MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on March 09, 2014, 07:59:53 PM
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KC and her girl friends went climbing today. I had field trips both days this weekend. She was relating a story about some BAPs they were chatting with on the east side. No guide book. Never climbed at Pinns before. Asking the way to Disco. Said they were looking for 10's and 11's to lead. I personally would have directed them to the visitor's center - maybe they could buy a clue there. Or better yet - just walk away shaking my head.
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whoa, feel the hate coursing! Use the dark side! Embrace the anger! >:D
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Hate and Discontent
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Hate and Discontent
Disgust and Disdain is more like it.
The Pinns is my sacred place - disrespect it and you're gonna get dissed.
Maybe we should put signs at the base of each climb with the rating and tape on the holds.
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...Maybe we should put signs at the base of each climb with the rating and tape on the holds.
If I thought for even one minute that you are serious with this suggestion, I'd schedule a public session to have you drawn and quartered.
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next thing you know he's going to be posting up "DIE" all over the place.
lol
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DIE!
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My best climbing has always been without a guidebook.
Hell, more power to them for getting TRUE onsights.
Even you should appreciate that JC.
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BAM!
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It is puzzling to me too that some people just want to climb, with no care as to what it is they are on of what difficulty, length or complexity. This is puzzling because, to me, there's a ton of joy to be had in just the opposite approach. I love studying guidebooks, anticipating routes, and, especially, checking off as many different routes as I can.
Some people are different though. More power to them in finding fun their own way.
Hell, speaking of differences, here's one that is even more shocking: some people like Bud Lite Lime. God, some people even think that Bud Lite Lime is beer. Now that's a difference that is just about inconceivable. ;)
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My best climbing has always been without a guidebook.
Hell, more power to them for getting TRUE onsights.
Even you should appreciate that JC.
Geezus! Now it's shock and awe. I'm stunned!
If they were really after TRUE onsights they wouldn't have been asking anyone anything...
But hey - that's why they make chocolate and vanilla - makes me proud to be a grouchy old bastard!
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Some people are different though. More power to them in finding fun their own way.
Hell, speaking of differences, here's one that is even more shocking: some people like Bud Lite Lime. God, some people even think that Bud Lite Lime is beer. Now that's a difference that is just about inconceivable. ;)
Oh no, don't deflect to me. This thread is about JC's anger, hatred, and disdain for the plebian class of climber that asks for beta, and climbs harder than 5.10.
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Mucci seems to be an explorerer(an explorer who explores). Part mountain goat or wildebeest?
But when he drinks, is it Bud light lime?
I climbed Ritter that way. Had the mountain to myself after a storm.
I heard that Munge would rather only climb first ascents. Is this true?
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on granite...
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This thread is about JC's anger, hatred, and disdain for the plebian class of climber that asks for beta, and climbs harder than 5.10.
The way it was related to me - they had no idea where to go, where the climbs were or what they were getting into.
I like to think they ended up scared shitless on a 5.6, backed off and returned to the safety of the gym with their PAS's between their legs.
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I dabble in the BLL, but only to curb the scurvy.
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More power to them in finding fun their own way.
Now you guys know me and know I am not a hateful person. I am willing and even enjoy helping and sharing with others - but there are limits to what I think folks are "entitled" to. I'm sorry but I just can't imagine walking into an unknown area with no knowledge of anything - including the trail to the climb and just fumbling around - especially with enough supposed savvy to lead at that level. The way Kat relayed this to me was not some adventurous way to have fun - it was just mooching and pure ignorance - although they say that is bliss ;)
I just put my soap box in the recycling bin.
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I dabble in the BLL, but only to curb the scurvy.
LOL, new route name...
"Lime Beers Fight Scurvy"
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I like carrots!!!!
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I went to a new area once when it turned out I had an extra day and a belayer and asked for some 11's. Ended up on something pretty dam hard. Had a great day and did some cool routes. I am pretty sure some of them were 11's.
Actually did this three times. Only on one occasion I was with my sister who knew nothing about climbing and I just picked a route that looked cool and had a tree available to tie off the Gri-Gri. Some guy rapped down and said you know people get hurt on that. I was kinda busy at the moment trying to avoid the ground. He gave my sister a hard time about her belay technique and I grumbled and cursed something. He cursed back and left.
Good Times.
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Yup, I did that once in the meadows.
Some long time Sonora local picked me up @ the Meadows grill (not Brad).
He took me to East Cottage dome and we traded leads all day.
He wouldn't tell me the ratings...or just said "5.10 something, you can do it."
I was worked by the end of the day.
Little did I know how hard the routes were.
Don't try guessing the local. Brad or Mungie might know.
