MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on December 31, 2013, 03:02:21 PM
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Might as well start a thread about the route itself. We still have to finish it, and there will be more photos and then, eventually an addition to the new routes thread:
Tricia following Steve's lead:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3771/11671272803_91dbc845d5_c.jpg)
Steve's hands (while he finishes the last moves on the first pitch):
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/11671375644_58c08625d1_c.jpg)
John drilling on the second pitch:
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2805/11671384164_a86f2d7ccc_c.jpg)
Laura leading the first pitch:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/11671227153_edaab0881a_c.jpg)
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Damn! If its only going to be 5.7 maybe I should freesolo the rest of it and let you know what to expect.
Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).
Actually, I don't believe you'd be so class-less as to steal a project that we've put so much work into so far, it just isn't you.
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Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).
Actually, I don't believe you'd be so class-less as to steal a project that we've put so much work into so far, it just isn't you.
Classic brad response- been too long man!
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Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).
say it that one of them do-it yer self will sites??
I already get Squiddo's cams.
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KC did a solid lead to the belay today - first onsight of 2014 :) for her - and a proud lead.
I followed and led back out beyond the belay, brushed some more and put loctite on all the bolts that needed it.
Everything is solid and ready for this weekend's sojourn - can't wait to push this thing higher :)
Brad's on deck in the bolter's box :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fqcVWLNx2qTkyDextxuN_Hl0iaCplJyOES1X8nGBupGOEwfGtmZw3ewJY7wtUKcK-c7uBwrnL3ipslU-Nqmsr3Hxnj19RzLygBch-H4LH_LddVe4O2nb8kbayJoyMwmsroR2RTM2Pv_iQQJ7FrnaS1=w750-h513-no?authuser=0)
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From Wikipedia: "The In Crowd" is a 1964 song written by Billy Page and arranged by his brother Gene that was originally performed by Dobie Gray on his album Dobie Gray Sings for In Crowders That Go Go. Gray's powerful Motown-like version, complete with brass section, reached #13 in the US and #25 in the UK in 1965.
I've heard it many, many times, and yet I had no idea that Dobie Gray did this song. I had no idea that he even had any hits before "Drift Away" in the late 1970s.
Of course here it refers to the group that started the first ascent; we were staying at the Inn at the Pinnacles that weekend.
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Sweet progress, taking it down this weekend?
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Sweet progress, taking it down this weekend?
As my beloved Victrola says: "The Lord willing and the creek don't rise..."
Either way, we'll have some fun.
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As my beloved Victrola says: "The Lord willing and the creek don't rise..."
Either way, we'll have some fun.
Ahhhh you married well my friend
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Brad, Joel and I finished The Inn Crowd today. A total of 22 bolts placed (two - 3 bolt belays) - Brad did 12 (both belays), JC 7, Mr. Mud 1, Jim Mc 1, Alan 1, Joel 1/2. I'll let Brad fill in the blanks - just wanted to give a BIG shout out to team Young - woohoo!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dEj79-xdo946hesHbiMk8FHifQlDzvSDMPsKS_1bezQvOimkxS2KicJgpl6ygd7_y56wYUHGgV8KDZ0IeABYdVEc3bMo9QOY4b3Zp_p0VhfT_p7ivxfffoiar53lUtEiifAI6WK6Ksx4yhLgqHp7l9=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Now that is a great photo - right down to the smile.
Brad, Joel and I finished The Inn Crowd today. A total of 22 bolts placed(two - 3 bolt belays) - Brad did 12 (both belays), JC 7, Mr. Mud 1, Jim Mc 1, Alan 1, Joel 1/2. I'll let Brad fill in the blanks - just wanted to give a BIG shout out to team Young - woohoo!
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/IMG_8365_zps905fea5c.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/JCwKCredux/media/IMG_8365_zps905fea5c.jpg.html)
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This may be my favorite first ascent of all those I've done at Pinns. Long, well protected, great views, good exposure, a first pitch belay on a beach-ball sized lodestone that is best described as a wonderful perch. It's now been climbed a bunch (up and down over the days of working on it) and I think there is a good consensus of 5.6 and two stars. With some rain (if ever) it'll get cleaned up of drill and rock dust and dirt; then it will not only climb pretty, it'll look pretty.
Got buzzed a bunch by condors while we were climbing on it on Saturday - I swear one flew within ten feet of us on the first pitch belay.
Here's a photo from the West Side parking of the south end of the Balconies Upper Tier (taken in the morning to accentuate the shadows):
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/11800456824_139a61570d_b.jpg)
Here's the same shot made into a photo-topo showing The Inn Crowd and the several new/newly discovered routes near it:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/11811356403_691a6d61ba_b.jpg)
I'll prepare and post a formal entry in the new routes sticky later today.
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Love the adventure gents and can't wait to climb them. Thanks for the continued love affair with the Pinns.
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sweet
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Whoo Hooo
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Looks very fun! I thought it might be up in that area from a couple of earlier photos. I did not see anybody climbing up there on Friday so I guess you finished up over the weekend.
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Actually, as I think about it, I'd call Los Banditos my favorite FA at Pinns. The Inn Crowd is second though, it was just a great series of adventures.
(And yes Jeff, we finished over Saturday and Sunday.)
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Actually, as I think about it, I'd call Los Banditos my favorite FA at Pinns.
The Inn Crowd is second though, it was just a great series of adventures.
