks" that clearly wouldn't hold anything at all even if a piece could be made to stay in them.
My high point on this attempt was about 10 feet up and right from the replacement bolt. What had looked like "easier climbing" on my earlier attempt didn't look so easy now (sandbagged myself again). But more critically, the rock I was moving on to was very loose. Even the big "stance" I was moving toward was loose - I pulled the whole thing off together with the melon-sized lodestone that was imbedded in it (maybe 20 pounds of rock in one pull?).
And that was it. Jim was too smart to want to try the route and it was getting late enough that we needed to get back. So I left a chain on the one bolt and we walked out.
Since then I've become very skeptical that anyone could have climbed this pitch. I shouldn't actually say "could have." I suppose someone could have climbed it - if they were feeling crazy brave (and their second too - there is a fair amount of sideways movement on this pitch). But had someone? Why would they place a three bolt cluster only to run it out 50 or 60 more feet to the ledge near the top of Crackaphobia? Clint saw the three pins atop Crackaphobia when he and John did it, but what about the old bolt or two to the left of those pins? He didn't recall anything about them. Are they a remnant from a first ascent of the pitch I was trying to do? But why place that/those bolts (through binos I'm fairly sure it is two bolts) and not place anything below, between the three-bolt cluster and these up higher? Maybe "they" did place a bolt between these and I just haven't been able to see it from anywhere I've been able to look the climb over?
I don't know the answer to these questions. But, if there aren't more bolts than are shown on my topo, then I am pretty damn sure that that pitch hasn't been climbed before.
And there's one more, newer clue in the mystery, one that Mucci is trying to help me with. He's talked with his friend/partner Steve, and Steve may have done Crackaphobia as an aid climb years before Clint and John did it as a free route. Could that explain the three fixed pins that were there when Crackaphobia was done?
More on this later.
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Just talked to Steve again about crackaphobia.
He said he is pretty sure he did not aid the crack.
However, he did mention drilling the 1st pitch of son of dawn direct solo. He thought SOD wall was to be an FA.
It had already been climbed prior to his attempt.
Shortly thereafter, he repeated sod wall, complete with the original start for its 2nd ascent.
Cool history.
Pigeon crack looks bagalaar.
Edited for clarity:
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We must bolt it......
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Well, when I lead it I intend to take a bolt kit. If, as I suspect, there is nothing else by way of pro above what was the three-bolt cluster (now one good bolt), then I will conclude that this pitch hasn't been climbed before and I will put in bolts on lead, finishing at the Crackaphobia anchor. If I find bolts that I haven't seen before, I will either use them, or replace them (depending on how bad they are).
I also intend to take other types of gear (pins, Tri-cams) in case they are usable.
And Josh, when you originally asked Steve if he'd climbed something in that area what did you and he have in mind? Has he climbed anything left of Son of Dawn and right of West Face? Or does he even remember (that's the trouble with people who don't keep meticulous records of every climb they do, they don't always remember ;D ).
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put Mucci's scope on the "two bolts" to make sure they are bolts, no?
it does not seem like a likely place for a rap station for something above, no?
a prior aid ascent to the iron makes the most sense to me.
good mystery and write up. TFPU!
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Please to place the bolts a reasonable distance and soft brush the good holds...if any exist.
This has been good entertainment... for a marathon work weekend.
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. for a marathon work weekend.
I hear you. Worked late Friday, all of Saturday and most of this morning. Kind of funny. The Company Christmas party was Friday evening. Around 6 pm the place was mostly vacant, that is until you got to development. At least half the engineers were at their desks.
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Yesterday, with Kevin's help, I reached some definite conclusions about the route Pigeon Crack.
I am now completely certain that the route marked in the book as Pigeon Crack goes only 55 feet to what is now one good, solid bolt (the same place where I originally found three cruddy bolts and marked two bolts on the topo). I am now sure that no-one has ever climbed past this point and that the two bolts visible 50 or 55 feet farther up (also marked on the topo) have nothing to do with the first 55 feet of this climb. All of the evidence supports this conclusion, and there is no evidence that anyone has ever gone further.
I'm so sure that I've now marked the route off in my guidebook (having led this horrible section of rock now three times).
Here's what we learned and/or reinforced yesterday:
1. I'd forgotten that I'd also replaced the (quickly useless when you're leading) first bolt when I was there with Vicki.
2. This time leading to the end of the route (the end is definitely where the three-bolt cluster had been) felt only like 5.7 "X" on very loose rock. I think that when Kevin followed he thought that 5.6 was about right. Either way it is very loose and very scary.
3. There is no fixed pro between there and the upper two bolts marked on the topo. And there isn't any rock good enough to take pins or clean pro (at least not that I could see, and I could see pretty well). These upper bolts are 50 or more feet up and right from the end of the route. The rock between the end of the route and these two bolts is horrific. We both found the first ten feet of this section (we both did this part and then retreated back to the one good bolt/three bolt cluster/end of the route position) to be terrible climbing, very loose and scary. It didn't get better in the 40 feet above that to the upper two bolts.