There is a route @ Burst rock with his name.....10d thin.
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And another time....
Mungie hooked me up with a partner for the day @ the Pinns. He was a quiet guy who drove this beatup van with no windows (it only went 35mph).
He took me all over the place...Marmot rocks, Upper Cust, Sisters and Discovery wall.
We did something like 15 routes.
Again, no guide book, just climbing routes.
He does frequent the forum. Some say he had retired.
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I had a climbing partner for awhile who rarely used a guidebook. She would pick out routes by whatever features looked good or fun. Whenever faced with having to read the guidebook her reading glasses would be conveniently left back in the car and the duty would become mine. Pretty funny stuff
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I like carrots!!!!
LOL, nice one!
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Do you think carrots would go well in BL?
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Do you think carrots would go well in BL?
Yes, very good combo.
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Waldo provide a cold Tecate Saturday at days end which went down well. Much appreciated , but no carrots.
I suspect that Waldo is beginning to like taking air as part of his climbing experience and think he might have "big" air in mind.
So I have to ask all of you what was your worst or longest fall climbing?
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So I have to ask all of you what was your worst or longest fall climbing?
I've taken only a few 25 footers and one 30. I've definitely held the longest lead fall of anyone on this forum though.
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Who, where and how long, if you don't mind sharing?
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Who, where and how long, if you don't mind sharing?
Forrest and I were on the South Seas in October 1989 (it's on El Cap, it was rated 5.10 A5 when we did it - one of it's first 10 ascents).
He disintegrated a dowel ladder and pulled some heads on the pitch above the dihedral just above where South Seas joins The Pacific Ocean Wall. From a move or two below the belay, he ended up hanging in space 20' below me. And he did it on my brand new rope. It was about a 110 foot fall.
This was also all air, and no-one was hurt, but it sure scared the sh#t out of both of us (the holy, holy sh#t to be more precise). When he fell I couldn't see him. Then he came into sight, still falling. Pieces ripped out so fast that it sounded like someone shooting off a .22 caliber rifle on semiautomatic as fast as they could. Near as we could tell, his wife was in El Cap Meadow watching just before he fell. She didn't see the actual event though. By the time he stopped I'd concluded that he was going to go all the way to the ground 18 pitches lower.
The next day I had to lead the dowel ladder above there (by then on our seventh day on the route). I was so scared that I had to tell myself that I was probably going to die and just accept that it was so before I could make myself start.
The only other time that I had to just accept that I was going to die and go on anyway was ten years later (1999) when I went back to Wet Denim Daydream with Dennis Erik's help. I came so close to backing off on that route; Dennis was totally patient and just gave me mild encouragement and waited. I've never heard his version of doing that route, but I've always been grateful to him for his understanding and patience.
After his fall on the South Seas, Forrest started to give up climbing. I'm not sure it was because of this fall, he also became a father and got interested in (I detest the very word) kayaking.
I have also probably held the second longest fall of anyone on here too (it's not me either, I swear; I don't make them fall).
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I held Geoff in a fall off Peruvian Flake, he was in the crux and ended up 5 ft off the ground, pulled one piece.
My longest fall are 25 ft on Sailing Shoes and off route on pitch 9 or so of the DNB .
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Great story, Brad. I was fifteen feet above my last bolt on a 10b route at Eagle Peak near Wrightwood. I lost my right foot just as I was clipping the last bolt -all air. Clink, recent evidence to the contrary, I don't plan to beat that one!
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Great story, Brad. I was fifteen feet above my last bolt on a 10b route at Eagle Peak near Wrightwood. I lost my right foot just as I was clipping the last bolt -all air. Clink, recent evidence to the contrary, I don't plan to beat that one!
Bob, how long did you end up going?
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The second longest fall I've held came when Tim, an eager, but not very experienced partner, tried to free the second half of the second pitch of the West Face of Sentinel Rock. He climbed up, around a corner and then out of sight. After a long pause I yelled up and asked what he was doing. "Free climbing" he yelled. Two seconds later the rope started snaking down, he started screaming and flew back around the corner. It was about a 50 footer.
That was it for him. He was banged up a little physically, but a lot mentally. He insisted on going straight down to the ground. I had to jug up to get all the gear and then retreat with it.
When I jugged up close to the piece that held his fall I was terrified: the piece was fine, but the 'biner that attached it to the rope wasn't. Somehow the sling through this 'biner had wrapped around the gate during the fall. The (Chouinard oval) carabiner had held that fall with it's gate open and was now bent so badly that, instead of overlapping by half an inch, the tip of the gate and the tip of the 'biner were a half inch apart! But it had held the fall. I gave that carabiner to Tim; I've always regretted that, but he took the fall and he earned it.