That means TIC is your favorite free climb AND I bet it's the only multi-pitch that people can sit and watch in its entirety from their cars - it's like a drive-in movie!:)
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Here's the written description of the route (I just posted this in the new routes sticky too):
711.6 The Inn Crowd 5.6 ** The Inn Crowd starts 100 yards to the south (climber's right) of If We Bolt It They Will Come. It starts to the right of the class three/four ramp which leads up to the routes Desperate Abandon and Gold Line. Look for a slight, up-and-right weakness/ramp that allows passage between upper and lower rotten headwalls. The first bolt on the route can be seen about 20 feet above the ground (the climbing to this bolt is very easy). A total of ten bolts on the first pitch lead up and right (at about a 45 degree angle) 115 feet to a three bolt belay on a beach ball size lodestone (bring and use slings on this pitch). The second pitch continues right past one bolt and then continues straight up past five more to another three bolt anchor (six bolts total on this pitch). It is 75 feet from the top of the first pitch to the top of the second. Descend by scrambling down the Desperate Abandon ramp (start with a very exposed scramble from the second pitch bolt anchor onto the ramp), or by rappel. Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope, and while the rappel from the top of the second pitch to the top of the first is only 75 feet, the rappel from the top of the first pitch to the ground is 118 feet (the last 50 of which are completely overhanging) and this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope! The Inn Crowd is a very sunny climb; it's in the sun from early morning until the sun sets. It is a good route for cold days. Finally, two further items of explanation: First, the second pitch of this route ends at a stance on a steeper section of wall just below the ramp and about 20 feet below the one protection bolt on the route Desperate Abandon. The route ends here so that no bolts were added to or within sight of Desperate Abandon and so that the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd was not "diluted" by joining/finishing on the fairly run out upper part of that route. Second, the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd should be understood (and forgiven) since the combined ages of the first ascentionists exceed 350 years. FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Tricia Young, Joel Primrose, Alan Nilsson, Dennis Erik Mud, Jim McConachie. FA Date: January 5, 2014. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
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Brad-
can't wait to try it. So I'm curious as I don't believe you have installed 3 bolt anchors on your other lines. Any particular reason, rock quality, etc?
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Brad-
can't wait to try it. So I'm curious as I don't believe you have installed 3 bolt anchors on your other lines. Any particular reason, rock quality, etc?
Two reasons for two different three-bolt anchors:
At the top of the first pitch I put in an absolutely bomber (nearly granite hard rock), perfectly equalized two-bolt anchor. But, knowing that we'd have up to four people up there at once, and seeing that there was a lot of room there to stand on big lodestones, I put in a third bolt 30 inches to the left to accommodate multiple people (yes, a convenience bolt).
Yesterday, at the top of the second pitch I started a first bolt from a stance in what I thought was OK to good rock. The hole then went to hell, and while I was able to place a long, stainless Rawl-type bolt that tightened up nicely, it's not a great bolt. So I used that first bolt to hold me while I placed two more bolts (one good and one great) a little higher. These two upper bolts have the rappel chains; we didn't even bother putting chain on the not as good bolt.
Whatever happens, the belay bolts have got to be good. I think I had four failed holes after the first, not so good bolt at the top (maybe five extra inches of drilling for failed holes - I was pretty damn spent by the time that anchor was done). As indicated above though, I did eventually get in two belay quality bolts.
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Two reasons for two different three-bolt anchors:
At the top of the first pitch I put in an absolutely bomber (nearly granite hard rock), perfectly equalized two-bolt anchor. But, knowing that we'd have up to four people up there at once, and seeing that there was a lot of room there to stand on big lodestones, I put in a third bolt 30 inches to the left to accommodate multiple people (yes, a convenience bolt).
Yesterday, at the top of the second pitch I started a first bolt from a stance in what I thought was OK to good rock. The hole then went to hell, and while I was able to place a long, stainless Rawl-type bolt that tightened up nicely, it's not a great bolt. So I used that first bolt to hold me while I placed two more bolts (one good and one great) a little higher. The these two upper bolts have the rappel chains; we didn't even bother putting chain on the not as good bolt.
Whatever happens, the belay bolts have got to be good. I think I had four failed holes after the first, not so good bolt at the top (maybe five extra inches of drilling for failed holes - I was pretty damn spent by the time that anchor was done). As indicated above though, I did eventually get in two belay quality bolts.
Thanks Brad and I was wondering if that was the culprit. Appreciate the bomber gear
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Can one safely connect the p2 anchor on IC to DA?
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Can one safely connect the p2 anchor on IC to DA?
Yes, absolutely. When Joel came up to the top of the second pitch of The Inn Crowd he scrambled easily up on to the Desperate Abandon class three/four ramp. All of the class five on Desperate Abandon is above that point, so continuing up Desperate Abandon might be seen as a "third" pitch so to speak.
Since Joel was up on that ramp, I had him check to see if a Desperate Abandon climber could see the bolt anchor on The Inn Crowd. He couldn't see our bolts from that route (although from our top anchor one can easily see the one protection bolt on Desperate Abandon).
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Glad to run into you guys after the FA. Looking forward to getting on the climb!
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Brian, you made it! Welcome to the site.
It was nice to meet some young folks who seem to have a great sense of adventure. We'll hope to see more of you and of Carrie and Mason. Meanwhile, have fun on your road (air?) trip.
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Glad to run into you guys after the FA. Looking forward to getting on the climb!
Dude! I remember my first post :)
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Dude! I remember my first post :)
Lol so do we
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It looks like the post counter isn't advancing again!
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It looks like the post counter isn't advancing again!
You crack me up, maybe mr mud will cheat it
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set them all to zero
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Lol but that's like the meanest thing!
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Congrats all!, on putting up a well protected for its rating route.
I had a bolt crap out on me this weekend too, bummer.
We might need a negative "star" rating for Pinns. Like 5.8 -2.5 stars.
