MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: CruxLuv on March 08, 2014, 07:18:18 PM
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Does Munge curse that much every time he climbs?? :o
Mucci was called every name in the book. And he wasn't even there.
That was just for openers.
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Only if the BLL runs out. Ladies, cover your ears
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FYJM!
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FYJM!
Alas, under different circumstances that coulda' been me. An occasional blooper does emit when I climb. But I would never, ever take Mucci's name in vain, so that much is different.
What'd he do to offend, sandbag a route?
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Likely too much slack belaying.
Mungie likes a tight belay....
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The Wolf needs an enema.
ugh, terrifying!
oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2
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The Wolf needs an enema.
ugh, terrifying!
oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2
Maybe someone is getting a little too spoiled by granite?
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yep
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sequencing issue.
Should have done Pinns Friday, Tollhouse Saturday.
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sequencing issue.
Should have done Pinns Friday, Tollhouse Saturday.
Sounds like you'll recover quickly. Don't make that mistake again though ;)
(If I recall correctly, Josh called The Wolf 5.7; I'm the one who added the "R" to the rating after I led it. Of course - rounding to the nearest 100 - I'm 100 years old now, and my memory may not be what I recall it once being).
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definitely R
The Escape route was tempting.
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2470/13025175983_29cf54c433_c.jpg)
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definitely R
The Escape route was tempting.
You musta been havin' a bad day. I thought that route was well protected and fun - especially the upper "tooth".
I onsighted it, dropped the rope and Aaron led it. I don't recall either of us having any trouble.
If you want some real runout on crap rock lead Sheepish. Buckwheat's Bender is a fright fest too.
I thought by comparison with those, The Wolf should get a star.
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I really don't recall Buckwheats being bad. it was one of the first leads I did on the West Side over 20 years ago.
Time to hang it up at Pinns, I guess.
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oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2
I "led" both pitches of Toog's Terror again with Bruce and Clint not long ago when we were rebolting. I say "led" because they are basically solos other than slung trees. I climbed between the tree and cliff both times I've led p2 and found it to be quite physical but not technically difficult. I used climbing shoes the first time and approach shoes the second time. I prefer rock over vegetable, although you get plenty of fiber no matter how you do this one (p1 and p2!). Maybe the 5.2 rating corresponds to climbing the tree alone. Kat said she bear-hugged the sucker and shimmied up. She couldn't quit talking about it afterwards - she evidently never climbed trees as a kid :)
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I really don't recall Buckwheats being bad. it was one of the first leads I did on the West Side over 20 years ago.
Time to hang it up at Pinns, I guess.
Dude - you musta been feelin' your oats that day - that route is loose/fractured knobs galore and groundfall potential most of the way with those super spacious bolts. Nothing pulled off - but I remember being able to wiggle a lot of holds. I floated that sucker. I remember Waldo telling me to watch out if I led it.
Sheepish is sketch most of the way - getting worse as you get higher and a definite groundfall if you blow it.
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I "led" both pitches of Toog's Terror again with Bruce and Clint not long ago when we were rebolting. I say "led" because they are basically solos other than slung trees. I climbed between the tree and cliff both times I've led p2 and found it to be quite physical but not technically difficult. I used climbing shoes the first time and approach shoes the second time. I prefer rock over vegetable, although you get plenty of fiber no matter how you do this one (p1 and p2!). Maybe the 5.2 rating corresponds to climbing the tree alone. Kat said she bear-hugged the sucker and shimmied up. She couldn't quit talking about it afterwards - she evidently never climbed trees as a kid :)
Just to the point about the rating - the 5.2 on p2 is dead vertical, even with a stem start. The only 5.2 that is dead vertical that I know of would be an aluminum ladder. A bark covered tree, not so much. I'm not saying it's not do-able, or that it is all that hard. There just is no way that it is 5.2. (and to clarify "physical" is something that is incorporated into ratings).
Brad, by any chance do you recall when we did that? I'm pretty we did that the same day you lead Powerslave.
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Brad, by any chance do you recall when we did that? I'm pretty we did that the same day you lead Powerslave.
My journal says I soloed Toogs Terror on January 25, 1992.
I did lead Powerslave, with you, on February 12, 1995 (but I only enter a climb in my journal when I first do it in good style, so we may have done Toog's Terror on this day too).