So, if any of you here recall me being nervous about "lightweight" carabiners, well now you've got some background as to why.
As for the West Face route, I had to go back to finish that a few years later with Dave Harden.
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Dowel ripper story never fails to astound me.
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Dowel ripper story never fails to astound me.
You know that by this coming September, you and I will have been climbing together for 22 years.
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Brad, how did you get by the blown dowel ladder the next day?
Great story.
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Brad, how did you get by the blown dowel ladder the next day?
Great story.
We went past it that same day.
We had a small, emergency bolt kit with us. I volunteered to go up to work on the pitch after he fell, but Forrest said it was his pitch. He went up and re-placed the heads that had blown and then placed Z-mac rivets into the existing dowel holes (soft aluminum is pretty easy to drill through). I think maybe he placed one quarter inch bolt with a hanger too. It took him three more hours to get to the belay.
I wonder what is there now?
That experience has swayed my views about rivets and other, lesser "filling" for drilled holes. I think that if one is going to break out the drill, then one should fill the hole with something worthwhile.
I note that the (older) Supertopo big walls book I have shows that the dowel pitch that I then had to lead is/was still dowels. I wonder if that is the case still too?
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I held Geoff in a fall off Peruvian Flake, he was in the crux and ended up 5 ft off the ground, pulled one piece.
My longest fall are 25 ft on Sailing Shoes and off route on pitch 9 or so of the DNB .
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So Jon, how far did Geoff fall altogether, and how many feet was your DNB plunge?
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three long falls that come to mind
One on the Salathe when trying to get up into the Alcove late at night. I was trying to go fast and was doing a fair bit of back cleaning. Had a small wire pull then ripped a couple of pieces. Ron was 6 or so pitches down below with his partner watching us and got to watch my head lamp lose some altitude. My partner had his daisy’s fixed above his head and was head down in the haul bag rooting around for gummy bears when all the sudden he got yanked 8 feet up in the air to the point where his daisy’s are keeping him from going any higher. Still upside down but wondering what the sam hill just happened. That was about 40 feet or so.
I took a fairly long fall when leading Premeditated. I was about 15 feet, perhaps more, above my last piece and with rope stretch and the fact that most people that climb with me know I like a loose belay. I went a fair distance.
Endured a full length daisy fall on a bi-cammed green alien (it held) when I forget to unclip my daisy from my bottom piece and the one I was climbing onto popped. Felt that jar all the way up my spine. Definitely a Darwin moment.
Popped out of an expanding flake on 10 days after, then ripped a couple of rivets. Went down below my partner, kinda smacked my head on the way by and ended up side down in my harness. That had to be at least 40.
A couple of Darwin moments
As a kid took a huge whipper out of a tree trying to tight rope walk across a branch from one tree to another. Probably about 20 to 25 feet to the ground. Woke up kind of sore.
As a wee tike there was the time when I took my mom’s nice new umbrella and jumped off the roof of the house. Hey, it worked for Mary Poppins.
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Umbrella jumping! sweet! You have to really believe to make that happen!
You ripped out of the wall, those rivets? Josh, bomber, eh?
Brad, to your point about drill and fill with good stuff, having seen how fast a shorty can go in, I'm leaning toward shorty bolts for big wall FAs, interspersed with good belays. Josh has me convinced. Still don't like the quarter inchers for crag routes.
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You know that by this coming September, you and I will have been climbing together for 22 years.
and it's still a good story. :)
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Eric Brand (ten days FAist) was known to use zmacs to protect, and in bolt ladders as the only type he would use. Those can handle low angle falls like ammons 500 feet of slab falls on WOS on 30+ year old zmacs.
The story changes, I believe in a "pull out fall" where it is very steep and the zmacs are rated very low for pullout strength.
We use 5/16ths x 3/4 Stainless Steel carriage bolts for rivets, buzzed down in various ways to deal with the change in hole diameter from dull bits. You pick the one best suited for how many holes you have on your bit. New bit, less threads, old bit, more threads.
Interspersed with 1/4 x 1.25" button heads with Stainless Steel shop made hangers, stamped with all kinds of trademarks.
Brad- You would feel good above one of our rivets, guaranteed >:D
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Brad- You would feel good above one of our rivets, guaranteed >:D
Oddly enough Mucci, I think you're right, I would trust your sh#t.
Besides, anything's better than a 1/4' diameter piece of aluminum dowel!
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I have 2x moments at least. Both were @ the Pinnacles.
20-30ft maybe?
The 1st one I remember Rob yelling, "AIM for the BUSHES, AIM for the BUSHES"...yup landed in the bushed to soften my fall.
