MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on May 11, 2014, 09:01:14 AM

Title: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 11, 2014, 09:01:14 AM
Kat and I will be in attendance Friday and Saturday - maybe a half day Sunday.
Probably gonna be toasty but we know how to chase shade.
Anybody else comin'?

NWS right now says:

Friday Sunny, with a high near 85.
Friday Night Mostly clear, with a low around 52.
Saturday Sunny, with a high near 75
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: waldo on May 11, 2014, 05:33:52 PM
You'll be camping?
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 11, 2014, 06:16:42 PM
You'll be camping?

yep - Friday and Saturday nights.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: waldo on May 12, 2014, 05:10:53 AM
Phyllis is having cataract surgery tomorrow.  If she's doing well, I may join you on Saturday.  I'll communicate again on Thursday or Friday.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 13, 2014, 01:14:34 PM
Dina and I will be heading down on Friday morning / afternoon.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mynameismud on May 13, 2014, 02:16:43 PM
I am on the bench.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 14, 2014, 12:52:07 PM
I'm going to lobby the AAC to make the Pinns weekend in December.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: Brad Young on May 14, 2014, 12:57:28 PM
I'm going to lobby the AAC to make the Pinns weekend in December.

Yeah. Tell them I said "DUH!"
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 14, 2014, 01:34:04 PM
Yeah. Tell them I said "DUH!"

I resemble that remark!

Friday Sunny, with a high near 84. West northwest wind around 9 mph.
Friday Night Mostly clear, with a low around 51.
Saturday Sunny, with a high near 73.
Saturday Night Clear, with a low around 46.
Sunday Sunny, with a high near 67.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 14, 2014, 02:41:29 PM
Yeah. Tell them I said "DUH!"

Duhn, and Done!
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 15, 2014, 11:05:33 AM
Hey Munge,

If it was in December would you actually come to the event?
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 15, 2014, 01:57:38 PM
Yup, unless of course like this year the Sierra is dry as a bone in December.

 ;D
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 19, 2014, 03:16:08 PM
Dismemberment Gorge 5.4R – thrutching up into the chimney – not like any 5.4 I’ve ever been on – crux felt like hard 5.7 and scary as hell!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fZOlbtwT6O0w5Jpco67jDDKNrI2jHWGaNCuQU47Y2r477dH5mUs9uqHzidYsR8K7ArmNd-XG-gV3YPIx1x4wf8QLZKGND7LTm5cknkyOxGsHxO-wjNYAqya-3UAAm99oxLOHaJY72np_FbuRWTTDm6=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Portent Right Finish – 5.6* - worthy of more than one star imo :) and well worth doing ;)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e0aH6g4o3OQYCrJVWVfqgZDJ0GVIoGwCaUtGZkCJrF9gB8rRrmso8mjFcnzQO_uiZWCkic3rPbtAaR6d_bBsZ55IRcbx4TjXAfGVN1z6Wv47_xlPbuOt0dHXVx-jSIACE19O_1il9Bj3rWNDsik1m7=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Birdbrain Pinnacle 5.1 - I think this may be an instant classic!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fLwwc0CP7VolKWe9JIwMeoD5BNLbh7PkY0Pfun2h3scEsdku5KYSUckUY_GsmDjt8ej_o8Z6-d18TdL7R0Pg-uvxHWkWBMXXgYa7_3m7-ZFOzQeZG0queTbnqGo9Ezz4o8thVlXu94XIEnrzJokZXn=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



You’d have to be a Birdbrain to climb this! – especially without a helmet ;)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fNbCgurnVr_YrUKpAbH0iSh9A4DgiytxfnQj7S7xOf3-xjS5K8_vy9A0JJIYYkuzBumHMXX9wHs8h8FRYVQ_KaS1cKIY21r7HGJaOwNXkCs48YpqOilrhac8M7OmOHp3HptGc0AxKR-bYVfgokR1vj=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Deep into Nailbox Crack 5.8* – way more of an ordeal than Ordeal for me. I think the face line curves out left from where I am but I was too scared to leave the crack - plus it made no sense to me to do that since there is no bolt out there. I thought I was going to fall repeatedly!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fxDs58eB-lnempi7hFwWZSWvOq_qX4cAKEaS4SSOBYEsYf3D0IAd1ctrxUAMD0__TgdNuMXSiEZJRul2MW5gesnEhp5PdDBz1x6TfOTfCSs_54N7sc6s4rgMnUAguADrRiXF58c90x4cB1wY4pnF2-=w613-h625-no?authuser=0)
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mynameismud on May 19, 2014, 03:31:04 PM
nice list and pics.  Nailbox is the scene of more than on rescue.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 19, 2014, 06:56:21 PM
nice list and pics.  Nailbox is the scene of more than on rescue.