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Congrats all!, on putting up a well protected for its rating route.
I had a bolt crap out on me this weekend too, bummer.
We might need a negative "star" rating for Pinns. Like 5.8 -2.5 stars.
Actually Jon, I've used two informal "negative star" ratings for years.
If a route isn't very good (i.e. one negative star) I've called it "N.W.T.M." (Not Worth the Metal).
More commonly I skip right to "negative two stars" using "A.T.D.S." (Absolute Total Dog S… - well you get the idea). There is actually a toprope route in the Sew What Needles called A.T.D.S. You oughta go climb it for a true "taste." ;D
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[quote author=Brad Young link=topic=1977.msg24867#msg24867 date=1389115218
More commonly I skip right to "negative two stars" using "A.T.D.S." (Absolute Total Dog S… - well you get the idea). There is actually a toprope route in the Sew What Needles called A.T.D.S. You oughta go climb it for a true "taste." ;D
[/quote]
Gotta disagree, I've never tasted dog crap and I'm fairly certain I would not like the flavor.....
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suh-weet! cant wait to get on it.
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moving north?
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Cool line,
I remember Brad trying to be all sneaky on the trip up to do the "800 club", scoping and poking around over there...
Way to pull it all together, that route looks sweet.
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Cool line,
I remember Brad trying to be all sneaky on the trip up to do the "800 club", scoping and poking around over there...
Way to pull it all together, that route looks sweet.
Brad isn't "sneaky."
And BTW, changing the subject for a moment. Vicki showed me your blurb on Bookface with the engagement photo. If I recall, you said something under the photo along the lines of "[you were] really looking forward to the rest of the photos."
Dude, I'm a lot, lot older than you are, so let me give you some thoughts about what I saw and what I've seen: First, I think you've made some damn good decisions. Second, I think you're very lucky. Third, I think that was in fact a good photo. But, fourth, I think you should have phrased your comment differently; it should have been about how you were "really looking forward to the rest of your life."
You're headed to a great place man.
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Brad,
That was Laura's comment shared on Josh's page.
omg, old guys shouldn't tech vicariously. ;)
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Brad,
That was Laura's comment shared on Josh's page.
omg, old guys shouldn't tech vicariously. ;)
;D
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A.T.D.S., I like it. No I don't actually. Never tasted it either!
We sucked this last weekend, so it was nice to see the pics of the inn crowd.
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Thanks Brad!
I feel very lucky indeed!
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You're headed to a great place man.
Ah, yes the place of changing diapers, being exiled to the basement and getting woken up at 3am.
Seriously, congratulations!!
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Ah, yes the place of changing diapers, being exiled to the basement and getting woken up at 3
Jealous F4!
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Me?
I just go paroled from the basement!
It's all good.
Short term memory helps.
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Me?
I just go paroled from the basement!
It's all good.
Short term memory helps.
Lol with you bro, my kids are starting to collude.....all fun
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Lol with you bro, my kids are starting to collude.....all fun
Then comes the day you can't find your car keys because one of them took and hid them to keep you home.
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moving north?
no concrete plans yet ($) but if a weekend opens up, a mellow day or two at the pinns sounds fun...
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say the word, we'll make it happen.
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Serious fun today - will wrap it tomorrow and post details on the new alternate finish.
Brad on the strenuous stance for bolt 3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fxPxrbAIg_LamKriP1xGSAy3r0iIqWqMQcHGdujfjSty9Ix6XJoXvZSENzum_HxgaQcQYoDsq2Ev_-U-kuEGdiApO2txqjhL5OeNzJDD6N4WgaffBLyiAz7J0scISXVnxQU5OXjlcW-gpd1BhDCEY-=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC takes over for a laid back bolt 4
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cAkU9yt2fhbyphMF7HyGggzsoq9SjYfmXz8UTTHN7DqIz9xMkT46ZNuPdMVmoXQx1cR7kIPi_XGfJsQid7hm8vPfxJVdPwLB6xrc7WToHfPg7zUf0yKE4fdaZvYVP-7Gez1g8M9KjYaEhRdnUQHmhO=w470-h625-no?authuser=0)
and the last bolt of the day
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbMqwiQMJ9h7w701UD9QtzhbLzaMj5-qNz0no8rvAxu-rMtOvQ9VAWcxYY-CFb8iUukQ0PHUcY-ClR2rxIV0NmV5KEzH9_az00PoDB9HVVYvZ-7uQSjLgURwh-na821OaLlRS23tf8TQ2oi0Dz2HVt=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
followed by a few close encounters of the bird kind
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cndFmCvBa3xrWOx1FxKIYd5pFUs5Lj3s8q10PxcUGJ4ViJ78D8b3JYnmwk2laPHGQvGYrzAGMe_DNSxnWOC-fGWJNMqT6EJudnUPtVTa9_SLgh3Z_Dn1zKSKRrQUT24n4eNpeMRLAvL7jK4bDlyEfj=w638-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Love the bird shot! Looks like fun.
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K.C. got a very lucky and wonderful shot of that condor passing under us. Here's the uncropped shot:
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2855/11900367235_8017558389_c.jpg)
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While Aaron, Bob and I were hiking up to work on Pinns first 4star route, we decided officially on "High Peaks Drifter" as the name for the west side of the Lump. Which was the excellent suggestion of Kathy. Thanks.
I also have never seen any of you at the west side parking lot. We show up, sort gear, pick up trash, but you "Inn" guys don't show. So I have a suggestion for your route name "The Sleeping Inn Crowd"
Nice stance shot
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While Aaron, Bob and I were hiking up to work on Pinns first 4star route, we decided officially on "High Peaks Drifter" as the name for the west side of the Lump. Which was the excellent suggestion of Kathy. Thanks.