The only casualty was shredding my sacred Sport Hill pants. Which was okay since the 90's were almost over.
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When we did South Seas I remember there being a long dowel ladder off The Black Tower that was constructed with tent stakes. David Allfrey led way out on this thing. Maybe 10-15 tent stakes up he came to a sheered off stake with a 1/4" bolt next to it. Pretty scary... Fricking time bombs up there. I have a feeling like the pitch you speak of is below this ladder. But I don;t remember a dowel or bolt ladder right around where SS and PO meet. Maybe once you enter the Aluetian Chain?
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I have 2x moments at least. Both were @ the Pinnacles.
20-30ft maybe?
The 1st one I remember Rob yelling, "AIM for the BUSHES, AIM for the BUSHES"...yup landed in the bushed to soften my fall.
The only casualty was shredding my sacred Sport Hill pants. Which was okay since the 90's were almost over.
That was one of yours.
I witnessed the second one, which was one hell of a fall. I saw you from the ground, tumbling and cartwheeling for 2/3 the length of Tato Pani's second pitch. And then Jeff seemingly tackled you right out of the air, onto the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Good ending - you coulda' gone a lot farther.
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Desecration Palpitation!
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And we wonder why poor innocent bad rock isn't a regular around here.
Sorry sir (or ma'm) for having hijacked what started as a nice thread.
So bad rock gets an apology and my thread gets jacked and I get left behind like I don't even exist. My hate now has a new outlet. I request the administrator retitle this thread and remove my starting post from it. DIE! or choke on a carrot!
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JC- glad you started this thread. I enjoy where it ended up!
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JC- glad you started this thread. I enjoy where it ended up!
It itched - so I scratched it...albeit publicly ;)
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Ha, indeed. Careful though as we all started somewhere. Mine (on real rock) involved a homemade harness, hiking boots and a construction hat. Everything I learned started in basic and advanced rockcraft.
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and a construction hat.
great visual
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John, own it. Claim that you started the thread knowing and intending it would go here. That way we'll all think you're a genius.
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My virgin eyes. What have I read?
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And it did happen because I have pictures and no way am I posting
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Oh, come on. We will be nice!
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You first
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...I have a feeling like the pitch you speak of is below this ladder. But I don;t remember a dowel or bolt ladder right around where SS and PO meet. Maybe once you enter the Aluetian Chain?
Per Don Reid's big walls book, it was pitch 17; thin to one (or more, it's been a while) quarter inch bolts, to copperheads to dowels. He didn't strip the whole pitch, just enough to fall from very close to the end of the pitch to 20 feet below me. An old quarter inch bolt held the fall.
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Funny, in my accounting I must have been thinking only about falls which were stopped by the rope. I completely, totally forgot my 1999 grounder and the resultant week in the hospital (I guess forgetting about it is a good sign?).
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'Brad, to your point about drill and fill with good stuff, having seen how fast a shorty can go in, I'm leaning toward shorty bolts for big wall FAs, interspersed with good belays. Josh has me convinced. Still don't like the quarter inchers for crag routes." Munge
Munge, I've got a box of 1" x 1/4" Stars if you want them. They're the bad bolts from Bill's Bad. I mentioned to Brad that I used these babies (circa 1986) as the Pinns equivalent of dowels. I'd place three or four before placing a longer Star. It worked, though I took a flight when I stood on one of the last ones.
Mary Poppins rules!
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Damn, I read all this sh#t and I wonder why the hell I still climb. I guess though that one hospital visit in 31 years of climbing isn't all that bad.
Here's Dave Harden's version of my March 18, 1999 crash and burn:
"A nice sunny day in Yosemite with Brad and Ron started with a couple of obscure, semi-worthless routes at Sunnyside Bench just to do something new. Then Brad took off on a lead of Sultans of Sling. About thirty feet up, his feet cut loose and he popped off. I was belaying, and it looked and felt like a normal leader fall. A split second later everything changed. His protection slowed his descent but then ripped out, and the next two pieces fractured a chunk of granite; he cratered right in front of me. Then fifty or a hundred pounds of rock landed on him.
Needless to say, Ron and I were freaking out. Brad was screaming bloody murder, and we were trying to get him to hold still, suspecting spinal cord damage while pulling rocks off of him. Fortunately his head and neck were uninjured. After we quickly stabilized him and did a primary survey, Ron blasted down to the car to get help started. Before too long, Brad was in the clinic getting pumped full of morphine and having head-to-toe x-rays to determine the extent of his injuries. A monster of a hematoma on his thigh looked the worst, but then an x-ray revealed a separated pelvis. Miraculously, nothing was broken. The pain of widespread abrasions, contusions, and ripped muscles was moderated by the drugs. That night he was in a hospital in Modesto. Bad day."