4. Among the several reasons to conclude that no-one had gone further is the amount of loose crap (large and small) above the end point. The scar where I'd pulled off a huge chunk is about 18 inches by two feet. Any climber who had passed this point would have had to pull much of this off (if only in testing "holds").
5. When I led further, I reached a poor stance and started to drill (convinced utterly by then that no-one had climbed beyond there). And then I realized that - if I placed a bolt - I'd be doing a first ascent and that this passage of rock was absolutely not worth climbing. I stopped drilling and retreated. No-one should ever climb higher than what is clearly the end of the route.
6. I think that whoever did do this climb must have intended to go further (maybe to do the whole of Pigeon Crack as shown in Gagner's book). But when they reached the spot that is their high-point, they realized that they were wasting their time, put in three hasty bolts and bailed.
7. So what of the two bolts visible up and right from the end of this route (it is two, they can both be seen from the highest point we reached)? The position of these two bolts has nothing to do with the route we were on and everything to do with the three fixed pinns that Clint and John found at the top of Crackaphobia. Lemme get some more breakfast of coffee and I'll come back to this.
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So here's another thought about a past climber having continued past Kevin and my high-point on this route: I've repeated every route done at Pinns by Denny and Colliver. They were climbing very, very boldly at about the time that the types of bolts I found at the three-bolt cluster were in use. Although I don't think they had anything to do with Pigeon Crack, they are a good example of bold, bold climbing from about the right time period.
There's no way that they or anyone else who had a bolt kit along (and whoever placed the three bolts obviously did have one) would have climbed that remaining, terrible 50 or so feet of rock without placing something (after all they'd just placed three bolts!).
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There were definite stances between the bolt and anchors but no bolts. There was tons of loose and flexing rock that wouldn't have survived any proper FA unless the person was incredibly careful and lucky.
I've got photos I'll post later.
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So, what about the two upper bolts shown on the topo (they're around 15 feet left of, and slightly lower than the Crackaphobia anchor? There is a broken-up, narrow ledge between those two bolts and the Crackaphobia anchor. I originally concluded that these two bolts were part of a longer Pigeon Crack "first pitch." Now I am sure I was wrong. Here's why:
8. Why would a climber go from the three-bolt cluster, up over 50 feet of absolutely shit rock (with some stances though) only to stop and put in two more bolts on this ledge? It makes no sense.
9. Instead, picture someone leading Crackaphobia as an aid climb years before its first free ascent by Clint and John. Such an ascent would clearly explain the three fixed pins that Clint found.
10. Then look at the Crackaphobia topos (the one in the 2007 book and Clint's original topo - his original can be found in David Rubine's 1995 guide). David Harden and I tried Crackaphobia in 2006 before the book came out. We thought it was really hard and fairly run out and we didn't' finish it - our retreat 'biner has been in place ever since our attempt. Dave and I also concluded that the Pigeon Turd Trough that Clint showed on his original was class three, but that the distance from it's top to the base of Crackaphobia's actual start was class four, not class three. My topo shows this difference. Then, at the top of the topo, and just like Clint's original, mine shows a 90 foot distance from the top of Crackaphobia to the top of the class four/bottom of Crackaphobia's actual fifth class climbing. But, for some reason I omitted information on my topo that Clint had on his: it is also 165 feet down from the Crackaphobia top anchor to the bottom of Pigeon Turd Trough (i.e. to rappel to a walking point instead of to a point where one would have to down climb the class four and the trough).
11. An aid ascent of what is now Crackaphobia would have been done back when the standard rope length was either 45 or 50 meters. More likely it was done long enough ago that 45 meter (150 foot) ropes were used.
12. Such ropes would not have been long enough to allow a convenient rap back to the ground.
13. If such ascentionists planned on making a bolt anchor for their new route (instead of rappelling from fixed pitons), why not move left on the ledge some? An anchor there allows a much, much shorter rappel (one can rap from the two bolts to a point well up on the ramp that leads to the start of the West Face and to the top of the route Beyond Destiny). Such a rap would be desirable with 45 meter ropes. I haven't measured the distance, but a rap from those two bolts might even allow a single rope rappel with a 50 meter rope (down and left to the same ramp leading to the start of the West Face).
14. I have concluded that those two bolts were left from an earlier, aid ascent of what is now Crackaphobia.
15. As stated above, I have also concluded that no person has ever climbed the Pigeon Crack pitch that I marked in the book, and that the route Pigeon Crack is just the 55 foot long, 5.6 X that I've now led three times.
End of long-winded, but fun explanation, and end of long-lasting but fun investigation.
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Do I have to climb this route to maintain my status?
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This discussion went way over my head.... Just tell me how many stars it gets.
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Do I have to climb this route to maintain my status?
I would never, ever encourage someone to climb a route like this.
Your status would never be affected by doing or not doing this climb .
If you did decide to do it, it might be nice to put a second bolt in alongside my replacement; a two modern bolt anchor instead of the original three crud bolts. On the other hand it might not be worth the metal; you think anyone else is ever gonna do it?
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JC on aid? Kathy would never approve!
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JC on aid? Kathy would never approve!