I also have never seen any of you at the west side parking lot. We show up, sort gear, pick up trash, but you "Inn" guys don't show. So I have a suggestion for your route name "The Sleeping Inn Crowd"
Nice stance shot
Change made (always at your command). The "new" name does have a nice ring to it.
Funny thing though on the parking lot: we've yet to see you by the time we start hiking out (luckily we can get really early starts on this route - by the time we get to the base it's always sunny).
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While Aaron, Bob and I were hiking up to work. I have a suggestion for your route name "The Sleeping Inn Crowd"
You're clearly hanging with the wrong crowd dood :)
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And, BTW, Clink, I've registered a formal protest with the site hosts (or at least I'm gonna, as soon as I'm done sleeping Inn).
The protest is based on your theft of Waldo, who we asked to join us last weekend (we gapped on getting in touch with him for yesterday though - if you grabbed him for yesterday we may have to reduce the charges we'll be bringing against you).
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We needed Waldo to test bolts and Aaron's sorry rope. Climbing up to finally gain the watershoot, he took a fantastic leadfall with a bounce, a half gainer, then a pendulum slam behind first into the wall. He is truly a first class hard ass and my hero.
I hope he is not to sore today.
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Just heard from Waldo. Some bruises, but otherwise fine.
Go Niner's!
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your all guilty. we take one FA (our choice) from each of you.
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I usually charge for bolt testing when I throw in the half gainer.
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Waldo - glad you are okay.
Shout out to Brad for another great weekend.
We had a great day climbing back up and getting in the anchor for the alternate water chute finish.
We had the pleasure of watching a young couple - Peter and Mikka - lead p1 of The Inn Crowd as we were hiking out.
We couldn't stick around to watch them do either of the upper pitches - I doubt they had time to do both before sundown.
They were both at the p1 anchor when we got back to the parking lot.
I'll be headed back up there this coming weekend to put some chains on the anchor we did today and apply some finishing touches elsewhere. It should be completely done just in time for the closures.
Brad drilling the anchor for the water chute finish
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2qBYH3QGVFlSHmF9QZUU3c2uTab_VDI3fopatMXZ0Mdb661uT26PoOgQOIXVa3nwiGidh8twG4ACFnVbqWTTzUq_g_AgQSi0mjUpyYmCLwJXiRGrYIwjjo0mEWkLJODatRasug7qpeiKecbXWL6Lf=w700-h601-no?authuser=0)
Peter leads The Inn Crowd
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dqdjWAa7bZTXcpeS5W1nKdMcifq8janUjqCthtkFwtKvvTzvCZTFNgOBGU9mGCUccwqNiev0AO4IHqrS32uzKx9hVC8-49SpogMEBRKUJs2C-BodNqtg4R9LcOImPeBvXH9ilNOj7eX6cAmHDDtXcj=w700-h621-no?authuser=0)
Peter at The Inn Crowd's pitch 1 anchor
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cfr67UzS0IOogQhVJOUCFgzXOLe0IvyT8s9OnyWCtq01fEL_TyWFqEusBb2YoJ2Pf1DbdOeFZim-7RbhXAf9845BROQtSv4j7lm2ZRZi2TKwtQfvTZ-qcdcnxtIKv4aMqwQA08G1ZznmzXIsoRlhbF=w601-h625-no?authuser=0)
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The new route we completed today is an alternative second pitch to The Inn Crowd. It shares the first pitch of The Inn Crowd, and the first three bolts of that route's second pitch. It then diverges right, into the obvious water streak and continues past five more bolts (eight total for the new second pitch). It has a separate two-bolt anchor.
It's 5.7, and, like The Inn Crowd, it's pretty fun (two out of three stars). The crux is a fairly steep but featured headwall in the streak. We named it "The Brosseau Finish."
The name comes from the proprietors of "The Inn," Jan and Jon Brosseau. These are two really great people; excellent hosts who serve tasty breakfasts, provide wonderful company, and make excellent wine (wine which has "The Brosseau Finish"). They've become very good friends over the years.
Here's a revised photo topo showing also the new route:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3667/11922851936_2d93e4d5a0_b.jpg)
I'll add a route description to the new routes sticky when I get a chance.
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Nice job on the photo/topo Brad!
Encouraging Peter and Mikka to post their feedback on The Inn Crowd and whichever finish they chose.
signed,
the crux thief :)
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So I have a suggestion for your route name "The Sleeping Inn Crowd"
Clink didn't we show up at the Inn just before 8 and tried to wait for sleepy heads to get in gear? I think that name seems really apropos.
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New Rule - you can't climb The Inn Crowd or The Brosseau Finish unless you first lead either Flies on A Pile, Tiburcio's Ambush or Tiburcio's Upper.
Brad leads Flies on a Pile :yikes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djVEya0a2zrlOCuE-NoUuRozh0RANkhfVDtnLMBTsNjFRfKzYiJlZIAIDrAzxQgMml7iJ0SR3F80dhy-CxZSi1KWoCatCUHPoiDXBOYoTUVZ3yl5H8la_n8Hx09X4giAJdbahJgHKPN4_1-cyxjoox=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
from the dark side
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dBxx_57fvx1oFnioSWrdxferiX7Mn_AsP5y9COlQ6db8xS2SCACikkgO70CUE7yyl7aapAzltkeh-909o-I_WQXkxZhp_NSYUfIG3DHwcZUHV4d4ZG7x3TeyqGfnxoS5HulxKDrgFRC3Ht90XDgq2q=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Clink didn't we show up at the Inn just before 8 and tried to wait for sleepy heads to get in gear? I think that name seems really apropos.