A few other points:
- The first two pieces that "ripped out" were the two smallest RPs (brass nuts) on my rack. There were very, very limited pro possibilities in that spot.
- The next two pieces down are the ones that blew out chunks of rock. In my defense, these were well placed, medium sized gear. Although I saw a slight fracture nearby, there were no other protection possibilities at all here. I commented to Ron and Dave about the fracture, but it was, after all, Yosemite granite, and the fracture was slight. I went on.
- Both Dave and Ron are Wilderness First Aid Responders (at the time Ron was a YOSAR volunteer). Twenty seconds after I hit, an emergency room nurse from Florida, in Yosemite on vacation, walked up to the scene. She had her cell phone in hand and called 911. I was then 1/4 mile from the Yosemite medical clinic.
- Vicki has never forgotten Dave's words when he telephoned her (after I was already into the clinic): "Hi Vicki, this is Dave. He's going to be alright, but..."
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Damn, I read all this sh#t and I wonder why the hell I still climb. I guess though that one hospital visit in 31 years of climbing isn't all that bad.
Here's Dave Harden's version of my March 18, 1999 crash and burn:
"A nice sunny day in Yosemite with Brad and Ron started with a couple of obscure, semi-worthless routes at Sunnyside Bench just to do something new. Then Brad took off on a lead of Sultans of Sling. About thirty feet up, his feet cut loose and he popped off. I was belaying, and it looked and felt like a normal leader fall. A split second later everything changed. His protection slowed his descent but then ripped out, and the next two pieces fractured a chunk of granite; he cratered right in front of me. Then fifty or a hundred pounds of rock landed on him.
Needless to say, Ron and I were freaking out. Brad was screaming bloody murder, and we were trying to get him to hold still, suspecting spinal cord damage while pulling rocks off of him. Fortunately his head and neck were uninjured. After we quickly stabilized him and did a primary survey, Ron blasted down to the car to get help started. Before too long, Brad was in the clinic getting pumped full of morphine and having head-to-toe x-rays to determine the extent of his injuries. A monster of a hematoma on his thigh looked the worst, but then an x-ray revealed a separated pelvis. Miraculously, nothing was broken. The pain of widespread abrasions, contusions, and ripped muscles was moderated by the drugs. That night he was in a hospital in Modesto. Bad day."
A few other points:
- The first two pieces that "ripped out" were the two smallest RPs (brass nuts) on my rack. There were very, very limited pro possibilities in that spot.
- The next two pieces down are the ones that blew out chunks of rock. In my defense, these were well placed, medium sized gear. Although I saw a slight fracture nearby, there were no other protection possibilities at all here. I commented to Ron and Dave about the fracture, but it was, after all, Yosemite granite, and the fracture was slight. I went on.
- Both Dave and Ron are Wilderness First Aid Responders (at the time Ron was a YOSAR volunteer). Twenty seconds after I hit, an emergency room nurse from Florida, in Yosemite on vacation, walked up to the scene. She had her cell phone in hand and called 911. I was then 1/4 mile from the Yosemite medical clinic.
- Vicki has never forgotten Dave's words when he telephoned her (after I was already into the clinic): "Hi Vicki, this is Dave. He's going to be alright, but..."
Tough read but a good one
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Accepted for good and valuable consideration Waldo. I'll take delivery Sunday at Ridge Rock.:)
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Sheesh, I never heard that one?
I think Brad has us beat based on the rock ripping and landing on him!
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I think Brad has us beat based on the rock ripping and landing on him!
I'd go for tied with you. Seeing you cartwheeling down that face was full on, full on scary. I couldn't believe you were as OK as you were afterward. What a relief.
I still remember Stacy's reaction that day to me screaming at her and Rob to come over NOW (she told me this later). Her first thought was along the lines of "WTF is his problem." Next I screamed: "and bring the first aid kit." Then she understood.
About four years after my fall I went back to Sunnyside Bench with Skelton. He showed me the biggest piece of rock that had landed on me. It was pretty sobering.
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Yuck! I'm curious, did you end up climbing the route? The route that bit me I've never been back up.
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Yuck! I'm curious, did you end up climbing the route? The route that bit me I've never been back up.
Nope, I never went back on Sultans of Sling. I'm not even sure it's protectable now.
What happened to you Squiddo and on what route?
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Puss in Boots in Jtree back in the early 90's. Sport route bolt at my feet and I went 25 feet. Stoned partner (drugs are bad mmmmmkay) and I hit the lower angle slab and spun my ankle on the way down.
