MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on January 22, 2014, 09:58:10 PM

Title: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 22, 2014, 09:58:10 PM
Got out with Bruce and Clint today.
We got some excellent work done and picked up at least two grocery bags full of trash on the way out.
I learned a ton of stuff.
Will post a few pics and add more details tomorrow or Friday. THANKS GUYS!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: mungeclimber on January 22, 2014, 10:52:25 PM
nice! and thx guys!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 23, 2014, 08:57:29 AM
Who knows where EVIL lurks?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c8vtXykz2-FsiY-w12qICX-tePZxf7oVu9qtqs7HjL99pjKmpZkGges4JvSe62CNv3lpki5DxEVqEcD3XK14B5-nPva7Nmy2Y5FZEFf08dTI_87Dj4LgERtCjX0jE2MVJ1pbGabh2CJgjt2Ts1awFx=w600-h450-no?authuser=0)



The shadow do!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eevmJAt_Pw2tgcAKHy5_l-Ye_uChvo2cH4CHcgSmvjZW-AU6r0Gqxd6-Y6s6N_fc34yBLZf4TiG2_CBOtU6gcaiviZX6MmwM6fdLutd7XGT2lMrmmlKXeeGpayKXNEs4b0Ca5DASnPufIBqgtA2dtD=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)



Master at work

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dk_I7LfeNO7Kqzp_7Dfo4od5r1Y3aUZFUgWP688weN4IxwVAmjhd59ws84R0mWPOznc69FM3h5GnjPzxBvSXpYpxKsg6qFyXRmmrhD77pLQwoEV1FZefeYC6x4nosDqhw5i_YOP1ClYhcO4CxyHmCk=w666-h625-no?authuser=0)



Tasty new hardware in the salad

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c1k9RFDu9nKFzhncR_d-I8kr_dkSx8utOqTt-un_rP8Y64m9qZl7siSxlPsKKY5xbnMTxWaHkR4fjL-jJD0cNot9ZRJUYr4Y63kIy5uRCN9ULIpdJ-zTV6KJhELA6uNoY85ywR44DCZLq5Pm1kL-0Z=w681-h625-no?authuser=0)



First experience with a tuning fork and a star dryvin

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fUSiJz8bhRaQ0taC3iLRh-jdxteozNBUZ0r74fPGQRLCLaDdCsUUIbLzWFM6jCZS0Lczau9ndG8QPz7Kc3G-G2awUPgxwMN5Y8SM0d66U3Bzz_OglqKOVnoTFYFzDx8YZg5QJ2bW3Zvv84Xe8xWzAN=w600-h542-no?authuser=0)



With the rebolting finished, we turned our focus to clean up – this tubular webbing at the top of Toog’s was so old only one side remained and it ripped away easily.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cNwvg3YVrMEzFSjdztgrTJFpLmIt5BK9kMC7OAW9cjmebmN_PrPJkon6lb19mT6hZUtpz0z6XpnMmF6MY5KQzyMj_GWIKgCTo_Iyr_dmoSB4IxGNbwafrXAgxBef7AqTyE2xHASOC5G2exiVJDlQOb=w650-h554-no?authuser=0)



Bruce rapping off with a heavy pack and a condor high above

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fl5K8DKvcb7GnR-MNLBp_6rxBgbxWG5jMQAT5iC2UP-PpeGIn2tarkFa6lGsTq8Jos_HsTIHJGWrF6mXR4klYTDV5Mhp-dkUjfUjczJa-Pac1TRo9WrTnxFaGkB76A2VPGsskA_L4TEEDsJPbRIXS9=w595-h625-no?authuser=0)


Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 23, 2014, 05:31:33 PM
I'm sure Bruce will do an official rebolt post but we rebolted Thundering Herd (4 bolts not 3 as indicated in the GB) - now go climb your salad!...replaced a bolt to the right of the top of Alligator Chimney - it's not shown on the p306 topo but can be found just to the right of the upper water streak where the topo has 764-766 with an arrow pointing up. We think it was placed to protect a follower on Toog's Gallery. It was a bad star dryvin in a hollow sounding small cobble. The first bolt on Toog's Gallery Direct Finish was the last replacement. We removed two old bolts at the summit and Bruce put some shiny new chains and screw links on the rappel. We picked up a ton of trash around these areas and on the way out.
It was a grrrrreat learning experience for me.
I am grateful for their time, patience and generous sharing of knowledge!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Uncle Stinky on January 24, 2014, 08:07:36 AM
Thanks for the report and the hard work. 
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: MUCCI on January 24, 2014, 09:44:33 AM
Quote
Tasty new hardware in the salad

Awesome.



Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: waldo on January 24, 2014, 02:07:02 PM

"I'm sure Bruce will do an official rebolt post but we rebolted Thundering Herd"

JC, how did you get through the poison oak forest at the bottom?  I've steered clear of that climb for decades for fear of toxic attack.
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 24, 2014, 02:55:07 PM
"I'm sure Bruce will do an official rebolt post but we rebolted Thundering Herd"

JC, how did you get through the poison oak forest at the bottom?  I've steered clear of that climb for decades for fear of toxic attack.