To borrow "the" phrase from The Master himself:
DIE!
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New Rule - you can't climb The Inn Crowd or The Brosseau Finish unless you first lead either Flies on A Pile, Tiburcio's Ambush or Tiburcio's Upper.
Can I object to a brand new rule?
Too much pants-crapping from leading Flies on a Pile might result in a smelly The Inn Crowd (I know this from personal experience).
So they might best be climbed in reverse order, The Inn Crowd first.
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Can I object to a brand new rule?
Too much pants-crapping from leading Flies on a Pile might result in a smelly The Inn Crowd (I know this from personal experience).
So they might best be climbed in reverse order, The Inn Crowd first.
Well I guess it Depends. Did either photo give you a shiver? :)
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masters of "mud"?
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Been popping the cork a bit?
Suggestions for your new finish "The Sleeping Inn Hangover Finish" or "Jan and Jon Have the Good Stuff" or "I know a guy and gal..."
Cheers!
BTW. Maybe "Flies on a Pile" was to subliminal for John and Brad. Congrats on surviving the (second?) ascent.
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BTW. Maybe "Flies on a Pile" was to subliminal for John and Brad. Congrats on surviving the (second?) ascent.
Yeah, I'm quite sure it was the second. Likely the last ascent too? Clint told me they named it that for a reason. But, now I've done every 5.9 in the Park in good style (except your new one?).
I was thinking about whether it would make a list of my scariest 10 Pinns leads, and I concluded not. I think maybe the top 25 or 35. Maybe. Pretty scary, but now done and over with.
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So I'm Peter (a first time poster) and the climber from the previous pictures, we did the "standard" pitches of The Inn Crowd last Sunday. The first pitch was a solid length to the logical belay (5.6**). Most bolts probably could take an extended alpine draw, I used mine up early and made some drag through the later bolts. The belay off the lodestone is cool and pretty comfortable. Mikka lead the second pitch and thought that was the standout even though its somewhat easier.
(http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/peter9092/IMG_20140112_161540_zpse4b2bfb7.jpg) (http://s787.photobucket.com/user/peter9092/media/IMG_20140112_161540_zpse4b2bfb7.jpg.html)
Mikka starting up the second pitch, nice 5.5**
(http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/peter9092/IMG_20140112_172802_zpsf46b6699.jpg) (http://s787.photobucket.com/user/peter9092/media/IMG_20140112_172802_zpsf46b6699.jpg.html)
The dramatic first pitch rappel as dusk falls.
I thought the bolting was pretty reasonable and nothing to apologize for. I'll be back for the The Brosseau Finish at some point.
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Nice pics, and welcome to the forum!
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I thought the bolting was pretty reasonable and nothing to apologize for. I'll be back for the The Brosseau Finish at some point.
Hello Peter. It was a really nice surprise to meet both of you out there.
The route description's "apology" for the close bolting was made with tongue firmly in cheek ;D
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Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
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Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
;D
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Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
Nice
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Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
Does that mean I can't get banned from Sph? Mr. Mud would never ban me.
Right??
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I thought you were already banned? ;D
btw, are you climbing ready yet?
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I thought you were already banned? ;D
btw, are you climbing ready yet?
Was he ever? ;D
Come on F4!
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I thought both you guys got life time bans.
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testing testing testing
nope, can still post.
might talk to your admin about blocking my IPs. ;)
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Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
Maybe we should drive to the snow park and see if the gates are closed?
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So I'm Peter (a first time poster)
I'll be back for the The Brosseau Finish at some point.
Nice Peter - are you a long time lurker?
I think my favorite part was when you reached the belay and Brad and I both "woo-hoo'd" followed by your "sweeeet"!
I'll be adding chains to the Brosseau anchor Saturday and doing a little more remedial work on the upper part of pitch 2 on The Inn Crowd. I'll do the Brosseau work first so if people show up to do the route - only p2 of The Inn Crowd will be "closed" - and then hopefully only for a short while.
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Maybe we should drive to the snow park and see if the gates are closed?
They are. But hey, stop by for dinner and a beer.
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They are. But hey, stop by for dinner and a beer.
Maybe you should all go to the Sierra and stay there - and quit jackin' the thread!
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JC and KC is the official thread police. Gonna have to make him/them a mod.
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I'll be adding chains to the Brosseau anchor Saturday and doing a little more remedial work on the upper part of pitch 2 on The Inn Crowd.
J.C. I think it might be fair to explain what "remedial work" means in context? Maybe without using Fixe's specific name when you describe the stainless/carbon steel shipping and labeling screwup >:D
Without an explanation, it sounds kinda weird.
And is everyone else going to Pinns this weekend? I can't believe you'd all go without me ???
Still, I'm soooo looking forward to a long weekend hanging with my girls, here in my own little piece of heaven. I ain't going nowhere.
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I am thinking of going down one day. Will have to see how it goes.
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J.C. I think it might be fair to explain what "remedial work" means in context?
Without an explanation, it sounds kinda weird.
Please Lucy - don't make me splain!
Maybe I should have said cosmetic.
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btw, are you climbing ready yet?
Doc says "do what's comfortable", "Oh and BTW, it's takes 12months for the shit to really, really heal".......
They had to re-attach the labium @ intersection of my bicep and shoulder (in addition to the back as well). So it can get pissed easily.
So "yes" I can climb, just easy stuff, but Jail House is a Nada.
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Dude the only thing you have been doing at Jail House lately is talking to the guys.
;)
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Dude that only thing you have been doing at Jail House lately is talking to the guys.
;)
Don't confuse jailhouse with The Winking Lantern.....