Nope never been back and I'm fine with that:-)
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I'd go for tied with you. Seeing you cartwheeling down that face was full on, full on scary. I couldn't believe you were as OK as you were afterward. What a relief.
I still remember Stacy's reaction that day to me screaming at her and Rob to come over NOW (she told me this later). Her first thought was along the lines of "WTF is his problem." Next I screamed: "and bring the first aid kit." Then she understood.
About four years after my fall I went back to Sunnyside Bench with Skelton. He showed me the biggest piece of rock that had landed on me. It was pretty sobering.
That was with Staci there? I thought she was there for Matt's header fall?
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I think for Both.
I would say Matt get a nod for Spatter Matt. Almost up on the ledge on crumbly rock dyno's for a knob that rips the he is off backwards. He hits his foot and does a header right into the rock. He then spins around and a geyser of blood sprays out in a arch. I was not belaying but I was a witness. He walked out. Sal carries his pack and kept him off the deck by about 3 feet.
A Month later the was still red on the nearby plants a bit on the rock.
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That was with Staci there? I thought she was there for Matt's header fall?
She was there for both. She had just finished her Wilderness First Aid Responder class. She used it on Matt and then on Eric, both at The Yaks, two weeks and ten feet apart.
After she'd dressed Eric's lacerations, and as we were getting ready to walk out, I quietly said to Staci: "Stace, maybe we shouldn't come out to the Yaks with you any more."
She looked at me and smiled. Then she said: "Maybe you shouldn't come out to the Yaks without me."
I've never forgotten that comment.
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Puss in Boots in Jtree back in the early 90's. Sport route bolt at my feet and I went 25 feet. Stoned partner (drugs are bad mmmmmkay) and I hit the lower angle slab and spun my ankle on the way down.
Nope never been back and I'm fine with that:-)
How bad was the ankle?
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How bad was the ankle?
Very bad but thanks fully not an open fracture. Until surgery they is....2 screws later good as new
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Very bad but thanks fully not an open fracture. Until surgery they is....2 screws later good as new
Surgery is pretty bad. Funny thing, I've had some screws that left me feeling as good as new too.
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Surgery is pretty bad. Funny thing, I've had some screws that left me feeling as good as new too.
Yep healed better than the torn ligaments in the other ankle:/)
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Yep healed better than the torn ligaments in the other ankle:/)
Yeah, I've never had surgery though.
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come on Squiddo, you gotta be quicker than that.
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Pause
While we try to regain composure.
Nope, save yourselves.
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So Jon, how far did Geoff fall altogether, and how many feet was your DNB plunge?
Geoff fell 35ft i think. On the DNB I almost regained the correct route but fell 25ft or so slapping a ledge barely with my ankle as the belay stopped me. One foot more of slack could have been big trouble. The correct way was a pleasant 5.7 on ugly looking rock I had passed by.
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Guys, those are some scary stories.
Glad we climbed Sultans before it was ruined. :o
Also has Brad always looked like he climbed out from under a pile of rocks? Or just since the accident?
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I suppose you guys heard about Go-Go Joe's fall. I'll be visiting him for some adult beverages today to see how he is doing.
And Brad Pitch 17... yup that's the spot on South Seas.
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I suppose you guys heard about Go-Go Joe's fall. I'll be visiting him for some adult beverages today to see how he is doing.
And Brad Pitch 17... yup that's the spot on South Seas.
Yeah I heard about it. Send my get well and I'll hit him up on his cell.
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Had not heard. Hope all is well and tell him hope he gets well soon.
here is to much good mojo going his way.
and
Here's to sweat in his eye
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I guess it happened a 4-6 weeks ago. I'm sure he's alright as not too many things broke. But as we would all be if we landed on the ground, he's shaken.
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dang, I had no idea not that knowing would have helped. Bring him a beverage of choice for us. How high was he?
speedy recovery Joe! Get Well Soon!
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Now you guys know me and know I am not a hateful person. I am willing and even enjoy helping and sharing with others - but there are limits to what I think folks are "entitled" to. I'm sorry but I just can't imagine walking into an unknown area with no knowledge of anything - including the trail to the climb and just fumbling around - especially with enough supposed savvy to lead at that level. The way Kat relayed this to me was not some adventurous way to have fun - it was just mooching and pure ignorance - although they say that is bliss ;)
I just put my soap box in the recycling bin.
John hates the gym...
John hates gumbys...
John hates top roping..
John hates ...
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It is puzzling to me too that some people just want to climb, with no care as to what it is they are on of what difficulty, length or complexity.
Brad I really appreciate all of your hard dedicated work to the guide books you have created but what you are saying is exactly the stuff that first assents are made of. I really enjoy going to areas that no guide book exists or that has very little beta. This forces me to really study the climb and determine if it is within my ability and if it is not how to escape. This is high adventure at it's best. Several areas in the Sierra have really old and outdated guide books and I love it!