Wow, looking at my journal, I see that I free soloed Toog's Alligator and Toog's Tarbaby too that year (both on November 21).
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Toog? I sling the tree, though I much prefer the longer, better climbing to the left with the 5.9 finish. Not weird at all.
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We talked about slinging the tree but with the amount of sway it displayed and the lack of earth on her downside, decided it might be a liability rather than an asset.
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thx Brad!
Some day maybe you'll let me use your journal to recap some of my earlier days and jog some memories. :)
ION,
I seem to recall having lead the "5.9" (#745) using a 5.7 variant finish with the old lady one trip. But I note that the variant isn't listed in the book.
More's the shame because it makes the other moderates on the lower section of Toogs maintain a moderate rating to the summit without having to do the Terror finish.
I think that would be a nice addition to the corrections section. Thoughts?
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I was hanging it out there on the wolf. Glad you sent! Lars took a winger on the top section and tested my bolt.
It held.
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a guy walked up as we were doing the route "Mark" that had met you, apparently. He had a friend take a winger off the top bolt. Had to have been Lars.
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ION,
I seem to recall having lead the "5.9" (#745) using a 5.7 variant finish with the old lady one trip. But I note that the variant isn't listed in the book.
More's the shame because it makes the other moderates on the lower section of Toogs maintain a moderate rating to the summit without having to do the Terror finish.
I think that would be a nice addition to the corrections section. Thoughts?
WTF is ION? In other news?
Are you talking about the Gallery Direct Finish # 765?
Where is the variant?
Do you weenie out along that ledge after the 2nd bolt?
Left or Right?
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I was hanging it out there on the wolf. Glad you sent! Lars took a winger on the top section and tested my bolt.
It held.
a guy walked up as we were doing the route "Mark" that had met you, apparently. He had a friend take a winger off the top bolt. Had to have been Lars.
I don't get it. I didn't think the route was hard - just a committing move on what you're calling the upper part - what I call the Wolf's Tooth.
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WTF is ION? In other news?
Are you talking about the Gallery Direct Finish # 765?
Where is the variant?
Do you weenie out along that ledge after the 2nd bolt?
Left or Right?
maybe it's 765, no sure. working now.
yep, clip first two, then go right on the ramp to join the last moves of Toog's Terror (above the tree climbing).
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maybe it's 765, no sure. working now.
yep, clip first two, then go right on the ramp to join the last moves of Toog's Terror (above the tree climbing).
Makes sense - that avoids the crux shown on the topo - but honestly if you've made it that far without falling you can do the crux :)
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A 5.7 leader could do the '5.9' direct finish?
I've only done one of the lower toog routes, the 5.8.
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JC-
I don't get it. I didn't think the route was hard - just a committing move on what you're calling the upper part - what I call the Wolf's Tooth.
I did that FA solo, and on stance. It was a very heady FA, maybe one of my more proud routes I have bolted at the pinns.
Technically easy yes, but when I climbed it on the FA, there was nobody in the park, not even a ranger at the kiosk. The top out, as proven by lars, was the section where it became very serious for me on the redpoint.
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That 5.9 finish on toogs is good, and easy for the grade.
I thought all of those toog routes were "obscure" and a bit stiff.
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oh, btw, the one good solid knob that you grab right after clipping the last bolt, before stepping up onto the top moves, broke a little on it's left side.
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A 5.7 leader could do the '5.9' direct finish?
I've only done one of the lower toog routes, the 5.8.
There's only one 7 on Toog's - Toog's Alligator. I'm just sayin' that I thought the moves below the 5.9 crux shown on the topo were pretty stiff on lead. I remember almost having sewing machine leg - stemmed out and moving up through the first couple bolts. It's committing as hell.
I too have only done one lower route - Toog's Gallery (the 5.8) and that was before the rebolt.
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I did that FA solo, and on stance. It was a very heady FA, maybe one of my more proud routes I have bolted at the pinns.
Yer a wild man :0 - Virtual BIG fist bump!
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That is what makes climbing so cool.
You can have a life changing moment while on a 5.7 and nobody will every know why but you!
Hahahhaha
Only route I ever rope soloed in the pinns, I had enough after that route.