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A guy can dream?
But the days of hard sport climbing are over for now.
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hope you get back to climbing 5.7 with the rest of us.
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going to climb this thing this weekend! WOOT!
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going to climb this thing this weekend! WOOT!
We'll be there tomorrow.
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We'll be there tomorrow.
Rob wants you to stash beer for Sunday. Please
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I might be there on Monday or may Sunday. This weather is too good.
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Rob wants you to stash beer for Sunday. Please
Agreed. A mutual location in the shade needs to be established.
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Hope it is getting some traffic today while I sit at home and pout without a partner - I tried to recruit to no avail.
My right heel is still a bit angry at me anyway - I think I'll take it for a walk on the beach.
Final stats on the routes:
A total of 29 bolts placed - 30 bolts used - One replaced after it was a spinner.
Three rap stations with chains - two of the stations (The Inn Crowd) have a third "convenience" bolt.
Total climbing length is just over 300 feet for the three pitches - The Inn Crowd pitch 1 = 115feet (10 bolts), pitch 2 = 75 feet (6 bolts) and the extra sweet Brosseau Finish is 105 feet (8 bolts).
You might be able to fry bacon and eggs at the P1 belay today.
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Home sick for the second day, I feel for you. Planned to do Feather Canyon today but doing household chores.
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Bummer- if it happened I'd say bring a bolt kit!! Baaaad bolts
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Home sick for the second day, I feel for you. Planned to do Feather Canyon today but doing household chores.
Bummer you're sick - lots of stuff going around right now.
I want to do FC too.
I'll try to remember to talk to Bruce and Clint about the bad bolts on it Wednesday.
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Hi all! My name is Matt, and I ran into a bunch of you a couple of weeks ago at the west-side parking lot. Brad, JC, KC and possibly some others?
Anyway, I was with a group of 4, we mentioned heading over to climb the Inn Crowd route later in the day, and were asked to give an opinion on route here on the forums. You are all a brave group asking for someone's opinion online, so it's the least I can do to offer one :)
We spent the morning climbing around on the flumes, and then split up in the afternoon. Rachel and I split off to the Inn Crowd, while the other two went after Lava Falls. Only we were short one rope in the group and had to hike back to the car to get an extra rope and didn't make it to the base of the climb until late afternoon. The directions here were good, we found the route without much trouble. Which is saying a lot. I have a bad habit of making extra long approaches and then getting off-route.
We climbed both pitches, but were running out of daylight so we didn't get a chance for the alternate finish It looks like a lot of fun, I'll have to return to get it. It was weird climbing on such a well-protected route at Pinns. I don't think I have anything original to say about the climb. Good exposure and it was fun cruising up the Balconies. First time I've ever climbed up there. Great addition of a moderate multi-pitch climb in the park.
I kinda hate myself for saying it, but I can only give the route 2 stars. Rock quality on P2 especially was sub-par. I'm curious how well it'll hold up to traffic. Not that it was the worst rock (you know, like the upper band on Machete), but there were a lot of hollow bits. And a lot of stuff coming down on rappel. I'm glad the route traverses, I'm glad there's no reason for anyone to be at the base of the cliff, and I certainly wouldn't want to be climbing over another party.
One big caveat.. the belay station at the end of P1 is worth 3 stars and then some. Amazing standing on that giant load stone and watching the park. I'd climb the pitch just to have lunch there. Coming down, we sat on the load stone and watched the sunset before heading down. Awesome ending to the day.
A huge thanks to EVERYONE here who helped build this route. It's a serious addition to the Pinnacles cannon, and deserves a lot respect.
Hope to see you all out there sometime again!
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Thanks for the feedback Matt.
I have to say I prefer the alternate finish - both the climbing and the rock quality are superior imo.
Sounds like you had fun. We spotted you from the High Peaks and still managed to watch from the parking lot with binocs. You were sitting on top and she was rapping.
As with any new Pinns route it will take some time to clean up.
It is also pretty easy to deviate from the exact line we followed stance to stance - enough to get into some untrafficked territory. We joked about being able to set up a picnic table at the belay. You'll have to check out The Hand p1 belay.
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With Matt's input it sounds like two out of three stars is a good consensus? I agree with everything you said Matt, especially about that belay.
I have yet to get on it since we finished it. I'd like to see it now, after it's been rained on a bit (I only climbed it when it still had drill dust and dirt everywhere).
J.C., maybe we should do it again during this year's Inn weekend. I know, we can sleep in with our wives, have a great breakfast, get a leisurely start and, in the process, make Aaron and Clink jealous all over again...
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Good route put up by great people in an amazing location
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Hi, Matt
Welcome to the Forum
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I know, we can sleep in with our wives, have a great breakfast, get a leisurely start and
And that is why we dubbed it the "Sleeping Inn Crowd"
Not once did we see you guys in the parking lot. Planning on checking it out on Sunday.
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And that is why we dubbed it the "Sleeping Inn Crowd"
All hail the king of comebacks!
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maybe the sleeping in the rain crowd.
the inn does have a nice hot tub and fireplace.....
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Beautiful weather yesterday!
Cochran following on The Sleeping Inn Crowd.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TAHkSIOyh_k/VHNqe4EjZ0I/AAAAAAAAaYI/1m5KzQfgHf0/w392-h696-no/20141123_104352.jpg)
Zoom in... Mike, Todd and John in his full regalia on top.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KsK7k_-kIRY/VHNqe4pyWXI/AAAAAAAAaYo/GeNI3SsbrdU/w908-h511-no/20141123_120749.jpg)
The base of the Inn Crowd....Look at the bones!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SCq4naHfPh4/VHNqe5qDsDI/AAAAAAAAaYI/2MH_PR3LdW4/w908-h511-no/20141123_114517.jpg)
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^^oh, you discovered where I like to grab some shade to eat my KFC lunch.