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Wow! I am really off topic now. This thread completely changed as I was reading and responding. Not sure anything I just posted is relevant now.
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Wow! I am really off topic now. This thread completely changed as I was reading and responding. Not sure anything I just posted is relevant now.
It doesn't matter dude - anything goes - they took what I said out of context and made something completely different from it. Like I don't understand what adventure is - Puh-lease!
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John hates the gym...
John hates gumbys...
John hates top roping..
John hates ...
At least now people won't remember me as just another "nice" guy :)
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/76/Darth_Vader.jpg)
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/76/Darth_Vader.jpg)
YOU ARE PART OF THE REBEL ALLIANCE! Take him away!
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/76/Darth_Vader.jpg)
HEY! My pajama's!!!
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John hates removing his helmet to shower. He uses an orange towelete to take sponge baths before climbing . He hates massages and always declines when I offer one.
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John hates the gym...
John hates gumbys...
John hates top roping..
John hates ...
Hate seems like such a strong word.
Strong is good right?
Just for the record I don't hate Gumbys.
I do however get annoyed with ignorance.
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John hates removing his helmet to shower. He uses an orange towelete to take sponge baths before climbing . He hates massages and always declines when I offer one.
whoever this guy is...I like him ;)
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Brad I really appreciate all of your hard dedicated work to the guide books you have created but what you are saying is exactly the stuff that first assents are made of. I really enjoy going to areas that no guide book exists or that has very little beta. This forces me to really study the climb and determine if it is within my ability and if it is not how to escape. This is high adventure at it's best. Several areas in the Sierra have really old and outdated guide books and I love it!
Study the climb? This is not homework, it is climbing.
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Brad I really appreciate all of your hard dedicated work to the guide books you have created but what you are saying is exactly the stuff that first assents are made of. I really enjoy going to areas that no guide book exists or that has very little beta. This forces me to really study the climb and determine if it is within my ability and if it is not how to escape. This is high adventure at it's best. Several areas in the Sierra have really old and outdated guide books and I love it!
Aaron, we don't disagree with each other at all about first ascents.
I love the adventure of FAs too (Lord knows I've done a few of them). For me the fun of an FA starts with finding and doing the route. And the new route then joins the named and rated climbs in my book (which I enjoy doing too). After that it joins my lists (more fun). I enjoy the whole process.
But the "Darwinian" climbers John was posting about weren't there to do FAs (it seems), but were there just to climb. That's where my fun is different from the fun they were looking for.
I have no trouble at all with their approach, but I wouldn't enjoy starting out at a new climbing area that way (more than once I've bought a whole guidebook for a single day of climbing at a place, knowing that I'd only be there that one day).
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gumby = ignorance
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I really enjoy going to areas that no guide book exists or that has very little beta. This forces me to really study the climb and determine if it is within my ability and if it is not how to escape.
Study the climb? This is not homework, it is climbing.
So true Mud and btw a guidebook is not beta.
I also don't think you can truly tell how hard a climb is until you get on it. Looking from the ground is not a clear indication. I have looked at climbs from the ground and thought - wow - that looks fun and not that hard...then got up there and said - holy shit - this is way harder than it looked or vice versa.
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gumby = ignorance
I prefer: Ignorance = Bliss!
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syllogism?
gumby = ignorance
ignorance = bliss
therefore, bliss = gumby
and by principle of identity we can say that being a gumby is bliss!
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So true Mud and btw a guidebook is not beta.
I also don't think you can truly tell how hard a climb is until you get on it. Looking from the ground is not a clear indication. I have looked at climbs from the ground and thought - wow - that looks fun and not that hard...then got up there and said - holy shit - this is way harder than it looked or vice versa.
P.S. I hate the term beta, I hate chalk and I hate self-drives, lags in sleeves and split shafts :)
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gumby = ignorance
We all start there....those that don't are fooling themselves. My first Pinns trip was looking for routes to top rope, no book and no gear to build an anchor much to speak of. Passion in the heart grows.
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We all start there....those that don't are fooling themselves.
No one is born Betaboy.
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We all start there....those that don't are fooling themselves. My first Pinns trip was looking for routes to top rope, no book and no gear to build an anchor much to speak of. Passion in the heart grows.
Exactly.
I'm amazed I never got really hurt climbing. But at core, I'm a fairly conservative climber.
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Bliss is just nice......Leading some of that stuff @ Castle while learning to lead....ugh.
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Hate seems like such a strong word.
Strong is good right?
Just for the record I don't hate Gumbys.