Go past where you think you should go up and there is an obvious rock ramp/trail to follow up and slightly right. Once at the top of the ramp start heading left and eventually weave back down (meander over/down) to the base being careful to avoid all the little sprigs at/around your feet. I'm super paranoid of oak so I just go slow and look at everything. There is mostly little stuff around the base but you can flake out the rope right next to the rock and carefully avoid that too. Mandatory walk off avoids rapping back down into the danger zone. Travel light and don't leave anything behind. Pretty sure I used a 1, 2 and 3 camalot to build an anchor + you can sit on the slab to belay p1. Trying to do it in one pitch would be a major drag :)
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: waldo on January 24, 2014, 09:14:24 PM
I checked  an early volume of my climbing diary and discovered that I climbed this baby on August 19th, 1979 with Bill (of Bill's Bad Bolts fame) and Ed Foley.  We went on to climb the W Face of Toog where I apparently found a good #4 stopper placement. Go figure!  I think I did Thundering in 1977, however, and forgot to write it down.  The poison oak wasn't around in those days!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 26, 2014, 08:52:52 AM
I checked  an early volume of my climbing diary and discovered that I climbed this baby on August 19th, 1979 with Bill (of Bill's Bad Bolts fame) and Ed Foley.  We went on to climb the W Face of Toog  where I apparently found a good #4 stopper placement. Go figure!  I think I did Thundering in 1977, however, and forgot to write it down.  The poison oak wasn't around in those days!

So was it 1979 or 1977? Or was it so good you went back for a repeat?

The W Face of Toog's - is that Toog's Trailside? Brad says that is the NW side.

Go back and do Thundering Herd again!

Can anyone identify what is "wrong" with the new bolt/hanger combo?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fKlk_R2RRzwZ3jn2kJOaoXroDzeWW_0MhlJySX0s4heJbu2T4rwCjtxpkN5u-qZhNlo1DUjvsWjDNlZR9dJWSauRKPjBnraL6nhxdj6YEFu2yzCQ5Flioxw8MV1jS36nRTsD-AU3luGE8RFntBvxO0=w689-h625-no?authuser=0)
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on January 26, 2014, 10:48:06 AM
SS bolt, plated hanger.  What do I win?
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 26, 2014, 02:04:59 PM
SS bolt, plated hanger.  What do I win?

You're close Bruce - try again :)
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: mynameismud on January 26, 2014, 07:51:06 PM
SS and Steel
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 26, 2014, 07:59:16 PM
SS and Steel

Yes - but which is which :)
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: waldo on January 26, 2014, 08:55:52 PM
1977 or 1979?   Not 1977.  When I began climbing at Pinnacles, I just checked things off in the Richards guide. I poked around and found that I did Thundering first on 8/7/78.  I ran out of room in Richards shortly after that and began a climbing journal.  1979 was my second trip up Thundering. 
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: mungeclimber on January 26, 2014, 10:07:28 PM
you went back?  oh my!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on January 26, 2014, 10:23:43 PM
You're close Bruce - try again :)

Dude, you want me to say 'SS bolt, plated steel hanger?'  We just use the term 'plated'
to mean 'plated steel.'

Ooops!  See below!
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: mungeclimber on January 26, 2014, 10:49:07 PM
Bruce, the Inox designation means it's plated?
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on January 27, 2014, 12:26:03 AM
Bruce, the Inox designation means it's plated?

Munge,

INOX usually means stainless steel, but that hanger looks to me like it is plated steel. Maybe it is the lighting. That must mean that it is a plated steel bolt and SS hanger.  That's a pretty shiny bolt for plated steel.
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2014, 07:18:26 AM
Munge,

INOX usually means stainless steel, but that hanger looks to me like it is plated steel. Maybe it is the lighting. That must mean that it is a plated steel bolt and SS hanger.  That's a pretty shiny bolt for plated steel.

You are correct now - plated bolt, stainless hanger :)
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Atomizer on January 27, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
You are correct now - plated bolt, stainless hanger :)

Isn't that illegal?
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: Aaron McDonald on January 27, 2014, 12:07:04 PM
Inox, from French acier inoxydable, is a synonym for stainless steel
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2014, 12:39:43 PM
Isn't that illegal?

Close enough Atom - Not to worry - I won't be placing any mixed metal. Fixe sent me some plated bolts by mistake. I am waiting for the replacement SS bolts so I can send the plated stuff back.

Just as an FYI - if anyone is ever unsure of which is which - use a magnet - stainless is non magnetic.
Title: Re: Rebolting with the Masters
Post by: F4? on January 27, 2014, 06:57:16 PM
Inox is stainless, you will not forget when you are buying 100 of them with your on $$$......