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^^oh, you discovered where I like to grab some shade to eat my KFC lunch.
Good one Noal :)
Here's a few more pics from yesterday with a slight thread drift
Aaron took lead honors or was he clink’s rope bitch?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cFQ_-9BAkJ56HnXd_FmrklJwUUny6yxa42T0Cz37kFKBmP2OnsQZTesl8XShqKPQUKfdtJmULZeZRrhJp4uXnZEzPjqCGoTofLvanrGo2HLoz8uymaYIm0v1VvDT3xuF7MFza7HVT-WMdEjSOKT4xq=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink at the first bolt I placed…I believe
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d0r8daesT9IO7z4sUbUuM5E8jpF04Lud1JhdbyBrcGsYL80-_itdB61WuDn2LXLEoUdZipmXpiUiP74YHfBdaND6hK7UeznLa5x8n3GYepH3Yvm-nGGzyzVp5_1uvMw1wTr7fj00esMcrDYufV__st=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
I was feeling Desperate for an onsight, so I Abandoned the Inn Crowd and climbed the ramp above them…
Desperate Abandon 5.6R
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eOCf8FzKRVtroAbe5ka43SVKak2lfwxp-WVNfxWKKNM2azQjfAzlmD1NM7bWrH1QBcG0PbilEXAatl_swPEafQF4FlsKnyUfe6qmmM5WbxiKH_RFgJrKEAgOuUFZmn-16odzElAseomkcngqPNIrjU=w470-h625-no?authuser=0)
Kat followed the spongy damp goodness
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fd6jR0wYyanVz6PvBb_tDVAPHJE7BKEipe5EvkB0sWN64wPYS_mBjcxs_tf0hOyo8AwxmhWj9XbbvIiSwq6XtNnRAfRv79YxtAGpCkcRs6abgNluI7puPDnJSXYiARaK6sT8VjQRZ9qf0MjGhPAQpe=w650-h488-no?authuser=0)
The description says: After three hundred feet, pass a very deep water streak on the left. Belay at a single bolt on the main wall, above/to the right of and outside of the streak.
I’d seen this POS (star dryvin with an SMC death hanger) on previous occasions - while working on The Inn Crowd - but didn’t realize how small it is – a ¼” Star Dryvin (not sure I have ever seen another one of these at Pinns)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3erWpjd7xpqExetuofchYd-EHyqr9plLCHtGwoF1VUVGgkeCKvSNykOuLFnPHGRhXtOqQ7PM-0tRXuLugoDe8cCKx-SL3DyJNY4wRkM_e791rebmd0VTrNwYk3rUTWXB1kb-gNJYQR7q1_e6P5_W2er=w518-h625-no?authuser=0)
Needless to say, I thought it wise for Kat to stay at the base/entrance to Gold Line and belay there while I continued up and used the belay bolt as lead pro…
I’m at the second bolt here wondering how much additional therapy I’ll eventually need…
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3clAV56C86YKsGu8lrzCGPIIPiSx4RodiOAF6AhS_B7H64vu1F1nYfLJPydGs8GwUT8Hf7ex97QRdCP4ecNUuzYrxyEc_cLbHwHy8Esy2M3DgQnx-UxLs_tEv7YkqzLbGnV-WiwhwGFkXA1aMWfNZwI=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
2nd bolt on Desperate Abandon 5.6R - for the crux move (you're gonna die!)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cEC40pm9xPEPXITzWgbh4ji3o8OG_iH6PjroxZwFUpiKlqt5se_JCo2KOjjnSIj56jGlIBYskOjXbQkINV4-vvMYfbX6UGJWnygBi4qwnrjsOuvRKT-fWX1W6JJix54eeJIPuqRqSV6hk-PYsSZQ4D=w700-h591-no?authuser=0)
I had my tools to replace the bolts on this route but after climbing it, I decided it isn't worth the bother - may those that follow in my footsteps enjoy it as much as I did. Brad, Jim, Kat and I are probably the only people to ever climb this "found" route.
Later we enjoyed some relaxing fun at Smiling Simian with the whole gang and Caleb’s boys
Colton follows Smiling Simian 5.0
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d4GPbFgFFRBp2mfKeJ2XUBWqLpwimWhWV8V4WVc6NgHRsDMxBaCziEAAJNZ7nXJ-KgDs6CzP4L2Q8HdqBiIn3pChIp2jVH-L23eKcde1v4nl9TFBH9f4lJ4NiVnECgF-W-JXdPyS-2niNm7w20Tu_O=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Layton follows Smiling Simian 5.0
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c5z9kZNdc2hCk89e49Y6SvABUU2P3b-favpixvDtDRdJPJnKF_Bt_zyJYY8dMIjxq8X7MMpVQxF0EPWQzTXA4O5mV6z3OtIAE_A53XP-LY4ivL3TXztnXJDuaYKXmXKr9dGXwnqHQ9aM-Xn4egtlYi=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Beautiful weather yesterday!
Cochran following on The Sleeping Inn Crowd.
Nice Aaron, Brad said he was going to have to get back at you for the name slaughtering. >:D
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but didn’t realize how small it is – maybe a ¼” Star Dryvin?
Iffy looking, JC.
Aaron took lead honors or was he clink’s rope bitch?
You are my only current official rope bitch. ;D
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Iffy looking, JC.
You are my only current official rope bitch. ;D
Actually clink - that first one is the "good" bolt ;)
and just to clarify a couple definitions:
Rope gun - a bad ass climber who leads stuff you can't - so you can follow...