I do however get annoyed with ignorance.
How many posts do you need on Mud n Crud to not be a Gumbie anymore?
You got the spelling wrong dude!
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In Joe's case ignorance may have been his downfall. But we are all capable of learning and changing. This is important when we fail.
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Officially the most off topic thread ever.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3216/13004298885_124894f931_c.jpg)
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/8733166397_810df70a69_c.jpg)
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Off topic posters are turkeys?
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How many posts do you need on Mud n Crud to not be a Gumbie anymore?
You got the spelling wrong dude!
I'm sticking with Gumby as in Gumby and Pokey - a youngster like you might have to look it up :)
Now as far as pluralizing I do believe you're right - that a y preceded by a consonant would dictate changing to ies rather than ys. If we start nitpicking rules for spelling and grammar, Brad is going to get involved and it's just going to get ugly! I'll cover by saying I was following Aaron's post. He obviously can't spell either - e.g. assent? Really?
I think Mungie is just posting silliness to show how off topic this thing is - hey - I have that rope!
P.S. I hate the term send...
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How many onsights did you send while still a gumbie?
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How many onsights did you send while still a gumbie?
Bite me Pokey.
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How many onsights did you send while still a gumbie?
Bad question Jon, it lacks foundation. Try it this way:
- John, have you ever been a climbing Gumby?
- And, are you still a Gumby?
- Can you estimate how long will you still be a Gumby (or, depending on his answer) About when did you graduate from Gumbyhood?
- While you were (or) While you have been a Gumby, how many insights did you send (or) have you sent?
His answer might be less snarky if you ask in a better thought out manner (of course it might be just as snarky too).
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Somebody pull and patch, please.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3216/13004298885_124894f931_c.jpg)
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Somebody pull and patch, please.
Yep, waste of perfectly good SS hardware
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Note the stain under the hanger. I suspect that an old bolt had pre-existed the new SS. Not my cup of tea, but not my area either.
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where is it?
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Tollhouse
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where is it?
i think it is tollhouse traverse - you know - the one that has been done in a tutu and cross-x skis and inline skates - surprised someone hasn't done it with clown shoes(they probably have)...
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i think it is tollhouse traverse - you know - the one that has been done in a tutu and cross-x skis and inline skates - surprised someone hasn't done it with clown shoes(they probably have)...
yep gptta be the one. Fun place but overall it makes me long for higher up granite.....Courtright is right up the hill!
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His answer might be less snarky if you ask in a better thought out manner
Hate to burst your bubble, but you ramble on and on.
The beauty of the the question was its poignancy hidden in its simplicity.
I can teach you. 8)
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Hate to burst your bubble, but you ramble on and on.
The beauty of the the question was its poignancy hidden in its simplicity.
I can teach you. 8)
Who is this clink? I gotta me you lol
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Hmm, that green cam looks a bit over-cammed.
I'd have clipped the bolt and moved on.
Yes, squiddo just babbles and babbles. Prolly hit the sauce early today.
2 kids will do it to you.
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Try six kids. Extra sauce.
As Geoff Norris say's " Having kids is overrated. "
I tell my daughters " I got gyped, my kids suck "
then we all laugh.
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Doesn't anybody work around here? ;D
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Hey computer boy, I do office work once in a while and indulge when I do.
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One more hour ofwork then two weeks off!
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figured I would nominate myself for the darwin award of the day. Went down on the super six today. Have done this decent dozens of times. Not sure exactly what went went wrong. Perhaps it was a mixture, mind to busy, not balanced on the bike, air pressure a bit high, definitely not focused. She is at least predictable, let loose fairly smoothly and drifted a bit before I low sided and slid off the road. A bit of road rash, bike is fine, dislocated second knuckle on the right index finger but it popped back in without much effort.
bought a bag of ice for the drive home. Now I just have to go scrub down the road rash and drink a beer. Might slow down the climbing for the next couple of weeks. Definitely no cracks.
EDIT:
Getting into the shower is the worst part. The scrub brush is not to bad. Cleaned up fairly well. Road rash on top of PO rash, not quite like gin and tonic.
beer in hand. time to relax.
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Dude, you said come to St John's for a Burger and a beer..or two.
You had the perfect plan....
heal up buckaroo!
Go diving, it's safer.
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don't worry the bike is ok.
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Bike is fine, throat still works for consuming beer.
What more can you ask for?
Keep medicated and heal up soon. :thumbup:
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Now I just have to go scrub down the road rash and drink a beer.
Dude! Sorry to hear that. I hate f-ing road rash! Those first couple days are brutal.
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From what I saw happening on Tib's X on my way out Friday we could have some award recipients soon.