It's not an aid climb.
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This discussion went way over my head.... Just tell me how many stars it gets.
It isn't over your head, that's not the issue.
The issue is that it's a long, long writing, and nobody reads long writings that are on the internet.
You didn't read it all and that's normal. If I'd printed it out you would have read it.
So, take this away: There's a route at a place called Pinnacles that is erroneously depicted in the guidebook, but that's OK, 'cause it sucks big time, it's obscure, and because you're too smart to ever want to do it.
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Pictures!
Here's the link to the entire album where you can get full resolution images if you want to poke around in the pixels.:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111001858119976450058/PigeonCrackNov2013?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNLLw83XgoCGLg&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/111001858119976450058/PigeonCrackNov2013?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNLLw83XgoCGLg&feat=directlink)
Select images
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-laNXCDtS7JY/Uqofl8r5-eI/AAAAAAAAOXY/D_ol0uMiS9Q/s640/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5eWIpS2DY7M/UqofnjpGn5I/AAAAAAAAOX4/Y1leqZ5KnyQ/s640/IMG_0006.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h0ogVtMFbgw/UqofoeTgSpI/AAAAAAAAOYI/AuKXlcWvL8o/s640/IMG_0008.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ny6B8HsXwIw/UqofqCfC56I/AAAAAAAAOYg/ZJSHoVl_zgU/s640/IMG_0013.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JSTvAtWP9OQ/UqofrM6LGaI/AAAAAAAAOYw/2WaMlY8KBkQ/s640/IMG_0015.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ugfv8Si-9Po/UqoftSsgc5I/AAAAAAAAOZY/BtRMjTM-_NU/s640/IMG_0021.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XStqLsIMU5I/Uqofxa3h08I/AAAAAAAAOaY/11BZix8MvIc/s640/IMG_0032.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D76iPKCwMYo/UqofyxYOgOI/AAAAAAAAOaw/dyRfHO4-nd0/s640/telephoto%2520pano.jpg)
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I'm always amazed at how the camera underestimates the angle.
That is some scary looking oatmeal in the last few!
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Atomizer
to answer your question.
5.11 one star
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Worst route at pinnacles?
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Worst route at pinnacles?
Just like there is no one "best pizza," there isn't any one "worst route at Pinnacles."
In my opinion this one is on the short list though. The really short list. ;)
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XStqLsIMU5I/Uqofxa3h08I/AAAAAAAAOaY/11BZix8MvIc/s640/IMG_0032.JPG)
This pic makes it look kinda good.
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XStqLsIMU5I/Uqofxa3h08I/AAAAAAAAOaY/11BZix8MvIc/s640/IMG_0032.JPG)
This pic makes it look kinda good.
Yeah, good. Especially where that huge chunk of rock just pulled right out ;D
Are you bored again?
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whaddayamean? Missing chunks means it's already been cleaned.
noob
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the edge it left behind looks usable :)
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I'd be very happy hanging out below while you two go for the lead on such usable edges (I actually stood on this usable edge when I was drilling - it crumbled predictably, but held).
As a noob/boob I'd be satisfied with the second ascent ;)
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whaddayamean? Missing chunks means it's already been cleaned.
noob
best post of the week
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I'd be very happy hanging out below while you two go for the lead on such usable edges (I actually stood on this usable edge when I was drilling - it crumbled predictably, but held).
As a noob/boob I'd be satisfied with the second ascent ;)
that's the spirit! Just need to get to the mother choss. Let the next guy worry about that cookie-ing apart.
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Worst route at pinnacles?
looking like it.....
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just start bolting.....rivet or 2....
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It's all there if you want to waste the metal. Make sure your rivets are 3/8" and about 4" long
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Them dimensions sound like re-bar.
Use some glue and they are A1?
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I propose that any heads left fixed, trenched between cobbles at Pinns, be called cobbledikheads.
In honor of anyone who would weight one.
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I propose that any heads left fixed, trenched between cobbles at Pinns, be called cobbledikheads.
In honor of anyone who would weight one.
Sh#t John, you musta had your coffee early this morning. That was pretty damn funny. I'm supposed to see him this morning, It'll make him laugh too.
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Have fun!
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Just talked to Steve again about crackaphobia.
He said he is pretty sure he did not aid the crack.
However, he did mention drilling the 1st pitch of son of dawn direct solo. He thought SOD wall was to be an FA.
It had already been climbed prior to his attempt.
Shortly thereafter, he repeated sod wall, complete with the original start for its 2nd ascent.
Cool history.
Pigeon crack looks bagalaar.
Edited for clarity:
I haven't been in contact with him for a bit now, but Chuck Clance had told me he did the second ascent of Son of Dawn Wall with the original start. He seemed dumbfounded to hear about the direct first pitch bolt ladder. He said if you're gonna climb it, do the original start. I haven't climbed it yet.
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...he said if you're gonna climb it, do the original start. I haven't climbed it yet.
Do both starts and you'll have done two different routes (nobody is limited to just one ;) ).
The original start is loose, scary, relatively easy, garbage climbing. I'd never do it again (but I had to do it once!!).