Rope bitch - a climber crazy enough to lead the stuff you could but don't want to :)
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nice pics JC
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Nice Aaron, Brad said he was going to have to get back at you for the name slaughtering. >:D
No, I didn't need to get back at Aaron for deliberately mis-stating the name of a route that was put up by his social superiors. I merely questioned aloud why a man who obviously can't afford to take leisure time would try to slur those who are of a class so different from (and above) his own that they have plenty of it.
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^^oh, you discovered where I like to grab some shade to eat my KFC lunch.
And Noal it's about time you climb with us/us with you. We're doing the Inn weekend starting December 5th. Any chance you can come down and join us for a day?
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Hey Brad, I have that whole weekend free. Would love to go climbing with you guys.
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maybe me to? And James to boot to carry my gear.
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maybe me to? And James to boot to carry my gear.
And by gear you mean beer
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And by gear you mean beer
With ice.
A man has his standards.
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Hey Brad, I have that whole weekend free. Would love to go climbing with you guys.
Excellent. Would you message me your contact info so we can coordinate plans?
And it's true that we don't get early starts on this particular weekend; but we do climb. J.C. and I have a certain area tour planned that you might like to join us on.
And F4 - this tour would be too much if James is along. But if it ends up being just you, I think it'll include some easier but out of the way routes that, combined with the hiking, might be good rebuilding/therapy.
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With ice.
A man has his standards.
Agreed.
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Will miss this since I will be in flight on my way to India on the 5th.
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Will miss this since I will be in flight on my way to India on the 5th.
Is this payback from the conference call?
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for postponing the trip two months ago.
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Thanks all for the warm welcome!
I'm interested in getting my kids climbing out there sometime... what does the base of smiling simian look like? Enough level ground for a 4 and a 6 year old to goof around without falling off a cliff? Seems like there's a good 5.easy route up the rock!
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Thanks all for the warm welcome!
I'm interested in getting my kids climbing out there sometime... what does the base of smiling simian look like? Enough level ground for a 4 and a 6 year old to goof around without falling off a cliff? Seems like there's a good 5.easy route up the rock!
Fairly limited as far as them climbing at Smiling Simian. Most of the cliff/boulder is steep to overhanging. The 5.0 route might be OK for young ones, maybe. The base is a safe place for them to hang out.
Closer to the parking lot on the West Side, Big Bad West (page 258) is easy, easy to set up for toprope, and might work for kids that age. And still on Pinnacles West Side, Bouldering Rock (page 270) is short and can provide the same type of toproping. Both are pretty good places for a family to hang out too.
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Big Bad West has the creek to navigate if it's got water sitting in it. Easy to see on the walk into Bouldering Rock etc. and make the call if it works for you.
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I'm interested in getting my kids climbing out there sometime...Enough level ground for a 4 and a 6 year old to goof around without falling off a cliff? Seems like there's a good 5.easy route up the rock!
This might not be the best, but it is about the only other thing I can think of on the West Side.
Maybe after you see how they do The Lamb might work for a little longer adventure - the creek bed/corridor is cool for scrambling around in. There is a series of small steps just upstream that are good for practicing different techniques without getting very far off the ground - plus bonus - there are some big chockstones that will add a cave-like feel in some sections. The Lamb might also make a good beginner climb and you could lower them back down if you have someone to help facilitate at the bottom where the big chockstone kisses the main wall. You might want a back belay. Use the bolt on Josh's new route (The Wolf) to belay and lower from the top.
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A month ago my daughter Rachel and grandson Johnny(3) were exploring the creekbed 100 feet up from Big Bad West and had to retreat quickly from a yellow jacket(?) nest. The trail side of the Lamb is great.
Castle Rock has nicely situated rocks for youngsters. One of my favorites is Shady Rock.
Description
Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.
In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.
A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun! Credit-MountainProject.
We top rope the kids up to the first bolt on the far left of the west face. They like scrambling around the holes, caves and logs in the area.
Indian Rock is good also, but there is drop offs to the east. Platypus has a bit of poison oak, my grandson does laps up the low angled gulley here. Chew Tooth is good but dusty with a cool tree. At California Ridge we tie the kids in( Bandaids On Road-rash is the best 5.7 and easy climb at California Ridge). Base of the right side of Waterfall Cliff is good as well.
If the weather allows we are heading to Castle Rock on Sunday, if we get rained out it will be PacEdge. Have fun climbing.
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I can't Goddamn believe that you just inserted Castle Rock into this thread. Since Dennis is probably still in bed asleep, I'll throw out his best response:
DIE!
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Happy Thanksgiving to you too Brad!
Only morons post on climbing forums today. Smelling any of that good cooking yet?
Have you shaken off your death-sickness?
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Happy Thanksgiving to you too Brad!
Only morons post on climbing forums today. Smelling any of that good cooking yet?
Have you shaken off your death-sickness?
Getting there. I think I was sick and somewhat exhausted. I slept well the last two nights and still took two long naps yesterday. The cough is much better.
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Exploring was a blast, I am primed to blast over there asap.
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not asleep but what he said.
Happy Thanksgiving.
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Exploring was a blast, I am primed to blast over there asap.
Don't even talk about explorations on a forum that Munge is on. As Rachel said, they don't call him "Rob" for nothing. We'll go back and find his stinkin' bolts up there.
Weather coming in for a solid week too.
But yeah, we'll get there as a high priority.
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As my amigo Miwok will oft quote...
CLAIMED!
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At least when reaching our highpoint you can open your favorite beverage.
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duly noted! ;)
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But we roll with cans and not bottles.