thanks Mud - and yes, knowing that was making me extra nervous while leading it - especially with the fairly large gaps between pro! I need to go do it again and practice keeping my cool ;)
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mynameismud on May 19, 2014, 07:22:31 PM
practice keeping my cool

takes all the fun out of it
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: clink on May 19, 2014, 07:37:02 PM
Cual JC and KC!
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: Atomizer on May 19, 2014, 09:22:41 PM
I thought I was going to fall repeatedly!

That's normal.
It's when you feel like you are going to die that you should take notice.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 20, 2014, 06:26:13 PM
Cool pics. It is easier stepping left, then back to the anchor, yes?
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 20, 2014, 06:34:00 PM
Cool pics. It is easier stepping left, then back to the anchor, yes?

thanks Munge. I have to go climb it again and will look harder this time for the "face" line since I evidently did a "direct" version up the corner. Have you climbed Birdbrain? I need a consensus on the rating. No one has commented :(
This might be one of the best climbs at Pinnacles and only available during extended droughts - making it totally unique!
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: oldtopangalizard on May 21, 2014, 01:26:28 PM
I've witnessed trouble on Nailbox. After climbing on Discovery, we came around the corner to Nailbox with a guy hanging from the rope about 40' up with a compound leg fracture. Somewhere between 88-92. Big John from San Jose he said. He only fell 15 to 20 feet but snapped it on a ledge or protrusion. Partner, Little John, was freaked out so I tied in and lowered him into the poison oak. Guy was a tough bugger, never whimpered or moaned. Rangers were there in about 15 minutes. Somewhere, I have shots of that on slides, I'll see if I can dig them up and try to get it on here.  
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: oldtopangalizard on May 21, 2014, 01:28:29 PM
It's been a long time, isn't there a bolt up a bit and left of JC in that photo?
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: Uncle Stinky on May 21, 2014, 01:30:28 PM
I think mailbox may have been first climb there, not sure a long time ago around  81 or 82 I think.   
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 21, 2014, 06:21:17 PM
It's been a long time, isn't there a bolt up a bit and left of JC in that photo?

No bolts on this route - but it would make sense to have one out there based on the topo path - which takes you out and away from the crack and any pro. Nothing in either of my guides about a bolt - just a statement/warning in Brad's that it has been the scene of accidents. 
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 21, 2014, 06:28:25 PM
JC, have not done Birdbrain. Looks cool.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 21, 2014, 08:14:33 PM
JC, have not done Birdbrain. Looks cool.

CLAIMED! FA for me :)
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 21, 2014, 09:43:41 PM
 :o
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mynameismud on May 22, 2014, 11:31:32 AM
could have sworn when the reservoir was dry for a few years I saw some 7 year old girl in flip flops on top of that pinnacle.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 22, 2014, 01:14:46 PM
could have sworn when the reservoir was dry for a few years I saw some 7 year old girl in flip flops on top of that pinnacle.

If I didn't know better I'd swear you're trying to take the wind out of my mudsails ;)
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: clink on May 22, 2014, 02:21:14 PM
I thoght it was a 90 year old and his walker.
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: mungeclimber on May 22, 2014, 02:26:39 PM
If I didn't know better I'd swear you're trying to take the wind out of my mudsails ;)


buahhaahaha  Mr. Mud strikes AGAIN!
Title: Re: AAC climb-in next weekend
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 22, 2014, 08:52:56 PM
I thought it was a 90 year old and his walker.

We need more routes for the elderly in case we all make it that far!